JMWF

So after much debate, we've decided to delay our trip to Madeira this year and check out the Amalfi Coast in mid-May instead...

We're booked on flights and have a car rented... so now all we have to figure out is what to do, and where to stay...

I read a fodors guidebook on Naples and the Amalfi coast last night and have to admit, it was largely useless... so, here is where I will post my questions I was hoping the book would answer...

We are going to be a group of late 20-something's, but 4 or 6 of us are looking for a 3 - 4 bedroom villa with a swimming pool for a 'reasonable price' - ie: we're not interested in the 13,000E per week spots. does anyone have any recommendations of a great place to stay? we're not interested in Naples and think we would prefer to be close to Amalfi or Positano, but i'd be happy to be convinced otherwise...

info on the following would be great too:

- boat rentals (sail boats, kayak's, etc...)
- hiking (best trails / views / challenges / locations)
- markets (if we're staying at a villa we'd love to do some cooking at home - any great food markets we'd love to hear about...)
- restaurants
- and... last but not least, and information on venue's for live music would be great (we'd love to find a jazz club on the coast where we could sip limoncello in the evenings)

thanks very much,
j.

Palenque

Hiking - one really sweet hike i did was to hike from Amalfi up to Ravello and back down -now the footpath going up does get steep, esp near the end -but it also goes at first thru a bucolic valley full of orchards, fig trees, etc.

That is the main trail up - most direct

I returned to the sea by a different route - a zigzagging trail down thru the vineyards right down to the sea about a hlaf-mile east (?) of Amalfi

Ravello is a great place with great views and well worth the hike.

If you go to Capri or Ischia - easy day trips by boat then those are hikers nirvanas - i walked many miles on nice small roads over both.

smacknmo

Try SummerinItaly.com for a villa. We rented a villa in Praiano and had a good experience with them. Our villa would not accommodate over 4 people comfortably. At least you can start by looking there until other people respond. You will get a lot of opportunity on the AC to hike. I will have to look up the names of restaurants that we liked and get back to you. We got so much exercise when there that it didn't really matter what we ate, we burnt it off!

isabel

Palenque - how long did the hike from Amalfi to Ravello take? Both up and down. Are the paths clearly marked? And how do you find where to start it?

Palenque

As i remember the path in Amalfi was a tad hard to find but was right in town - just ask - once you are on it there is only one path - the one going UP as i recall.

The way down thru the vineyards i just saw the vineyards from Ravello and the paved lanes for workers and hoped they went all the way down and they did - en route workers were tending the vines (harvest time in fall) and it was really neat - shimmering sea in view the whole way.

Buses go up a twisting road but i would not walk on that road as it seemed to have no shoulder and lots of curves, etc. But there is regular bus service to Ravello from Amalfi

bobthenavigator

Start with your rental--that will determine location and what you can do from there. Summerinitaly.com is your best source--it sounds like you may want Positano for night life and boat rentals. Think twice about the car--may be more hassle than good. We will be in Praiano and Naples in May--good time to go. Here is some other advice:

NAVIGATING on the AMALFI COAST
HOW TO GET THERE: You have to want to—it may not be easy. The best option is to land in Naples, but that is not always feasible. Most travelers access it from Rome by train to Naples—a trip of less than two hours. Once in Naples, you have a choice. The local commuter train, Circumversuviana, leaves from the same train station and takes about an hour to SORRENTO, with a possible stop at “ Pompeii Scavi” to see the famed ruins. However, to access any of the coastal towns you must then take a SITA bus or a taxi.

The best option is to hire a private driver to meet you at the Naples station or airport and take you directly to your hotel. Expect to pay about 100E.
www.cuomonet.it www.tourofitaly.com www.francescomarrapese.com

WHERE TO LOCATE & WHAT TO SEE: Ah, what not to see? This is the most stunning scenery in all of Italy---be sure to pack the camera. Your daily activities will be somewhat determined by your location. SORRENTO is really on the Bay of Naples and not the Amalfi Coast [AC], but is the most convenient location for day trips to Pompeii and the Isle of Capri. The town is larger & relatively flat. In contrast, POSITANO is the most spectacular village on the AC but is almost vertical and a real challenge for your legs.
Hotel choices in Positano should be evaluated by their location in town relative to the beach or position on the hill above the beach. AMALFI & RAVELLO are other popular destinations but are further down the coast.

NOTE: Any of the drivers above can be hired for day trip excursions but should be booked well in advance. Expect to pay about 35E/hour.

