A wonderful 8 nights in Rome...including my usual Limoncello!

SusanP, great start to your report! We were there last February, and we also had wonderful weather.

Hi there SusanP

We stayed in the Via Sora apartment last March! Wasn't it great having Baffetto right downstairs? After our third time going there, the man himself started greeting us (with the hugs and double kisses) like long-long friends, or maybe it's just the Italian way. So fun!

I agree about the noise thru the windows. But the bedroom was very quiet so that was not a particular problem for us.

I look forward to reading your report. Thanks for posting! And welcome home!

Hooray - the start of another great report. I will relive Roma through you once more.

Hi Susan!

I knew it would be you with the mention of Limoncello in the title! Glad you had another great trip. Can't wait for the rest of the report.

Johanna

Yay, SusanP took another trip to Rome so we get another fantastic trip report!!!!!! All the details, please . . .

Samsaf, glad you're enjoying it.
swisshiker, believe it or not, I never ate at Da Baffetto! I don't like to eat early, and I don't like to wait in a long line (it's even harder on the arthritic knees to stand still than walking).
Hi Barb, one of these days we're still going to have dinner in Rome!
gracie, yes, the Limoncello always has to be there!
LC, I'm happy to provide details...

I'll do a little more now and hopefully more tomorrow. I work at a school, and we might have a snow day tomorrow. If that happens, I'll get a lot more done!

OK, here's some more:

I meant to mention that at Rotundo, I tend to think that seafood is their specialty. The waiter had mentioned a couple of fish dishes to me, and I should have gone with that instead of the lamb. The young ladies next to me had a large platter for two of a selection of seafood that looked fantastic. If you go there, I recommend sticking with seafood.

I never have a problem staying up the first day in Italy and didn’t get to bed at all early last night, so I sleep in on Sunday. Actually, I sleep in every day! I’m definitely not a morning person, and I’ve been to Rome enough times (30 days over 4 trips before this one) to have the luxury of taking my time and doing just as I please. I always have a list of things to do, including opening and closing times, but I basically just enjoy Rome and get to what I get to. I know I will be back, and you could spend years in Rome and not see everything, so I just relax and enjoy. Believe me, I know I’m lucky to be in this position. My last few trips have been helped by selling stuff and a couple of small windfalls.

The Academia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia is celebrating its 100th birthday, and there are concerts all day long today (Sunday) at the Auditorium Parco della Musica (north of Borghese Park). I am meeting a friend there for a concert at 5:30. We will probably also go to one at 6:30 and then come back into the city for dinner. I talked to her to see where we would meet, and she tells me that as you come up to the auditorium, there is a huge book/music store and it’s a good place to meet at 5:00 so we can go and get tickets. The website says there’s a bus from Piazza San Silvestro. Great, because I want to go to the San Silvestro church, plus the TIM store on Via Tritone is right on the way. I walk over there, but it turns out that the TIM store isn’t open on Sunday after all, so I’ll have to wait until tomorrow to see what the problem is with my cell phone.

Anyway, I go on to San Silvestro. I didn’t have the hours for this church, and it’s closed. I can’t see on the signs anything about opening hours, but decide to wait around a bit. It has a courtyard that’s got some interesting things. Sure enough it does open (I think at 3:30). This is where the head of John the Baptist is. From what I read, I guess it’s the real thing. Hmmm, I’m not sure I really needed to see this! But it’s a beautiful church. I decide I need something to eat, since dinner is a long way off, so I go to Café San Silvestro right on the piazza. Excellent bean soup with pasta (in a tomato-based broth). I order a glass of house wine, but he actually brings ¼ liter. I’m outside and it’s chilly, but I still enjoy being outside, and the hot soup tastes good. Not cheap for soup and wine, 18E.

There are a lot of bus connections on this piazza. I had checked them out when I got there and go over to catch the #53 to the auditorium. As I’m waiting for the bus, I really look more closely at the sign showing the stops. I’m pretty sure it says that it only runs Mon-Sat, and I confirm this with an Italian lady who is there. Well, if I had realized that, I could easily have arranged my time to be able to take a bus to Termini and then change to a bus from there to the auditorium, but at this point, I really don’t have time to do that. Fortunately, there is a taxi stand right there in the piazza, so I take a taxi. At first, I think the driver is taking me way out of the way, since he’s going west, towards the river, and the auditorium is directly north. I try to ask him, but he doesn’t speak much English. When we go a little further, I realize that he has gone this way because once he gets over to the river, it’s much quicker to drive up along the river (not much traffic), and we get there in good time. So he wasn’t trying to give me a longer ride than necessary.

I find the bookstore (you can’t miss it) and look around for a few minutes and then go close to the door to wait for my friend. She never shows up. Now, I know that she wouldn’t just not show up, and there are a lot of people, so I keep waiting. By 5:30, I decide I might as well go see if I can still get a ticket and see a concert by myself. As I go around to the ticket office, I realize there are two more entrances to the bookstore, so I’m thinking we must have been waiting at different spots. Turns out that by that time the 5:30 tickets are sold out, and so are the 6:30 ones. There are tickets available for one of the 7:30 shows, but I really didn’t want to stick around waiting for two more hours. Oh well, it wasn’t a total loss, as I got a couple of jazz CD’s for my son at the store.

