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            A NeoFodorite’s Trip Report—Adventures (and Misadventures) in Paris, Venice, Florence, Rome, and Madrid

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            Hi everyone! I have been back from my trip for almost a week now, and I haven’t let myself near Fodor’s because I’ve had so much to catch up with. Now that I’ve finally been a teeny bit productive (no small feat with jet lag and post-vacation inertia to contend with) I feel that it is time to begin my trip sharing process. Forgive my excessive detail—my mom is a great listener, so I never learned to summarize.

            First of all, I learned a few lessons on the flight to Paris from San Diego. I knew that we’d be running late as always, so I dropped off our dog and cat at the pet hotel the day before. We managed to get to the airport with plenty of time to spare, especially since we weren’t checking any baggage! Our carry on luggage (2 each) were already filled to the brim though. We are such nerds that we packed our laptop, PSP (portable Playstation—for my husband, not me), mini disc player, portable DVD player, digital camera, video camera, and electric toothbrush…. Believe it or not, everything but the mini disk player got quite a bit of use! As I walked down the jet way to the plane a flight attendant saw me and said, “That’s a lot of carry on luggage!” but, I coyly smiled and continued onto the plane. In my opinion, once you make it past the boarding airline worker, you’re golden (I used this to my advantage for the flight home too).

            We first flew to Dallas Fort Worth. Our flight change was easy and uneventful, aside from probably riding their tram system the long way to our next terminal. Once on the plane which would take us from Dallas to Paris, I started to notice more “French-looking” (and smelling!) people. In fact, one of them sat next to me. Daniel was a jolly gentleman, who tossed back the airline wine with great aplomb. He gave my husband and me all sorts of advice on what to expect in Paris. He even bought me some Chanel No. 5 from the Duty Free airline magazine! What savoir-faire!

            The flight was tolerable except for an hour or two in the middle of it when I had “jumpy legs syndrome”. I had been sitting for too long and I couldn’t sleep, I couldn’t watch the movie, and I couldn’t read my book (too boring). Worst of all, all my comfortable flight trappings were scattered through out all the pockets and compartments of three different carry on bags. I didn’t have the heart to disturb all my peacefully sleeping co travelers in order to find everything, so I had to buy a travel comfort package from the “Duty Free” magazine. With my eye mask and ear plugs (and blow-up neck pillow which I did find in my luggage) I could finally calm down and get a little rest. Next time I’ll also bring a little aerosol can of Evian water. My nasal passages were getting DRY with all the recycled air. At that point everything was annoying me. But, near the end of the 10 hour flight (which was due to land at 11 am Paris time), it dawned on me—I had no clue how we were going to get from the airport to the hotel. I vaguely remembered bits and pieces of other peoples’ Fodor’s posts regarding travel from the airport into various arrondisements, but of course I hadn’t bothered to transcribe any of it for my personal use (see http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34779761 post for a further illustration of my failure to plan).

            Thank goodness for our new French friend Daniel! He gallantly rode the bus with us into the city, and offered to take the metro with us too, but at that point I was a walking zombie and the thought of dragging my luggage into the metro was too much! Instead he tucked us into a cab and gave the driver our hotel address. Daniel was a wonderful introduction to the kindness of French people.

            Once at our hotel we crammed our luggage and me into the tiny elevator, and Edgar climbed the stairs. He couldn’t believe how small our room, and bathroom were! I, of course, knew what to expect after all my Fodor’s reading. Against the advice of some Fodorites, we took a three hour nap. We needed it! We then asked Julie of Hotel Monge front desk fame how to use the metro (there were two stations for two different lines less than a block in either direction), walked round the corner for some quiche and French pastry snacks, and headed off to get our bearings at the Eiffel Tower!

            I have to admit that the view from the top was a little gray—the flowers hadn’t quite bloomed yet. I think we were just a week or two early, because I saw buds on a lot of trees. Since dusk was near, we decided to stay on top until it got dark. It was very windy, so we stayed on the leeward side so as not to shock our delicate Southern California constitutions. Our patience paid off when we saw the city lights sparkling! What a view.

