Oh good, I've been waiting to read this. More, please!

We ate at Agape Substance on Sat the 26 Nov! Looking forward to hearing about your experience!

me too! we ate at le cinq last jan [on a sunday too] so I'm really keen to compare notes!

What did you think of Agape Substance, jamikins? We had read such glowing reviews and were a bit disappointed but perhaps we had misplaced/too high expectations?

Saturday November 26 & Sunday November 27
We were in Texas visiting Mark’s family for Thanksgiving so flew out of IAH on Air France. A great day to fly as it was really quiet and we got checked in and through security in no time. Our flight was slightly delayed due to the delayed arrival of the inbound plane and we made it to our first hotel the Renaissance Vendome around 10:30am after taking a taxi. Our room was not ready yet so we walked over to the Franprix at the Place du Marche Saint Honore to pick up a few snacks (why does even grocery store cheese taste so good here?). Our room was ready shortly after we returned and we got a bigger one than last year (the rooms here are really small) facing the courtyard this time (last year we faced the Irish pub during World Cup which actually turned out to be quite entertaining).

We walked over to Un Dimanche a Paris for our first meal. Many families here enjoying brunch on a Sunday. It was a very nice unchallenging, un-thought provoking start to our 8 days of utter indulgence, just what we needed in our jet lagged state. Two brunch menus at 35/55 and a 3 course non-brunch at 50 were available on Sunday. I won’t go into too many details as the menus are on their website. I think the only ones they don’t have listed are the cheaper weekday formules starting around 20 some euros. It was very warm inside the restaurant and we were both starting to fall asleep at the end of our meal. Got a mont blanc to go which was delicious even if a bit deconstructed by the time we got back to the hotel

Next stop, Jacques Genin. What was I thinking trying to come here on a Sunday afternoon, right? There were 4 parties in line in front of us but less seating than I had imagined. We gave up after a half hour wait but did get some caramels and chocolates to go. As lovely as their caramels are I think I’m more of a chocolate person. There was an antique market nearby today that we browsed through. Then we poked our heads inside Breizh Café but it was packed and hot so we just slowly ambled back to our hotel. Neither of us were really that hungry anyway so we just ended up at the L’Ecluse in the Place du Marche Saint Honore for a few glasses of wine and shared their duck & goose plate (not bad!).

This evening we tried to go for a swim but found the hotel pool closed until Tuesday for renovation. They did offer to send us to another pool but that was more effort than we were wanted to go to. I ended up taking a hot bath instead (oh yeah, this room has a separate bath tub too, woo hoo) and attempted to go to sleep (not in the bath tub). I have terrible jet lag and usually have trouble falling asleep even with a sleep aid and then can’t wake up in the morning. Mark’s out as soon as his head hits the pillow. I’m so envious.

Same for us Patty - the food was interesting, and we had several fabulous dishes, but there were some let downs too. Service started out fantastic, but then was very spotty at the end. They also wanted to control the experience too much - there is only 1 bathroom, so they basically have to give you persmission to go.

In saying that - it was a good price and we had a fun 3 hours over lunch!

Great start. Can't wait to read more......your restaurant list is awesome, I'll be interested to read your impressions and see if you guys managed to eat at all those fabulous places in 1 trip!

Jo

Monday November 28
Mark woke me at 11:00am asking “honey, do you still want to go to lunch?” Of course I want to go to lunch as I flew out of bed and into the shower! We lucked out with a taxi driver who thought he was in a Formula 1 race and even made it to the restaurant on time Lunch at Les Tablettes Jean-Louis Nomicos – there is a 4 course menu at 58 euros which includes several choices for starters, mains, a cheese course and dessert with water, wine and coffee included. The dinner menus as well as a la carte are also available at lunch. We both ordered off the lunch menu (which was different from what was on the website at the time) that started with a foie emulsion amuse. Mark had scallops on beets to start and the hare for his main course and I had the pate de foie gras and the sot l’y laisse (that sounds so much more appetizing than chicken oysters, doesn’t it? And it was every bit as delicious). Both mains also had seared foie gras (can there be too much foie?). The cheese course was a no choice goat. For dessert Mark chose the ile flottante and I had the mont blanc. We finished with some coffee and mignardises. We both thought it was a very solid meal but perhaps not particularly innovative.

After lunch we went to the Jaeger LeCoultre auction preview at Artcurial. Mark is a big watch nut and we found out about this just before arriving in Paris. The auction was tomorrow so this was the last viewing day. The exhibition was very nicely presented and we each tried on several pieces but decided we could get ourselves into too much trouble by actually attending the auction so were content just to leave with a beautiful museum quality catalog. Plus I already had a very full day of eating planned for tomorrow!