I take the bus back into Rome and go to La Tartaruga, Via del Monte della Farina 53, for dinner. The owner (who is also the waiter) takes your coat when you arrive. I had been here before and have to order the Carpaccio of Swordfish with red onion and fennel again. It is divine! When I’m done and he takes my plate, I tell him that I was here a couple of years ago and had that dish and had to come back. He smiles and pats my shoulder. I follow that with Veal Scallopine in lemon sauce with spinach, which is also excellent. I’m too full for dessert (which also looks good), but he just says “Piano, piano,” and I agree that it’s lovely to just take my time and finish my wine. With ½ bottle Rosso di Montalcino, 43.50E. I go back to the Piazza Navona. It’s 10:15, and the piazza is again empty. The artists have again closed up early because it’s cold. Naturally, this once again does not stop me from having my Limoncello!

Hello SusanP, I too figured from the thread title that you again went to Rome. Good for you! I love your style of writing and so enjoy reading about your adventures in Rome.

Enjoying your report, Susan. Glad you got to return to your beloved Roma once again.

Great Report! I am anxiously awaiting the outcome of the TIM card hunt. I just bought a cell phone on ebay for a May Italy trip. Can't wait to hear how it turns out.

Yeah Limoncello!

Jami

Nice report, thanks SusanP.

SusanP and swisshiker: I am reconsidering my Rome accomodations and have a question about the via Sora apartment through SleepinItaly. Did you pay a final cleaning fee? Any other fees?

Thanks. Don't intend to hijack the thread...

"I’ve been to Rome enough times . . . to have the luxury of taking my time and doing just as I please."

That is my dream . . .

I forgot to mention that our trip to Rome was in February. Although much closes outside at night because it is cold, we really were happy with fewer crowds and very relaxed and friendly people in general. Did you find that to be the case?

And, of course, winter is perfect for lovely red wine and delicious soup!

I haven't read past sipping limoncello in Piazza Navona after dinner -- love it -- I will have to try it in May.

I'm looking forward to reading the rest, once my kids give me a moment, that is

Thanks, LoveItaly & Statia.
cjamigo, read on for more info on the TIM card.
tuscanlifeedit, yes, there is a 35E final cleaning fee on the Via Sora apartment.
LC, yes, the fewer crowds are certainly a bonus, I noticed a significant difference even compared to March. I have found friendly people at all times of the year, though, even in July. And lots of the restaurants have heaters so you can still sit outside.
mebe, glad you're enjoying it!

Here's some more...

Monday morning I leave the apartment and head over to Campo de’ Fiori. It’s an absolutely beautiful day, warm when you’re in the sun and chilly when you’re not. I’m going to Forno for some of that piazza bianco that is supposed to be so good. Somehow, I haven’t had it before. I suppose this is heresy, but I have to say that I had some that was much better in a little shop in Testaccio last year. It just wasn’t that good. I get some fruit from the market for breakfast for the next few mornings and go back to the apartment to drop it off.

Now I’m on a mission to find out what’s wrong with my cell phone. There is a closer TIM store on Corso Vittorio Emanuele in the block east of Piazza San Andrea de Valle (and there’s another one at the northern end of Corso Rinascimento, just across from the Tourist Office). I explain my problem, and the clerk says I have to register the TIM card with my passport. Of course, I had done this before leaving home, but apparently it didn’t take for some reason. I have no idea why it didn’t work. She copied my passport and went in on the computer to activate it. All set now. By the way, I liked the TIM card because it is good for a year, and indefinitely if you add more time. The key is that you can add more time from the US if you buy a recharge card before leaving Italy. The other company (I think Vodaphone?) has to be recharged only in Italy.

I’m off to the Pyramid of Caius Cestius and the Protestant Cemetery, planning to go to Volpetti’s for some great cheese when I’m done, since it’s just down the street. My map makes it look like I need to get off the bus at the Roma Ostia RR Station, when in fact I should have gotten off at the Cave Ardeatine stop, which is right at the Pyramid. The map also doesn’t show where the entrance to the cemetery is, so once back at the Pyramid, I start walking down Viale d. Campo Boano looking for it. There is one large locked gate, which makes me wonder if it’s closed, but then I see a woman inside, so I continue on looking for the entrance. I get down to Via Nicola Zabaglia and turn there. Well, naturally, the entrance must be on the other side.

However, this walk was not wasted, because across the street on Nicola Zabaglia is the Rome War Cemetery for soldiers from Britain in World War II. As long as I’ve walked all this way, I might as well go in! I’m the only person there except one other woman talking to the groundskeeper. It’s beautiful. I find this cemetery quite moving, and it is beautifully kept. The headstones give the name and age of the soldier, as well as their regiment. The domed building you walk through to get in has this inscription around the top just below the dome: “These Soldiers of the British Commonwealth gave their lives to preserve liberty and by their sacrifice restored the freedom of Italy and the ancient friendship of the Italian and British people.”