            The only problem was getting back down! It took 5 times as long to get down the thing than it took to get up. I’m exaggerating, but it did take longer to get down and it was more frustrating. The lines for ascending were organized and logical, while the “lines” to get down were a big crush of people with newcomers constantly cutting to the front. I finally got what everyone was talking about when they mentioned that other cultures have oddball queuing mores. I was wishing for some zigzag velvet ropes to keep everyone in line, but after 10 minutes of observing the laws of the jungle, we gave up and pushed to the head of the line too.

            We headed to a home style French restaurant recommended by robjame--- but they were full, so we tried another bustling restaurant on the same street that looked popular, called L’AOC. It had good food and service. Edgar had the steak and I had the “baby ham” as the waiter called it. It was actually deliciously moist pork tenderloin.
            A little dog even wandered by our table. It’s so interesting to see dogs in restaurants in Europe! I wish I could take my dog to restaurants here in the US.

            We went back to the hotel and slept a full eight hours. When we woke up refreshed and energized the next morning; we were so proud of ourselves for being impervious to jetlag. The next day we were to find out how “pervious” to jetlag we really were.

            Since it was Saturday we decided to go to Versailles, after all, the next day was the first Sunday of the month, and any self-respecting Fodorite knows that the Louvre is free then.
            So, we asked Julie for directions to Versailles. She whipped out a handy preprinted sheet with directions there. She is the most organized and knowledgeable front desk lady ever! We stopped to buy some pastries for breakfast, and on a whim bought a crudite to bring a long as a snack (We pointed out the one that looked the tastiest and the girl told us it was duck! I had never eaten duck before, but decided to give it a try. Delicious!). Then, it was a quick 45 minute trip on the metro and an RER train. Julie’s preprinted directions to Versailles pointed out that we could include our Versailles admission with the roundtrip RER fare. This turned out to be a stroke of genius, as there was very long line to buy tickets to get into the Chateau, but if you already had tickets you could waltz right in. Of course, we didn’t know that at first, so we stood around in line with everyone else for about 10 minutes before we realized our good fortune.

            We enjoyed our wanderings through the Chateau, and when we got out to the grounds, we realized that we were an hour and a half early for the water show (we went on the weekend in order to see the water show). My husband wanted to wander around the grounds until the show started, I on the other hand had seen the Las Vegas Bellagio water show (seen one you’ve seen ‘em all, right?) and had a hankering for the famous creperie next to the train station. My DH caved into my wishes and off we went to gorge ourselves on crepe greatness. Yum! This was one of my favorite meals in France. The ingredients are so fresh and so delicious. The wait staff didn’t speak much English, so we had to rely on our Rick Steve’s French phrase book to get by. My husband enjoyed the service so much that he feverishly flipped through our phrase book until he came up with this gem: “Les Francais sont gentils” (the French are friendly). The waiters got a kick out of DH’s efforts to communicate.

            We then took the RER train back to the metro and since we had some time to kill before our 9:45 Bofinger reservation, we rode the metro to the Arc de Triomphe. It took a bit of circumnavigating, but we finally found the underground passageway to get to the Arc (it’s in the middle of a busy roundabout, so you have to walk under the street to get to it. We were so excited to get to the top that we raced Stairmaster-style all the way to the top. The only problem was that I forgot to stretch out at the top, so I had crazy muscle spasms in my legs the rest of the night.

            We took some great pictures from the top and oohed and ahhed at the intermittent sparkling frenzies of the Eiffel Tower, and then I spied the Champs-Elysees beckoning me with its neon lights and fashion. That is definitely the place to be on a Saturday night! The sidewalks were packed. We gazed around for a while, and then rushed off to our dinner reservation. When we got to Bofinger we were chagrined to see that everyone was wearing dressy clothes while we were still in our jeans and trainers from our earlier activities. We saw a few other people also dressed down a little, but we would have felt much more comfortable if we had dressed up. Nevertheless, the place was hopping, and we were glad for our reservations as there were quite a few people waiting for a table. We both had French Onion soup for our starter (THE BEST EVER), Edgar had the chateaubriand and I had the monkfish. The steak was wonderful, but I was under whelmed by the monkfish. The dessert of raspberries sandwiched between layers of thin pastry and whipped cream was amazing.

            To be continued…

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