ps. Just thought of two more questions!

Q: Any tips on non-sightseeing experiences would be great, too. For instance, a watercolor class. Or a cooking class. That sort of thing.

Thank you.

Groan: the second Q:

Ravello. I almost chose this as my landing point for a few nights, but in researching I realized I'd be moving around too much if I added that unless I made it a two night stop at the end of the trip and had the driver take me from there to the airport.

Will I severely shortchange Ravello if it's just an afternoon visit, maybe lunch on a terrace overlooking the sea? Would it be crazy to make that a final two nights (one less in Positano) and have a driver take me to the airport from there?

I will have a driver transport me each time I am carrying luggage with me, so it doesn't matter if I have a driver take me from Positano to Sorrento and then Sorrento airport, or Positano to Ravello to airport.

I have yet to visit an area of Italy that I haven't added to the "must return" list so if I don't get to do a certain thing I'll be back.

What do you plan to do besides hike?

IMHO Pompeii is one of the wonders of the world and not to be missed but will take most of a day. Naples also has a great archeo museum (but I would do anything rather than hike).

The blue grotto is worth seeing - but do realize that the experience is a short one - you climb into a rowboat, lay down, shoot through the entrance, do a quick circle and then back out. I believe the only way to spend more time is to swim in and out - but you need to be very careful f all the bots in and out. You can also take a private boat trip around the island and see all of the scenery plus other grottoes (we didn;t).

Not sure of hikes. We toured Capri town (mobbed in the day but adorable at night) and visited some of the Roman ruins on the island - a walk but not what I would call a hike. But we didn;t have 3 days.

In late May hotel pools should be open and the sea OK for swimming as long as you don;t want hot water.

nytraveler, thanks.

I am definitely visiting Pompeii, Herculaneum, and Paestum. Those are certainties and likely to be two full days out of this trip - mainland days, since I already know that three days are on Capri.

I do know about Naples archeo museum, so the main reasons I would spend my last day in Naples is that museum, pizza, and some wanderings in some interesting neighborhoods. Which may well be enough of a reason to spend the last day there - but wouldn't Sorrento be more pleasant? This won't be my last trip to the area.

Roman ruins - I am there!

What else do I plan to do? With all that time in Positano probably a lot of poking around Positano. I have four full days there (with 5 nights) and I already know two of them will be the day trips. I like boats so I might spent a lot of time seeing where the ferries will take me.

I heard that Da Adolpho is a good restaurant and experience - apparently you take a boat to it?

I would be interested to hear about experiences such as classes (cooking, watercolor, etc) as mentioned.

I also plan to peruse ekscrunchy's report for some good restaurants!

Thanks!

Q: Blue grotto: must do/do not miss it, or, don't lose sleep over it?

Since there is not too much else to do on Capri it is advisable to see the Blue Grotto. However, there is an alternative: the Grotta dello Smeraldo - Emerald Grotto which is in some ways even more attractive than the Blue Grotto.

http://www.wondermondo.com/Countries/E/IT/Campania/GrottaSmeraldo.htm

See at least one of the grottos (the one which fits into your itinerary better).

I loved Naples and vote you spend your last day there to get a taste of it. I also love Ravello and at least spend an afternoon and dine there. There is a bus you can take to Ravello. U get the ferry from Positano to Amlafi and get the bus there. Try to go mid week as I think it my be less crowded.
One of our favorite restaurants on the Amalfi coast is DaConstantino
http://www.dacostantino.com/inglese.htm
- its about 10 minutes out of town up a hill. they will pick you up and return you. We discovered it on our first trip to Positano maybe 20 years ago. We were talking to the daughter who is now in her 20's and laughing that she was the little girl running around when we first started eating there.
I thought the Blue Grotto pretty so why not check it out? If you miss it I wouldn't worry about it.
There is a thread from I believe Rosetravels who did hiking on the coast. she make have some good ideas for you.

Judging from the time it took us to go from Sorrento to the Naples airport by hired driver last May, you should not plan on doing anything on the way to the airport except navigating traffic slowdowns.

We had planned on doing a boat tour around capri (including the Grotto) but there was a strike that day, so no help from me there. The descriptions of the tour were quite attractive, for what it's worth.

Pompeii and Herculaneum made for a long day for us non-hikers, but very well worth it. Start early so you get enough time. It would also be a loss not to see the Archological Museum in Naples, as the impressive art and artefacts from Pompeii and Herculaneum are there (half day). It was easy to plan all three on 2 different days as we were based in Sorrento, which is better situated for these daytrips. You may want to combine the Naples museum with Herculaneum on one day and Pompeii (and perhaps Vesuvius) on another.

We walked Capri and Anacapri, but did not do hotels. Capri is uniformly upscale and beautiful, Anacapri more varied (to us, more interesting), and quickly connected by bus.