I continue on and turn up Via Caio Cestio and finally reach the entrance to the Protestant Cemetery when I’m almost back up to Via Marmorata. If I had gone the other way from the Pyramid, I would have found it very quickly. But as I say, then I would have missed the British one, which I really enjoyed. The Protestant one is very different from the flat, serene, evenly placed graves and identical headstones at the British one. It’s on quite a steep hill with all sorts of ornate headstones very close together with narrow paths winding among them. Of course, I find the graves for Shelley and Keats, and there are lots of other interesting ones, some very moving. This cemetery also has its own cat sanctuary, much smaller than the one at Torre Argentina. I see about ten cats. I’ve been walking a lot today, and there’s a lovely clearing at the end by the Pyramid where I find a bench and just sit in the sun for a while. It’s been very snowy, gray and dreary in Upstate New York all winter, and I realize how much I’ve been craving some sun. It feels so good, I sit here for ½ hour or more until the sun moves behind some trees.

I walk on up to Volpetti’s. I knew they don’t reopen until 5:00 pm and that I might be a little early, but the cemeteries took less time than I expected. It’s only a little after 3:00, and I don’t really want to wait around that long, so I’ll have to come back another day. I grab a Prosciutto Crudo Panini at Bar Marmorata (quite good, 2.50E) and get out my list of things I’d like to see. The Roman houses underneath SS Giovanni e Paolo are open 3-6, and my notes even show which buses go there. I can get the 75 right there on Via Marmorata, so I decide I’ll go there. I get off the bus on Via d. San Gregorio just down from the Arch of Constantine and try to figure out how to get up to the church. There are some stairs, which of course I hate to go up if it’s not the right way, but I think it is. Just then, a woman comes down them, so I ask her if the church is up those stairs. She starts to say yes, but I think she figures her English isn’t good enough to really explain the directions, so she says I should follow her. She trots all the way back up, a little down the street and then points up to the church. It was so nice of her to go to all that trouble. You really do meet great people when you travel!

Entry fee is 6E. You go down into actual Roman houses underneath the church. There are some great frescoes, and at the end there is a museum of artifacts that includes a lot of pottery. Very interesting. When I leave, I ask the woman there if the church is open. It is, so I go up in the church as well. When I’m done, I take the bus back to the apartment to put my feet up for a while.

Dinner is at La Danesina, Via del Governo Vecchio, a place I’ve been to numerous times. I start out with Bresaola with arugula and parmesan. It’s delicious. Then I have to have my favorite Tomato Turrine with Buffalo Mozarella. This soup is so good, and great for a chilly night. I also order the Fried Artichoke to go with it, just because I love them, and it is wonderful. With ½ liter of house wine and water, 28.50E. They also have great desserts here, but I am too full. There are two couples at the next table, and one of the ladies has looked over a few times, and then smiles at me. Finally, she asks me what that is on my plate. She means the artichoke, so I tell her about it and say she has to have one while in Rome! We get talking about a lot of things. They are from Holland and have never been to Rome, despite being relatively close (well, compared to us!). After talking for a while, one of the guys asks me if I don’t get bored being by myself in Rome. I say no, not at all, and lots of times I end up with people to talk to at dinner! They all laugh, as they see exactly what I mean.

Of course, I go back to the Piazza Navona. It’s cold. It is 10:30, and it’s empty again. Oh well, I can still enjoy my Limoncello!

tuscan, as SusanP has said, yes there was a small cleaning fee. If you have any questions about this place, I'd be glad to answer them, either here on perhaps a new thread or by email, swisshiker at yahoo. We also stayed in another apt. in Rome thru SIL on that same trip, the one on Piazza Rondanini.

Now, back to Susan's lovely report.

I just realized I forgot what I did after going to SS Giovanni e Paolo. When I’m done, as I go back down towards the bus, I’m so close to San Gregorio Magno that I figure I should take the chance to go in. I turn down the side street towards it and see that it has about 100 steps up to it! Oh, do I really want to go up there? OK, it wasn’t really 100. Of course, I count them. There are 28 or 29 steps, and I realize that’s only a few more than I have up to my apartment. Guess it’s a good thing I didn’t see those steps all spread out at once! (In the apartment building, of course, the steps wind around with 4 landings breaking up the 24 steps.) I can see that the door to the church is open, so up I go, through the door, down the covered walkway (where there's obviously a lot of work going on) to the door, where there is a sign informing me that visitation of the church has been suspended. I really think they shouldn’t be opening that outside door if you’re not going to be able to get in! Don’t you think there should be a law against that? On the other hand, once again, the extra steps aren’t a total loss. It’s a great view from the top step. All those great umbrella pines, which I just love.

I'll try to do some more later.

SusanP - What a wonderful report. My phone arrived in the mail today. I am glad your TIM card worked out. Do you mind if I asked where you purchased your TIM card before you left for Italy.

I can't wait to hear more. I adore that you end every evening with Limoncello.

cjamigo, I bought the card at www.telestial.com. $39, which includes 5 Euro of time. Calls within Italy are $.19 per minute. I forget at the moment what calls back to the US are, but it's more expensive. I think it's still cheaper to buy a Europa International Calling Card (5 Euro for 200 minutes) for those calls.