We walked through the Champs Elysees Christmas market and then stopped at Jean-Paul Hevin for some macarons and tea (wine for Mark). I picked up some more chocolates here. For dinner we headed to Juveniles. Mark had the 3 course menu which consisted of potiron soup, a stilton/courgette lasagna and flourless chocolate cake that night. I had the magret de canard and we shared a bottle of beaujolais. The stilton lasagna was nice but we remember the food being more interesting and tapas like before. In any case, it was fine for what we were looking for which was a quick, simple meal. Our bill came to 58 euros.

Weren't you stuffed? I am in awe of your eating capacity--and you are tiny!

I did some stomach stretching exercises the week before

Tuesday November 29
Mark wakes me up with a “honey, it’s 9 o’clock” (are you seeing a pattern here?) so again I jump out of bed and we actually make it to the meeting point of our Context Baguette to Bistro tour 15 minutes early. There were 4 of us on the tour including another couple from Seattle and our docent was Meg Zimbeck, a food writer and founder of parisbymouth.com. Prior to booking I had read a negative review on Tripadvisor (they had a different docent) so had checked to see who would be leading the tour before confirming and was very excited to find out it would be Meg that day.

We had a really fun time over the next 3 hours sampling baguette at Kayser, cheese at Androuet, chocolates at Chapon, pastries at La Patisserie des Reves (oh, the Paris brest!) and even stopping in a taxidermy shop and just discussing food in general. As a matter of fact, we had such a great time that we invited Meg to lunch and the fun continued for another 3 hours. I could see how someone could be disappointed though if they had a guide who was perhaps less passionate about food.

Lunch at Agape Substance – we had a late reservation so things were really going when we arrived and it was hot and steamy inside the restaurant. We lucked out and had no problems adding a third person. For lunch there’s a choice of 3 course, 4 course or carte blanche at 39/51/65. It didn’t take us long to decide on the carte blanche. This was one of the meals I was most looking forward to and perhaps I had some misplaced expectations but overall I thought it was a bit too much style over substance. The carte blanche consisted of 13 courses (they were tiny so it was actually comfortable) of which some were quite good and others just didn’t seem to work that well. But the company was great and we had a fabulous time anyway. Some of the things I was concerned about like the stools turned out not to be an issue at all. I wasn’t the least bit uncomfortable. We were the last party to leave at 4:30pm and all had to try the Toto washlet. I won’t go into too much detail but there was even some cursing involved. The total came to 310 including 2 glasses of champagne, a bottle of wine and coffee.

We made our way back to the hotel stopping at Michel Cluizel for some chocolates and I went for a swim and relaxed by the just re-opened pool. Dinner was at Neva Cuisine. We arrived for our reservations at 8:00pm to find a completely empty restaurant. They were still vacuuming the floor. Are we at the right place? Soon after we were seated a couple tried to walk in and were turned away and by 9:00pm the place was packed. The food here is what I would describe as high end bistro (why isn’t there one of these in my neighborhood?). It’s a high ceiling room with lots of space between tables. There are several choices of starters, mains and dessert with 2 courses priced at 29 and 3 at 36 with some supplements. Mark had the pate de foie gras to start and the turbot and I had the langoustines (mmm…) and the riz de veau. Excellent ingredients, well prepared, ahhhh. Then we shared the chocolate sphere, oh my God, the chocolate sphere! Our bill was 126 with 2 glasses of champagne, 2 glasses of wine and coffee.

It was raining slightly, but we decided to walk back viewing the window displays at Printemps and Galeries Lafayette along the way.

oh, this shouldn't be allowed. I'm sitting here drooling.

I can hardly wait until our trip in March!

I've managed to find all the other restaurants you mention on the web and have bmk'd them, but have you got a link for Neva Cuisine? i couldn't find one.

I am in awe, too! Patty, I'm impressed. Even if the courses were manageable, I still think I'd be dragging too much after lunch to get motivated to go to dinner.

You guys weren't kidding when you said you wanted to focus on food this trip! A wonderful theme for Paris, to be sure.

Thanks for posting - I'm enjoying this.

All I can find is nevacuisine.com but there doesn't appear to be any information there. I think they're open for lunch and dinner Mon-Fri and maybe dinner on Sat. The menu is the same at both meals. The restaurant opened July 5th this year.

Thanks for all the comments, everyone!

Wednesday November 30
We realized this morning that we just could not eat a multi-course lunch today so we reluctantly canceled our reservation at Piege (next time!). Breakfast(?) was macarons from Pierre Herme. We both really liked the white truffle hazelnut. We packed up and moved to the Park Hyatt at noon. Expecting to have to store our luggage, we were delighted to find our room was ready. I was even more delighted when we found out we’d been upgraded to a room with a terrace. We had stayed here 6 years ago and had a room facing Rue de la Paix. This time we were facing the courtyard.

