frenchaucoeur

We’ll be returning to Aix for a two-week stay in June, and I’m hoping Fodorites can suggest some new places to visit to augment the old stand-bys. We’ve been to Aix many times and love it, so we’re making it our base, and we’ll have a car.

Over a number of trips to Provence we’ve seen the gold-star places in the vicinity and are now interested in maybe some less well known ones. The short list: Arles, Avignon, St. Remy, Eygalieres, Les Baux, le Pont du Gard, Uzes, Cassis, Sanary, Bandol, Le Castellet. We’ve stayed several times in Sablet, near Vaison, and also in the Luberon and know both area quite well, as well as the Drome (too long a drive for this trip in any case), We’ve also spent a fair amount of time in the Var, based in Cotignac, and in the Verdon area. I’m sure I’m forgetting some places.

We plan day trips to the Luberon and to the Dentelles villages and are also hoping to visit the Camargue (altho Aigues Morts seems a bit far), and we'd like to revisit some other old favorites, like Cassis. We’d like to keep the driving time to around an hour. Any ideas? Thought of the Chauvet cave, but it's at least a two-hour drive.

We enjoy most just being flaneurs, wandering around admiring windows and doorways and spending time in cafes soaking it all in.

Thanks for your ideas.

geetika

We loved Arles, St Remy and the Pont du Gard, though I'm not too hot on Avignon, despite its historical significance. We were in Provence last May and spent a day in Cassis, our lunch at a small restaurant by the dock was the highlight of the trip. We downed several carafes of the local wine and chatted with the owner, an exceedingly friendly lady. We later found that she'd offered us a carafe, very nice of her indeed since it was unlikely we'd be repeat customers!

The Bandol region has some good wineries, you might want to do a tour and taste the local wines.

We liked the Camargue too, though I agree it might be rather farther than you want to drive from Provence.

Enjoy your trip, wish I could be going too!

Christina

I am sure I understand your question. You want to know where to visit by car for a day trip from Aix? And the short list you name are places you've already been or places you are considering, which one? I presume considering. I am a little confused as to why you say you plan to visit the Dentelles but that the Drome is too far and that you want places within an hour, as the Dentelles are farther than an hour from Aix and almost to the Drome. Even places in the Luberon are farther than an hour's drive (such as Gordes).

I'd suggest Manosque, it's less than an hour, and Forcalquier is about an hour.

Apt is a nice town and has a great market, and it's a bit over an hour, but about the same time you would plan for the Luberon (to get there). And of course there is Lourmarin, which is within an hour, you should visit there. You could also visit la Roque d'Antheron on your side of the river, with the abbaye de Silvacane near it, if you haven't.
http://www.provenceweb.fr/e/bouches/...t/roqueant.htm

frenchaucoeur

Sorry for the confusion. Yes, the list is places we've been, entre autres. I realize the Dentelles villages are over an hour from Aix, but we love the area and are happy to do the drive. I think it would be significantly further to get to Grignan, Nyons, Le Poet-Laval, and places like that in the Drome.

We spent a day this year on a revisit to Saignon, Bonnieux (where we stayed some years ago), and Lourmarin and found the drive very easy and beautiful. I don't particularly care to visit Gordes again--not my favorite place.

Manosque and Forcalquier are interesting possiblities. Ditto La Roque d'Antheron and Silvacane. I'll look into them. Thanks for the suggestions.

StuDudley

How about the lavender fields on the Valensole plateau??? In conjunction with a trip to Manosque & Forcalquir. Lavender should be in bloom in June - since this is Lavendin which blooms earlier than normal Lavender. Also the Rochers de Mees.

This is from my Provence & Cote d'Azur itinerary - which I believe I have sent to you.

Day trips from Aix-en-Provence
Valensole Plateau, Lavender & Poppy fields, Riez, & Moustiers allow a full day
This excursion can be a day trip from either Aix-en-Provence or from the Luberon. The highlights of a drive through the Valensole plateau are the lovely lavender and poppy fields. We drove this route one year on June 14 when both the lavender & poppies were in full bloom, and again on June 24 in '14 - but the poppies were gone. I would only recommend this trip if you are visiting during the lavender season (mid-June through July).

