A Trip Report: Springtime in Italy - May 9 to June 2, 2011
Jun 26th, 2011, 10:20 PM
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A Trip Report: Springtime in Italy - May 9 to June 2, 2011
<i>"Italy is like a dream that keeps on returning for the rest of your life."</i>
- Anna Akhmatova
From the moment we returned from our first trip to Italy in September 2009, DH & I yearned to go back. There was so much more for us to see, to discover & to experience in Venice, Pienza & the surrounding Val D'Orcia and Florence. We had a desire to explore Umbria and to go to Rome. I also wanted to see the Tuscan landscape in the spring.
Thus, our plans began to take shape.
ITINERARY:
May 9, 2011: leave Vancouver, B.C. / arrive in Venice on May 10
May 10 - 14: Venice
May 14 - 18: Bevagna UMBRIA
May 18 - 22: Pienza TUSCANY
May 22 - 26: Florence TUSCANY
May 26 - June 2: Rome
June 2: leave Rome / arrive in Vancouver on June 2
It had been an unseasonably cold, wet & dreary spring in Vancouver. In our garden, the camellia bushes & the magnolia tree were late to bloom and the flowers were short-lived when they finally did open. Most of the perennials were showing signs of life with the exception of the ornamental grasses and the wisteria which winds its way up the pergola in our backyard. When we left in early May, the growing season was three, maybe four weeks behind seasonal norms. We looked forward to springtime in Italy and the promise of a colourful floral show!
Next: A Long Travel Day - Are we there yet?
- Anna Akhmatova
From the moment we returned from our first trip to Italy in September 2009, DH & I yearned to go back. There was so much more for us to see, to discover & to experience in Venice, Pienza & the surrounding Val D'Orcia and Florence. We had a desire to explore Umbria and to go to Rome. I also wanted to see the Tuscan landscape in the spring.
Thus, our plans began to take shape.
ITINERARY:
May 9, 2011: leave Vancouver, B.C. / arrive in Venice on May 10
May 10 - 14: Venice
May 14 - 18: Bevagna UMBRIA
May 18 - 22: Pienza TUSCANY
May 22 - 26: Florence TUSCANY
May 26 - June 2: Rome
June 2: leave Rome / arrive in Vancouver on June 2
It had been an unseasonably cold, wet & dreary spring in Vancouver. In our garden, the camellia bushes & the magnolia tree were late to bloom and the flowers were short-lived when they finally did open. Most of the perennials were showing signs of life with the exception of the ornamental grasses and the wisteria which winds its way up the pergola in our backyard. When we left in early May, the growing season was three, maybe four weeks behind seasonal norms. We looked forward to springtime in Italy and the promise of a colourful floral show!
Next: A Long Travel Day - Are we there yet?
Jun 27th, 2011, 02:40 AM
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"Italy is like a dream that keeps on returning for the rest of your life."
You've got that spot on! My relatives try to talk me into returning to canada, and to BC specifically. No thank you! I look forward to hearing about your travels.
You've got that spot on! My relatives try to talk me into returning to canada, and to BC specifically. No thank you! I look forward to hearing about your travels.
Jun 27th, 2011, 12:34 PM
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<b>May 9 - 10: Arriving in Venice</b>
It was our usual long-haul flight experience from Vancouver to Frankfurt: barely palatable food & very little sleep. 9 hours 35 minutes / 5013 miles / 8069 kilometers later we arrived at Frankfurt airport where we had a 5 hour layover. Brutal!
Then, we had just one more 55-minute flight in a virtually empty airplane to Venice Marco Polo airport. It was late afternoon when we landed.
We picked up our checked luggage & headed to the arrivals hall where we arranged for a water taxi to take us to the <b>Locanda Orseolo</b> (www.locandaorseolo.com). We paid (€110), received a voucher & walked the short distance to the dock. We boarded the sleek water taxi and soon we were off! It must have been the excitement of arriving at our destination added to the blast of fresh air & sea spray because suddenly, we weary travelers were wide awake! We approached Venice first on open water and then we entered a small canal which eventually connected to the Grand Canal. We were captivated by the scenes of daily life, commerce & marine activity we passed. High tide prevented a trip directly to the Locanda Orseolo. Instead, we were dropped off just beyond the Rialto Bridge and from there, it was a short 5-minute walk to the place we would call home for the next four nights. It was lovely to be returning to Venice & to the Locanda Orseolo.
