a Roma e Napoli sola
Dec 28th, 2006, 11:42 AM
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a Roma e Napoli sola
The end of Novemer I spent two lovely weeks in Rome and Naples. I traveled alone (a woman age 37) and had a great time.
Before I get to the trip report proper, I will answer the questions I know burn most brightly for Fodories:
1)I did not wear white shoes.
2)I did not wear a money belt, neck safe or otherwise conceal my valuables .
3) I was not scammed, pickpocketed, hassled, annoyed or ripped off.
Now on with the report:
Day One: I flew from my tiney hometown in Eastern Oregon to Portland, Oregon then on to Chicago. On the Chicago to Franfurt leg of the trip, an elderly Russian man had a heart attack so we had to dump fuel and make an unscheduled landing in Goose Bay Newfoundland. They kept telling us he would be fine, but they don't usually pull the sheet over your head if you are getting well soon. After that delay, Lufthansa rebooked me and I got to Rome just an hour late. Context Rome arranged a car and driver for me. My mom made a quick call to them to explain the delay and they got him resceduled.
I stayed at Hotel Columbus on Via della Concilazione near St. Peter's Square. I know most folks don't like this neighborhood, but I liked the quiet at night and the transprtation connections were good. My room was small and had the smallest shower I have ever seen, but it was very clean and the bed and pillows were comfortable. They also had enormous fluffy towels. The service was good and friendly. The breakfast was very good. The gentlemen at reception did worry that I didn't always wear a coat since it was November, but since it was 60 out I really didn't need one.
The first night I arrived about 7:00 so I just unpacked, and turned in early so I'd be up in time for my 10:00 am tour of Trastevere and the Jewish Ghetto .
I'll post Day Two later.
Before I get to the trip report proper, I will answer the questions I know burn most brightly for Fodories:
1)I did not wear white shoes.
2)I did not wear a money belt, neck safe or otherwise conceal my valuables .
3) I was not scammed, pickpocketed, hassled, annoyed or ripped off.
Now on with the report:
Day One: I flew from my tiney hometown in Eastern Oregon to Portland, Oregon then on to Chicago. On the Chicago to Franfurt leg of the trip, an elderly Russian man had a heart attack so we had to dump fuel and make an unscheduled landing in Goose Bay Newfoundland. They kept telling us he would be fine, but they don't usually pull the sheet over your head if you are getting well soon. After that delay, Lufthansa rebooked me and I got to Rome just an hour late. Context Rome arranged a car and driver for me. My mom made a quick call to them to explain the delay and they got him resceduled.
I stayed at Hotel Columbus on Via della Concilazione near St. Peter's Square. I know most folks don't like this neighborhood, but I liked the quiet at night and the transprtation connections were good. My room was small and had the smallest shower I have ever seen, but it was very clean and the bed and pillows were comfortable. They also had enormous fluffy towels. The service was good and friendly. The breakfast was very good. The gentlemen at reception did worry that I didn't always wear a coat since it was November, but since it was 60 out I really didn't need one.
The first night I arrived about 7:00 so I just unpacked, and turned in early so I'd be up in time for my 10:00 am tour of Trastevere and the Jewish Ghetto .
I'll post Day Two later.
Dec 28th, 2006, 11:56 AM
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"They kept telling us he would be fine, but they don't usually pull the sheet over your head if you are getting well soon." That is one of the best lines I have read here in a report. Sorry for the man though.
Can't wait to read more of your report!
Can't wait to read more of your report!
Dec 28th, 2006, 09:09 PM
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Day Two- I booked a tour of Trastevere and the Jewish Ghetto through Context Tours. I actually chose it just on the basis of being the morning after I arrived but not too early so I could get over my jet lag. I really enjoyed it. The docent was a graduate student from Isreal.
