Thanks to all who provided advice on our recent trip that included Amsterdam, and especially the transportation portions!
We (DH, 11yo DD and myself) visited Amsterdam two weeks ago, and had a great time, despite chilly (to us) weather and a bit of rain. We were there for three nights as part of a 10-day trip that also included Belgium and Paris. DH had visited previously, a LONG time ago; it was the first time for DD and me.
Short summary: a nice visit, I'd like to return, probably as part of a trip that included time in the Dutch countryside. Due to the time of year of our trip, a city-only vacation seemed the better decision - and based on the weather, it was the best way to go this time.
I was pleasantly surprised, partly because I’d heard that Amsterdam was a bit seedy and run-down, that we all found Amsterdam to be charming and beautiful. I loved the sturdy, prosperous brick buildings with the variety of roof outlines, particularly the step gables. The buildings reminded me of those we've seen in Newburyport, Massachusetts. The city was quiet, even with thousands of bicycles whizzing by. We spent very little time in the Red Light District or around ‘Dam Square, and a lot of time in the Jordaan areas and nearby; that probably influenced our impression of the city.
Our hotel, Hotel Aalders, Jan Luykenstraat 13-15, was in the museum area, which I found beautiful as well, and I loved its residential character. The local elementary school was down the street, and we got to see the parents biking their children to school.
Our focus on this trip was art museums, food and people-watching. Even though the Rijksmuseum is (still) undergoing extensive renovations, we spent over two hours viewing the highlights collection. I found the Golden Age portion of the exhibit very helpful in reminding DD of the international influence that Holland had during that time period. l love Vermeer, and the Rijksmuseum has four of them, though one is away being renovated.
The Van Gogh museum has been a trip destination goal for years, and we loved it. DD liked seeing Van Gogh's work, and life, in chronological order. It added a lot to her understanding and appreciation of him, and how any artist's work can change over time.
We also visited the Amstelkring, the Rembrandtuis and the Museum Willet-Holthuysen. We all like what we call “house museums.” Of the three, I think we enjoyed Rembrandt’s house the best, to see his etchings and one painting there on loan, but even more so, to see a fairly typical house of that time period. We didn’t make it to the Dutch Resistance Museum – guess we’ll have to return!
We did visit the Anne Frank house. DD had (despite my nagging) only read about 1/2 of Anne Frank’s diary, so I felt it was even more important for her to visit. The informative displays, I felt, were very good; I especially appreciated the quotes from Anne’s diary. DD didn’t say much about the experience, but sometimes those kinds of impressions on kids surface later.
Everything you’ve ever heard about the bicycles in Amsterdam is true – I’d warned DH and DD, but I guess they didn’t really believe me until they almost got run down several times in the first 10 minutes of walking around. We saw one collision between a car, a bike and a pedi-cab – nobody was hurt. I especially loved the bakfiets, a bike with a sort of cargo box between the handlebars and front wheels (google it), mostly used for transporting children.
I purchased tickets in advance, online, for the Rijksmuseum and the Van Gogh Museum, which was very handy. There was no line at the Rijksmuseum, but a short-ish line at the Van Gogh Museum (right as they opened; I noticed the line was quite long as we left), but it was still helpful. We had also purchased tickets for the Anne Frank house ahead of time, and there was a long line for this, even in late October.
Everyone in Amsterdam that we spoke to did speak English, with very little accent. People seem to greet each other by saying "Hi" or "Hello," which kind of threw me, as I didn't know whether they were greeting me in English or Dutch, if that makes sense. Not all words on menus were translated, though, so I was glad I'd brought a little cheat sheet that I'd made up.
Next, a summary about our dining, drinking and snacking experiences...
A Little Report on Amsterdam
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We were in Amsterdam Oct. 5-7, and this sounds like our trip. We too stayed at the Aalders and did the museum thing, as well as almost getting run down by bicylcists! A very nice city!
Enjoying this report!
Tom18 - Isn't the Aalder on a pleasant street?
I’m a foodie, so I have to give a brief summary of our food and dining experiences (I’m in the “local cuisine” foodie group, not the high-end, expensive camp). The Dutch seem to be practical people, and so is their food. That was ok, though we found lunch choices to be a little bare-bones for our usual tastes.