Thanks SusanP. I will probably just buy one when I get there.

Jami

I can't wait to hear more on Rome!

SusanP...

Thanks for the great report. I was in Rome last December and will back this coming December...can't get enough!

Well the nerve SusanP..I got home and looked forward to more installments, lol. Well you are forgiven but I do hope there is more to read tomorrow evening. In the meantime, take care and may I say I hope you have a bottle of Linoncello at home!

Hi Susan,

I saw the word Limoncello and I knew it was you. I am looking forward to reading your report. I love Rome in the winter time!

Aloha

Enjoying your post, SusanP.

Looking forward to more limoncello anecdotes.

bookmark

Hi Susan

I have my second trip to Rome planned for this October and am really enjoying your report, especially since I will be traveling solo also. Your report is very timely given the current exchange rate. I have my hotel booked, but am considering switching to an apartment to cut costs. The information on the apartment on via Sora is very helpful.

Susan, I am so impressed that you have mastered the fine art of bus travel in Rome. You are inspiring me to give it a try next time. I am also in awe of your ability to find all these wonderful churchs. Do you have a map showing where they are?, or just good research?

Thanks for sharing. Sadly,as of now, this will be the first year in 4 years that I have not stayed in Rome. France is "calling" me for my main trip this year.
Susan, you help prove my point that Rome deserves TIME. After well more than 30 nights, I still want more, but am glad to be able to go at my pace.
Great report!

SusanP

I had to chuckle when the couple asked if you tire of traveling alone. THERE IS NO BETTER WAY! My husband can't take the time off, so I leave him home and go go go. I have been to Italy several times. Two years ago spent 4 days in Venice and met some great people. I will be in Rome in May with my 24 year old son for several days before visiting friends in Padova and then Florence.

If you only had 3 days in Rome, what are the sights you would be sure not to miss and how about some good, inexpensive restaurants (is there such a thing as inexpensive with the euro??)

I still have a bottle of limoncello that I brought home from my last visit. I just keep looking at it to remember all those great memories!

LowCountryIslander, thanks, and have a great time in December!

LoveItaly, sorry about that! I had to work overtime yesterday and was too tired to write. I'll definitely do some more tonight. And of course I have Limoncello at home, although I don't drink it every night!

cafegoddess, I think Limoncello has become my symbol!
Thanks, 5 alive. nwtraveler, an apartment is great as long as you don't feel the need for a concierge or desk clerk to help you out.

Barb, the buses aren't that hard to figure out once you get the hang of it. The thing you have to remember when looking at the signs to see where each bus stops is that it won't say the name of the site (except for a couple like the Colosseum). It gives the street names. For instance, to get to the Piazza Navona, you want to get off at Corso Rinascimento or one of a couple on Corso Vittorio Emanuele. The stops are not named "Piazza Navona." As far as finding churches, it's a combination of recommendations here, reading books (I like the DK Eyewitness Guide), looking at my Streetwise Rome Map and in some cases, just going inside because it's there!

jabez, there are other places I'd like to go, but the problem is, I'd have to give up Italy for a trip to go somewhere else. At this point, I'm not willing to do that! And the trip always has to include Rome. In 5 trips, I've now spent 38 nights in Rome and have every intention of going again (this July, actually ).

kraspa, yes, the beauty of traveling alone is that you can do whatever you want whenever you want to do it. Hmmmm...the best in 3 days? That's a tough one. For a first-timer, 3 days will be taken up with the obvious things (Colosseum/Forum, Vatican/St. Peter's, Pantheon/Piazza Navona/Trevi Fountain, that sort of thing). Just off the top of my head, a couple of my favorite churches are Santa Maria della Vittoria (Bernini's Ecstasy of St. Theresa, plus just the church itself) and San Andrea al Quirinale (an absolute gem).

More later.

Here's some more...

Tuesday is another gorgeous day, not a cloud in sight. I want to go to the Doria Pamphilj Gallery and get on the bus to Piazza Venezia and walk around to the left up Via d. Gatta because from something I read, I think the entrance is at Piazza del Collegio Romano. Well, there is an entrance there, but you’re not allowed in that way (naturally!). The sign says to go around to the Via del Corso side, so I do that and find the entrance. The entry fee is 8E, which includes the excellent audio guide. For once, here is one that works and is set up well. You can punch in the number of the item when you want a description and can skip it if you’re not interested. This is an impressive collection of art that the family is required to keep together. I can’t remember for sure now, it may be due to an edict by Pope Innocent X. Velazquez’s portrait of him and Bernini’s sculpture of him are both here. It’s a big place, so lots of walking. One opulent hallway is very reminiscent of the Hall of Mirrors at Versailles. One painting that interests me is of a bunch of toddlers fighting! When you look closer, you see it’s cherubs (very white skin and wings) and others with slightly redder skin who look decidedly unfriendly. The usual good vs. evil. I mention this one in particular because of something I see later tonight.