We began in the Ghetto and talked about the history of Jews in Rome. I found it very interesting that they have their own tradtion and are neither Sepphardic nor Ashenzanic. The first Jews came prior to the Diaspora and therefore had their own traditions related to having worshipped in the Temple in Jerusalem. We continued to the Jewish Museum and Synagogue. We crossed the Tiber and visited Santa Cecilia which which is chrch built on top of houses dating from early AD centuries. I love the way Rome has layer upon layer of history. We ended up at Santa Maria in Trastevere.
I had lunch in a litle trattoria and then returned to the Jewish Museum for a more in depth look. After the museum, I took a bus to Termini and then the metro back to the Vatican area. This was mostly in the way of orienting myself.
As I walked back to the hotel from the metro station, I stopped for a while in St. Peter's Square to watch the people. After a break I headed down Via Conzilazione. There were a bunch of vendors selling things so I was in my determined-walking-no-eye-contact mode when suddenly a man swept down on me. I was so shocked, but then looked up and realized it was my friend Jaime who works in my favorite Mexican restaurant at home. Neither of us knew the other would be in Rome - quite amazing to run into each other.
After a break at the hotel, I had dinner at Tre Pupazzi just across the way on Pio Borgo. It was a good meal -gnocchi and panna cotta. I picked it based on the large number of priests and nuns eating there. They seemed to have good taste.
I headed back to the hotel ready to sleep off the end of my jet lag and be up early to visit the Vatican on Friday morning.
We began in the Ghetto and talked about the history of Jews in Rome. I found it very interesting that they have their own tradtion and are neither Sepphardic nor Ashenzanic. The first Jews came prior to the Diaspora and therefore had their own traditions related to having worshipped in the Temple in Jerusalem. We continued to the Jewish Museum and Synagogue. We crossed the Tiber and visited Santa Cecilia which which is chrch built on top of houses dating from early AD centuries. I love the way Rome has layer upon layer of history. We ended up at Santa Maria in Trastevere.
I had lunch in a litle trattoria and then returned to the Jewish Museum for a more in depth look. After the museum, I took a bus to Termini and then the metro back to the Vatican area. This was mostly in the way of orienting myself.
As I walked back to the hotel from the metro station, I stopped for a while in St. Peter's Square to watch the people. After a break I headed down Via Conzilazione. There were a bunch of vendors selling things so I was in my determined-walking-no-eye-contact mode when suddenly a man swept down on me. I was so shocked, but then looked up and realized it was my friend Jaime who works in my favorite Mexican restaurant at home. Neither of us knew the other would be in Rome - quite amazing to run into each other.
After a break at the hotel, I had dinner at Tre Pupazzi just across the way on Pio Borgo. It was a good meal -gnocchi and panna cotta. I picked it based on the large number of priests and nuns eating there. They seemed to have good taste.
I headed back to the hotel ready to sleep off the end of my jet lag and be up early to visit the Vatican on Friday morning.
Dec 28th, 2006, 09:49 PM
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< They kept telling us he would be fine, but they don't usually pull the sheet over your head if you are getting well soon. >
What a beginning - yikes! Sounds like the rest of the trip is a little less dramatic. Looking forward to more . . .
What a beginning - yikes! Sounds like the rest of the trip is a little less dramatic. Looking forward to more . . .
Dec 29th, 2006, 12:58 PM
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Sorry I'm not posting this very quickly. I've been trying to get home from Las Vegas. It took us 2.5 days to get there and 2 days to get back! At long last we have arrived. (Of course that trip belongs on a different forum!)
Day Three - The Vatican and the National Museum I'll post it as soon as I get the bags unpacked and the laundry going.
Day Three - The Vatican and the National Museum I'll post it as soon as I get the bags unpacked and the laundry going.
Dec 29th, 2006, 01:55 PM
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Oh t2t, I was on a flight once from Mexico and a male passenger had a heart attack..ghastly and sad for him and everyone. I don't think he lived from what I heard in the Immigration/custom area. No white sheet though. But at least the dear man had his vacation.