For lunch we decided to go to La Garde Robe and had some charcuterie, cheese and a veggie plate (I had a serious veggie craving by now). The perfect light meal, with 3 glasses of wine our bill was 42 euros.

I decided to make another attempt at Jacques Genin today and arrived to find their tea salon half empty. Definitely come on a weekday. Mark had a caramel éclair and I had the chocolate one. My chocolate éclair had just been made and there was a marked difference between the two. 2 coffees, some “free” chocolates and it came to 22 euros. We sat for a while and our server was concerned when we didn’t wolf down our éclairs but I assured her we were just slowly enjoying. We thought it was good but not particularly better than Reves or Un Dimanche. That said we had different pastries at each place so it’s not a direct comparison.

We stopped across the street at 134 Rue de Turenne. Meg had told us about this baker that offers classes. I had a hard time trying to explain in my broken French what I wanted to the sales girl so she went back and grabbed Benjamin who told us all about his class. It’s basically a flexible, no schedule thing, just whenever he has time (not before 11:00am) and you get to make breads and viennoiserie at the bakery. He seemed like a fun guy and it’s probably something we’ll do next time. Anyway, his email is bturquier@hotmail.com if anyone is interested.

We walked back to the hotel and I took another hot bath. Dinner tonight was at Septime, food wise, our favorite meal of the trip. All of the flavors just worked so well together here. Every ingredient complemented each other. There is a carte blanche at 52 as well as a la carte. The carte blanche consisted of half portions of 2 starters, 2 mains, cheese and dessert. We went with the carte blanche and since there were only 3 choices of starters and 2 choices of mains on the a la carte, we basically tried everything except the oeuf starter and didn’t have a choice of dessert. The first course was raw scallop with sea urchin in a fennel sauce. Next came a gnocchi with squash sauce and ricotta followed by rouget with lime sauce and leeks, then milk fed lamb with pureed parsnip. The cheese course consisted of 2 cheeses one of which was a very nice 18 month etivaz. Dessert was apple and quince, light and perfect. I can’t even pick out a favorite dish here as everything was so good. I wanted to start all over again at the end of the meal. The total was 127 with 3 glasses of wine.

Patty, I couldn't open the photo link you posted at the top of this thread.

Great report, Patty!

This is really strange....when I click on your link for the photos, I get GraceJoan's dinner at Reed!

Thanks for letting me know. Sorry about that. Hope this one works http://www.kodakgallery.com/gallery/sharing/shareRedirectSwitchBoard.jsp?token=3027459611105%3A634459534

Thanks, Patty, it worked. Beautiful photos!!

Thursday December 1
Breakfast today was a canele from Fauchon. Somehow I managed to get lost on the way there and had to huff it back quickly to get ready for lunch Lunch at Kei offered an option of 4 courses for 38 or 6 courses for 68. It’s basically a no choice menu except for the main meat – we could have pork, duck or fish but it had to be the same for the whole table. We went with the 4 course with duck and added a black truffle supplement of 10 euros to the gnocchi course. The meal started with a refreshing amuse of scallop and ginger. Then we moved on to the pate de foie with pear and caramel sauce followed by the gnocchi with iberico ham and black truffle (this was gooooood and I’m so glad we added the truffle). Duck with potiron sauce was next. This was the only course where I felt it needed something extra to complement the duck although Mark felt it was fine and you could really focus on the flavor of the duck. Dessert was green tea ice cream, mango sorbet and yuzu meringue. I’m really liking the light desserts on these last 2 meals and this coming from a total chocoholic says a lot! Mignardises were salted madeleines with caramel sauce and this little orange burst made of mango and passion fruit. Overall probably our second favorite meal. 170 total with 2 glasses of champagne, 3 glasses of wine and a bottle of water.

It’s raining so we decided to take a taxi back. Halfway there our driver gets into a heated argument with a motorcyclist who backed into his car. It was very amusing to watch. A lot of yelling and posturing and then just as suddenly they stopped and each went their way. In the US, someone would have ended up dead

We had our chocolate truffle class at Un Dimanche this evening so decided to head out for an early bite. We didn’t want a full meal and stopped at Little Breizh to find that they weren’t open yet. L’Avant Comptoir was already jammed. We ended up having a microwaved pizza at Kayser. Later I remembered Cosi was in the same neighborhood and we could’ve gone there but pizza at Kayser was fine.

Class was fun. There were only 4 of us and they had an extra person just to translate for the two of us. We made truffles with 2 different ganaches, nature and pink peppercorn. We ended up with 4 boxes and 3 jars of take home. It’s a lot of work making so many truffles!