After the gallery, I do a little shopping along Via Pie di Marmo at Confetteria Moriondo & Gariglio (chocolate) and G. Poggi, an art supply store that also has wonderful handmade paper. Great if you like to do scrapbooks or journals. G. Poggi is actually two stores on Via Pie di Marmo on either side of Via del Gesu, one has the art supplies and the other the handmade paper. I had found both of these in The Civilized Shopper’s Guide to Rome, a terrific little book if you like to shop. I walk down Via del Gesu and go in the church. I’ve been here at Christmas time and love it, plus I really want to sit down for a bit! Of course, Gesu is amazing, well worth a visit. When I’ve rested, I go across the street to House & Kitchen, which carries lots of great kitchen stuff. It’s on Via d. Plebiscito directly at the bus stop, so when I’m done, I take the bus back to my apartment. Definitely time to put my feet up!

For dinner, I go to Armando al Pantheon. I had made a reservation yesterday when I tried to go there and found them full. Yes, even in February, you need reservations at a lot of places. I had been here before and know I want the Bruschetta Pomodoro again. I don’t know why theirs is so much better than anyplace else, but it is. I follow it with Saltimbocco ala Romano, also delicious. I end with Catalan Custard, which is like Crème Brulee. It’s good, but I should have gone with the Panne Cotta, which I had tried here before and liked better. With ½ bottle wine and water, 33.50E. They have a lot of pictures, paintings and other things on the walls here. As I’m looking around, there I see the picture I had seen at the Doria Pamphilj of the fighting cherubs and devils on a Chianti Russo ad! It just seems so strange that I should see it the same day I had seen the actual painting.

On my way back to the Piazza Navona, as I pass the Pantheon, the Piazza della Rotonda is empty except for a small tour group. I have to sort of smile, because the tour leader is still holding her little flag up in the air. Does she really think they might get lost or not be able to spot her? Back at the Piazza Navona, it’s empty and my favorite café, Café Barocca, is closing, so I have to go to the one next door, Ristorante Panzirone for my Limoncello. Much more expensive and the waiters aren’t as nice. It’s very cold. I can see my breath. Somehow this is easier to take while sipping Limoncello in Rome!

I’m tired the next morning, so I really sleep in. I’ve done a LOT of walking the past two days and feel like my knees need a rest. Should I admit to not going to see a thing today? It’s another glorious day, so I take a book and walk over to the Piazza Navona and spend quite a while just sitting there reading and watching the people. It’s a little warmer today, and the sun feels wonderful. I thoroughly enjoy doing basically nothing!

A little later, I walk over to Via dei Banchi Vecchi (not far from my apartment), grabbing a slice of pizza on the way, to look for a jewelry store in that same shopping book. I’m not thrilled with anything in particular, but I find another shop down the street, Sancesario Emilio. Uh oh, now I’m in trouble! He and his brother and sister hand make all their jewelry using various stones, Venetian glass and Swarovski crystals. Beautiful stuff. He only speaks a little English, but we manage to communicate. He is very proud of their work and shows me a brochure of a big show where their jewelry was featured and explains that they never make more than six of any piece. His items from last season are on sale for 20-50% off. I get a couple of Christmas gifts at half price. Of course, the two items I really want myself are from the new Spring line and are not on sale, but he does give me 10% off those as well. Fun!

I head over to Il Bacaro, Via degli Spagnoli, for dinner, where I’ve eaten numerous times before. I have the Beef with Mustard Cream and Orange Sauce and a salad with is Carpaccio of Artichokes and Parmesan. Delicious. With 2 glasses of wine, 40.50E. Back at the Piazza Navona, it’s much warmer tonight. I don’t need my jacket when right next to the heater, and there are more people around while I enjoy the Limoncello. When I’m about finished, it starts raining. I have an umbrella back at the apartment, so I really don’t want to buy another one. Hmmm...I don’t want to get wet, so I guess I’ll just have to have another Limoncello! Sure enough, after that, it stopped raining.

bookmarking

Oh Susan, I just love reading your reports! And I really did laugh out loud about your thought process regarding the rain, umbrella at the apartment..easy solution..have another Limoncello! A woman after my own heart

LoveItaly, seemed like a good idea to me!

Susan-
Loving your report! I'll be in Rome in two weeks for 8 nights and I just can't wait!

Making note of all the restaurants you are mentioning. Hope to hit a few on my trip in May!

SusanP ~ I am enjoying this SO much, your report makes me feel like we are back in Roma. I want to go back NOW, can I, can I, huh, can I??????

Wonderful report! More, please!

By the way, I heard there are no more cats at the Torre Argentina. Apparently, they moved the kitties to another shelter.

Wonderful report. We made our first trip to Italy last summer. We're going to skip a big family trip this summer, so we can spend three weeks next summer!

SusanP - I too knew you'd been to Rome when I saw the title!

I was there about the same time, traveling with my daughter (bubblywine...) and we thought we saw Rick Steves!

We were sitting on the steps by the fountain at the Pantheon people watching and several people in safari hats walked by. So we had to chat about safari hats in Rome in February when a guy who looked just like Rick walked by with great purpose.

Anyway - back to your trip report! Such fun to read.

Kristina, have a great time! Wish I could go again that soon!
kraspa, the food is just so good...

Tiff, glad you're enjoying it. I know just how you feel!

petitepois, I didn't know that. Although I was near Torre Argentina a couple of times, I didn't go over to look at the cats. Do you know where they've moved them?