Leave Aix north on the A51 and get off at exit # 19 – just east of Forcalquier. If you are departing from the Luberon near Apt, go east along the D900 which becomes the D4100 as you travel into the Haute-Provence Dept. (it's the same physical road). Continue on the D4100 to Forcalquier. However, if you are doing this visit on a Monday - you will have great difficulty driving through Forcalquir - it's their market day and one of the largest in Provence. We actually visited Forcalquir on Monday for the market, and drove through it another day to get to the lavender fields.

Forcalquier* is a very interesting town to explore. My wife's very favorite home decorating store in Provence is here - called La Terraio. There are two locations - one on Rue Plauchud near the Fontaine Renaissance, and another smaller shop just around the corner on Rue Merciere. Even if you don't want/"need" to shop, this store with its maze of "rooms" is captivating. The perched village of Lurs* (just north of Forcalquier off the D12) is another very cute hilltop village worth exploring.

From the #19 exit off the A51, take the D4B through Oraison and then the D4, and then the D15 towards Valensole. About 1/3 of the way on the D15 to Valensole, there is a fantastic view - look for the view icon on your 334 map. Most of the D15 up to this point and a few Ks past the "view" consists of forest & not that scenic. About 3/4 of the way to Valensole on the D15 - be prepared. In '14 there was one of the most spectacular lavender field we've ever seen. There was a human traffic jam out here in the middle of nowhere - people taking pictures of the field and the cars parked every which-way. This field is best viewed in the morning. This field and for the next hour of driving, you are going to see the best lavender fields we saw in Provence in '14.

Continue on the D15 towards Valensole. Just before you get to Valensole, you'll encounter a right turn on the D15 - directing you to the town of Valensole. Don't turn right towards Valensole. Instead go straight - look for the small sign directing you to Digne. You'll immediately drive past another wonderful lavender field. This Valensole "bypass" is parallel to the D8 going northeast, and will shortly connect with the D8. Along the D8 heading northeast there are more & more & more & more spectacular lavender fields. Soon you'll hit the D953 and turn right/south towards Riez - and more lavender fields.

Stop & visit Riez*, which has a wonderful Saturday AM market. As I have stated before, it took me about 15 years to realize that it’s never smart to visit or even drive through a town on a Sunday, Monday, or during the lunch closing (12:30 to 3:00 or so), because the town will be all “shuttered-up” with those ugly aluminum shutters & the town will look like it’s preparing for an invasion. We drove through Riez on a Sunday in ’99 & the town had no appeal at all. When we were there in June ’03 on a Saturday, the market was going strong, people were having coffee at the cafés under the plane trees, and the shops with their attractive window displays were open – quite a contrast from our prior (’99) Sunday visit. Explore Riez – see the Green Guide for a map (if you’re visiting during the Sat market, you can park in the large lot along Ave Fr. Mistral, just before you cross the river). Walk east along Allee Gardio to Place de la Colonne (where the fountain is located), and then turn left (west) & try to find City Hall (Hotel de Ville) in a lovely courtyard – poke your nose inside the Hotel de Ville a bit. Continue west along the narrow R Basse, which has some outdoor restaurants. When you hit the Church, curve right & go east on Grand Rue – which parallels R Basse. There are a lot of medieval mansions than have been turned into residences along this street. In '03 there were a lot of renovations going on. When we returned in '14 - there were still lots of renovations - and the town didn't seem to have "progressed" much since our '03 visit. Aside from the commercial streets, things seemed a bit desolate.

Head east on the D952 to Moustiers** and get the cameras ready. In the afternoon sun, the view of Moustiers from the west is spectacular. Explore Moustiers – it’s not only a very cute village, but it’s one of the most famous faience (pottery) centers in France. My wife enjoyed the Musee de la Faience (I waited outside), and we also climbed up to the church. Wander around town & enjoy the shops, but beware of the lunch closings.

After Moustiers, retrace your route on the D952 to Riez, and then on to Greoux les Bains.

If you are returning to Aix, get on the A51 heading south. If you are returning to the Luberon, drive through Manosque (somewhat difficult navigating, and there is lots of very ugly commerce to drive past).

If you enjoy very unusual rock formations and have 30 minutes to spare, visit Rochers (rocks) des Mees*. Take the A51 to exit # 20 and get on the D4096 north towards Chateau Arnoux, where you will get on the N85 going southeast toward Digne. You should get some pretty good views of the rocks – they are quite interesting. Return by going back to Les Mees on the D4 (more views of the rocks) & pick up the A51 to Aix, or the D4096 to the D4100 for a return to the Luberon.

