Amalfi Coast and Rome journal
Sep 19th, 2004, 03:22 PM
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Amalfi Coast and Rome journal
We're just back from our trip to Italy. With a tremendous amount of help from people on this board, we had a near flawless maiden European holiday. Hopefully this thread will help others as well. We left August 30th and avoided the truly high season of August in southern Europe. Our Italian also initially consisted of four words and we had little issue.
Day 1: Flight from Boston to Paris and then Paris to Naples. Upon arrival around noon in Naples (with minimal hassle or customs activity), we got into a cab and took the ten minute cab ride that was about 7 Euro to the Beverello docks. We got two tickets for the hydrofoil to Capri that left in forty minutes, 25-30 Euros total. A 40 minute ride later we were in Capri's Marina Grande.
We had reservations in Anacapri at 3 star Hotel Bellavista for 160 Euros/night. Took a 20 Euro cab ride up to the hotel, a must and a thrill in itself going up the cliffside roads around hairpin turns up the mountain to Anacapri. Bellavista was adequate and the woman at the front dersk was very helpful. The view from the "terrace" (really just a floor to ceiling window with a gate) was a sea view if you looked to your left. The restaurant was large but also largely unavailable. If we were to return we would stay at San Michele a few steps down the road for a few Euros more a night and better view and a pool.
Anacapri is wonderful. Much less touristy than Capri. Streetside pizza and gelato stands and not much English being heard, though communication was no problem. We had dinner overlooking Piazza Vittoria at Trattoria Vittoria. Very good food at extremely reasonbable prices. We had a very tasty porcini and sausage pasta dish that was as good as anything we had the whole trip. We both ordered seafood for our main course and regretted not ordering the incredible looking pizzas. Be advised: seafood varies the most from the US as shrimp are not deveined and most seafood is less "prepared". Pizza at the little streetside stand on Via G. Orlandi was incredible.
PORCINI MUSHROOMS SHOULD BE ORDERED WHENEVER POSSIBLE
Day 2: We made the two minute walk to Piazza Vittoria in Anacapri and caught the orange bus to Grotto Azzurra (Blue Grotto). Good move; it was 1,30 Euro each each way and about 10 a ten minute ride. Something to remember about the Blue Grotto is each boat will charge you. Typically if you leave from Marina Grande you use at least two boats. Going via land you only need one boat at 10 Euro/person. The Blue Grotto is unmistakably a tourist trap but interesting nonetheless.
We then took the bus back to Anacapri and then got on another bus to Capri. All the buses are 1,30 Euro and can be crowded. They run often so you can wait for an uncrowded one or commute at off times. Five minutes later we were in Capri. Congested but very nice. After you pass through the Piazzetta, bear right and you'll pass as much high end shopping as anyone could endure. We went left for lunch at Hotel Belsito. We initially had reservations to stay there but posters on this board thankfully steered us elsewhere. The restaurant was very good for lunch but it looked like a tough place to stay. The view from the rooftop terrace restaurant was unbeliveable. We then took the bus back to Anacapri/Bellavista and took a dip in Hotel San Michele's pool for 10 Euro each; an arrangement Bellavista has with the hotel.
That night we took a 10 Euro cab ride into Capri and ate at LA Colombaia in the Hotel Quisisana. The hotel was first class all the way, the nicest in Capri. Initially, the American level of air conditioning in the lobby foreshadowed a remarkably pampered dinner. We had wonderfully executed filet mignon and swordfish for dinner served by a most responsive staff. We reluctantly returned via cab to Bellavista at the end of the night with a nightcap stop at the cave-like bar at Hotel San Michele.
Day 3: We arranged for a cab to pick us up and take us to Marina Grande an hour early. In early September it was no issue getting ferry tickets to Positano. The woman at Bellavista's front desk gave us a ferry schedule and the fare was about 13 Euro each. Another forty minutes later (great pictures leaving Capri) we were docking at the makeshift pier in Positano. Spend the 5 Euro on the porters for your baggage as everything is uphill.