GranthamMommy, I perfectly understand your reasoning!

rosetravels, such fun, too bad we didn't know ahead of time that we'd be there at the same time. It's always fun to meet up with another Fodorite! OK, safari hats in Rome in February?!!

I had a lot to do today so didn't get the next installment done but will try to do it tomorrow.

Well, it hasn't been a good week, but I finally had time to write some more...

The next morning, I take the bus to Piazza Repubblica to go to Santa Maria degli Angeli/Diocletian Baths. Of course, it’s huge. I decide to buy the guidebook they’re selling (5 Euro) to learn more about the unusual contemporary sculptures, both on the doors and inside, as well as all the rest. The Polish sculptor Igor Mitoraj has done the Annunciation and Resurrection sculptures on the doors and the huge head of John the Baptist inside. Very striking, and it’s surprising how well they fit in. There’s a lot more to see here, and since I have the book describing everything, I spend quite a while looking at it all. The massive organ, also contemporary (1990’s by Barthelemy Formentelli) is amazing. Any organist should go there just to see the organ.

I had been on a quest all week to find some olive oil with basil. I had bought some in Venice last July and wanted more. It’s so good! I had been in at least four supermercatos with no luck, but a friend had told me about a big one by Santa Maria Maggiore. I had decided that morning that I’d go there after Angeli to see if I can find the oil. However, I’m hungry and want to find someplace for lunch. I feel like sitting down to eat today and relaxing, not just grabbing a slice of pizza, plus I need a restroom! This makes me go in the first place I come to, the Tea Room on Via Viminale. They also serve lunch. The Beef Carpaccio is delicious. With a glass of wine, 14E.

Now to find the olive oil. I walk over to Santa Maria Maggiore and around to the front. At first I don’t see it, even though my friend had told me that it was downstairs. I ask a sidewalk vendor (good thing I didn’t need much Italian for this conversation, my limited amount sufficed) and he shows me where it is. In case you ever want to find it, if you’re standing in front of Maggiore with your back to the church, it is across the street diagonally to the left, with a sign that says “Sma Entrada.” It is downstairs, but there’s an elevator if you need it. And success, I find the oil, as well as some lemon olive oil. They also had garlic and hot pepper oils, but I didn’t have a lot of room in my suitcase. I take the bus back to the apartment for my usual break before dinner.

Tonight I decide to try Da Luigi, dutyfree’s recommendation, and I even order the meal she suggested, Grilled Calamari and Spinach in olive oil. A delicious meal. I decide I have room for dessert and get the Tartufo Nero (dark chocolate). It’s pretty good, but not wonderful. With ½ litre wine and water, 28E.

Back at the Piazza Navona, it’s empty except for one small tour group. Like the previous one at the Pantheon, even though there’s nobody else around, the tour guide is still holding up her flag. This amuses me. OK, I’m easily amused! Café Barocca is closed (yes, the waiters do get a night off), so I go to Tre Scalini for my Limoncello. I should have waited until I got here to have the Tartufo.

On Friday, after having spent 36 days in Rome (in 5 trips), I finally decide to take a daytrip. It’s true, I’ve never done it before. During the last 3 trips, I had planned to take one but somehow never got around to it. It always amazes me when people say they can "do" Rome in 3 or 4 days. I guess that once I’m in Rome, I don’t want to leave! It’s another beautiful day, and I’m off to Ostia Antica. I use Walter’s excellent directions, except I take the bus to the train instead of the Metro. Oh, and he didn’t mention the 44 steps on either side of the pedestrian bridge in Ostia Antica! Of course, I have to count them...

I was planning to get the audioguide, but as I walk up to the ticket booth, there is a big sign, “No audioguides.” I had read a little about Ostia Antica but would have read more if I had known this. No matter, I very much enjoy it. There are placards posted at various spots which give some background to the remains. And the grounds are absolutely beautiful! As I mentioned, I just love the umbrella pines, and there are lots of them here. I climb the stairs at one spot, and it gives a great view of the grounds plus you can look down at some mosaics. And I climb up to the top of the amphitheatre and just sit in the sun for quite a while. Lovely! This is a great spot to wander around even if you don’t always know exactly what you’re seeing, and sometimes you do know more from the placards. The museum is also interesting and worth a visit. I would highly recommend this visit, and if you have kids, they will love it, as they can climb all over everything. Easy to get to as well.

I have lunch at the cafeteria behind the museum. OK, the food is a little strange. Not that it’s weird food, just not what you expect in Italy. Although there is a pasta dish, there is another dish I can’t remember at the moment (not at all Italian) and what I decide to have, Polish Sausage with sautéed greens. I think the greens were chicory, not my favorite thing, as I find them bitter. Not the greatest lunch, but of course by this time I’m hungry and won’t be near another restaurant any time soon. With a bottle of water, 8E.