We found Sorrento to be an excellent base for public transport (train, bus, and water) and from my distant memories of a drive along the Amalfi coast many years ago, I would never consider driving myself.

I'll try to answer some:

Blue Grotto: Don't try to swim in. In May there probably will be a long backup to get into the BG. Consider hiring a boat in Positano to take you to Capri, with stops in some of the smaller grottoes and a tour of the island.

Car: You can make do in Positano w/o one. The better public transportation is in Sorrento, if you're thinking of going to Pompeii or some other site off the AC.

Ravello: It's nice, but I wouldn't spend more than a day there. Matter of opinion, I guess.

Cooking class: I know there is one in Positano because it's conducted in a glass front kitchen that's open to the street and passers-by. Looked like fun. Sorry, can't remember the name, but maybe if you Google "cooking classes, Positano," something might come up.

From Amalfi you can hike up to Ravello and back down. Don't know how long it would take. All your responses here seem to be from non-hikers.

Also exploring Capri could be considered hiking. Here's some info, including the walk to Tiberius' villa: www.capri.net/en/itineraries.

Have you considered spending your last night in Naples? Much safer for catching your flight and an opportunity to visit the archeological museum, a must-see given your interests.

I think you've underestimated the possibility of problems in your route to the Naples airport and overestimated the ability of Italians to clear up such issues. Unlikely, yes, but what happens if you miss your flight? Will you have to buy another ticket, a full-fare ticket? And wait for the next flight with empty seats? In Italy I always recommend being in your departure city the night before your flight.

Speaking of the Naples airport, if that is where you fly out of allow plenty of time. We got there very early and still almost didn't make our flight. there is absolutely no order and people are pushing and shoving their way into lines. Beldam. I have never seen anything quite like it.

I think Naples is like any major international airport - you need to get there 3 hours in advance if you are flying to the US. Less than that is a real risk.

We stayed in Sorrento - since we like larger towns - more shops and restaurants - and easy to get to anywhere from there, WE had a car both times - and in May it was fine - but our hotel had free parking.

We drove the coast road in both directions, stopping at different places each time. It's not a difficult drive if you are competent, confident drivers -but do know EXACTLY how big your car is - and be prepared to parallel park on ether side in a place barely bigger than the car. (Caveat: To New Yorkers driving around for 20 minutes trying to find a place to put a car is normal - not a problem.)

@nytraveler-I have to disagree with u re Naples airport. We were there well over three hours in advance and it was chaos. I fly a lot and have never seen such a disorganized check in and security. so maybe we hiit it on an ESP bad day, but it was way worse than any airport i have ever been in. Perhaps the check in could be blamed on Lufthansa, there was almost a riot among the Germans waiting in line as many were going to other lanes and cutting ahead of people waiting for well over an hour. At security people were tossing their suitcases to others in line and then pushing and shoving ahead of others practically walking over them. BTw we were flying to Frankfurt for our flight home to the US so not even an international flight.

>>>I think Naples is like any major international airport - you need to get there 3 hours in advance if you are flying to the US. Less than that is a real risk.<<<

Naples is quite small, a regional airport. 1 1/2 hours will be sufficient. However, the risk is getting to Naples. If you order a limousine, it might be late or does not come at all. It is Southern Italy.

It might be a good idea to spend the morning in the archeological museum of Naples and take a taxi to the airport at 11:00.

We hiked from Ravello down to Atrani/Amalfi. It's about four miles, lots of steps, but doing it down only took a little over an hour. I would not have wanted to do it going up. In Ravello the two Villas (Rufulo and Cimbrone) were worth doing but other than that the town is very tiny so you can walk across it a couple of times in just an hour or so. Look at my photos, they show quite a few parts of the hike down from Ravello.

On Capri we hiked down from Anacapri to the waterfront, that was another good hike that I am glad I took going down instead of up.

Almost didn't do the blue grotto because I thought it was "too touristy" - one of the highlights of that trip (which was probably my favorite trip to Europe - and I've done 22 so far so that's saying something).

My trip report details some of the hikes, the name of the book we used (Sunflower or something like that, had lots of detailed hikes in it), and everything else we did in our 8 days there.

http://www.fodors.com/community/europe/amalfi-coast-rome-and-croatia-images-of-three-hot-but-wonderful-weeks.cfm

http://www.pbase.com/annforcier/italy_amalfi_coast_capri_naples__pompeii

http://www.fodors.com/community/europe/blue-grotto-is-amazing.cfm

What you describe is clearly an unsafe situation and should have been hauled under control by airline security. I have been through a huge number of airports many dozens of times and although I have seen a few people try to jump lines - they were all summarily dealt with.