Italians, all that I know dress for the season, not the weather, lol. One must keep in style, si?
Italians, all that I know dress for the season, not the weather, lol. One must keep in style, si?
Dec 29th, 2006, 03:09 PM
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Day Three - I got up early to take a tour of the Vatican. This tour was also arranged by Context Rome.
I used Context for a number of tours and was very pleased. They are not cheap, but for me, traveling alone, they offered the right balance of small groups and itineraries. I enjoyed all of the docents and most of the folks I toured with (I'll get to the one exception on Day 5.)
We met across the street from the Vatican Museums and got in line as soon as everyone arrived. The docent was an Art Historian who specializes in Rennaisance portraits of couples. In line, she gave us some orientation to the museum and the history of the Vatican. The emphasis of this tour is the art, but Context also offers a Vatican Seminar focusing more on history.
In the museum, we began in the Pinoteca. Context encourages their docents to focus on their areas of expertise so of course we looked at paintings. We continued through the museum particularly looking at the Raphael rooms. We continued on to the Sistine Chapel. After some discussion she gave time to admire on our own.
I had visited the Sistine once before and I have to admit I was underwhelmed. This time I enjoyed it much more. I think mostly because it was less crowded and I was less jet lagged.
We continued to St. Peter's and toured there. The docent had done a great job of pointing out things in the museum which were part of the Old St. Peter's and then comparing them to new St. Peter's. She also pointed out the places scholars are permitted to go to research.
At the end of each Context Tour, the docents check where everyone is going next and offer directions if necessary. They also will offer restaurant advice if you want it.
I grabbed a quick panini and went back to the hotel for a break. After reading a bit and putting my feet up, I headed to the National Museum near Termini Station. I wandered admiring the classical statues. The beatifully perserved frescoes give an idea of what Roman houses must have been like. It was late in the day so the museum was delightfully deserted. The The Discus Thrower is here as well as many other famous works.
The danger in Rome is of course one becomes overwhelmed by materpieces. I tried to break up my touring enough that I didn't become blase. I also remind myself that Rome isn't going away. I can return to look again.
I visted a farmacia for blister pads and grabbed pizza al taglio and a coke for dinner. I enjoyed my books, worked on my journal and enjoyed a low key evening.
Day Four - I Scavi - one of the highlights of my trip!
I got up late. I went to the ATM and then shopped a bit around the hotel. I found great 1 Euro bookmark calendars to take to my co workers as gifts. I had lunch at the somewhat overpriced, but infinitely conveniet Cafe Universal near the hotel.
The Scavi have been well discussed here so I won't go into detail, but just give my thoughts. I loved the way the floor slopes so you still have the sensation of walking up the 3rd century hill through the cemetary. The sense of histroy was overwhelming. Peter and Constantine were here along with hundreds of other. This is why I travel!
Dinner was back at the Tre Pupazzi. I had a lovely Roman style 4 cheese pizza.
Coming soon - Ancient Rome - the Forum and Palatine.
I used Context for a number of tours and was very pleased. They are not cheap, but for me, traveling alone, they offered the right balance of small groups and itineraries. I enjoyed all of the docents and most of the folks I toured with (I'll get to the one exception on Day 5.)
We met across the street from the Vatican Museums and got in line as soon as everyone arrived. The docent was an Art Historian who specializes in Rennaisance portraits of couples. In line, she gave us some orientation to the museum and the history of the Vatican. The emphasis of this tour is the art, but Context also offers a Vatican Seminar focusing more on history.
In the museum, we began in the Pinoteca. Context encourages their docents to focus on their areas of expertise so of course we looked at paintings. We continued through the museum particularly looking at the Raphael rooms. We continued on to the Sistine Chapel. After some discussion she gave time to admire on our own.
I had visited the Sistine once before and I have to admit I was underwhelmed. This time I enjoyed it much more. I think mostly because it was less crowded and I was less jet lagged.
