mlnews

I'm planning a last minute trip to Italy- we have Florence and Rome built as bookends to a two week trip, but there are 6 days where I would love to get out into the Tuscan or Umbrian towns and explore- eat well and maybe do some cooking instruction while drinking wine! I've had some great advice from many on this forum, and have singled out Siena and Orvieto. However the desired agriturismo and tour service aren't available until later in the week. Is there another town to explore, or enough to do in Siena to stay in town for two days, in the agriturismo (right outside of town) for 2 days, and Orvieto for two nights? Oh, and we won't have a car- my husband REALLY does not want to drive in Italy (some bad experiences many years ago...).
Thanks for the advice!

tonfromleiden

Personally I find Siena a much more agreeable city than Florence. You'll find enough to keep you busy for two days.
Orvieto is a beauty, but small. If two nights means one full day, you're okay.
By the way: on leaving the train station in Orvieto you'll have the »funiculare« right in front of you to take you to the city. No need for an expensive taxi ride.

nochblad

Consider adding Arezzo as leg 2 - Siena to Arezzo to Orvieto

tonfromleiden

Arezzo is a nice city. The low-key tourism will come as a relief after Florence. But, as far as I can see, it involves a 3-hour train ride from Siena: you must go back to Florence S.M.N. to change for the »real« train to Arezzo.
Arezzo is however very well possible as a daytrip from Orvieto, if need should come. One hour on the direct - still cheap, but fast - Regionale Veloce train. (Possibly also cheap tickets for the Intercity. Try at the ticket machine the evening before.) City centre is an easy 10-minute walk from the station.

mama_mia

I think there is enough to do in both Siena and Orvieto to allow two nights for each (I enjoy museums and churches and there are enough in both towns to keep you busy.)

The frescoes by Luca Signorelli in Orvieto's Duomo are fantastic. The facade of the cathedral is also exquisite, particularly when the golden mosaics catch the sun.

In Orvieto there is also Il Pozzo di San Patrizio (Saint Patrick's Well), an impressive engineering feat from the 1500s, and underground cave tours. The National Archaeological Museum in the Piazza Duomo has some very nice Etruscan artifacts, including rebuilt frescoes from tombs (Golina I and II) that show Etruscan funeral scenes. (Really wonderful to see.)

Lots of nice restaurants, too.

Siena, too, has lots to offer. In addition to the Duomo and city hall with its frescoes of "Good and Bad Government," check out the numerous fountains. Because Siena had no close by natural water sources, it relied on irrigation systems and aqueducts for water supply. See http://www.aboutsiena.com/fountains-of-Siena.html

sandralist

To get a feeling for the wine country and the scenery, Orvieto will work better than Arezzo (although I actually prefer Arezzo to both Orvieto and Siena).

Are you willing to spring for taxis? Because you might come closest to what you want by taking a train to Chiusi and then taking a taxi to Montepulciano. If you book at the edge of town, you can have beautiful views. Your accommodation can probably hook you up with a cooking class either in town or in the countryside. Or you might see if you book someplace like this

http://www.villacicolina.it/activiti...ng-classe.html

Or just do google searches to see what else is in or around Montepulciano or Pienza. The two towns + a cooking class can keep you interested for 4 days if your main objectives are to relax and stroll and enjoy the beautiful Tuscan vistas and the amazement of these tiny jewel towns. If your husband relents on the car, you go to Chiusi and rent one.

I am unclear where you need to be at the end of 4 days. If it is Orvieto, that is very easy to get to from Montepulciano/Chiusi. If it is Siena, it's trickier, but not impossible. Or are you having a driver pick you up? They might be able to do it in Montepulciano for the same price.

sandralist

I should add that if you decide to take trains or buses + taxi rides, the taxi fares are going to be steep. Like 20 euros per person. Maybe 25. But if you want a break from "must-see" art and history sightseeing, and would rather give yourself over to charm and discovery and the intimate feeling of rural Tuscany, I'm not sure Siena or Arezzo are going to give you that, and Orvieto is fine -- but Montepuliciano would be better, I think. A taxi ride from the Chiusi train station to Montepulciano is about 30 minutes (and the ride is iconic Tuscan scenery.)

But don't expect to totally escape tourism, especially since you are going during wine/olive oil peaks.

http://www.montepulciano.net/

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/de...-hilltops.html

sandralist

I don't know what your taste and budget is, or what your travel dates are, but I am suggesting somplace at the edge of Montepulciano, located like this one (sorry for the superlong URL)

http://www.booking.com/hotel/it/mont...rc=hp_iw_title


If that doesn't work for you, you can use the map feature of Booking.com and see what else is on the periphery of town. I'm only suggesting the periphery to give the best chance of having countryside views. If you find a b&b in the center of town, some upper floors will have views, or you can walk to an overlook within a few minutes. It's compact spiral hilltown.