However, I have seen the situation you describe in a couple of places in italy - including banks. No lines, nor order - just people pushing forward. The answer there was simple - use my NY subway skills - shoulders and elbows and a large intimidating companion - to get to the front of the mob in what seemed the appropriate time.

I would not try this in ANY airport.

Will you be going on the same flight this time? If so - I would get there early enough to be through the system before the mob arrives - and not have to worry about the chaos.

The trip to Paestum will take almost an entire day. Ferry from Pos to Salerno and then train from Salerno to Paestum. Amazing site and nice little museum. When you buy your train ticket in Salerno, be sure to buy your return ticket because I think the Paestum train station is unmanned.

Da Adolfo is a great restaurant and a wonderful way to spend most of one day. You catch the small boat with the red fish on its mast at the dock in Pos. It is about a 10 minute boat ride to Laurito beach, where Da Adolfo is located. You can rent a sun lounger and relax for a while, then grab a table at the restaurant and have a great lunch and take the boat back whenever you are ready (I think they run every 30 minutes or so).

I know Buca di Bacco has a cooking class, as I am considering taking it when I am there in June.

One activity I recommend in Pos is to take a tour with Christine of www.discoverpositano.com. It is a 2 hour tour of the town, and you learn loads of history about the area, get to sample local products made by her husband's family and then you get discounts at certain merchants if you do some shopping later. It is a great thing to do when you first arrive, to get yourself educated and orientated.

Another walk that I would like to do sometime is through the valley of the water mills around the town of Amalfi. You could combine it with the Ravello day trip (which involves a ferry to Amalfi and a bus up to Ravello).

There is good public transportation, so no need for a car. In addition to the traffic, parking is scarce and expensive.

Have a great trip!

You've already gotten lots of great advice! My two cents:

Q: Should I look to Capri or Anacapri for my three nights?

Each has good people-watching options in the evening (at least assuming the weather is good). Capri is more upscale. Both are worth considering as places to stay. Definitely visit both!

Q: Blue grotto: must do/do not miss it, or, don't lose sleep over it?

If it's open when you're there, go for it! I did it as part of a boat ride around the island, which I loved.

Q: So far I'm thinking "no car".

Makes sense to me!

> I imagine a full day will be taken with Pompeii and Herculaneum, from Positano, and a second day with Paestum (which I'll combine with other sightseeing).

It is possible to visit both Pompeii and Herculaneum in a single day, but IME it does make for a LONG day! Getting to/from and visiting Paestum will take the better part of a day. IF you can fit in a bit of time for Salerno, it is worth seeing IMHO, but Salerno shuts down mid-day for a long siesta, so it might not work out.

Q: I'm not convinced either way on spending my last night in Naples.

As others are saying, do you really want to risk a problem getting to your departure flight? If anything prevents you from reaching the airport, the result would be costly! And there is SO much to see in Naples! (NOT just the wonderful archeological museum.) I know that many people don't like Naples, but I did - I thought it vibrant and dynamic and filled with hidden treasures.

> Will I severely shortchange Ravello if it's just an afternoon visit

Ravello was my favorite place on the Amalfi Coast and one of my favorite places in the world. That said, there isn't that much to do there, and you can see its highlights in part of a day. The gardens of both villas are worth visiting, as is the cathedral, which has a lovely ambo. I walked down to Amalfi, which didn't take to long, or at least wouldn't have if I hadn't gotten a bit lost.... Still, under 2 hours as I recall. I took the bus to get to Ravello.

It's a beautiful part of the world - enjoy!

Great advice above, so I'll only add a few more comments.

It's a hassle to get to Pompeii from Positano. You'll have to get to Sorrento first, either by bus, taxi, or boat, then transfer to the local train for the 30 minute ride to Pompeii.

But... if you spent your last day/night in Naples, you could easily visit Pompeii from there. It's very close to most of the city. And it would greatly facilitate your transfer to the airport the next morning! If it matters, we loved Naples when we visited for the first time last year, and really preferred it to Sorrento, which is more pleasant, but also seems less Italian, if that makes sense.

Now about the airport transfer: I totally agree with what other posters have said. Traffic along the coast and into Sorrento/Naples can be fierce starting in the late spring, and you don't want to miss that flight. We got stuck in crazy traffic last year ( end of May) between Sorrento and Naples, and what should have been about an hour ride, turned into 2.5!

About Positano: One of my favorite spots on Earth, despite the insane daytime crowds. Have been there four times, and hope to go back immediately! We did a great tour of the coast and Capri with a company called Salvatore e Gennore, based at the town dock. There are other companies to choose from, too, if their itinerary doesn't suit your schedule.

We found a great, great restaurant in Positano along the seaside path that leads out of town(just past Covo dei Sarceni hotel at town dock) to Fornillo Beach. It's called LO GUARACINO, and is on the right hand side of that path, as you head out of Positano. Wonderful food, and spectacular views of the coast.