Upon our arrival, we were received warmly by Alex. Our superior double room (#25 Pierrot) was large, well-appointed & comfortable. It overlooked the Orseolo Canal. We settled in, freshened up & made our way to the living room for a drink. Here, we met a few other guests of the B&B. We shared travel stories & a little bit about ourselves. It was a pleasant way to unwind. Later, we would go out for dinner with a delightful American couple from Texas.
We went to <b>Rosa Rossa</b> (San Marco, 3709 / closed Wednesday). The conversation was lively, the wine was excellent & our dinners were delicous: spaghetti vongole & a baked gnocchi. We had been told that there was a Johnny Depp story connected to Rosa Rossa. So, at the end of our meal, we asked about it. Evidently, Johnny Depp dined here while filming <i>The Tourist</i> - which I happened to watch during the flight over! In another small room, there's an autographed jacket hanging on the wall, a series of photographs which captured him writing on the ceiling and then there's the writing on the ceiling! We enjoyed the story but it left us wondering about the circumstances which led to this event?
I'm not quite sure how we managed to stay awake as long as we did! Happily, the sleep that eluded us on the airplane soon came!
It was our usual long-haul flight experience from Vancouver to Frankfurt: barely palatable food & very little sleep. 9 hours 35 minutes / 5013 miles / 8069 kilometers later we arrived at Frankfurt airport where we had a 5 hour layover. Brutal!
Then, we had just one more 55-minute flight in a virtually empty airplane to Venice Marco Polo airport. It was late afternoon when we landed.
We picked up our checked luggage & headed to the arrivals hall where we arranged for a water taxi to take us to the <b>Locanda Orseolo</b> (www.locandaorseolo.com). We paid (€110), received a voucher & walked the short distance to the dock. We boarded the sleek water taxi and soon we were off! It must have been the excitement of arriving at our destination added to the blast of fresh air & sea spray because suddenly, we weary travelers were wide awake! We approached Venice first on open water and then we entered a small canal which eventually connected to the Grand Canal. We were captivated by the scenes of daily life, commerce & marine activity we passed. High tide prevented a trip directly to the Locanda Orseolo. Instead, we were dropped off just beyond the Rialto Bridge and from there, it was a short 5-minute walk to the place we would call home for the next four nights. It was lovely to be returning to Venice & to the Locanda Orseolo.
Upon our arrival, we were received warmly by Alex. Our superior double room (#25 Pierrot) was large, well-appointed & comfortable. It overlooked the Orseolo Canal. We settled in, freshened up & made our way to the living room for a drink. Here, we met a few other guests of the B&B. We shared travel stories & a little bit about ourselves. It was a pleasant way to unwind. Later, we would go out for dinner with a delightful American couple from Texas.
We went to <b>Rosa Rossa</b> (San Marco, 3709 / closed Wednesday). The conversation was lively, the wine was excellent & our dinners were delicous: spaghetti vongole & a baked gnocchi. We had been told that there was a Johnny Depp story connected to Rosa Rossa. So, at the end of our meal, we asked about it. Evidently, Johnny Depp dined here while filming <i>The Tourist</i> - which I happened to watch during the flight over! In another small room, there's an autographed jacket hanging on the wall, a series of photographs which captured him writing on the ceiling and then there's the writing on the ceiling! We enjoyed the story but it left us wondering about the circumstances which led to this event?
I'm not quite sure how we managed to stay awake as long as we did! Happily, the sleep that eluded us on the airplane soon came!
Jun 27th, 2011, 03:45 PM
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<b>Wednesday, May 11th</b>
We enjoyed a beautiful breakfast ... and I mean beautiful! In addition to the sumptuous buffet, we were offered hot breakfast items. I had a strawbery crepe which was artfully plated. Not only was it delicious, it was also photo-worthy!
This morning we stepped out into a summer-like day - perfect for our walk through <b>Sestiere de Castello</b>! From St. Mark's Square, we walked along Riva Degli Schiavoni adjacent to the busy Canale di San Marco. We passed the elegant <b>Hotel Danieli</b> and a large number of tourists going the other way! We paused at Rio Dei Gregi to check out the leaning campanile of <b>San Giorgio de Gregi</b>. Across the canal, we could see the island of <b>San Giorgio Maggiore</b> and the lovely white church with its tall, straight bell tower!