We had our chocolate truffle class at Un Dimanche this evening so decided to head out for an early bite. We didn’t want a full meal >>

really? I don't know whether to be green with envy or a little queasy at the amount you managed to put away! honestly i say this out of admiration for your devotion to duty, firstly in doing all this culinary research and secondly for recording it for posterity.

i loved the photos [I had the same problem as Judy with the first lot] and am so looking forward to finding out what you thought of le cinq.

keep it coming - I'm feeling hungry again now.

Thanks

The hardest part is going back to "normal" eating at home.

Friday December 2
Ugghh, I have trouble waking up again and we’re 15 minutes late to class. Many apologies and we dove right into mixing flour, yeast, water and salt for our baguette and fougasse class at La Cuisine Paris. There were 8 of us in class and we each made 4 mini baguettes and 2 fougasses. We learned how stupid simple it was to shape an epi and got to choose the fillings for our fougasses. The 3 hours went by so fast and we learned a lot. Right before the class it had dawned on me that we’d probably have a lot of take home again and canceled our lunch at Sola. Instead we ate our fougasses in a park while they were still warm. It was a beautiful sunny afternoon. We got a 10% discount card to E. Dehillerin for taking the class so headed there. It was so wonderfully overwhelming that we walked out with nothing. Maybe I can save the card for next time.

We stopped at Juveniles again for more beaujolais and then macarons at Hugo & Victor. These were our favorite macarons. The flavors were uncomplicated, no foie, no truffle, no gold leaf but the meringue had a melt in your mouth soft interior with a very crispy exterior. It’s all about the meringue!

Dinner was at Bistro Volnay. It was nice to literally walk a few steps there. There was a couple from San Francisco who tried to walk in that really wanted to eat there. They were only there til Monday so this was their only opportunity. I felt bad for them. If we had a slightly bigger table I would’ve even asked if they could somehow squeeze in with us. There was a 3 course for 38 euros with choices of starters, mains and dessert and a 6 course degustation at 55. We didn’t think we could manage the 6 course so stuck with 3. There were many game dishes, some with supplement. The lobster came with a heavy supplement which I somehow managed to cut out of the photo. Dinner started with some rillettes and really light, airy gougeres making me realize how much I suck at making them Mark had the lievre and foie terrine and the lobster with tarragon. I started with razor clams and moved on to partridge. Everything was very tasty and again high end bistro in style. It was very dark inside the restaurant so the pics don’t really do the dishes justice. For dessert Mark had an incredibly light soufflé and I had the riz au lait. We finished with some macaron mignardises and chocolate truffles. All together it was 147 including 2 glasses of champagne, 2 glasses of wine and coffee.

We returned to the hotel to find a card and some apology gifts waiting in our room. I had a problem with reception earlier in the day resulting in a conversation with the guest relations manager. Suffice to say it was resolved satisfactorily. Other than that we had absolutely perfect service here and it was a noticeable step up from the Renaissance (but I still really like the Ren as well).

Wow, I am having serious food envy right now! Your pictures had me salivating and your descriptions are delicious to read.

Our last few trips to Paris have been food centered as well ~ I spend way too much time on Chowhound and Paris by Mouth making my list and checking it twice. Looks like you did your research as well. Can't wait to read more!

Jo

Thank you for sharing your foodie adventures with us! I'm impressed with your research and reservations for the restaurnts. I also do the same when it is a "food" trip!

Saturday December 3
We walked to Chez L’Ami Jean in the rain and wind (which again I barely woke up in time for) and my useless REI travel umbrella snapped right away. Oh well, sharing an umbrella is very cozy. Lunch at Chez L’Ami Jean offered the option of a 3 course at 42, a 5 course petit voyageur at 55, a carte blanche at 80 as well as a la carte. The dishes on the 3 course didn’t sound that interesting to us and we momentarily considered ordering carte blanche but chickened out and ordered a la carte knowing how large the portions are here. We ended up sharing a starter, each ordering a main and sharing a dessert which I thought was perfect. We started with the roasted scallops (yummy) and Mark had the deer while I had the wood pigeon. I was warned it was gamey but loved it. Of course we had to have to riz au lait. The servers here were funny and jokey and we had a great time. Cost was 145 with 2 glasses of wine and coffee.

We decided to pop into Gregory Renard for macarons since we were in the neighborhood as I had heard great things. I have to say I didn’t find them that special and the service was very off putting. It’s the only place this trip where we received service bordering on rude (and there was no one else in the store so it wasn’t as if they were busy), actually the only place I can recall on any trip, and that might have colored my perception of their macarons.