Interesting for me to hear someone recommend DA ADOLPHO, because when we last visited it two years ago, we thought it was terrible. Lunch was average, and the promised boat service back to the dock at Positano was not running on any particular schedule. We had to hire a water taxi to get back to town.

Lastly, about Capri: We really enjoyed our Blue Grotto tour, and did pay extra so that we could swim inside the grotto. Some days you can't get into the grotto because of the tides, so make sure you check that out before you head over there. We stayed in Capri Town, which was beautiful in the evenings, but not so much fun during the day when tons of tourists arrived to shop shop shop at the exclusive stores on the main street.

IF we were to go back to Capri again - and not sure I would because it's just not my cup of tea- I would probably look for a hotel in Anacapri, just to escape some of those heavy crowds.

Anyway, hope you have a fantastic trip!

Bookmarking and taking notes

9 nights are more than enough to explore Amalfi Coast, Positani, Ravello, Capri & Ana Capri. I suggest spend 3 nights in cinque terre, 2 nights in Sorrento, and 4 nights in Amalfi Coast or Positano(steps to go up and down). Ravello and Positano are only half hour by bus & boat respectively from amalfi coast. you can vist your historic site from sorrento. even capri and ana capri can be done in a day by boat. If you plan to sit and watch people from Positano Cafes, than its a different story. enjoy

So glad you asked these questions, flygirl. I'm bookmarking because of all the wonderful information in here. And, I'll look forward to your trip report (and pictures, since you are an amazing photographer).

For a visit to Paestum's Greek temples, do think twice before relying on a ferry along the coast to Salerno...

Unless things change from last year, the first to head that way wouldn't leave until 10 - to arrive too late for the 09:21 train, with the next not until almost 2PM.

The alternative from Salerno are the CSTP buses on route 34, which leave hourly on the half hour - but, instead of 40 minutes by rail, those take 65... so at best you'd be at site around 12:30.

(All those are weekday timings, but AFAIK no better at weekends!)

It's similarly awkward from Sorrento, but easy from Naples if OK with catching a train at or before 08:30.... although perhaps you'd intended to get a car and driver anyway?

That it, it was a lovely but 12 hour round trip from here on Ischia...

http://www.pbase.com/isolaverde/paestum

Peter

Wow! Look what happens when I walk away! This is amazing and so helpful! I can see that the Amalfi Coast is a favored destination here. What is funny is that before I started planning this trip I didn't notice how often this region comes up on Fodors. Maybe it is a spring "out of hibernation" planning kind of thing, too.

I have a few hotels on Capri which I have heard back from, too, which I will list at the end of this post.

traveller1959: Thank you for the tips on both grottos. From what I've seen from my readings, between the hikes and a grotto, I am wondering if two full days is enough now. Plus hanging out time, Roman villas, etc.

yestravel: thanks for the restaurant tip! I will also look up Rosetravels thread on hiking. And good to know that the airport experience may be different from what I am used to elsewhere in Italy (damning with faint praise, I am).

ajpeabody, thank you. I will look into that boat tour around Capri.

DTB: thanks for the input. I will check into the cooking classes. No, so far, no car planned. It sounds like more trouble than its worth.

Mimar: thanks for the Naples vote and the hiking link. I'm re-convincing myself Naples is the last night.

nytraveler: thank you again for the tips!

isabel, thank you so much! I will peruse your trip report and photos. The Ravello/Amalfi hike is another one I'd like to do. Actually, if I am going to just do two hikes on the mainland (which might be all I have time for, given the day trips to the historical sites) I might already have the two hikes planned, now: Pathway of the Gods and that Ravello/Amalfi hike. I'm clearly running out of time and I haven't even gotten there yet.

ekc: How long would you estimate is actually spent at Paestum? I may well hire a driver for both longer trips and avoid the 2-ish hours of public transport on both ends. We'll see. I know that a ferry ride would be part of the charm. Thank you for the tip on Buca di Bacco - and the guide. Good stuff.

For Ravello, it sounds like a full day could be had when you consider the ferry ride to Amalfi, bus to Ravello, wandering, lunch, then hike back to Amalfi (and the water mills) and then ferry back to Positano again. Sounds like a good day!

kja: thanks! I have heard from some hotels on Capri and I will list them shortly. Also, I am becoming more convinced of the need for a driver for the off-coast sites. Ravello - thank you for that input, I will visit the villas. It really is sounding like Ravello will be the better part of one day when you figure the ferry rides and hiking involved.