It was in the neighbourhood of <b>Sant'Elena</b> where we saw locals walking their dogs through the park; chatting with friends while sitting on a shady bench or sprawled out on a seat in the sunshine reading a book! School children played happily on the playground nearby. It was a peaceful area, yet vibrant & full of life! We saw few tourists until we came to <b>Via Giuseppe Garibaldi</b>, a broad street lined with shops & restaurants. It was here that we stopped to buy a bottle of sunscreen as the day became more sunny & warm!
We contined to the <b>Arsenale</b> which is a former shipyard and is still is partly used as a naval base. There was evidence of an art installation being put up between the two towers which mark the water entrance into Darsena Arsenale Vecchio. We assumed it was for Venice's Biennale.
Along the way, we visited a few churches. <b>Basilica Santi Giovanni e Paolo</b> is an impressive 14th C Gothic church which is known as Venice's Pantheon. It houses monuments to no fewer than 25 doges! <b>Santa Maria dei Miracoli</b> (technically in Cannaregio but in the vicinity of the other churches mentioned here) is an early Renaissance gem located on a small square alongside a canal. Its pretty interior is decorated with pink, white & gray marble. We also went into <b>Santa Maria Fromosa</b> located on a large square of the same name. There were entrance fees to all and we wondered whether we should have purchased the Chorus Pass (16 churches for €10).
It was on Campo SS Giovani e Paolo where we stopped for a quick but unexciting lunch.
Eventually, we found our way back to St. Mark's Square with its throngs of visitors! We were glad to enter our own peaceful Campo San Gallo & the Locanda Orseolo.
Tonight we had dinner reservations at <b>Vini da Gigio</b> (www.vinidagigio.com) in Cannaregio. It's leisurely dining in a restaurant that is lively & bustling! It serves traditional Venetian cuisine. We enjoyed: prosciutto & melon, osso bucco with polenta & potatoes / turbot with sauteed aritchokes & potatoes, cinnamon creme with prunes / chocolate semifreddo with wild strawberries and a bottle of Montepulciano Nobile. Our dinners were superb!
During our meal, an Italian gentleman was seated at the table next to us. We watched as he ate course after course and drank an entire bottle of white wine! But, he had no dessert! Soon, we found ourselves engaged in a conversation together. It began with the usual innocuous topics of strangers but food & Italian culture soon became the central topic. We learned that he is a pastry chef with a shop in Noto, Italy near Sicily. He spoke passionately about his philosophy & approaches to food and about his craft. We were anxious to learn more & he was happy to tell us! He extended the evening with an offering of grappa - the most delicious, smooth (apricot) grappa! What began as a wonderful dinner turned out to be a most amazing, memorable night!
We enjoyed a beautiful breakfast ... and I mean beautiful! In addition to the sumptuous buffet, we were offered hot breakfast items. I had a strawbery crepe which was artfully plated. Not only was it delicious, it was also photo-worthy!
This morning we stepped out into a summer-like day - perfect for our walk through <b>Sestiere de Castello</b>! From St. Mark's Square, we walked along Riva Degli Schiavoni adjacent to the busy Canale di San Marco. We passed the elegant <b>Hotel Danieli</b> and a large number of tourists going the other way! We paused at Rio Dei Gregi to check out the leaning campanile of <b>San Giorgio de Gregi</b>. Across the canal, we could see the island of <b>San Giorgio Maggiore</b> and the lovely white church with its tall, straight bell tower!
It was in the neighbourhood of <b>Sant'Elena</b> where we saw locals walking their dogs through the park; chatting with friends while sitting on a shady bench or sprawled out on a seat in the sunshine reading a book! School children played happily on the playground nearby. It was a peaceful area, yet vibrant & full of life! We saw few tourists until we came to <b>Via Giuseppe Garibaldi</b>, a broad street lined with shops & restaurants. It was here that we stopped to buy a bottle of sunscreen as the day became more sunny & warm!