We met the lovely and gracious Valia at the reception desk at Villa Rosa (140 Euro/night). She informed us of a plumbing issue in our reserved room so we received an unexpected upgrade to the suite Room 39. King size bed, three twin beds, small but nice bathroom and a huge private terrace overlooking all of Positano and the water. I can't say enough about the terrace, though all rooms had private terraces. We would stop on the way home from the beach or day trips at the small deli down the street and spend 3 Euro on Parmesan Reggiano and 6 Euro on Pinot Grigio and be in heaven for the evening. Also the sun would duck behind the hill around 6 PM and the temp would drop about 15 degrees but there was sunlight until about 7:30-8. Like I said, heaven.
This first night we had dinner at Pizzeria Valle Dei Mul (sp?) in the valley at the bend in the road. Not bad, but not great.
Day 4: Woke up around 8 am and were treated breakfast (cappucino and pastries) on our terrace. We then decided to go to Ravello. We walked up the road about 200 yards and caught the SITA bus that runs every 15 minutes. It was 1,30 each and about 30 minutes to Amalfi. The road lived up to its reputation of being narrow and winding, and several times we had to stop and back up to allow cars to pass. Once we arrived in Amalfi we had to catch another 15 minute/1,30 bus up the hill to Ravello.
Ravello was a highlight. We walked around town admiring the spectacular views. We passed on Villa Ruffalo but strolled around the gardens of Villa Cimbrone. We ate lunch at Villa Maria overlooking the valley. It was the best lunch of the trip. The tomato salad was tremendous.
We took a cab back to Amalfi for 22 Euro and the ferry back to Positano for 5 Euro each. The bus was an experience but ferries are a much more relaxing and pleasurable means of transportation. After wine and cheese on the terrace we went to the beach and tried to eat at Buca di Baco but could not get a table. We went next door to La Cambusa and loved the vino, gnocci and veal for 73 USD.
Day 5: We made one of our few mistakes the next morning. We took the 10 am ferry to Torre Annzunuda to get to Pompei, figuring we could take a cab the 2 km to Pompei. "Torre A-Pompei" is analogous to Bridgeport, CT, Jersey City, or Bogota; it is third world style industrial slum. Use another route to get to Pompei. Pompei itself was interesting and well worth seeing but quite sprawling. Two hours in we were ready to go. There was no shade and things get a bit repetitive. We took the train from Pompei to Sorrento and a ferry from Sorrento to Positano. Schedules are available at the docks. It was 40 minutes from Pompei to Sorrento and 30 minutes from Sorrento to Positano. If we did it again, we would spend a night in Sorrento. It seemed to be a larger town with a good nightlife.
After another happy hour on the terrace at Villa Rosa we decided to have a drink at the famed Le Sirenuse just below us. An awful experience. The drinks were 14 Euro each, you were cramped, service was pretentious, and everyone appeared to be there simply to be seen. We hoped to relax in luxurious surroundings and ended up feeling like unwanted sardines.
We adjourned for dinner at Ristorante Vincenzo on the hill opposite Villa Rosa. It was extremely tasty, reasonable, and the service was quite attentive. Highly recommended. We caught a nightcap (a few of them) at the bar at Hotel Posiedon. It was everything we hoped Sirenuse to be. Spacious, wonderful service, and great views. Again, highly reccomended.
Day 6: The endless nightcap did my better half for the next morning. We slept in and decided to spend the afternoon at the beach. We grabbed a sandwich down at the beach and then paid the 10 Euro each to go to Spiaggia beach in Positano. We were there several hours and the 10 Euro gets you a chair with a shade; bring your flip flops as the beach is quite rocky.
We went to the "M Bar" at the beach for internet access to get train schedules from Salerno to Rome. There are numerous "Internet Points" in Italy and typically 1 or 2 Euro gets you 10-30 minutes. That night we ate at Chez Black on the beach. Quite good..
Day 7: We had the porters pick up our bags and went to the dock bound for Salerno. We took somewhat biased advice as to what ferry to take to Salerno (trust your instincts). Also MAKE ADVANCE RESERVATIONS FOR TRAINS.