We slowly meandered our way into the 6th and checked out the Hermes Rive Gauche store. There were lots of people going in and out of the store but it's big inside and didn't feel crowded. I admired a pair of gloves but decided they were too nice to forget somewhere and passed. I can be pretty absent minded and already left a pair in a taxi earlier in the week. On previous trips I’ve left my camera in a Miami taxi, a bag with camera, video camera, gps, 2 pairs of binos and who knows what else in the Air France boarding area at LAX and my bag with cash, tickets and passports in the lounge at the Nairobi Hilton. Through the benevolence of others, I’ve gotten everything back except the gloves. We sat for a little while in their tea salon and I had a rooibos while Mark had a glass of wine but no alcohol is served without food here so we were forced to have some charcuterie as well

We went into Bon Marche but found it too hot and crowded and left quickly. Stopped at both Patrick Roger and Richart for chocolates. BTW I want you to know that I brought most of my chocolates home. I did not eat them all there. My carry on was full of chocolate on the flight back. Anyone wanna come over for a tasting?

I found a cute little sweater for my niece but forget the name of the shop. Stopped for a glass of wine at Cosi where we were forced to buy a focaccia. A salted caramel macaron at Un Dimanche was next (if it sounds like we’re eating our way through the day, it’s because we’re eating our way through the day ).

Dinner was at Little Breizh where we were able to get a table as an early walk in. By 8:00pm the place was packed. I had the bacon, egg and mushroom and Mark had the scallop, bacon and onion and we shared a salted caramel crepe for dessert, so simple and so delicious. It came to 48 euros with 3 pichets of cider.

Eating your way through the day sounds good to me and I am enjoying every bite with you.

I have started a thread about presentation in France and your photos (and joan's) of the gorgeous presentation of the French food says it all.

Merci!

Sunday December 4
Our final day! I woke up with a pastry craving but was too lazy to go out and get one so ordered a kouign amann from room service. Is that all you want madame? Oui. Two minutes later a plate showed up with 2. Not on par with the one we had at La Patisserie des Reves but it will do. After my little brekkie, we walked over to the Carrousel du Louvre so I could buy some chocolates from La Maison du Chocolat. There’s a huge line wrapping around the entire shopping center to get into the Louvre but it looked like it was moving quickly.

Lunch today was at Le Cinq, another of our most looked forward to meals and it didn’t disappoint! The opulent room, the Christmas decorations, I was giddy before we even sat down. The lunch menu at 85 is a 3 course with the option to add a cheese course for 97 total. A la carte was available as well and I can’t remember if the larger tasting menu was available too. We both went with the lunch menu which had a choice of 3 starters, 2 mains and 3 desserts. Lunch started with a pre-amuse of smoked salmon and ravioli filled with chard. The wine list was huge! We enjoy wine with meals but don’t really know wine so went with one of the sommelier’s recommendations, a white Chateauneuf du Pape, based on what we ordered. I think a little olive oil tasting followed. There were so many little things that it’s hard to remember them all and I might be going in the wrong order.

Bread service came with regular and seaweed butter (oh, the seaweed butter!). The amuse consisted of a white bean emulsion, horseradish gelee and eel. Mark settled on the veal tartare with salmon roe and oyster and I had the pasta with artichoke and mushroom to start. They were concerned when I didn’t finish my pasta but I told them I was saving room for later (I had a plan). Mark had the duck for his main which was a huge portion (so glad I didn’t order that) and I had the scallops which came with a refreshing coriander sorbet on the side.

We both declined the cheese course. The neighboring table had it so we were able to see the presentation. The servings were big. Pre-dessert was a sheep’s milk yogurt with olive oil and cucumber gelee, nice and light. Then a glass of very pure water (it really did taste very clean) or maybe the water came before. Mark chose the chocolate fondant for dessert while I had the sacher biscuit. Finally the mignardise cart was rolled over (this is what I’d been planning for). There were about 13 different items. I had to try one of each and almost managed to finish them all. Then we were presented with a small box of caramels to go. Our bill with 1 glass of champagne, 1 bottle of wine, water, coffee and tea came to 316.

Was the food life changing? No, but it was very, very good and the whole experience was so enjoyable that we’d gladly do it again and highly recommend it. It was the perfect last meal of the trip! OK it wasn’t the actual last meal. You didn’t think we’d stop there, did ya? But it was the last “real” meal.

Later we walked through the Christmas market again and I found some cute booties for my nephew. I saw a woman with a boy about the same age, mangled enough words to make myself understood and she graciously helped me select the right size. We walked a bit further on the Champs Elysees and went into the Citroen showroom. I’m constantly amazed by the amount of effort put into presentation here. It was more like a museum than a car dealer. We decided to check out the Marriott as we almost stayed here just for a change. It seemed very nice but I’m glad we didn’t as it didn’t have the boutique-y feel we prefer. While there, we stop at the bar and Mark decided to order a Jack Daniels. I don’t know why cause he rarely drinks whisky. We got the bill and holy @#%! 38 euros! Never order a Jack Daniels at the Marriott.

