A month in Normandy (Rouen): calling Normandy afficionados
May 26th, 2015, 04:08 PM
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A month in Normandy (Rouen): calling Normandy afficionados
Hi wonderful Fodorites!
I recently changed my plans for the summer to spending one month in Normandy, taking French lessons, instead of doing a TEFL course in Prague (I know not at all the same things, but long story). I'll be in a little town called Rouen for my time in Normandy, with a home base there while I attend my french language courses 5 hours a day
I have found some great reccos for Normandy from both a French friend and stuff I've found on here, but am wondering in particular if any folks have specific reccos for restaurants (that are extremely memorable and excellent ), speciality foods or drinks (special cider producer or cider tasting place, etc)
AND reccos for how to get around affordably by train (tix are getting crazy expensive these days!). I don't understand whether I can go the places I need to go if I buy a Railpass of some sort or whether I'll end up having to buy regular tickets anyways?! I have to go to Avignon for a wknd ($150-$200 tickets RT right now on SNCF site) would love to go to Avignon for 2 wknds (i have research to do there) and maybe Paris one wknd. I've already purchased a $200 RT train ticket from London to Rouen so I'm getting a bit annoyed at how much I'll be spending on trains on this trip.
suggestions welcome and appreciated
Me: I'm a wine industry veteran and a pickie foodie. I love simple, but high quality ingredients. I love the outdoors, being active, being beautifiul scenic places and seeing old crumbling buildings
. I really really like not doing the big main stuff and just focusing on living like a local (thus the language lessosn and choosing a small town). I have no money really, but manage to travel well when I do travel due to renting apartments, packing my own lunch many days and eating outdoors (saving for 1 meal out per day) and being super savvy about transportation. I don't buy gifts or do luxurious things like rent a driver or tour guide. I do love driving and will take 1 opportunity to rent a car for a wknd during my trip (can't afford more)
Thank You
I recently changed my plans for the summer to spending one month in Normandy, taking French lessons, instead of doing a TEFL course in Prague (I know not at all the same things, but long story). I'll be in a little town called Rouen for my time in Normandy, with a home base there while I attend my french language courses 5 hours a day
I have found some great reccos for Normandy from both a French friend and stuff I've found on here, but am wondering in particular if any folks have specific reccos for restaurants (that are extremely memorable and excellent ), speciality foods or drinks (special cider producer or cider tasting place, etc)
AND reccos for how to get around affordably by train (tix are getting crazy expensive these days!). I don't understand whether I can go the places I need to go if I buy a Railpass of some sort or whether I'll end up having to buy regular tickets anyways?! I have to go to Avignon for a wknd ($150-$200 tickets RT right now on SNCF site) would love to go to Avignon for 2 wknds (i have research to do there) and maybe Paris one wknd. I've already purchased a $200 RT train ticket from London to Rouen so I'm getting a bit annoyed at how much I'll be spending on trains on this trip.
suggestions welcome and appreciated
Me: I'm a wine industry veteran and a pickie foodie. I love simple, but high quality ingredients. I love the outdoors, being active, being beautifiul scenic places and seeing old crumbling buildings
. I really really like not doing the big main stuff and just focusing on living like a local (thus the language lessosn and choosing a small town). I have no money really, but manage to travel well when I do travel due to renting apartments, packing my own lunch many days and eating outdoors (saving for 1 meal out per day) and being super savvy about transportation. I don't buy gifts or do luxurious things like rent a driver or tour guide. I do love driving and will take 1 opportunity to rent a car for a wknd during my trip (can't afford more)Thank You
May 26th, 2015, 04:24 PM
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Well, I Rouen itself isn't that large, but...
You might enjoy lunch at bistro Le 37, 37 rue St- Étienne-des-Tonneliers. There's also le Bistrot de Panurge on Rue Ecuyère. Or you can enjoy sausage & onions on market day.
You might enjoy lunch at bistro Le 37, 37 rue St- Étienne-des-Tonneliers. There's also le Bistrot de Panurge on Rue Ecuyère. Or you can enjoy sausage & onions on market day.
May 26th, 2015, 04:58 PM
#3
Click on Destinations at the top of this page, Europe>France>Normandy> Rouen,
you'll find some helpful information on Rouen. Have a wonderful experience there.
Try to vist Honfleur and Bayeux too.
you'll find some helpful information on Rouen. Have a wonderful experience there.