We just barely made the train connection in Salerno (two docks about 3 km apart) but had to stand the 2.5 hours to Rome due to not getting advance tickets. We arrived in Rome at Termini and took a 10 Euro cab to Relais Banchi Vecchi (130 Euros/night). Seemed like a good deal and was equidistant from Piazza Navona and the Vatican. BE SURE TO CONFIRM YOUR ARRIVAL TIME OR NO ONE WILL BE THERE.
We ate lunch at a tourist trap in Piazza Navona. Rome was much smaller than expected. We walked around town that night and saw the Pantheon, Spanish Steps, and Trevi Fountain. We ate a mom-and-pop place near the Pantheon that was surprisingly good.
Day 8: We woke up and headed straight for the Vatican. We got there early enough to avoid long lines. Remember to wear shirt sleeves and pants. We then hit the Coloseum, Forum, Spanish Steps (again), and Trevi Fountain (again). We broke our procouitto streak by getting a burger at Trinity College Irish pub, good. After some more sightseeing we ate dinner at Vecchia Locanda down an alley just south of the Pantheon. BEST MEAL WE HAD ALL TRIP. The vegetable-porcini ravioli was the best dish of the holiday. Fun nightcap on the way home. Rome is very laid back and quite social.
Day 9: We had no agenda for this day. We did some shopping. We got an unremarkable lunch near Piazza Navona. Then we walked to Via Veneto and through Villa Bolognese. After a shower at the hotel we went to Vecchia Locanda again, not quite as good as the first night.
Day 10: We arranged a cab to pick us up for the 45 minute ride out to Da Vinci airport. Take a cab, it is a ways out there. It cost us 50 Euro. Da Vinci airport was much more secure than Naples. We flew from Rome to London and London to Boston. Due to the exchange rate of the pound, avoid spending money in Heathrow or anywhere in London.
All in all, a great trip. Positano (Villa Rosa!) was the best and Capri was nice as well. Rome good to see but far less relaxing than the coast.
Best of luck to you if you choose a similar vacation. Hopefully this helps.
Day 1: Flight from Boston to Paris and then Paris to Naples. Upon arrival around noon in Naples (with minimal hassle or customs activity), we got into a cab and took the ten minute cab ride that was about 7 Euro to the Beverello docks. We got two tickets for the hydrofoil to Capri that left in forty minutes, 25-30 Euros total. A 40 minute ride later we were in Capri's Marina Grande.
We had reservations in Anacapri at 3 star Hotel Bellavista for 160 Euros/night. Took a 20 Euro cab ride up to the hotel, a must and a thrill in itself going up the cliffside roads around hairpin turns up the mountain to Anacapri. Bellavista was adequate and the woman at the front dersk was very helpful. The view from the "terrace" (really just a floor to ceiling window with a gate) was a sea view if you looked to your left. The restaurant was large but also largely unavailable. If we were to return we would stay at San Michele a few steps down the road for a few Euros more a night and better view and a pool.
Anacapri is wonderful. Much less touristy than Capri. Streetside pizza and gelato stands and not much English being heard, though communication was no problem. We had dinner overlooking Piazza Vittoria at Trattoria Vittoria. Very good food at extremely reasonbable prices. We had a very tasty porcini and sausage pasta dish that was as good as anything we had the whole trip. We both ordered seafood for our main course and regretted not ordering the incredible looking pizzas. Be advised: seafood varies the most from the US as shrimp are not deveined and most seafood is less "prepared". Pizza at the little streetside stand on Via G. Orlandi was incredible.
PORCINI MUSHROOMS SHOULD BE ORDERED WHENEVER POSSIBLE
Day 2: We made the two minute walk to Piazza Vittoria in Anacapri and caught the orange bus to Grotto Azzurra (Blue Grotto). Good move; it was 1,30 Euro each each way and about 10 a ten minute ride. Something to remember about the Blue Grotto is each boat will charge you. Typically if you leave from Marina Grande you use at least two boats. Going via land you only need one boat at 10 Euro/person. The Blue Grotto is unmistakably a tourist trap but interesting nonetheless.