Q: If the coastal traffic is so bad, it sounds like I should not wait until my last day to do Pompeii etc. Right? Or get a driver/guide for the last full day to take me to both places with the final dropoff at my hotel in the late afternoon? It is starting to sound like whichever day I plan to visit Pompeii, Herculaneum, I should just have a driver take me around and avoid the excess time spent with public transport. Should Paestum become its own day, either with or without a driver?


weadles: thank you! I will seek out Naples hotels along with the rest. Thank you for the boat tour tip and the restaurant too. Hotels on Capri I will list at the end...

yenisumi: Thank you, but I think I'm running out of time based on all the cool things to do on the AC, now! Cinque Terre will have to be another time.

Mel, thanks! This thread is fantastic. Thank you so much everyone.

Now, the hotels:

On Capri, I have heard from the below so far. Most of them have few rooms left, which means I might end up with only a single room or no view. I tend to prefer double rooms but can make do with a single:

La Tosca looks very simple but it gets uniformly fantastic reviews. The owner has emailed me a few times, it's family run and he seems so nice. It looks like it would be convenient to a lot of things. I don't believe there is a pool and there are no services.

Villa Sarah It looks charming and it has a pool. Not sure how convenient it is.

Hotel Luna Capri Any recos?

La Minerva This one looks very charming. The only room left is a single no view, but the property looks great and if there are plenty of public terraces with views, I have no problems plunking down with a book and a glass of wine.

I emailed the Hotel Weber Ambassador but have not heard back yet. I am torn about this one, it certainly looks like a fantastic location but some of the TA reviews turned me off. Any experience with this one?

Positano: Residence Alcione.

I am considering this one because a resident expert on Trip Advisor, who has been to Positano many times, raves about it and says she won't ever look for another hotel there again. No real services (it's a B&B) but the size of the rooms/the private terrace and views more than make up for it. I corresponded with the owner and they currently have a top floor suite open which I am fairly certain I will reserve. Any other Positano ideas? The suite runs 220E a night which is about what I usually pay in general for hotels.

Thank you again everyone, what a nice treat to see this Sunday morning! Planning is half the fun, isn't it?

Peter, we cross posted! Thank you for the information. It sounds like I have a choice: leave Paestum for another visit, or definitely get a driver. I don't have time on a short trip to muck around with public transport for far-flung trips.

I started watching "The Talented Mr. Ripley" again, last night...

flygirl, I think an hour or 2 at Paestum would be adequate - maybe another 30 minutes to an hour for the museum. Let me know if you would like a guide for Paestum. A friend of mine who lives in the area gave me a recommendation.

I think Alcione is a great pic and I would trust MomCat's recommendation. I have walked past it and it looks fine and was actually going to book that suite for my June trip, but found a cheaper apartment instead.

Yes, seeing Amalfi and Ravello with the hike will be a full day. I would recommend a stop at Andrea Panza - a little cafe in the center of Amalfi.

Peter - thanks for the clarification about the ferry/train combo to Paestum. You always are a wealth of knowledge!

Well done re Ripley - it grows and grows, I find! More movies with an Ischia connection?

http://www.hoteleuropaischia.it/uk/ischia_film_location_13.php?lg=uk

To go with Paestum, historic Salerno is interesting, and Vietri sul Mare rather pleasant:
http://www.pbase.com/isolaverde/salerno33

http://www.pbase.com/isolaverde/vietri

Peter

The Hotel Luna has a very central location and beautiful rooms. It also has a huge pool and gorgeous garden full of lemon trees. We stayed there several years ago in two rooms overlooking the water and the famous rocks of Capri.

However, I have heard great things about Hotel Minerva, and it is very close to Hotel Luna. I don't think you can go wrong either way. I believe Minerva is cheaper?

Now about The Alcione: From what I remember, it is a good 15-20 walk from town and beach up along the main road that leads out of town. If you have a suite, yes, you'll have a terrific view, but if it's ground floor, pass on it because you will be almost on the road w/ lots of traffic noise.

Lastly, you asked about hotels in Naples. I'm not sure what your budget is, but we stayed at Hotel Excelsior along the waterfront and loved it. It was a quiet and beautiful escape after a day of touring. And they have a lovely rooftop bar with great views of the water where you can relax and try to speak bad Italian with the bartender.

Great idea Peter. If you have a driver for your trip to Paestum, I highly recommend a stop in Vietri and a visit to the ceramics museum.

For someone who loves trekking, the Path of the Gods is a must. Also there is an amazing walk from Ravello to Amalfi through the "hills" called the Valley of the Mills where you can discover the ruins of roman aqueducts and ancient paper mills.

Allow one day for each of these, although actual trekking time is only about 4-5 hours.
The only thing is that I wouldn't like to do either of these without a guide because there are a couple of "wrong turns" that you could take. I did a group trek with a local guide.

On Capri, there is a nice little trek up to an ancient Roman villa (southern end) , and then another trek to the rocks on the west coast of the island.

