hi Beth,
I e-mailed a friend who did a similar itinerary last year. When I get the info I'll relate it to you.
She is going to Albania again ( tomorrow) so it may be a while before she replies.

thanks, danon! Ket me know what she says.

Beth

hi beth, here is may friends reply:Re: Albania trip

Rule #1 --- NEVER drive there. It is not safe. They do not obey traffic signals.. Look 3 times before you cross the street. They drive on the sidewalks... be very careful! You can probably get a good driver at one of the better hotels. eg. Rogner, Tirana International...( I did not like the Sheraton... terrible service and attitude.)

Diplomat is just fine.... but a good 20 minute walk from the Skanderbeg Square (centre of Tirana). Hotel Mondial is about the same distance... very nice.... rather Italian in design and service and food. Both are around $80-130.-- USD per night.

My favourite hotel is a little hotel called The Grand, which is located right in the Bllok area.... right in the centre of the city, 2 blocks from the Rogner. Rogner has great lunch and indoor cafe, and tables by the pool. Rooms are outrageous.... about $220.00 - 300.00 USD. The Grand is about $150.00 USD Prices have really gone up in the past 2 years. There is a tiny local restaurant on the same street, New Era... you can have a great lunch or dinner for about $12.00. Breakfast is included in the hotels.

I wouldn't take a bus to Korca. The ride is about 4-5 hours,if the person has all 4 wheels on the ground. The curves in the mountains can be treacherous if you don't have a very good driver. Do a test run around the city. Driving in Macedonia is certainly easier and the terrain is also. No comparison.

The Regency in Korca is the 'big' hotel... about $100.00 per night. Ask relatives to get you a better rate. There is another place next door, but it is run down..bed bugs, too!. Take both plug and voltage adapters with you in both areas. Bring Tylenol... they don't have it.

Korca has changed a lot in the past few years.... so many people have left for Tirana in search of work. So sad.... it really used to be a special place. It is still enjoyable.. but now not a lot to do. Pogradec is 40 minutes away. Breath taking! right on Lake Ohrid. Go to Shen Naumi.... (Saint Naumi)... great little hotel right on the water... wonderful traditional food and special fish! About $40.00 per night. I stayed there and had the driver go in to Korca.

The driver is about $120.00 round trip to Korca and I always pay for their gas and food. Lodging too if they don't have friends or relatives there to stay with.

Go to the website, "In your pocket"..... and also pick up a copy at the Adrion bookstore right in Skanderbeg square. Tells you everything you need to know! While in Tirana, you should visit Kruje... and have lunch at the famous castle and walk the cobblestone roads where Albania has defended itself against the centuries of invasions. Great souvenir shops."


Hope it helps!

ttt

danon -

fabulous information - thank you so much. The recommendations are invaluable and give me some good perspective as I begin to make plans. Give your friend my most sincere thanks

Beth

beth, glad to help. have a good trip.

Beth, I'm late getting into this thread, but I can attest to the driving skills (or lack of same)of Albanians. We rented a car last spring and drive through Croatia, Montenegro, Albania, Macedonia and Kosovo.

By far the worst drivers were the Albanians. No road rules, they go 100 mph and pass whenever they want. The other drivers just make three lanes out of two. Cars (mainly black market Mercedes) share the roads with donkey and horse carts. There were many crosses alongside the roads which didn't surprise me.

The roads were terrible, especially in the northern part of the country. Manholes not covered, some had no tarmac. The worst, though, was when we drove from Berat to Tirana. On the map, it appeared that there was a straight main road from Elbason to Tirana. Lo and behold it was a switchback mountain road with no guardrails. Busses and cars coming around the turns at high speeds. By the time we realized it, we were committed and I was a basket case.

I would agree that a driver is definitely your best choice.

Having said that, Albania was an adventure that I wouldn't have missed for anything. I wasn't prepared for how third world it is, though, especially arriving directly from Dubrovnik which is drop dead gorgeous. Despite the language barrier, Albanians were among the most friendly people we encountered throughout the Balkans.

I hope you'll post a trip report when you return; I'd love to hear your impressions. It's a beautiful country with a lot of catching-up to do.

Have a wonderful trip!

Hi Beth

I am an Aussie living in Tirana. I have lived in the UK for 6 years before too. I've been travelling around Albania a lot over the past 2 years.
At first I was afraid to drive, but Ive hired a car a few times, and now Ive got the hang of it. I havent driven to Korce yet, but I will soon. So far I have driven from Tirana to Saranda, both via Vlora and via Gjirokastra. I've also driven to Elbasan. The roads have improved a lot over 2 years and the government are spending more and more on fixing roads.
Of course, if you can afford a private driver, this would be the best option, otherwise renting a car should be ok.

There are many choices for hotels in Tirana now. The Diplomat is quite nice. I would stay in the Grand Hotel as well (depending on budget).

If you need to know anything else, just let me know.

Best Wishes
Fiona

Korce is beautiful, but I´d take a bus. trains are grim, and driving through Albania if you´re not born to it can be very hazardous to your health.
Buses are cheap and they go everywhere!
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