Stu Dudley

frenchaucoeur

Thanks, Stu. We spent almost two weeks in Cotignac this past June after almost a week in Aix, and as part of that trip we did go up to the Valensole late in the month. The lavender wasn't quite in full bloom, but it was close enough for us to have a wonderful day driving around. And your itinerary was quite helpful as we planned our route. We combined the Valensole with Moustiers, and it was a truly memorable day.

We'll be in Aix at the beginning of the month, and are heading to Paris on the 17th, so a bit early for lavender this time. Alas!

zoecat

I found this gallery, boutique and cafe very interesting and a worthwhile change of pace place to visit. It is located in the outskirts of Apt.

http://www.provenceguide.co.uk/cultu...0000529-1.html

michelhuebeli

Having been to the South of France, you may already know about the Courses Camarguaises?

If not - make sure you catch one, preferaby in a smaller town where the family atmosphere is more prevalent and it doesn’t feel like it’s put on for tourists. They’re usually held on Sunday afternoons.

It’s the bloodless French version of “bullfight” - no fight, THE BULL ALWAYS WINS.

A rosetta is glued between the bull’s horns, and same foolhardy chaps try to grab it, to win a prize, while leaping for their lives when the bull pursues them.

But it’s the bull that gets the biggest round of applause.

See www.youtube.com/watch?v=aDLd1rRqcUk

KathyWood

We live part-time in Bonnieux and enjoy discovering lesser-known places too. You've been given several good suggestions.

Have you visited Chateau La Coste? It's a winery but also known for really incredible sculptures on the property. Not far from Aix either.

You could also visit the Chateau at Ansouis for one of the private tours given by the owner. The chateau is fascinating! The tours are in French, but I'd go even if you don't understand French fluently.

This would be a longer day trip (about 1 hour 30 minutes), but we love the area around Viens and Simiane-la-Rotonde. You could take the route from Aix through Pertuis to Grambois, then Cereste, to see a much-less-touristed area of the Grand Luberon. On the north side of the mountain, you could visit the gorges at Oppedette. And the garden at Valsaintes-- very isolated-- would be lovely in June. They are known for roses.

Do you have the book Provence Byways, by Bob and Sue Winn? You can buy it for download for $10. This would be a great resource for you. www.provencebyways.com

Kathy

Coquelicot

We like architecture, bridges, iron age or Roman vestiges, as well as oddball stuff, and we find great suggestions in Monumentum.fr. This website is an attempt to pinpoint the location of each entry on France's Base Merimee, the official list of historic monuments.

It's not just churches and chateaux. On this website we found a cafe with beautiful ceramic tiles that we haven't seen mentioned anywhere else, even in the town's tourist website or literature which I think ought to be bragging about it.

In a village of no other interest that I could see, Monumentum listed an oppidum. Since we were driving by, we needed to see this. We found a high earthen rampart, all that is left of an iron age fort mentioned by Julius Caesar.

frenchaucoeur

Thanks to all. Coquelicot, that is a fabulous website, one I'd never stumbled across. I expect I'll be spending a lot of time on it over the next couple of months and as we plan future trips.

Interesting that you brought up Simiane, Kathy. I had wanted to go there in June but we didn't make it. Maybe this time, esp. since you've provided a new route for us to follow. I really don't know the Luberon east of Saignon and west of the Var very well, and I'd love to make at least a day of it and explore.

We've never visited the chateau at Ansouis, either. I'd be fine on the tour, since my French is quite good, altho I'd have to translate for my husband. Do they have crib sheets for English-only visitors so that I wouldn't annoy everyone else on the tour by translating?

I'm beginning to think we'll need to add on some more time for this trip. If only we could!

frenchaucoeur

Kathy--Just looking at Via Michelin, and I have a routing question for you. To get from Grambois to Cereste, there are two possible routes. The longer one goes to the northeast through La Bastide des Jourdans on a yellow route and then heads west to Cereste along the D4100. The other one, a white road, is more direct and goes through the Col de l'Aire de Masco. Is there a reason--treacherous driving, perhaps--to avoid the more direct route ? I assume the yellow road is an easier drive, yes?

Hope you see this!

Christina

D4100 doesn't head west from Bastide des Jourdans to Cereste. D4100 is a lot farther north and you'd have to travel a lot farther to the NE to get it, all the way to Les Granons. You'd have to go all the way up D956 through the mountains to get there.