Try to vist Honfleur and Bayeux too.
May 26th, 2015, 05:50 PM
#4
I loved my dinner at La Couronne (1345 House). So did Julia Child apparently. The place to have canard à la rouennaise. Also recommended by the NY Times.
31 Place du Vieux Marché
+33 2 35 71 40 90"
www.lacouronne.com.fr
I agree to try to visit Honfleur... for an overnight if possible. Maybe that's when you rent the car. Lots of abbeys to see in between the two locations.
31 Place du Vieux Marché
+33 2 35 71 40 90"
www.lacouronne.com.fr
I agree to try to visit Honfleur... for an overnight if possible. Maybe that's when you rent the car. Lots of abbeys to see in between the two locations.
May 26th, 2015, 10:09 PM
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"So did Julia Child apparently." With enough wine, Julia enjoyed everything!
If you do nothing else, you have to visit the Normandy beaches (www.pinterest.com/sanfermines/omaha-beach/)
If you do nothing else, you have to visit the Normandy beaches (www.pinterest.com/sanfermines/omaha-beach/)
May 26th, 2015, 10:29 PM
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For any train travel using TGV and most (not all) Intercités trains you need to buy tickets up to 3 months in advance for the cheapest prices. The local TER trains have fixed fares. You can look at the links below to see maps of the train network for Upper and Lower Normandy:
http://cdn.ter.sncf.com/medias/PDF/h...cm59-14671.pdf
http://cdn.ter.sncf.com/medias/PDF/b...cm53-11191.pdf
Rail passes are rarely a good idea in France as seats are limited for pass holders and there can be large reservation fees.
Here is some general info about traveling by public transport in France:
There are three types of websites you'll need to get familiar with using: 1) train websites 2) bus websites 3) tourist office websites.
Look at this link to see a map of where the regional and long distance trains go in France:
http://www.bueker.net/trainspotting/...ch-network.gif
Here is a map of TGV train lines in France:
http://medias.sncf.com/sncfcom/pdf/d..._ReseauTGV.pdf
Here is a map of Intercités train lines in France:
http://www.developpement-durable.gou...e-20140227.pdf
To see maps of the local train routes for each region go to www.ter-sncf.com and look at the map of France on the right side of the page. Hover your mouse over the region that interests you and click on it. Scroll down to the bottom of the page. Each region will set up its page a little differently but under the various topics and headings at the bottom look for the words, or combinations of words, that include “carte réseau” or “carte” or “réseau”. Sometimes you won't see any of these words and in that case try looking under the topics in “Services & Gares”. For example, in the Provence region you look under “Services & Gares” and click the topic “a votre service”. Then scroll down the page and you'll see “Carte du Réseau TER PACA”.
You can use the TER website to search train schedules and prices in each region but it is in French only. You can also use the SNCF website to search for schedules and prices. Keep in mind that for any train journey that requires a TGV train and most Intercités trains you will get the cheapest prices by booking three months in advance. Last minute fares for these trains will be the most expensive. The TER trains are local trains and have fixed prices and no reservations are needed.
To buy train tickets and check schedules and prices for anyplace in France you can use www.capitainetrain.com. Remember, buy tickets up to 3 months in advance for TGV and Intercités trains. You can also use www.voyages-sncf.com for the same purpose but it has a tendency to redirect people to the RailEurope site, which should be avoided as it has higher prices and doesn't show all available trains.
Look at this link for bus info. It has a list of all the départements in France so find the département that interests you and click on the link and you'll be directed to the bus website for that département.
http://www.itransports.fr/fr/reseau/departement
You also need to learn how to use tourist office websites. You should google the tourist office websites for any region, département, city, town or village you may want to visit. You will find loads of info on these websites including hotel/accommodation and restaurant info as well as what to see and do in the area. Occasionally the websites have English versions. In doing a google search enter the words "office de tourisme" followed by the name of your region, département, city, town or village and this will bring that place to the top of your search.
http://cdn.ter.sncf.com/medias/PDF/h...cm59-14671.pdf
http://cdn.ter.sncf.com/medias/PDF/b...cm53-11191.pdf
Rail passes are rarely a good idea in France as seats are limited for pass holders and there can be large reservation fees.
Here is some general info about traveling by public transport in France:
There are three types of websites you'll need to get familiar with using: 1) train websites 2) bus websites 3) tourist office websites.