We contined to the <b>Arsenale</b> which is a former shipyard and is still is partly used as a naval base. There was evidence of an art installation being put up between the two towers which mark the water entrance into Darsena Arsenale Vecchio. We assumed it was for Venice's Biennale.
Along the way, we visited a few churches. <b>Basilica Santi Giovanni e Paolo</b> is an impressive 14th C Gothic church which is known as Venice's Pantheon. It houses monuments to no fewer than 25 doges! <b>Santa Maria dei Miracoli</b> (technically in Cannaregio but in the vicinity of the other churches mentioned here) is an early Renaissance gem located on a small square alongside a canal. Its pretty interior is decorated with pink, white & gray marble. We also went into <b>Santa Maria Fromosa</b> located on a large square of the same name. There were entrance fees to all and we wondered whether we should have purchased the Chorus Pass (16 churches for €10).
It was on Campo SS Giovani e Paolo where we stopped for a quick but unexciting lunch.
Eventually, we found our way back to St. Mark's Square with its throngs of visitors! We were glad to enter our own peaceful Campo San Gallo & the Locanda Orseolo.
Tonight we had dinner reservations at <b>Vini da Gigio</b> (www.vinidagigio.com) in Cannaregio. It's leisurely dining in a restaurant that is lively & bustling! It serves traditional Venetian cuisine. We enjoyed: prosciutto & melon, osso bucco with polenta & potatoes / turbot with sauteed aritchokes & potatoes, cinnamon creme with prunes / chocolate semifreddo with wild strawberries and a bottle of Montepulciano Nobile. Our dinners were superb!
During our meal, an Italian gentleman was seated at the table next to us. We watched as he ate course after course and drank an entire bottle of white wine! But, he had no dessert! Soon, we found ourselves engaged in a conversation together. It began with the usual innocuous topics of strangers but food & Italian culture soon became the central topic. We learned that he is a pastry chef with a shop in Noto, Italy near Sicily. He spoke passionately about his philosophy & approaches to food and about his craft. We were anxious to learn more & he was happy to tell us! He extended the evening with an offering of grappa - the most delicious, smooth (apricot) grappa! What began as a wonderful dinner turned out to be a most amazing, memorable night!
Jun 27th, 2011, 07:36 PM
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Correction: It should read <i>"Wed May 11th - We were glad to enter our own peaceful <b>Corte Zorzi</b> & the Locanda Orseolo."</i>
The Locanda Orseolo is located on <b>Corte Zorzi</b> not on Campo San Gallo. Sorry!
The Locanda Orseolo is located on <b>Corte Zorzi</b> not on Campo San Gallo. Sorry!
Jun 27th, 2011, 08:11 PM
#10
I'm reading! I'm enjoying! Noto is in Sicily. Correcting merely because if I met a pastry-maker with a chocolate shop in one of the Sicilian Baroque towns, you can bet I'd put that as a stop on my next Italian vacation. Just a thought.
Jun 27th, 2011, 11:36 PM
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This is a good review right here. You showed the great things that happened during your vacation. I commend you for this really great review and it's nice to see and know that you had a great time.
Jun 28th, 2011, 07:55 AM
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I'm reading too, looking forward to the next installment.
I'm considering getting the Chorus Pass myself for out trip in October, but didn't know if it would be worth it for our 3 night stay. I'll be interested to see how many churches you make it to and if you think it would have been worthwhile.
Thank you for taking the time to report.
CindyP.
I'm considering getting the Chorus Pass myself for out trip in October, but didn't know if it would be worth it for our 3 night stay. I'll be interested to see how many churches you make it to and if you think it would have been worthwhile.
Thank you for taking the time to report.
CindyP.
Jun 28th, 2011, 09:04 AM
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Leely2: Thanks for the correction! You can bet if we make it to Sicily, we'll be seeking out the bake shop/cafe in Noto!
Austen, Janet & Cindy: September/October is a wonderful time to be in Venice or traveling in Italy! When we were there in 2009, the weather was perfect - especially in September, summer-like but not too hot - and the crowds were not so intense. Hope you all have great trips!
Austen, Janet & Cindy: September/October is a wonderful time to be in Venice or traveling in Italy! When we were there in 2009, the weather was perfect - especially in September, summer-like but not too hot - and the crowds were not so intense. Hope you all have great trips!