We continued to St. Peter's and toured there. The docent had done a great job of pointing out things in the museum which were part of the Old St. Peter's and then comparing them to new St. Peter's. She also pointed out the places scholars are permitted to go to research.
At the end of each Context Tour, the docents check where everyone is going next and offer directions if necessary. They also will offer restaurant advice if you want it.
I grabbed a quick panini and went back to the hotel for a break. After reading a bit and putting my feet up, I headed to the National Museum near Termini Station. I wandered admiring the classical statues. The beatifully perserved frescoes give an idea of what Roman houses must have been like. It was late in the day so the museum was delightfully deserted. The The Discus Thrower is here as well as many other famous works.
The danger in Rome is of course one becomes overwhelmed by materpieces. I tried to break up my touring enough that I didn't become blase. I also remind myself that Rome isn't going away. I can return to look again.
I visted a farmacia for blister pads and grabbed pizza al taglio and a coke for dinner. I enjoyed my books, worked on my journal and enjoyed a low key evening.
Day Four - I Scavi - one of the highlights of my trip!
I got up late. I went to the ATM and then shopped a bit around the hotel. I found great 1 Euro bookmark calendars to take to my co workers as gifts. I had lunch at the somewhat overpriced, but infinitely conveniet Cafe Universal near the hotel.
The Scavi have been well discussed here so I won't go into detail, but just give my thoughts. I loved the way the floor slopes so you still have the sensation of walking up the 3rd century hill through the cemetary. The sense of histroy was overwhelming. Peter and Constantine were here along with hundreds of other. This is why I travel!
Dinner was back at the Tre Pupazzi. I had a lovely Roman style 4 cheese pizza.
Coming soon - Ancient Rome - the Forum and Palatine.
Dec 30th, 2006, 05:10 PM
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Day Five
Ancient Rome. I met my Context group at the Palatine Hill. The docent, Manu, was great. The group was less great. I was really looking forward to these sights, but my memory of them is a little clouded by the group I was with.
There was a couple who live in Italy and the woman of the couple aleady knew everything about everything. She either nodded her head vigorously or shook her head at everything the docent said. The other three in the group were engineers from California. The married engineers were ok, but their frind was a caution. He must be intelligent because he works as an engineer, but he acted like he knew absolutely nothing. He first argued about the umbrella pines and said they could not be natural. He knew nothing about history and spent most of the tour asking for directions to the Rome Time Elevator. He then kept pointing out that the sights must not really be ancient because he ancient Romans wouldn't have had metal scaffolding.
Ok - venting over. I will return to the sights.
I think what impressed me most was the Senate House. I have read extensively about it and always imagined it much larger. Stepping inside I really could imagine Cicero declaiming here with a crowd pressed to the doors. The Forum and Colosseum were both mobbed with people but since we had tickets from the Palatine we were able to bypass the lines.
After the tour concluded at the Colosseum I walked up towards St. Clements. The church was closed for the mid day break so I went to a restaurant called i Clemetini across the street. I picked this spot for lunch since it was filled with Italian families having lunch. It was delicious - zucchini flowers, ravioli and roast pork.
After lunch I went back to the Coloseum for a more leisurely look and to buy some postcards. I wandered back through the Forum and up the hill to the Capitoline Museums.
If I were doing it again, I would have visited the Capitoline Museums another day. I was pretty worn out and I really didn't appreciate the art as much as I might have. I did have a lovely break at the roof top cafe while the sun set. I'll definitely return to this museum next time.
By the end of today I was on monument and masterppiece overload. I had planned to return to the Vatican Museums on Monday, but I decided I needed a vacation from my vacation.
Day Six
After sleeping in, I decided to try the 110 Tram around town. It left from just across the street so I went over and caught it. It offers a nice overview of the sights and you can hop on and off. I rode to Piazza Agusto and got off for lunch.