For our final dinner, we shared a saucisse de Toulouse at the Christmas market, a fitting end to our 8 days of indulgence I think. We walked back to the hotel in the light rain, packed (making sure all the chocolates were in the carry on) and set a wake up call for the next morning. Mark was getting a little worried about me making it to the airport on time at this point.

Monday December 5
I’m up, dressed and ready to go by 7:30am. I told him not to worry. Mark feels like he’s coming down with something but we’re both just happy it didn’t happen til today. What a shame it would’ve been to miss Le Cinq! Traffic’s a little heavy this morning but we arrive at CDG by taxi in about an hour. Boarding was slightly delayed but we make up all the time and then some in the air. As I’m wolfing down the bad airline food like it’s my last meal on earth, I realize how much my appetite has grown in the past week. I kept asking for snacks too. First some sucre, then some sale, then some more sucre. Well, that has come to a grinding halt now that I’m home. On arrival at LAX we breezed through immigration and customs and our shuttle driver pulls up right as we walk out. Really this has been an amazingly smooth trip!

We went to Le Cinq last year on Christmas Day. You just have to do it once! Loved Un Dimanche a Paris. I am jealous that we missed so much of the great patisseries you went to...the stomach virus we both got messed up those plans but glad you made it.

PS You better get an alarm clock!!!!

I love reading this, but I can't begin to imagine living it (same with joan's reports). I just can't fathom how someone can eat that much food day after day. I'm envious, but I'd be a whale, and I'm a committed foodie! I must have the wrong metabolism.

I've traveled in Kenya with Patty and Mark, and they are normal people! Really.

Well, anyway, their appetites are normal...

I was so excited to see this trip report this morning. We are going back to Paris in March. A main part of our fun in Paris is dining out so I am doing my homework. thanks for all the good information

"My carry on was full of chocolate on the flight back. Anyone wanna come over for a tasting?"


Time and place?

Great Report, adds a lot of explanation to the photos which are wonderful too. Thanks for posting Patty.

This was great. We eat pretty frugally in Paris (including cooking our own meals), so this is a whole 'nother world for me - makes it a fun read!

Thanks so much for adding the costs for everything - it's very helpful for future planning.

Welcome back to reality!

Thanks again for the comments everyone! It was fun to relive my trip (and thanks, Leely, for pushing me to write this in the first place). Here's the correct photo link again for anyone that missed it http://www.kodakgallery.com/gallery/sharing/shareRedirectSwitchBoard.jsp?token=3027459611105%3A634459534 Sorry for the non-functioning one at the top.

Denise,
I was sorry to hear that you and Chaz both got sick. I really enjoyed your report and the one from last year (it was part of my research).

Nikki,
Are you in the LA area?

For the record, we don't eat anything like this on a day to day basis. We don't even go out to eat that much cause we do a lot of cooking at home. When I said I did some stomach stretching exercises I wasn't kidding! The week before we left we had three 3 course restaurant meals out and of course, there was Thanksgiving to help me along. My first attempt at eating was really pathetic but I got better. This is just how dedicated I am The only problem is now that I'm home, I'm hungry all the time!

My goodness, Patty, I gained 10 pounds just reading this wonderful report. Oh to have a faster metabolism! Great food shots and I'm so jealous of the cooking lessons. Merci!

Sadly, I am on the other side of the continent, but I can get a vicarious taste by reading this report. Thanks.

I had to loosen my belt a notch part-way through this report
Thanks for this.

Also good to have info on classes. Where did you find out about them?

Groan - my stomach hurts just reading about all that food, but at heart I'd love to be able to do the same some day. I think I'd be up for the challenge, but until then, thanks for sharing!

Michel_Paris,
I found out about La Cuisine through David Lebowitz's site http://www.davidlebovitz.com/2005/11/cooking-classes-1/

I stumbled on Un Dimanche's class by accident when I was perusing their website and saw "Cours de Cuisine". I was initially just interested in their pastries.

Was the food life changing? No, but it was very, very good and the whole experience was so enjoyable that we’d gladly do it again and highly recommend it. It was the perfect last meal of the trip! OK it wasn’t the actual last meal. You didn’t think we’d stop there, did ya? But it was the last “real” meal.>>

i'm not sure about le cinq not being life-changing - if only for the seaweed butter! i have never felt the same about butter again! how do they do it?

interesting that you made the same decisions as us on the menu [no cheese for example, one glass of champagne, a bottle of wine] and spent almost exactly the same! and the service is perfection - i had e-mailed to say that e would be a bit later than we had originally booked for as we had tickets for the Monet exhibition, [lucky us] and when we arrived, they asked us about it. ok, lots of places manage to do that, but how many actually manage to sound interested?