We then took the bus back to Anacapri and then got on another bus to Capri. All the buses are 1,30 Euro and can be crowded. They run often so you can wait for an uncrowded one or commute at off times. Five minutes later we were in Capri. Congested but very nice. After you pass through the Piazzetta, bear right and you'll pass as much high end shopping as anyone could endure. We went left for lunch at Hotel Belsito. We initially had reservations to stay there but posters on this board thankfully steered us elsewhere. The restaurant was very good for lunch but it looked like a tough place to stay. The view from the rooftop terrace restaurant was unbeliveable. We then took the bus back to Anacapri/Bellavista and took a dip in Hotel San Michele's pool for 10 Euro each; an arrangement Bellavista has with the hotel.
That night we took a 10 Euro cab ride into Capri and ate at LA Colombaia in the Hotel Quisisana. The hotel was first class all the way, the nicest in Capri. Initially, the American level of air conditioning in the lobby foreshadowed a remarkably pampered dinner. We had wonderfully executed filet mignon and swordfish for dinner served by a most responsive staff. We reluctantly returned via cab to Bellavista at the end of the night with a nightcap stop at the cave-like bar at Hotel San Michele.
Day 3: We arranged for a cab to pick us up and take us to Marina Grande an hour early. In early September it was no issue getting ferry tickets to Positano. The woman at Bellavista's front desk gave us a ferry schedule and the fare was about 13 Euro each. Another forty minutes later (great pictures leaving Capri) we were docking at the makeshift pier in Positano. Spend the 5 Euro on the porters for your baggage as everything is uphill.
We met the lovely and gracious Valia at the reception desk at Villa Rosa (140 Euro/night). She informed us of a plumbing issue in our reserved room so we received an unexpected upgrade to the suite Room 39. King size bed, three twin beds, small but nice bathroom and a huge private terrace overlooking all of Positano and the water. I can't say enough about the terrace, though all rooms had private terraces. We would stop on the way home from the beach or day trips at the small deli down the street and spend 3 Euro on Parmesan Reggiano and 6 Euro on Pinot Grigio and be in heaven for the evening. Also the sun would duck behind the hill around 6 PM and the temp would drop about 15 degrees but there was sunlight until about 7:30-8. Like I said, heaven.
This first night we had dinner at Pizzeria Valle Dei Mul (sp?) in the valley at the bend in the road. Not bad, but not great.
Day 4: Woke up around 8 am and were treated breakfast (cappucino and pastries) on our terrace. We then decided to go to Ravello. We walked up the road about 200 yards and caught the SITA bus that runs every 15 minutes. It was 1,30 each and about 30 minutes to Amalfi. The road lived up to its reputation of being narrow and winding, and several times we had to stop and back up to allow cars to pass. Once we arrived in Amalfi we had to catch another 15 minute/1,30 bus up the hill to Ravello.
Ravello was a highlight. We walked around town admiring the spectacular views. We passed on Villa Ruffalo but strolled around the gardens of Villa Cimbrone. We ate lunch at Villa Maria overlooking the valley. It was the best lunch of the trip. The tomato salad was tremendous.
We took a cab back to Amalfi for 22 Euro and the ferry back to Positano for 5 Euro each. The bus was an experience but ferries are a much more relaxing and pleasurable means of transportation. After wine and cheese on the terrace we went to the beach and tried to eat at Buca di Baco but could not get a table. We went next door to La Cambusa and loved the vino, gnocci and veal for 73 USD.
Day 5: We made one of our few mistakes the next morning. We took the 10 am ferry to Torre Annzunuda to get to Pompei, figuring we could take a cab the 2 km to Pompei. "Torre A-Pompei" is analogous to Bridgeport, CT, Jersey City, or Bogota; it is third world style industrial slum. Use another route to get to Pompei. Pompei itself was interesting and well worth seeing but quite sprawling. Two hours in we were ready to go. There was no shade and things get a bit repetitive. We took the train from Pompei to Sorrento and a ferry from Sorrento to Positano. Schedules are available at the docks. It was 40 minutes from Pompei to Sorrento and 30 minutes from Sorrento to Positano. If we did it again, we would spend a night in Sorrento. It seemed to be a larger town with a good nightlife.