Transport in this area is not a problem. Buses run all day from Amalfi to Naples, and the bus ride itself is one of the highlights of the trip. After seeing the road, I wouldn't even consider driving myself !

Pompei is also easier to navigate with a guide, I have done one full day without a guide and 4 hours with a guide, we saw so much more in the 4 hours with the guide than we did that first time without.

Don't stay too far away from the airport at Naples, and don't plan to do any sight seeing on the day you leave. Get to the airport ... the Italians have a very different way of doing things and its best to plan for every possible complication.

We did a small group tour with this company .... http://www.mtatravel.com.au/latest-news/groups/dreamtreks-tours-announce-new-2013-italy-brochure.
We stayed 1 night Naples, 3 nights Amalfi, 3 nights Positano, with a day trip to Capri.
It was truly amazing, whatever you decide to do and wherever you decide to stay, you'll love it.

ekc, thank you again. I am thinking "driver & guide" for that day. Do you think I can visit all three historical sites in one day or am I really pushing it and need two days? I imagine they close around 5 PM or so...

Peter, thank you for that link.

weadles, just booked the Excelsior. Thanks! That was easy.

Bridget, thank you!

I would do Capri as it seemed much easier to get around...You will LOVE Positano!!!! We stayed at Covo Dei Saraceni and Loved it!!!Must eat at Max's and the restaurant at Covo is fabulous! There is a store in Positano to buy the sandals, don't buy in Capri too $$$. If you are on the beach in Positano, staring up..go to your left up the side streets and the sandal shop is on your left. Read about it in Vogue, bought 3 pairs, great price, still have um...have fun!

> Do you think I can visit all three historical sites in one day or am I really pushing it and need two days?

If you mean Pompeii, Herculaneum, and Paestum, then yes, I think you need at least 2 days. Pompeii alone can take a full day!

Try here for a set of timed itineraries for seeing Pompei (2 hours, half-day and whole day)...

http://www.pompeiisites.org/Sezione.jsp?titolo=Quanto+tempo+hai+a+disposizione%3F&idSezione=58

In Italian, however the names for the "houses" etc tie up with the map available using the link further down that page - near where it says 'Piantina'...

With a bit of prodding, Adobe Reader can be persuaded to make a 3 page print from it, or you can wait till getting one with your ticket.

Less of an issue at Herculaneum, where we've usually taken perhaps 2 - 2 1/2 hours.

We were at Paestum for just over 3 hours - spent mostly in the museum and around the temples, then a quick lunch - but, having seen many such before, didn't bother with more than the briefest of looks at the city ruins!

......................

At the two Vesuvian sites, individual buildings and areas may be closed - both by rotation so as to relieve the "pressure" on them, but also for restoration.... and there's a big scheme starting at Pompei now.

Not sure of the current situation (and they could well still be shut completely), but at Herculaneum it's often / usually possible to visit the lovely suburban baths ONLY in the mornings.....

http://www.pbase.com/isolaverde/image/105332100

(On flickr.com I can't see any photos from there since the summer of 2010)

Perhaps best to check again just before you travel, as stuff like that may influence the order in which you arrange those visits?

Peter

Thank you for the shopping tips, Moogalah!

kja, noted!

Peter, *very* good information to know about Pompeii.

My research:

OK then! I emailed Renato Cuomo, based on a review of ekscrunchy's fantastic detailed report.

He is offering a 9 AM to 4 PM visit to Pompeii and Herculanum for 220E. That is about what I expected to pay, although I was hoping for a longer day than that - hoping to arrive at 9 AM, for instance, and I have a feeling those times are hotel pickup and dropoff times which doesn't leave a lot of time at the actual sites. I'm guessing it's at least an hour, if not more, to get to the sites from Positano.

However: his Paestum day is shorter (ends at 3 PM) and is 330 euros! eep! I can see why people do public transport. Why so much - is it really that far away from Positano? Public transport will mean literally an entire day for me, which means I either suck up the driver cost or just leave this for another trip. I only have four full days on the mainland, since the day I arrive in Positano I will be coming from Capri and I'm guessing the ferry times aren't early in the day. Maybe I should just use one day as a day trip (Pompeii/Herc) and use the other three days to explore locally. We will see....

I also emailed Dino, on eks's report, and his email doesn't work now.

Just coincidence, or also you?

http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/ShowTopic-g187779-i161-k6244762-Driver_and_guide_for_Pompeii_Herculaneum_and_Paestum-Amalfi_Coast_Campania.html

If it is, I've donated already!

Peter

Thanks Peter!

I'll be visiting the area after you, in late May, so I hope you will report on your hikes. BTW, do you prefer the Cicerone or the Sunflower guide? I have the Cicerone, but would consider picking up the Sunflower if if would be better for independent hikers or has more then the Cicerone.
I have come across this cooking class:
http://www.mammaagata.com/

Not sure if the other does it but, for the Sunflower guide, be sure to check their website for updates...