I had lunch at 'Gusto on the piazza just across from the bus stop. I loved this resaurant. They have pizza, a lunch buffet, a quieter restaurant upstairs and a wine bar. I had pizza and it was delicious and the atmosphere was great. I was back by here on the next Sunday and it was packed. On Sundays they seem to have live music and brunch.
I continued on the 110 back to the hotel. Stangely, when it loops back to Termini, the buses stop for 40 minutes so you have to change buses. On the second bus, the narration was completely different a woman not a man and not as complete. I don't know if one bus was newer than the other or what.
After a break at the hotel, I took the bus across the river and went to the Insalata Ricca for dinner. I liked this chain place. They have big salads and everything was very fresh. It was early (for Italians) but there was a lovely group of French folks there. We bonded over the translation of the word pineapple.
The break from intensive sightseeing was good. I was regrouped and ready to go the next day to see the sights of Classical Rome.
Ancient Rome. I met my Context group at the Palatine Hill. The docent, Manu, was great. The group was less great. I was really looking forward to these sights, but my memory of them is a little clouded by the group I was with.
There was a couple who live in Italy and the woman of the couple aleady knew everything about everything. She either nodded her head vigorously or shook her head at everything the docent said. The other three in the group were engineers from California. The married engineers were ok, but their frind was a caution. He must be intelligent because he works as an engineer, but he acted like he knew absolutely nothing. He first argued about the umbrella pines and said they could not be natural. He knew nothing about history and spent most of the tour asking for directions to the Rome Time Elevator. He then kept pointing out that the sights must not really be ancient because he ancient Romans wouldn't have had metal scaffolding.
Ok - venting over. I will return to the sights.
I think what impressed me most was the Senate House. I have read extensively about it and always imagined it much larger. Stepping inside I really could imagine Cicero declaiming here with a crowd pressed to the doors. The Forum and Colosseum were both mobbed with people but since we had tickets from the Palatine we were able to bypass the lines.
After the tour concluded at the Colosseum I walked up towards St. Clements. The church was closed for the mid day break so I went to a restaurant called i Clemetini across the street. I picked this spot for lunch since it was filled with Italian families having lunch. It was delicious - zucchini flowers, ravioli and roast pork.
After lunch I went back to the Coloseum for a more leisurely look and to buy some postcards. I wandered back through the Forum and up the hill to the Capitoline Museums.
If I were doing it again, I would have visited the Capitoline Museums another day. I was pretty worn out and I really didn't appreciate the art as much as I might have. I did have a lovely break at the roof top cafe while the sun set. I'll definitely return to this museum next time.
By the end of today I was on monument and masterppiece overload. I had planned to return to the Vatican Museums on Monday, but I decided I needed a vacation from my vacation.
Day Six
After sleeping in, I decided to try the 110 Tram around town. It left from just across the street so I went over and caught it. It offers a nice overview of the sights and you can hop on and off. I rode to Piazza Agusto and got off for lunch.
I had lunch at 'Gusto on the piazza just across from the bus stop. I loved this resaurant. They have pizza, a lunch buffet, a quieter restaurant upstairs and a wine bar. I had pizza and it was delicious and the atmosphere was great. I was back by here on the next Sunday and it was packed. On Sundays they seem to have live music and brunch.
I continued on the 110 back to the hotel. Stangely, when it loops back to Termini, the buses stop for 40 minutes so you have to change buses. On the second bus, the narration was completely different a woman not a man and not as complete. I don't know if one bus was newer than the other or what.
After a break at the hotel, I took the bus across the river and went to the Insalata Ricca for dinner. I liked this chain place. They have big salads and everything was very fresh. It was early (for Italians) but there was a lovely group of French folks there. We bonded over the translation of the word pineapple.
The break from intensive sightseeing was good. I was regrouped and ready to go the next day to see the sights of Classical Rome.
Dec 30th, 2006, 10:50 PM
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Yes, the Capitoline museum is wonderful, but, like everything else, sometimes we are just on overload and cannot absorb another thing. It's good you recognized this and worked with it. This is why we just have to return again and again.