After another happy hour on the terrace at Villa Rosa we decided to have a drink at the famed Le Sirenuse just below us. An awful experience. The drinks were 14 Euro each, you were cramped, service was pretentious, and everyone appeared to be there simply to be seen. We hoped to relax in luxurious surroundings and ended up feeling like unwanted sardines.
We adjourned for dinner at Ristorante Vincenzo on the hill opposite Villa Rosa. It was extremely tasty, reasonable, and the service was quite attentive. Highly recommended. We caught a nightcap (a few of them) at the bar at Hotel Posiedon. It was everything we hoped Sirenuse to be. Spacious, wonderful service, and great views. Again, highly reccomended.
Day 6: The endless nightcap did my better half for the next morning. We slept in and decided to spend the afternoon at the beach. We grabbed a sandwich down at the beach and then paid the 10 Euro each to go to Spiaggia beach in Positano. We were there several hours and the 10 Euro gets you a chair with a shade; bring your flip flops as the beach is quite rocky.
We went to the "M Bar" at the beach for internet access to get train schedules from Salerno to Rome. There are numerous "Internet Points" in Italy and typically 1 or 2 Euro gets you 10-30 minutes. That night we ate at Chez Black on the beach. Quite good..
Day 7: We had the porters pick up our bags and went to the dock bound for Salerno. We took somewhat biased advice as to what ferry to take to Salerno (trust your instincts). Also MAKE ADVANCE RESERVATIONS FOR TRAINS.
We just barely made the train connection in Salerno (two docks about 3 km apart) but had to stand the 2.5 hours to Rome due to not getting advance tickets. We arrived in Rome at Termini and took a 10 Euro cab to Relais Banchi Vecchi (130 Euros/night). Seemed like a good deal and was equidistant from Piazza Navona and the Vatican. BE SURE TO CONFIRM YOUR ARRIVAL TIME OR NO ONE WILL BE THERE.
We ate lunch at a tourist trap in Piazza Navona. Rome was much smaller than expected. We walked around town that night and saw the Pantheon, Spanish Steps, and Trevi Fountain. We ate a mom-and-pop place near the Pantheon that was surprisingly good.
Day 8: We woke up and headed straight for the Vatican. We got there early enough to avoid long lines. Remember to wear shirt sleeves and pants. We then hit the Coloseum, Forum, Spanish Steps (again), and Trevi Fountain (again). We broke our procouitto streak by getting a burger at Trinity College Irish pub, good. After some more sightseeing we ate dinner at Vecchia Locanda down an alley just south of the Pantheon. BEST MEAL WE HAD ALL TRIP. The vegetable-porcini ravioli was the best dish of the holiday. Fun nightcap on the way home. Rome is very laid back and quite social.
Day 9: We had no agenda for this day. We did some shopping. We got an unremarkable lunch near Piazza Navona. Then we walked to Via Veneto and through Villa Bolognese. After a shower at the hotel we went to Vecchia Locanda again, not quite as good as the first night.
Day 10: We arranged a cab to pick us up for the 45 minute ride out to Da Vinci airport. Take a cab, it is a ways out there. It cost us 50 Euro. Da Vinci airport was much more secure than Naples. We flew from Rome to London and London to Boston. Due to the exchange rate of the pound, avoid spending money in Heathrow or anywhere in London.
All in all, a great trip. Positano (Villa Rosa!) was the best and Capri was nice as well. Rome good to see but far less relaxing than the coast.
Best of luck to you if you choose a similar vacation. Hopefully this helps.
Sep 19th, 2004, 06:53 PM
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Ira- Hearing from you is an honor of sorts. We based so much of our vacation on your advice, thank you for the kind words. We were tempted to go to the pizzeria in Priano as well as the hotel. Going by Priano on the ferry, it will be a destination the next time we travel to the Amalfi Coast (fingers crossed). Thank you again for your tips throughout.
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Sep 24th, 2002 09:52 AM