Jun 28th, 2011, 09:18 AM
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Hi! Cindy: Picking up a Chorus Pass could be worth it, especially if it's your first trip to Venice. Check out a website like the one below to see the list of churches. The average entrance ticket is about €3 so you would have to visit 4 churches to make it pay. It is possible that not all the churches you will want to see will be covered by the Chorus Pass.
www.chorusvenezia.org
Hope this helps!
www.chorusvenezia.org
Hope this helps!
Jun 28th, 2011, 01:37 PM
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<b>Thursday, May 12th</b>
As exciting as it is to travel to a new destination, there are rewards for returning to a place where you've been before. For us, it meant that we had already visited many of the important sights in Venice and now, we were free to explore the city in a different way. Our time was more relaxed & less intense and our days were filled with new & sometimes familiar experiences!
Today was all about boat rides! We purchased our 48-hour vaporetto passes at the Rialto stop. We walked over to the Fondamente Nove where we activated our passes before boarding the LN boat to <b>Burano</b>.
On Burano, we encountered brightly coloured buildings; multiple opportunities to buy lace garments & tablecloths; and groups of school children with their teachers on their own tour of the island! We noticed that Burano has its own church with a leaning bell tower!
Next, we were off to <b>Murano</b> to have lunch at <b>Busa Alla Torre Da Lele</b> on Campo San Stefano. We asked for a shady table but the sun gradually crept beyond the edge of the market umbrella. Fortunately, it was a quick pasta lunch for us!
Shopping was on our agenda this afternoon, We found ourselves popping in & out of glass shops along Fondamente D. Manin looking for small plates for gifts and a necklace for me. I saw many beautiful things but nothing appealed to me. The necklaces were looking very much like the ones I bought during our last trip ... until we crossed a bridge. On the other side of the canal, I was drawn to the window display at <b>Domus Vetri D'Arte</b> (Fondamente dei Vetrai, 82). At last, I was looking at some unique pieces of jewelry! It did not take me long to decide on a necklace of black, white & clear blown glass beads of varying sizes, shapes & designs strung together with silver chain. I also bought coordinating earrings. My quest for glass plates would have to continue.
I love the way merchants wrap purchases like little gifts! It is curious though that I was rarely, if ever, given a store receipt when I paid in cash! My shopping experience on Murano was no different.
We took the LN vaporetto from Murano back to Venice. We stood up all the way so that we could see where we had walked the day before & watch our approach to the San Zaccaria stop near St. Mark's Square.
Tonight the evening air was chilled by cool breezes. We were seated outside on the terrace at <b>Acquapazza</b> (www.veniceacquapazza.it) on Campo Sant'Angelo. It was good to have reservations. This place was filling up! Here we had: a caprese salad and a seafood risotto of generous proportions. The €10 coperto (for two) included a small plate of bruschetta (tomato, eggplant), lemon cake for dessert & glasses of chilled limoncello. While the food was FANTASTIC, the service was efficient, bordering on brusque. There was one grumpy server who treated everyone with equal disdain! So, we left the restaurant feeling full but disappointed by our dining experience.
We could hear the dueling bands play as we neared St. Mark's Square. Our pace seems to slow down & we always take each other's hand whenever we enter the square at night. It truly is a magical place to linger after dark!
As exciting as it is to travel to a new destination, there are rewards for returning to a place where you've been before. For us, it meant that we had already visited many of the important sights in Venice and now, we were free to explore the city in a different way. Our time was more relaxed & less intense and our days were filled with new & sometimes familiar experiences!
Today was all about boat rides! We purchased our 48-hour vaporetto passes at the Rialto stop. We walked over to the Fondamente Nove where we activated our passes before boarding the LN boat to <b>Burano</b>.
On Burano, we encountered brightly coloured buildings; multiple opportunities to buy lace garments & tablecloths; and groups of school children with their teachers on their own tour of the island! We noticed that Burano has its own church with a leaning bell tower!
Next, we were off to <b>Murano</b> to have lunch at <b>Busa Alla Torre Da Lele</b> on Campo San Stefano. We asked for a shady table but the sun gradually crept beyond the edge of the market umbrella. Fortunately, it was a quick pasta lunch for us!