I am enjoying this very much. Thanks for sharing!
Linda
I am enjoying this very much. Thanks for sharing!
Linda
Dec 31st, 2006, 01:37 PM
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Day 7 - Afternoon Tour of Classical Sights
In the morning I packed to get ready for moving to Naples on Wednesday. I took a bus to Termini to get a train ticket and had lunch at the AutoGrille there. I know the foodies probably wouldn't choose that, but it was convenient and I thought quite tasty. I had a delicious risotto and roast pork.
I took another bus to Piazza Bocca Della Verita to meet my tour of Classical Rome. I was early, but had a lovely time reading, enjoying the sun and watching people. I also gave directions to a group of Mexican tourists who came up and spoke Spanish to me. I speak Spanish because I work with Latino prison inmates, but I am not Hispanic. Everywhere in Italy I went, people assumed I was Spanish. I'm not sure why although if I spoke to them, I'm sure my Italian is Mexican accented because I speak Spanish every day.
Any way, we met at the Temple of Herculres in the piazza and talked about this area as it was during the Roman Empire. It was a Livestock market so the temples were built with storage areas underneath that merchants used to store money and goods overnight. We visited a church and the excavaion underneath that showed quite clearly how Roman temples were absorbed and folded into churches.
We continued on to the edge of the Jewish Ghetto and the theater remains there. This made a nice connection to the tour I took the first day. We went on toward Area Sacra at Tour Argentina. We then continued around to Campo Dei Fiori and the the remains of Pompey's theaer. The buildings here curve as they were built on the outlines of the theater.
We crossed then toward the Pantheon - Wow. On the way we walked down the street wth all the shops cary ecclesiastical supplies. I thought the window display of robes and nightgowns for nuns a little scandalous.
The Pantheon was my favorite building in Rome. We stopped behind the building and the docent talked about it. As we rounded it we got the full impact of stepping under that awesome dome. Even crowded with people and on going restoration it was breath taking.
This was a really good tour, as were all of the Context tours I took. It was definitely the most walking if that is a concern.
After searching for a bathroom, I returned to the Pantheon and then went to have a quick espresso at Tazza D'Oro whih I had read was one the top spots for coffe in Rome. It was fine, but the coffee didn't stand out in any particular way.
I wandered toward Campo dei Fiori and found a restaurant on the piazza for dinner. It started to rain and I was amazed at the ingenious system of canvas gutters they put up to connect the umbrellas and direct the rain away from the tables.
I headed back to the hotel to finish getting ready for Naples.
In the morning I packed to get ready for moving to Naples on Wednesday. I took a bus to Termini to get a train ticket and had lunch at the AutoGrille there. I know the foodies probably wouldn't choose that, but it was convenient and I thought quite tasty. I had a delicious risotto and roast pork.
I took another bus to Piazza Bocca Della Verita to meet my tour of Classical Rome. I was early, but had a lovely time reading, enjoying the sun and watching people. I also gave directions to a group of Mexican tourists who came up and spoke Spanish to me. I speak Spanish because I work with Latino prison inmates, but I am not Hispanic. Everywhere in Italy I went, people assumed I was Spanish. I'm not sure why although if I spoke to them, I'm sure my Italian is Mexican accented because I speak Spanish every day.
Any way, we met at the Temple of Herculres in the piazza and talked about this area as it was during the Roman Empire. It was a Livestock market so the temples were built with storage areas underneath that merchants used to store money and goods overnight. We visited a church and the excavaion underneath that showed quite clearly how Roman temples were absorbed and folded into churches.
We continued on to the edge of the Jewish Ghetto and the theater remains there. This made a nice connection to the tour I took the first day. We went on toward Area Sacra at Tour Argentina. We then continued around to Campo Dei Fiori and the the remains of Pompey's theaer. The buildings here curve as they were built on the outlines of the theater.