I'd love to go back, but DH felt it was really too much to spend on a meal - we could get 3 very good meals for the same price, which I do feel is a very valid point. so on our next visit, we'll be eating well, but not that well!

You're right that seaweed butter WAS life changing! I wanted to dunk the rest in my purse

My totally inexpert opinion: I think Briffard's cooking is extraordinary, very precise, and yes, innovative (for working within what I guess is the classic tradition)--but you went there last! And the portions are not small, to say the least. Neither are the prices. I almost said, "Oh, put it Le Cinq the middle when you'll most appreciate it." But of course sometimes it's so nice to save the luxe meal for the finale.

I have a hankering to return to Le Grande Cascade, such a beautiful setting and such fine food. I just looked at David Lebowitz's photostream of his meal there. I want that high-priced macaroni.

I'm no expert either and may not fully appreciate that style of cooking. I had some difficulty recalling what I ate after we left. I just remembered it was all really enjoyable vs more vivid impressions of some of the other meals we had.

Hi Patty
Thanks for sharing your trip. Going through your pictures was like watching a favorite movie that you hate to see come to an end. You've given me some new ideas for my trip next year.

just been buying some books on amazon, and in order to bring my order within the free delivery, i added a copy of the Paris mapguide, and Paris, city walks.

any foodie books I've missed?

I don't have any book recs. I did all my research online, mainly on Chowhound, Paris by Mouth, Hungry for Paris, John Talbott and the mother of all foodie trips http://uhockey.blogspot.com/2011_04_01_archive.html (and you thought we ate a lot )

Mon dieu! how does he do it?

7 course lunch at le cinq followed by a 3 course meal at night? and all that detail - magnifique!

funny how many of the restaurants are in the 17th - i loved the description of le pre catalan.

most of it I think we would just find too much - as I get older I just can't take it, and DH finds that even more. but I should love to do one of the tasting type menus one night - do you have anywhere that you can recommend?

You might like the carte blanche at Septime. The courses were small so you're not too full at the end of the meal. The atmosphere is casual, don't know if you were looking for something more formal.

We never made it to Sola but I believe they do a 6 course dinner (and maybe even a longer one).

I think the carte blanche at Chez L'Ami Jean would be huge, not sure of Bistro Volnay.

Were you looking for something with even more, smaller courses?

hi patty,

thanks for the ideas. sola looks interesting, i'm not sure about Septime as they don't appear to have a website [or is google letting me down?] Chez l'ami Jean looks more like our sort of place, but I'm still trying to navigate their website - why can't they just tell you what they cook and how much it costs? is that too much to ask?

fortunately we have plenty of time to do the research before we go!

Septime doesn't have a website. I believe the menu changes daily.

Yeah, there's not much on Chez L'Ami Jean's site. They cook a lot of meat Other than the 3 menus (the 3 course had several choices), I think they always have charcuterie and the gigantic entire foie gras for 2 (or 3 or 4). The rest of the a la carte was hand written with 10-12 items. Our starters and mains off the a la carte were each around 40.

thanks, Patty. How far in advance did you make your table reservations?

annhig here is a thread from Chowhound on Chez L'Ami Jean prices from Oct. http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/813137 It isn't definitive since it seems to depend upon what is served in some of the tasting menus.

We will be in Paris the same time as you. I noticed that you mentioned that to Nikki, a friend that we met at a Boston GTG and who lives close by. I might put up a GTG request closer to March and see if we can get a group together.

annhig,
I started making reservations about a month out but tinkered with it until about a week out. I think the last reservation I made was for Bistro Volnay and I changed the date of our Septime dinner 2 weeks out.

That Chowhound thread is a bit strange cause the 2 tasting menus were clearly indicated on the carte to be 55 and 80. Their carte is a big book filled with cartoons that doesn't look like it would be reprinted often but perhaps the actual price really does depend on the mood of Jego The 3 course (with choices) was printed on a small inserted leaflet and the rest of the a la carte was on a separate hand written board.

I might put up a GTG request closer to March and see if we can get a group together.>>

AGM - sounds like a great idea - i think that Nikki and I have fixed on the monday night as being the only available time that we have that overlaps. hopefully that would suit you too.

Patty - what you say chimes in with the comments on the chowhound board link AGM has given - I'm not sure about the "bonus" though!

annhig- I will leave Monday open for a GTG. Our schedule isn't as structured as Nikki's.

AGM - w'll have to try to work something out nearer the time.

I just discovered Chez L'Ami Jean posts their a la carte on their facebook page www.facebook.com/LAMIJEAN

Patty, thanks for that. I had heard that recently but I had been so many places on the internet I could remember where I saw it.

patty- they show a "menu a tout toute" at the top of the page - any idea what that is?

they were showing one dish as costing €120 [ok it was for 2 but still] - any ideas what made it so special?

would this make a good place for a birthday dinner for DH do you think?