Look for the grey box "Current Updates" here...

http://www.sunflowerbooks.co.uk/product/walking-in-sorrento-the-amalfi-coast-and-capri/

Although Amazon UK seem to think there's a new edition due in mid-April....

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sorrento-Amalfi-Capri-Tours-Landscapes/dp/1856914291/ref=sr_1_4?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1363018911&sr=1-4

Peter

Thanks Peter, I signed up to be notified when the new edition comes out. I've read that the hikes can be confusing, but I've also read they are well-signed (which I have found to be the case on previous trips to Italy). I think my biggest concern should be preparing my knees for the steps!

flygirl, 2 more contacts for you, recommended by a friend of mine who lives in the area:

Driver in Positano: Sergio Rianna and his email is info@taxi5positano.com. Tell him you got his name from Guido Gambone and he might give you a good rate on a drive to Paestum and back.

Guide for Paestum: Silvia Braggio and her email is silvia@silviaguide.it

I forgot to mention I confirmed La Minerva on Capri. So that's done.

yorkshire, I haven't looked closely enough to say I prefer one or the other. I plan to take both. I always buy a lot of guidebooks (probably too many).

I am pretty sure, though, that I have my mainland hikes sorted out. I only have four full days on the mainland (arrival Tuesday at some point, Wed-Sat I have all day, and Sunday at some point I take off for Naples) which means that I have time for two hikes on two different days on the mainland. I plan to do the Pathway of the Gods for sure, and the Ravello-Amalfi hike including the mills mentioned above. If I do not go to Paestum I will have another completely open day which I could do another hike - or just hang out, go for a boat ride, etc etc. I will assess when I get there.

Capri - I think I will just wing it. I arrive mid afternoon on one day, then have two full days after that. That possibly means I only have time for one actual hike - although walking around sightseeing counts as hiking too, right?

ekc, thanks!

No problem!

One more driver to check for a price quote: Giovanni Gargiulo at Tourofitaly.com. We've used him many times. He's based in Sorrento. A real character, very charming, and good company on long drives!

flygirl, to answer your question about Paestum, yes it is a little far away from Positano, we were in Minori ( which is a little closer to it than Positano) and it took us an hour and a half to drive there. We liked it better than Pompeii actually, it was less crowded with other tourists and the museum was good. The temples are amazing to think they have stood there for 2600 years.

The other thing was in Pompeii there was an atmosphere of touts trying to get you into their restaurants and sell you things, and in Paestum there was none of that, it was just very pleasant.
It was fun to see the herds of buffalo along the way , love that mozzarella di bufala!

For Capri's archaeology, have you found this?

http://www.italiantouristoffice.se/sv/docs/293.pdf

P

Weadles, thank you for the extra driver info. It would appear, from a second driver, that Renato (whom I already contacted) is very reasonable for Pompeii and about on target for Paestum.

raincitygirl, thank you for the tips. I'll dig around some more but I might leave Paestum for another visit anyway. If it's truly an entire day out of only four on the mainland, I am not sure I want to spend a good chunk of it in a car. Plus, if I leave it for a trip with my Mom, at least I'll feel I'm getting good value for 330E - two people in the car and not just me!

Peter, wow, that is great information, thanks!

I have found heaven, by the way, and it looks like it is Da Luigi ai Faraglioni! It reminds me of the Buza Bar, kind of. On the list, oh yes, high on that list.

I have all hotels confirmed now BTW. I move quickly, huh?

Hi! Let me give you few tips, I live in Naples and know the area very well. Talking about Capri island, choose the hotel in CApri, at night you can spend the time sipping some wine at the famouse "piazzetta" watching world stars walking around or probably sitting next to you. The island is very tiny (10 square km), so you will explore it back abnd force. as for the hiking, you can take a nice walk till Arco Naturale (Natural Arch) and Villa Jovis. if you want some tips about restaurants or beaches were to go, write me on vvsukhanevich@hotmail.com. As for Positano and the Path of Gods, I did it by myself and it is a wonderful experience! there are guides that can accompany you. As for the car to rent, I don't advise it for 2 reasons:
1.the road of Amalfi Coast is very narrow and full of curves, if you are not used to drive on these kind of roads, you will have a really hard time.
2. the parking is REALLY expensive in each town, it costs 5 euro per hour and in Positano you might pay about 30 eur per day.
Much better to take a private transfer. The prejudices about the Southern Italy that the drivers are late or will not show up is not based. People here are very warm hearted and will do everything to make your trip unforgettable. If you need more tips about how to organize your trip, the hotels or how to booko a transfer just send me an e-mail or contact me on skype victoria_tiberio. Ciao!!!!