Here are my top five activities for this fabulous coast:
• Seeing the coast from the water---the best option. Hire a boat and pray for good weather—here is one www.gennaroesalvatore.it

• Day trip to Capri by hydrofoil from Sorrento or Positano—in season

• Day trip to Ravello by local bus or driver. This lovely village is high above the coast with great views---see Villa Cimbrone.

• Day trip to Pompeii. Plan on spending 4 hours to see it well. You can take the commuter train from Sorrento or hire a driver.

• Shopping for ceramics and sipping LIMONCELLO. The latter is not to be missed---I still have it almost daily at home after dinner.


WHERE TO EAT: I hope you like seafood. Here are some of my favorites:
* In Positano: Da Vincenzo Buca di Bacco Da Constantino

* In Ravello: Cumpa Cosimo Villa Maria

* In Sorrento: Trattoria Da Emilia L’Antica Trattoria

kja

> how long did the hike from Amalfi to Ravello take? Both up and down. Are the paths clearly marked? And how do you find where to start it?

I walked from Ravello to Amalfi and agree that it was stunningly beautiful. I had gotten a map from my hotel beforehand. It was easy to find the starting point. There were at least 2 places on the way down where I found it difficult to find the right path. I heard several stories from people who ended up on the wrong path, so when it doubt, ask!

Weekender

Bobthenavigator:

Thank you for your usual superb information. We will be going to Positano in late spring, arriving from Rome via train. Current plan is to hire a car service from train station for transfer to Positano so thanks for your references. Haven't determined best way back to Rome yet although retracing our steps may be the quickest.

isabel

Palenque and kja - thanks for the info. Do you remember about how long it took? Just approximately - like was it an hour or four - less, more?

bobthenavigator

Isabel, Have you seen the trip report by the Go family at onelittleworld.com --click on Campania Good stuff and wonderful images. That is my son and family.

dcd

We were in Positano last May and loved it.

isabel, the walk from Ravello to Amalfi is gorgeous. One of the many highlights of our stay. As I recall, it took us about 2.5 hours. I stopped for lots of pics. Plus, we got lost when we got to Atrani because the signs to Amalfi disappear. We asked some locals a couple of times which was interesting in and of itself.

I wouldn't recommend the walk up unless you're in tremendous shape. Best to take the bus from Amalfi to Ravello and walk down. The starting point from Ravello is just outside the Villa Cimbrone Gardens (don't miss those!). We had to ask a local where the starting point was.

Also, big word to the wise on this or any other hike in the region, up or down. Get your calves in shape. This hike is part path (during the level areas) but mostly well maintained and occasionally steep steps (perhaps 500, give or take a hundred or two). So before leaving, do a stair climber machine or a lot of toe raisers.

We were both in decent shape and aren't overweight. My wife does an eliptical machine for 40 minutes a night. But our calves were barking so much the day after this hike that we couldn't do any more hiking for a couple of days.

JMWF

Hi Everyone,

thanks for the great responses so far - incredibly helpful.

can't wait to try out our endurance on some of the hiking trails.

has anyone come across any live music venues during any of their trips?

thanks,
j.

kja

I believe the walk from Ravello to Amalfi can be completed in about an hour, but add time to stop to admire the amazing views. I took a detour to see something a bit off the trail, and so I took longer than that.

The Ravello Concert series typically has some wonderful performances in a stunning setting. Don't know if that's what you had in mind by a "live music venue", but check it out:

http://www.ravelloarts.org/

isabel

Thanks kja and dcd. I know what you mean about steps - we were in Greece last year and climbed to the top of a fortress that is 999 steps (and it's really more than that, that's just to the entrance) - we were really sore the next day. But it sounds like it might be worth it for Ravello.

bob - I never knew that the Go family was related to you - I should have though since they have such great info. I've followed many of their trips on this site and their own.

aussiedreamer

Woh, this is great. Saving for Aug/sept.
Thanks
AD

lowcountrycarol

bookmarking

dcd

FYI. If anyone would enjoy taking a cooking class in Ravello where you prepare your lunch and then enjoy it on a terrace with killer views, this one gets rave reviews on tripadvisor: http://www.mammaagata.com/cooking-class.aspx. You could then work off the calories with a hike to Amalfi. But it's expensive and getting there from Positano in time for the 10:30am class would be tough. If interested, book way early because it fills up fast and there are maybe 12 spots open per session.