Sorry, I must be blind. I'm not finding the "menu a tout toute". Is it hand written?

Was the 120 for the wagyu cote de beouf? I believe it's because it's wagyu beef. I think the regular cote de beouf for 2 is 90.

I don't know what your DH likes but it's fun, lively, loud, cramped (but not more so that some other places) and has yummy food (and lots of it).

patty - it's right at the top on the right above the cours du jour no 60! [BTW, get those pigs!]

in fact I had another look and it's "menu a tout Truffles", which explains the €100 price tag

i have heard of wagyu beef but never eaten it. not sure that i'd want to splash out that much; there are so many other good choices.

Wagyu is divine. It's one of the few times I'll order beef in a restaurant. I don't like ordering dishes for 2 though as we like to try different things. Like you said so many other good choices.

Bookmarking, so I can read on my way to Paris! Thanks Patty.

Bookmarking- great report!

I'm making a list and checking it twice----too bad I won't be there on Christmas. The food photos will have to do until next Sept.

Official Chocolate Tasting Results:

Our clear favorites were Jacques Genin and Jean-Paul Hevin. We also quite liked the spice and herb Richart. The rest (Patrick Roger, Michel Cluizel, La Maison du Chocolat) were fine but didn't wow us. To maintain impartiality our own truffles that we made at Un Dimanche were excluded from judging

By the end of this week I'll be out of chocolates

By the end of this week I'll be out of chocolates>>

you'll just have to go back then!

I enjoyed your report and pictures very much. And, I took notes!

ttt

<you'll just have to go back then!>

We're going back in March, yippee! I just put flights on hold and we'll arrive on the 12th (I'll post in the GTG thread too). Planning to dine less extravagantly this time around, mostly bistro/wine bar-ish type places. Currently considering Les Papilles, Au Passage, L'Office and I have to go back to Neva for their chocolate sphere! Maybe Sola for lunch since we had to cancel last time. L'Auberge du 15 sort of intrigues me, again maybe for lunch. Thinking of spending an afternoon at the Omnivore food fest. Not sure if we'll be totally lost being non-French speakers though. Anyone have any thoughts on the places I'm considering? Any other suggestions? After Paris I think we'll head to Reims so any suggestions there would be appreciated as well. I fear we'll bankrupt ourselves at the champagne houses

annhig,
Did you decide on a birthday dinner location?

annhig,
Did you decide on a birthday dinner location?>>

well, I've been considering this place

http://www.pointbulles.com/introduction/home.html

as it combines both oysters and champagne which are respectively DH's favourite food and drink, but they do what looks like an excellent sunday brunch, so we may go for this instead:

http://huitrerieregis.com/resto.html, though that looks like a good place for friday night before we go to the comedie francaise.

so the answer is no, not really. we like bistro food, and would prefer to be able to walk "home" - we staying near the RER St. michel stop. and as you say there is the food festival though that might prove a bit too much for DH if not me!

any ideas gratefully received.

and place join us at the GTG - we haven't decided where to go for that, either!

Oh their brunch does sound good. Tapas and champagne sounds good too. Heck, anything with champagne sounds good

Thanks, you've given me an idea for Sunday. I think we'll leave for Reims late that afternoon or early evening.

Thanks, you've given me an idea for Sunday. I think we'll leave for Reims late that afternoon or early evening.>>

patty- glad to oblige. lots of the brunches I've seen amount to no more than glorified breakfasts with a hot course to justify doubling the price.

now can you solve my saturday evening problem? please?

Les Papilles isn't that far but I've not eaten there (yet) http://www.lespapillesparis.fr/ I believe it's also a no choice 4 course at dinner.

funny patty - it's really near where we stayed 2 years ago the first time we had tickets for the rugby, and we missed it.

it's right up by the jardins du luxembourg, I think - at the top of the hill. as my object in staying near the St michel RER stop is to avoid walking up that hill ever again, I don't think I fancy it, much. looks like a nice lunch place though.

Did you rule out L'Ami Jean? Too far? Too much food? I selfishly want you to go there, order the petit voyaguer and tell me if it's manageable

Oh my. I'm thinking of a week in Paris near Xmas and I may have to try some of your recos!

It's a great time of year!

Bookmarking.

And as a fellow Southern California food-admirer, Patty, I must say I'm impressed!

Reading this too late as the photos are not available WAAAAAH!

Here's an updated photo link after the pics were transferred to Shutterfly share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=0AZNnDlk5YtmbCKA

Unfortunately, the order of the photos got mixed up during the transfer and a few of the pics are still missing.