Shopping was on our agenda this afternoon, We found ourselves popping in & out of glass shops along Fondamente D. Manin looking for small plates for gifts and a necklace for me. I saw many beautiful things but nothing appealed to me. The necklaces were looking very much like the ones I bought during our last trip ... until we crossed a bridge. On the other side of the canal, I was drawn to the window display at <b>Domus Vetri D'Arte</b> (Fondamente dei Vetrai, 82). At last, I was looking at some unique pieces of jewelry! It did not take me long to decide on a necklace of black, white & clear blown glass beads of varying sizes, shapes & designs strung together with silver chain. I also bought coordinating earrings. My quest for glass plates would have to continue.
I love the way merchants wrap purchases like little gifts! It is curious though that I was rarely, if ever, given a store receipt when I paid in cash! My shopping experience on Murano was no different.
We took the LN vaporetto from Murano back to Venice. We stood up all the way so that we could see where we had walked the day before & watch our approach to the San Zaccaria stop near St. Mark's Square.
Tonight the evening air was chilled by cool breezes. We were seated outside on the terrace at <b>Acquapazza</b> (www.veniceacquapazza.it) on Campo Sant'Angelo. It was good to have reservations. This place was filling up! Here we had: a caprese salad and a seafood risotto of generous proportions. The €10 coperto (for two) included a small plate of bruschetta (tomato, eggplant), lemon cake for dessert & glasses of chilled limoncello. While the food was FANTASTIC, the service was efficient, bordering on brusque. There was one grumpy server who treated everyone with equal disdain! So, we left the restaurant feeling full but disappointed by our dining experience.
We could hear the dueling bands play as we neared St. Mark's Square. Our pace seems to slow down & we always take each other's hand whenever we enter the square at night. It truly is a magical place to linger after dark!
Jun 28th, 2011, 06:50 PM
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2010, I am reliving my trip to Italy just this past spring. I've been negligent in getting my trip report completed. You've inspired me to finish it quickly. 
I am enjoying your report. Can't wait to read more!
I am enjoying your report. Can't wait to read more!
Jun 28th, 2011, 09:25 PM
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<b>Friday, May 13th</b>
After passing through the iron gates off Corte Zorzi, we turned left and headed towards <b>Sestiere Cannaregio</b>. We walked along quiet streets & crossed many bridges on our way to <b>Campo di Ghetto Nuovo</b>.
Campo di ghetto Nuovo is a large square with tall, leafy deciduous trees. Benches are placed in the shade of the trees and they were all occupied this morning. There is a tranquil, serene atmosphere here. A memorial which consists of 7 bas-relief wall plaques in bronze on the theme of the Holocaust was a somber reminder of a dark time in history. We quietly moved on.
At Ponte D. Scalzi just before the train station, we crossed over the Grand Canal to <b>Santa Croce</b>. We consulted our map frequently as we made our way to the <b>Church of San Rocco</b>. Inside, we found breath-taking paintings by Tintoretto! Outside, men were painting the exterior of the church. DH was most interested in the Monetti man-lift parked out front! Although retired for many years, he couldn't resist checking out this innovative piece of equipment & thinking how useful it would have been for his work crews needing to reach tall, tight places! It was a busman's holiday after all!
We had a fine pizza lunch at <b>Ai Sportivi</b> on Campo Santa Margherita.
Instead of going to Ca'Rezzonico, we decided to continue our walk through the <b>Dorsoduro</b>. We made a quick stop at Venice's most famous gondola repair & construction yard on Rio San Trovaso. From across the canal, we watched two men working on gondolas. I don't know why we were surprised to see that gondolas are flat-bottom boats! We learned something new today!
At the southern most entrance to the Grand Canal sits the baroque <b>Church of Santa Maria delle Salute</b>. It's huge, ornate & impressive with views across the canal toward St. Mark's Square, San Giorgio Maggiore & the Giudecca. Cooling breezes blew steadily which made this a perfect place to sit & watch life on the canal float by!
We made our way back to the locanda. We stopped in the bar for a cold drink and we chatted with Barbara, the charming owner & Alex. What fun!