We crossed then toward the Pantheon - Wow. On the way we walked down the street wth all the shops cary ecclesiastical supplies. I thought the window display of robes and nightgowns for nuns a little scandalous.
The Pantheon was my favorite building in Rome. We stopped behind the building and the docent talked about it. As we rounded it we got the full impact of stepping under that awesome dome. Even crowded with people and on going restoration it was breath taking.
This was a really good tour, as were all of the Context tours I took. It was definitely the most walking if that is a concern.
After searching for a bathroom, I returned to the Pantheon and then went to have a quick espresso at Tazza D'Oro whih I had read was one the top spots for coffe in Rome. It was fine, but the coffee didn't stand out in any particular way.
I wandered toward Campo dei Fiori and found a restaurant on the piazza for dinner. It started to rain and I was amazed at the ingenious system of canvas gutters they put up to connect the umbrellas and direct the rain away from the tables.
I headed back to the hotel to finish getting ready for Naples.
Dec 31st, 2006, 02:52 PM
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Isn't the Pantheon amazing? I loved the outside, which looks ancient and huge, but does not really prepare you for the graciousness of the interior. And the surrounding neighborhood is one of my favorites in Rome.
Napoli - I'm looking forward to your experience there since I have not yet been.
Napoli - I'm looking forward to your experience there since I have not yet been.
Jan 3rd, 2007, 05:25 PM
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Day 7 - It poured rain! Fortunately all I ws doing was going by train to Naples.
I stayed at the Grand Hotel Parker's. I had a terrible time picking a hotel in Naples. As it turned out, the map I used in the Lonely Planet guide wasn't very accurate. I chose this hotel over the Pinto Storey because on the map it appeared to be much nearer public transportaion. Actually the reverse was true.
The hotel was really lovely, but not especially convenient. The breakfast room did however totally make up for the transportation difficulties. They serve breakfast on the top floor overlooking the bay. It was clear with beuatiful sunrises each day and the breakfast was good too. The room is very elegant (stools for your handbag which I love for some unknown reason). Did I mention the view?
Day 8 - Pompeii
I took the Context tour of Pompeii. I met with the group coming from Rome at the train station. Our guide was great. We had a private car from the station to take us to Pompeii. When we arrived we found the workers were on a two hour late start/ mini-strike. We discussed as a group what to do. There was a chance that the site would open an hour after we got there or that they would strike all day. She offered us the option of waiting or going back into Naples and doing somethings else, but having to return to Pompeii by train in the afternoon if they re-opened. We opted to wait and adjourned to a cafe for coffee.
We spent the hour over coffee getting some information about Pompeii, but getting more info about life in modern Naples.
I'll cotinue shortly.
I stayed at the Grand Hotel Parker's. I had a terrible time picking a hotel in Naples. As it turned out, the map I used in the Lonely Planet guide wasn't very accurate. I chose this hotel over the Pinto Storey because on the map it appeared to be much nearer public transportaion. Actually the reverse was true.
The hotel was really lovely, but not especially convenient. The breakfast room did however totally make up for the transportation difficulties. They serve breakfast on the top floor overlooking the bay. It was clear with beuatiful sunrises each day and the breakfast was good too. The room is very elegant (stools for your handbag which I love for some unknown reason). Did I mention the view?
Day 8 - Pompeii
I took the Context tour of Pompeii. I met with the group coming from Rome at the train station. Our guide was great. We had a private car from the station to take us to Pompeii. When we arrived we found the workers were on a two hour late start/ mini-strike. We discussed as a group what to do. There was a chance that the site would open an hour after we got there or that they would strike all day. She offered us the option of waiting or going back into Naples and doing somethings else, but having to return to Pompeii by train in the afternoon if they re-opened. We opted to wait and adjourned to a cafe for coffee.
We spent the hour over coffee getting some information about Pompeii, but getting more info about life in modern Naples.
I'll cotinue shortly.