That evening, I’m not sure where I want to go for dinner, but after all that walking at Ostia Antica, don’t really want to go too far. I walk up Via del Governo Vecchio and come to La Zucca. It looks open but is completely empty! This would ordinarily make me go somewhere else (it wasn’t that early, after 8:30), but I’ve eaten here before and it was very good, so I go in anyway. Although I had been thinking about the Beef Carpaccio, which was wonderful the last time I was here, the Rissoto alla Mimma (with sea fruits, zucchini and saffron) sounded so good that I have to try it. As it turns out, this could have been my whole meal. It includes mussels, shrimp and I think more, although I didn’t write down everything. It is wonderful! I had ordered the Scampi al forno (grilled shrimp) as well, which I don’t really need, but it's also good, and fortunately not that filling. With ½ litre wine and water, 29.50E.

It’s a little warmer tonight, so the Piazza Navona has people around and a lot of the artists are still there. I just relax and enjoy it as usual.

Hooray! You're back!

SusanP - As usual, another great report. And I too knew when I saw Limoncello (THE NECTAR OF THE GODS!!) in the title, it was a trip report from you.

I missed your first postings because I was heading for my first trip to Germany. But I am glad I stumbled across it tonight. I look forward to the rest.

Tom

Thanks, Rose.
Tom, glad you're enjoying it. One more day to do, I'll try to finish up tonight.

Here's the rest:

On Saturday, the weather is glorious! How can this be my last day already? I take the bus over to Santa Maria in Cosmedin. I’ve already done the picture with Bocca della Verita (good thing, as there’s a long line waiting for it) but never went inside the church. This is one of the places where you can just feel the age. A beautiful church. I come out and sit in the sun for a bit by the Fontana dei Tritoni and Temple of Vesta, then walk across the Ponte Palatino into Trastavere.

I’m getting hungry and again stop at the first place I come to. I tend to do this when I want lunch, because I don’t want to have to plan my day around a lunch spot. This time it’s Cornucopia on Piazza in Piscinula. The salad of arugula, pears, pine nuts, parmigiana & raisins is great, and although I order a glass of wine, the waiter actually brings ¼ litre (usually between 1 and 2 glasses). It’s so beautiful, that I take my time and enjoy the great weather. I get talking to the British couple next to me and ask them if they would look in their guidebook to see if it gives the hours for San Calisto, which I had noticed on my map near St. Crisogono, my actual goal after lunch. They don’t find anything, but there is information on Crisogono, which my older version of the DK Eyewitness Guide didn’t have. It doesn’t open until 4:00, so I have plenty of time.

While we’re talking, the waiter asks if he can take my plate, since I was finished, and I say yes, but I want my wine (I had a small amount left in the glass). While we’re still talking, next thing I know, he’s pouring from another ¼ litre of wine into my glass. Guess he thought I meant I wanted more. Oh well, I certainly wouldn’t want it to go to waste! I decide I might as well have dessert along with it and order the Panne Cotta with berries, which is delicious. More than I usually spend for lunch, 21E, but it is a very leisurely one. (And I’d note that the bread was 2.50E, more than usual.)

I finally leave and head towards St. Crisogono, stopping on the way to go in a small church I pass, Chiesa di S. Agata Santuario Madonna del Carmine, mostly because it’s there. You never know what you might find in churches in Rome. This one could use some restoration, and the paintings are so dark that you can’t make the picture out, but the figure of the saint dressed as a nun, but without the usual headdress, is interesting. I like the cherubs in front of her holding music scores.

Since I still have extra time, I go look for San Calisto. I do find Piazza San Calisto, but there’s really not a church there. There’s a very small building with steps up the front and a picture of a saint on it, so maybe that’s it. My map showed a church, though, which was nowhere to be found. I circle back to Via St. Crisogono, because somebody here had given a link to a website about this church and excavations underneath it that had recently been opened to the public. OK, there’s no church on St. Crisogono. There’s a sign with that name and the hours for the church, but as I’m standing there reading it, a man comes out of the building, which it turns out is an apartment building. I ask him in my best Italian where the church is, but he just shrugs his shoulders.

OK, this gets stranger. On the same street, there are two or three more signs with the church hours, all on various apartment buildings (and the times vary)! No sign of the church anywhere. I don’t seem to have written down exactly where I did find the church, but looking at my map, I'm pretty sure it's on Viale d. Trastavere. Having pretty much given up, I came around the corner and there it was. The church itself is nice, there’s nobody there except me and a man passing out bulletins for a service later in the day. He doesn’t speak any English, but with my limited Italian I ask about the excavations, motioning that I want to go downstairs. At first he just looks at me like I’m crazy. I go through it again, motioning some more, and ask if it’s open. He’s obviously skeptical, but finally tells me to follow him, and he takes me in a side room. There’s a 2E fee to go down. I’m not sure why he didn’t want to show me. Maybe he was surprised I even knew about it, or wondered if I really wanted to go down there.

Anyway, it’s well worth the 2E. Definitely not for the handicapped. It starts with some stone steps, and he says, “Piano, piano” as I start down. I assure him I will go slowly. There are metal walkways through parts of it. The rest, you’re stepping over stones and the remains of walls, but some nice frescoes and I enjoy it very much. Quite a large area has been excavated. When I come back upstairs, the man is coming out of another side area. For some reason, I’m sure there’s a bathroom in there, and since I need one, I ask him if I can use it. He gives me a look as if to say, “Gee, lady, is there anything else you want?” But then he lets me use it.