Getting to Montepulciano from Florence involves train to Chiusi + taxi. There is a bus, but the timing is unlikely to work out well, and there are always taxis right outside the station -- or your hotel can send someone to pick you up.

nochblad

tonfromleiden - Siena to Arezzo is less than 1 hour 30 mins with line 138 and a cost of 10 euros

tonfromleiden

»Siena to Arezzo is less than 1 hour 30 mins«
Oops! Sorry! I had only a look at rail connections. In that case Siena-Arezzo-Orvieto is a good plan.

sandralist

I had a chance to look at train + bus routes to Montepulciano and the connections are more doable than I had thought. So you might even be able to avoid the 40e or so in a taxi fare from Chiusi train station to Montepulciano by getting on a bus. But you need to look up exact train schedules for the day you would be going. Still, even if you decide a taxi would be simpler, the 20e each to get to this pretty wine town in the hills with lovely views might still be a bargain.

mama_mia

If you decide on Montepulciano for a few days, there are some wine tours to the surrounding countryside offered from the town. We took such a tour (driver to a winery) when we were in Montepulciano several years ago. It is offered through the following:

http://www.stradavinonobile.it/booki...vizi.php?cat=1

At the time, we just showed up at the offices of the tourist association, which are located on the Piazza Grande, but you might want to inquire in advance.

Strada del Vino Nobile di Montepulciano e dei Sapori della Valdichiana Senese
Piazza Grande, 7 - 53045 Montepulciano (SI)
t. 0578 717484 fax 0578 752749
E-mail: [email protected] - Skype: stradavinonobile

There are also a number of wine cellars, tasting experiences in town.

We were in Montepulciano in October and found it a lovely time (well, we were lucky with no rain).

greg

It is difficult to stay in an agriturismo or most country villas without a car. Even if there is a bus service, they mainly serve as school buses and run mostly in the morning, lunch time, and in the evening. I have looked at Montorio near Montepulciano mentioned above. While it is on a "urban" bus line with frequent service, I found out the buses stopped running before we would be done with dinners in Montepulciano. Additionally, it is quite a steep hill walk down from the city center back to Montorio.

mlnews

Thank goodness (I think) - my husband has relented and will rent a car. We will spend two days in Siena (with parking) then two days outside Siena in an agriturismo that was highly regarded on this site (Agriturismo Marciano). We will take the time to explore San Gimignano, Volterra, Chianti and Monteriggione. And relax, hopefully! Then we'll leave on Monday for Orvieto by way of Montepulciano- arriving at the city in time to drop off the car, enjoy that evening and next entire day in the city of Orvieto before leaving Wednesday on the train for Rome.
Now for the international driving permit...
Thoughts on this latest itinerary?

greg

Read the reviews of the Orvieto rental office. Many people complain about this rental office. The SR2 requires a lengthy detour around Radicofani, which is an imposing fortress ruin with a town associated with it. If you have time, visit Civita di Bagnoregio near Orvieto. The parking at Civita di Bagnoregio is somewhat complicated. There are a few parking lots near the bridge, but if they are full, you have to park quite far away. I was just there last week after 4pm and there were a lot of parking space near the bridge.

sandralist

I think your plan sound fine and is very well thought out.

With or without a car, I hope you are prepared to walk a lot, uphill and downhill, in the hilltowns of Tuscany and Umbria (Orvieto is in Umbria). Some of the negative reactions you read to locations and services have to do with the fact that people don't understand you can't just pull up to a parking space in the center of town. I will admit that living where I live in Italy, a steep walk downhill is something I do everyday. And back up as well -- with groceries! Friends of mine stayed at Agriturismo Marciano and they walked to and from Siena for dinner, while other guests drove! Many people planning a trip to italy spend time doing extra walking before they go, since they spend most of a time in a car where they live, and it's probably a good idea for a lot of people.

Also, do read up beforehand about ZTLs -- zona traffico limitato -- which exist in just about every hilltown in Italy and certainly in Florence (if that is where you are picking up the car). It's great your husband relented about the car so we all want him to have a very positive experience this time! If he is at all concerned about the ZTL in Florence, taking a taxi to the airport to pick up the car there is an option. However, you will also read negative reviews of that rental office. By and large, people's attitudes toward car rental companies is negative, I've noticed.

Have a great trip! Sounds relaxing to me.