The Dutch pancakes, called poffertjes, were delicious - we had them for lunch and for a snack. They’re puffy, dollar-sized pancakes, more doughy than typical American pancakes. Have them with a little molasses (stroop), as the Dutch do. We ate at 't Singeltje Old Dutch Pancake House, Singel 494, old-fashioned and cozy, perfect for a chilly day.
‘t Smalle, Egelantiersgracht 12, was also a delight. It is small – climb the ladder-like stairs to the additional “mezzanine” seating, overlooking the rest of the bar, for drinks and/or small dishes. They also have tables outside, right on the canal (order and obtain your drinks inside).
Winkel, Noordermarkt 32, had fantastic appelgebak, which you could translate as apple pie or apple tart, but I would say was more like an apple cake, but more doughy and moist, almost like an apple pudding. This place was constantly packed, both indoors and out.
Café Schiller, Rembrandtplein 36 was a bar/café with a more adult feel, with lovely Art Deco décor and (American) jazz playing in the background. Totally appropriate for kids, though – ours wasn’t the only one there. Very good beer selection.
De Prins, Prinsengracht 124, was a good dinner destination. Also cozy, but bigger than ‘t Smalle, with tables for dinner in back and bar seating in front. DH and DD shared a fondue – we meant to order it for two people, but they misunderstood, and gave us a serving for one, which was more than enough. We also tried the shrimp croquettes, which seem to be on every menu in Amsterdam; those at De Prins were mostly Gouda cheese, with a little shrimp. I had the Dutch dish of hutspot; good thing I knew what it was, as the description the waiter gave wasn’t quite accurate. It’s a tasty “comfort dish” of mashed potatoes, pieces of carrots, cabbage and bacon, and, at De Prins, topped with sausages. The portion was huge.
Le Pecheur, Reguliersdwarsstraat 32, was our nicer meal. It was a lovely, not-too-formal seafood dinner, and everything we ate was excellent. We particularly liked the house-made smoked salmon and the langoustine soup. My sea bass, from local sources, was delicious.
Vleminckx French Fries, Voetboogstraat 33. I know, we were in Amsterdam! They were pretty good, but we all thought the fries we had in Brussels were better, and the Belgian version of the sauce was much better than the Dutch version. But still a nice snack; we joined the long but quick-moving line of Dutch to buy our cones of fries.
The Orient, Van Baerlestraat 21, was our rijstaffel (rice table) dinner. We had originally planned to go to Restaurant Blauw, but that was farther away, and the Orient was just down the street and recommended by our hotel. Now, it could be that we ate at a substandard rijstaffel place, but neither DH or I was greatly impressed by the experience. We regularly eat quite a bit of Asian food, primarily Indian, so Asian food was not a novelty for us, though we’ve never had Indonesian food (though, of course, rijstaffel isn’t Indonesian either – it’s the Dutch version of it). And Indian, Thai, Malasian and Indonesian are two different cuisines, though many ingredients and even dishes are similar (for example, we received eggrolls and satay with peanut sauce). Nothing was very spicy, and it just seemed like various things in various sauces. Which is, I guess, what rijstaffel is, basically. It was good to try once, but someone who’s familiar with Asian food may not find it so interesting (at least if they go to The Orient).
Pastries that we liked, which we bought at the bakery down the street from our hotel and at the supermarket, were pepernoten (the Dutch version of pfeffernuss, I think) and speculaas, a lightly-cinnamon flavored cookie that is found everywhere. Often, one cookie would be served when we ordered hot chocolate or coffee. Neither are for those who like their sweets very sweet, but I found them very tasty. I regret not buying more of each of these items to bring home!
Very nice report, thank you! I spent a couple of days in Amsterdam this past June after having only visited for an afternoon one December. Try it again when it's light so late--you'll love it.
Nice report. The hub and I were in Amsterdam for the first time just last week. We only had about 2.5 days so it was just a scouting trip, but we decided we definitely will return! We stayed on the Singhel canal at the Hotel Brouwer, which we liked very much.
The people in Amsterdam were all friendly and helpful and spoke wonderful English.
Would you agree that Amsterdam at night rivals Paris for beauty by illumination? The yellow streetlights and canal bridges and tunnels lit with rows of bulbs... so pretty!!
I have posted looking for a hotel near the cruise terminal. Does this make sense? Or should we just focus on a certain area of town? We want to do the museums and Anne Frank prior to departing on a cruise. Only have three days. Help appreciated.