Here, I must comment on the delightful staff at the Locanda Orseolo: Barbara, Alex, Gigi, Igor & Chiara. They are lovely hosts who so effortlessly made us feel like treasured guests in their 'home'. Everything was done to assure our comfort & enjoyment! Over the course of our stay, we had memorable encounters with each of them! And that's the main reason we returned here again!
Tonight we went to <b>A Beccafico</b> (www.abeccafico.com) on Campo Santo Stefano. We were seated outside at a table in the front corner (facing outward) where we could watch the evening activity on the square! Our servers were excellent: professional, helpful (translating the menu, recommending dishes ...) & personable - a perfect balance!
They served Sicilian specialties & wines. We had: an aperitivo of prosecco + mango juice with creme de menthe, tomato & buffalo mozzarella salad / bruschetta with tomatoes, a bottle of Sicilian white wine, veal marsala with polenta & fennel / pasta (a long penne) with swordfish & eggplant in a light tomato sauce, a digestivo of a Sicilian sweet wine or limoncello or both(!) and pear with ricotta cheese on a cake base / creme with lemon cake. Our meals were superb & the beverages were deliciously amazing! What more can I say?
It's our last night in Venice.
Next: Leaving for Bevagna
After passing through the iron gates off Corte Zorzi, we turned left and headed towards <b>Sestiere Cannaregio</b>. We walked along quiet streets & crossed many bridges on our way to <b>Campo di Ghetto Nuovo</b>.
Campo di ghetto Nuovo is a large square with tall, leafy deciduous trees. Benches are placed in the shade of the trees and they were all occupied this morning. There is a tranquil, serene atmosphere here. A memorial which consists of 7 bas-relief wall plaques in bronze on the theme of the Holocaust was a somber reminder of a dark time in history. We quietly moved on.
At Ponte D. Scalzi just before the train station, we crossed over the Grand Canal to <b>Santa Croce</b>. We consulted our map frequently as we made our way to the <b>Church of San Rocco</b>. Inside, we found breath-taking paintings by Tintoretto! Outside, men were painting the exterior of the church. DH was most interested in the Monetti man-lift parked out front! Although retired for many years, he couldn't resist checking out this innovative piece of equipment & thinking how useful it would have been for his work crews needing to reach tall, tight places! It was a busman's holiday after all!
We had a fine pizza lunch at <b>Ai Sportivi</b> on Campo Santa Margherita.
Instead of going to Ca'Rezzonico, we decided to continue our walk through the <b>Dorsoduro</b>. We made a quick stop at Venice's most famous gondola repair & construction yard on Rio San Trovaso. From across the canal, we watched two men working on gondolas. I don't know why we were surprised to see that gondolas are flat-bottom boats! We learned something new today!
At the southern most entrance to the Grand Canal sits the baroque <b>Church of Santa Maria delle Salute</b>. It's huge, ornate & impressive with views across the canal toward St. Mark's Square, San Giorgio Maggiore & the Giudecca. Cooling breezes blew steadily which made this a perfect place to sit & watch life on the canal float by!
We made our way back to the locanda. We stopped in the bar for a cold drink and we chatted with Barbara, the charming owner & Alex. What fun!
Here, I must comment on the delightful staff at the Locanda Orseolo: Barbara, Alex, Gigi, Igor & Chiara. They are lovely hosts who so effortlessly made us feel like treasured guests in their 'home'. Everything was done to assure our comfort & enjoyment! Over the course of our stay, we had memorable encounters with each of them! And that's the main reason we returned here again!
Tonight we went to <b>A Beccafico</b> (www.abeccafico.com) on Campo Santo Stefano. We were seated outside at a table in the front corner (facing outward) where we could watch the evening activity on the square! Our servers were excellent: professional, helpful (translating the menu, recommending dishes ...) & personable - a perfect balance!
They served Sicilian specialties & wines. We had: an aperitivo of prosecco + mango juice with creme de menthe, tomato & buffalo mozzarella salad / bruschetta with tomatoes, a bottle of Sicilian white wine, veal marsala with polenta & fennel / pasta (a long penne) with swordfish & eggplant in a light tomato sauce, a digestivo of a Sicilian sweet wine or limoncello or both(!) and pear with ricotta cheese on a cake base / creme with lemon cake. Our meals were superb & the beverages were deliciously amazing! What more can I say?
It's our last night in Venice.
Next: Leaving for Bevagna