After Crisogono, I work my way over to a favorite shop, Polvere di Tempo on Via del Moro. They have a lot of cool things here, all kinds of time-keeping things, except no clocks. I’ve bought a couple neat things here for my son and get another. They will also seal the little gift bag with sealing wax and an initial. I wander back towards my apartment to put my feet up.

I’ve walked a lot today again and don’t want to go far for dinner. I end up going to Da Paino on Via de Parione, which by the way they’ve been digging up all week. I have Rigatoni alla Carbonara, which isn’t bad but isn’t great, either. I should have gone with pizza, as that looked good on several nearby tables. With ½ litre wine, 13E. For my last night in the Piazza Navona, it’s quite a bit warmer tonight, so lots of people and artists. I decide I should have dessert with my Limoncello and get Café Barocca’s Hot Chocolate Souffle with Whipped Cream. OK, this makes up for the so-so dinner! A good end to another beautiful trip. I can’t wait to go back!

what a fantastic report - I'm going to Rome for the first time in September and just cannot wait. As much as I want to see all the famous sites and pack as much in to 5 days as I can, I really look forward to the day I can travel to Rome and just be there. Some day...

Can't wait to try limoncello

Very lovely, as usual, SusanP. Please go again soon!

lifeofmytime, have a great trip! Five days is enough to see a lot and still take a little time to relax and just enjoy Rome.

LC, I will, I will...in July

thank you so much--my mouth is watering from all the descriptive meals...

love Rome 2 ; a treat to read ur report thank you.

AndrewDavid

Thanks, treble & Andrew. Glad you enjoyed it.

Susan, another lovely report, thank you. I also love Polvere di Tempo. I buy a little something there every trip to Rome. It is just a block away from my apt, which is on the corner of Via Del Moro and Via Lungaretta and next to a great little bookstore. I am so missing Roma and limoncello!!!

Yes, Barb, isn't that store great? I've thought about staying in Trastavere, but I so enjoy Piazza Navona at night and don't like to have to go far from there.

OK - I looked up limoncello, and found out it is a lemon liquore made from lemon rind rather than lemon juice, so it isn't sour. Why is it your favorite drink in Italy? Are there special places you recommend to try it? What else do they serve at Cafe Barocca? Thanks.

butnotrmpt, I guess it's my favorite drink because I love the way it tastes! And it's very nice after a meal. You can get it just about anywhere in Rome. If it looks a little greenish, that's a good thing. You don't want the kind with additives. It should just have the lemon, sugar and alcohol (normally grain alcohol is used). I've never asked a waiter if they have the pure stuff, I think most places in Italy do. Cafe Barocca does serve full meals as well.

I know what you mean, but I've switched my routine so I have a drink (vino or limoncello) at Piazza Navona late aft. and then dinner somewhere in Trastevere. No matter how you do it, you are Rome, so you can't go wrong.

I'm so glad to hear that you enjoyed a February trip! My husband and I are thinking about a trip for next year, and because he's in school we're limited to "spring break time." (Since when is Spring in February, anyway??)

I've been nervous that the cold weather might make it tough to enjoy the trip (our Italian honeymoon a few years ago was in June), but your post gives me hope!

Tarheels, yes, even though it was cooler than normal the first part of the week, I was lucky with almost no rain. I wish I were there right now!

SusanP,

I am enjoying your Rome report. My family (SWMBO + 14 yo + 11 yo) are planning to take a trip to Rome this September.

I would like some advice please. As a family of four I have been told to stay away from hotels and instead try for an apartment.

We are first time Rome tourists - like lambs to the slaughter I fear. There is just so much to prepare for...

Can you pls tell me:

1) where to stay (in which part of the city) so that we are close to the major tourist sites that we can walk to? I am considering Piazza Navona as a possible location

2) do landlords rent apartments for 4 nights only? I'd read somewhere that apartment rentals are normally for a minimum of one week

3) meals for a family costing E$30 - $40 might be too much to spend. Perhaps OK for one night, but I can't see us sustaining this every day. Do you have suggestions on how I might water and feed a family without taking out a second mortgage?

Appreciate any advice forthcoming.

Many thanks.

Richard
Melbourne, Australia

Hello Ricgstevens

Welcome to Fodor's! We happy to have you join us.

While some people who have been following Susan's wonderful report may help you, I believe you will get more answers if you post your own question under a new heading.

There are lots of wise and very helpful members here who would love to help you, but sometimes when you need specifics, it gets lost if you add to an already-existing thread.

Also, if you use the search function on this Europe forum (using specific words like "Rome apartments"), you will come up with lots of previous comments.

However, for a start, I would try linking to sleepinitaly.com. They've got lots and lots of apartments to sift thru, many of which do not require 7 day minimums.

My favorite area to stay in is Piazza Navona as you are smack dab in the center of the historical city. Many prefer Trastevere, Fiori, or other areas.

As far as food costs, there is a very good thread circulating right now about this very question (although it is regarding Paris) but still relevant to your querie. Do a search for screen name "Samsaf" and you should find it.

Happy travels!