I've been to Cereste and it isn't difficult driving around there, but I admit I haven't come from Grambois. The distance using the D956 rather than D33 and D31 isn't too terribly different (27 vs 20 km) and in fact, if you look at the Michelin routings, each route as about the exact same number of km that are marked caution or hazardous (the series of bends - both have 12 km). BOth mountains are about the same grade and height. I imagine it is because the D956 is a wider and bigger road than D33 and D31 which can be pretty narrow and only two lanes, if that (one each way, not even sure there is a middle lane divider), so if going around a curve and you can't see, could be dicey and you may be closer to the edge of the dropoff.

That's my guess, I've driven on some of those roads and they are a bit too scary for my taste as you don't know what cars coming towards you may be doing if you can't see them.

That chateau (Ansouis) is privately owned, the owners don't go out of their way to do special things for all nationalities, no, there is no translation to other languages. The owner doesn't speak English. I do not know how that would go for you to be translating aloud to your husband during the tour, if that would be annoying to others or allowed or not. Perhaps, I read she can arrange an interpreter if you ask in advance. He could just read up on it on his own, with some documents, and just go along for the visuals and take it for what it is, I suppose. You could ask if that would be allowed for you to do that.

frenchaucoeur

Christina, as I see it, the Via Michelin map does seem to show the D4100 coming into Cereste (and becoming the D900 heading west toward Apt). But your answer confirmed my suspicions, anyway, and we'll take the D956 to Les Granons and then head west, avoiding a few more gray hairs, rather than take the narrower D 31 and D33. We've driven our share of narrow roads in France, but wider is always easier.

Thanks also for the information about Ansouis. I'll have to look into it a bit more.

KathyWood

frenchaucoeur, I haven't done that drive over the Grand Luberon to Cereste for several years. I like the small narrow roads, but then we drive in the area all the time and are much more used to it. You should do what you're comfortable with.



My husband and I have been leading small group tours in the Luberon for 12 years. We take some of our groups to the Chateau d'Ansouis for a private tour with the owner, who I like very much. This is their private home and they have done a beautiful job in the decoration of the place as it was totally empty when the previous owners left. We asked her to arrange an interpreter a few times for our groups and I did the interpretation the last time, just this past September. Madame does speak a little English, but not enough to do a tour. I don't know if there's a sheet in English to follow along with or not. But the chateau is absolutely fascinating (there are really three castles in one), really interesting antiques and decoration, and beautiful views. But maybe it's not for you...

Near Cereste there is a site that may interest you, the remains of the

KathyWood

Sorry, I wasn't finished with my previous post!

Near Cereste there is a site that may interest you, the remains of the Prieuré de Carluc, which was near the Via Domitia (roman road) and I believe also on the route of the Compostella. This was a medieval religious center, now in ruins, and there are also ancient graves. It's not a tourist spot, very much off the beaten track. Google on it to see more and there are good directions in the Winns' book that I recommended before.

You could also make a stop in Cereste at the artisanal ice cream shop owned by writer Elizabeth Bard and her husband.

I really like this whole area... I'll be in Bonnieux for a few weeks in March and now I think I'll get back to this area for more exploring.

Kathy

frenchaucoeur

Thanks, Kathy. As a former follower of the sadly reduced Slow Travel website, I know something about your activities; in fact, years ago we discussed meeting for dinner in Paris, but it never came together.

Anyway, your description of Ansouis makes it sound like something we'd really enjoy. We both have a long-standing interest in antique furniture, primarily American but we do know something about the Louis styles and a drop about tapestry. We're also suckers for beautiful, aged things in general and beautiful views, so I expect we'll make Ansouis a stop. We've visited Curcuron several times (saw the awful Russell Crowe movie A Good Year, in which one scene was filmed at l'etang). And we're always in favor of artisanal ice cream.

I"ve looked into the abbaye of Valsaintes, and we're planning to stop there when we go up to Simiane-la-Rotonde. We'll also take a break at Viens.

Thanks so much for your help and for sharing your encyclopedic knowledge. Grace a vous and all the other Fodorites, we'll be able to bask in the beauties of Aix and also see some new sites while we're there.

frenchaucoeur

Ok, well, I just looked at the website for the chateau at Ansouis, and we'll definitely take the tour. The 18th-century interior and gardens are the kind to make our knees weak, and even though my husband doesn't speak French, he knows what he's looking at. He'll read up in advance, and he'll do fine.

This is a great suggestion. Thank you again, Kathy.

tomboy

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