Look at this link to see a map of where the regional and long distance trains go in France:
http://www.bueker.net/trainspotting/...ch-network.gif
Here is a map of TGV train lines in France:
http://medias.sncf.com/sncfcom/pdf/d..._ReseauTGV.pdf
Here is a map of Intercités train lines in France:
http://www.developpement-durable.gou...e-20140227.pdf
To see maps of the local train routes for each region go to www.ter-sncf.com and look at the map of France on the right side of the page. Hover your mouse over the region that interests you and click on it. Scroll down to the bottom of the page. Each region will set up its page a little differently but under the various topics and headings at the bottom look for the words, or combinations of words, that include “carte réseau” or “carte” or “réseau”. Sometimes you won't see any of these words and in that case try looking under the topics in “Services & Gares”. For example, in the Provence region you look under “Services & Gares” and click the topic “a votre service”. Then scroll down the page and you'll see “Carte du Réseau TER PACA”.
You can use the TER website to search train schedules and prices in each region but it is in French only. You can also use the SNCF website to search for schedules and prices. Keep in mind that for any train journey that requires a TGV train and most Intercités trains you will get the cheapest prices by booking three months in advance. Last minute fares for these trains will be the most expensive. The TER trains are local trains and have fixed prices and no reservations are needed.
To buy train tickets and check schedules and prices for anyplace in France you can use www.capitainetrain.com. Remember, buy tickets up to 3 months in advance for TGV and Intercités trains. You can also use www.voyages-sncf.com for the same purpose but it has a tendency to redirect people to the RailEurope site, which should be avoided as it has higher prices and doesn't show all available trains.
Look at this link for bus info. It has a list of all the départements in France so find the département that interests you and click on the link and you'll be directed to the bus website for that département.
http://www.itransports.fr/fr/reseau/departement
You also need to learn how to use tourist office websites. You should google the tourist office websites for any region, département, city, town or village you may want to visit. You will find loads of info on these websites including hotel/accommodation and restaurant info as well as what to see and do in the area. Occasionally the websites have English versions. In doing a google search enter the words "office de tourisme" followed by the name of your region, département, city, town or village and this will bring that place to the top of your search.
May 27th, 2015, 09:44 AM
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Rouen isn't really a little town, so be prepared, it's over 100,000 population.
for local trips, a railpass won't be cost effective and French trains aren't that expensive if you buy some fares in advance (like to Avignon). If you can plan those longer trips in advance, you can cut costs a lot. Trains to Paris aren't expensive, only about 15 euro even when you don't buy far in advance. Some times of day are cheaper than others, if you want to save a few euro, just check the schedule.
for local trips, a railpass won't be cost effective and French trains aren't that expensive if you buy some fares in advance (like to Avignon). If you can plan those longer trips in advance, you can cut costs a lot. Trains to Paris aren't expensive, only about 15 euro even when you don't buy far in advance. Some times of day are cheaper than others, if you want to save a few euro, just check the schedule.
May 27th, 2015, 12:04 PM
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Frenchmystiquetours-
what a wealth of good info, thank you!
I have bought quite a few tickets in past through SNCF and do know that 3 mo ahead is optimum, but unfortunately it is almost always impossible to make those detailed of plans that far in advance for me. I'm dealing with friends coming from different cities in France to meet me in Avignon, etc.
Unfortunately no matter what way I slice it, it looks like I'll be paying through the nose for my travel around France on trains if I want to get where I'm going when I need to be there
but I will def check out the tourist offices, and the capitainetrain site I'm sure I'll find a ton of good info there. I have a whole month in Rouen where I'll get to try out restaurants for lunch or dinner every day
Merci!
Brooke
what a wealth of good info, thank you!
I have bought quite a few tickets in past through SNCF and do know that 3 mo ahead is optimum, but unfortunately it is almost always impossible to make those detailed of plans that far in advance for me. I'm dealing with friends coming from different cities in France to meet me in Avignon, etc.
Unfortunately no matter what way I slice it, it looks like I'll be paying through the nose for my travel around France on trains if I want to get where I'm going when I need to be there
but I will def check out the tourist offices, and the capitainetrain site I'm sure I'll find a ton of good info there. I have a whole month in Rouen where I'll get to try out restaurants for lunch or dinner every day
Merci!
Brooke
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