Jan 5th, 2007, 06:17 PM
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Sorry for the delay. I am back at work this week. Funny how work takes up so much of the day!
Anyway, in addition to talking about Pompeii, we talked quite a bit about the state of Italian life. She was roughly my age and had a doctorate, but hasn't ever had a regular full time job because the government hasn't given the appropriate civil service exam for 12 years and without the exam you can't apply for jobs!
Finally, they did in fact open, but wouldn't give out maps with tickets. I would have liked one for my scrapbook, but it was fine without. We visited the highlights and talked a lot about the way the site is presented and the choices various administators have made.
After Pompeii (which I loved and will visit again but has been covered quite a bit I think) we went into Naples to the Centro Storico. We walked along to a pizza place. From the street it just looks like a take out window, but there is a very narrow stair behind the counter in front of the oven that leads up to a dining room. It was packed with school kids and families. The pizza was delicious and it was a nice break to absorb the sights of Pompeii.
After lunch, we walked along to the Archeological Museum. (I went back the next day so I will talk about it on Day Nine.)
When we finished at the Museum, the rest of the group walked back to the train station, but it was closer for me to get a taxi to the hotel. On this taxi ride I made my one "dumb tourist" mistake and overpaid the driver. He didn't rip me off, I was just tired and paid the time instead of the fare. He tried to give me the change and I just waived it off thinking it was only 2 Euros instead of 12. Oh well the driver got a bonus and it wasn't an especially expensive mistake as these things go.
I went down towards the water for dinner. I browsed the Feltrinelli bookstore and ate dinner at Trattoria Mediterranea. It was good, but not the greatest service ever. I did have a lovely grilled, fresh tuna.
I slept very well after an intensive day of sightseeing.
Day Nine - coming soon The National Archeological Museum, Piazza Belli, Via Gregorio and Cappella San Severo.
Anyway, in addition to talking about Pompeii, we talked quite a bit about the state of Italian life. She was roughly my age and had a doctorate, but hasn't ever had a regular full time job because the government hasn't given the appropriate civil service exam for 12 years and without the exam you can't apply for jobs!
Finally, they did in fact open, but wouldn't give out maps with tickets. I would have liked one for my scrapbook, but it was fine without. We visited the highlights and talked a lot about the way the site is presented and the choices various administators have made.
After Pompeii (which I loved and will visit again but has been covered quite a bit I think) we went into Naples to the Centro Storico. We walked along to a pizza place. From the street it just looks like a take out window, but there is a very narrow stair behind the counter in front of the oven that leads up to a dining room. It was packed with school kids and families. The pizza was delicious and it was a nice break to absorb the sights of Pompeii.
After lunch, we walked along to the Archeological Museum. (I went back the next day so I will talk about it on Day Nine.)
When we finished at the Museum, the rest of the group walked back to the train station, but it was closer for me to get a taxi to the hotel. On this taxi ride I made my one "dumb tourist" mistake and overpaid the driver. He didn't rip me off, I was just tired and paid the time instead of the fare. He tried to give me the change and I just waived it off thinking it was only 2 Euros instead of 12. Oh well the driver got a bonus and it wasn't an especially expensive mistake as these things go.
I went down towards the water for dinner. I browsed the Feltrinelli bookstore and ate dinner at Trattoria Mediterranea. It was good, but not the greatest service ever. I did have a lovely grilled, fresh tuna.
I slept very well after an intensive day of sightseeing.
Day Nine - coming soon The National Archeological Museum, Piazza Belli, Via Gregorio and Cappella San Severo.
Jan 5th, 2007, 06:23 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2005
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I just want to repeat the point that the taxi driver tried to give you back what you overpaid. So many who inquire on this site are afraid (paranoid even?) of getting ripped off, especially by taxi drivers. I know it happens sometimes, but not all that often. And there are honest people out there - even Italian taxi drivers!
Enjoying your trip report and looking forward to the museum.
Linda
Enjoying your trip report and looking forward to the museum.
Linda