by the way, Blu Grotto is the must! immaging yourself laying in a small boat and while the wave is low, slip into this grotto with unreal colour of water, that was chosen by the emperor Tiberius as his private pool.
Naples/Sorrento
well, I love Naples and really suggest you to visit, it is vary laid-back city, doesn't give you a sence of a metropolis at all. the proverb says "See Naples and then die".
With sorrento you can do this way:
when you will be coming back from Capri, take a boat to Sorrento ( it is the closest point from Capri, actually in the palenthological era it was a part of Sorrento, it will take you 15-20 min), get a car with the driver, leave your luggage at his car ang go to explore Sorrento. It is very tiny, so 1 hour is enough, probably you can spend another hour having a lunch in a nice place.
after that the driver will bring you to Positano.
After your stay in Positano, you can spend 1 ight in Naples,and on the way to Naples you can do a stop in Pompei for 2-3 hrs visit. I suggest you to take a guide, the excavations are big and the guide will show you the main sites in this stretch of tim.
Going back to Naples, I definitely suggest you a hotel on the sea side, the Partenope street. there you have several hotels: Hotel Royal Continental 4*, Hotel Excelsior 4*, Hotel Santa Lucia, GH Vesuvio. there is an Egg Castel infront with borgo marinari, plenty of restaurants where you can get a real NON TOURISTIC meal, maybe a real pizza ( Pizza was born in Naples). in 5 minutes walk you will be near Piazz dei Marteri, a place with great shops and full of the night bars. The Pleabiscito Square is 15 min walk, with it's beautiful San Carlo Opera theatre, Umberto Gallery and much much more!

You can train to Paestum, train station is right at the ruins, museum there is superb and deserves 2 to 3 hours itself, cafes, & shops right at the ruins for lunch & refreshments, an excellent day out.

For hiking info visit http://www.giovis.com/Egiovis.htm

The site is run by a local hiker/cartographer, Giovanni Visetti, and has detailed info, maps, photos and videos of hikes in the area.

He also has a program planned for May 19-24 - not sure if that coincides with your dates.

If you go up to Anacapri, you might consider a visit to the Villa San Michele. It was built by the Swedish doctor, Axel Munthe, in the early 20th century on the ruins of the villa of the emperor Tiberius. This was the first place I went during my first visit to Capri because I had read Munthe's Story of San Michele, a fascinating book, not just about his time on Capri.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Story_of_San_Michele

My other favorites in Anacapri are the chairlift to Monte Solaro, and the church of San Michele with the beautiful painted tile floor depicting the expulsion of Adam and Eve from the Garden of Eden.

http://www.chiesa-san-michele.com/lg/en/index.htm

Can't wait to see your photos from this trip. I'm sure they will be as fabulous as your previous ones that I've really enjoyed.

Good evening everyone

Sorry for the delay in replying. I appreciate the new ideas. I am a few months from this trip and have a lot of reading to do and list out my options and must dos.

Thank you for that detailed hiking link, hamlet, I will make good use of that for sure.

And MaineGG, thank you for the compliment! I am so looking forward to photographing this part of the world. It looks so dramatic!

Hello again

How easy is it to find the Phoenician Stairs on Capri? After poking around and seeing photos, I would like to walk along this path.

We will be in Amalfi in May and will book a driver to and from Naples. Do you have a reference for a reputable one?

I am eagerly following this thread. I am hoping to be in the same area in Spring 2014 (hopefully for a honeymoon) and have been compiling notes for almost a year.

Flygirl, I hope you will post a trip report when you get back.

I've seen the top of the Phoenician stairs (Scala Fenicia) near the Villa San Michele in Anacapri. I haven't walked up or down, so can't help with the location of the bottom.

Thank you MaineGG!

I think I will be walking DOWN those stairs. Tee hee.

Delaine, I will write a report. I do try...

Ellafish, others would have better recos for drivers, I have not been there yet.

Bookmarking

I also am bookmarking for a future trip.

I'll add that I first became interested in this area when I saw a friends photos from THE WEBER AMBASSADOR. They loved staying there and recommended it highly.

Now that I read through this thread again I realize how much I'd like to see this part of Italy. I also realize what changes our mind every time we look into it----getting there!

I guess the best way for us is direct from Chicago to Naples. I don't see direct flights so that means changing in Paris, Brussels, Rome, etc. We travel to Europe every year so we know how frustrating and long this can be. Then getting from Naples to Capri. I'm exhausted thinking about it much less doing it! It makes France look so easy.

If anyone knows of an easier way to get there please tell me. The Italian airport & train system isn't my favorite in organization but I really would like to go there. We've already been to Rome, Florence, Milan, Lake Como, Bergamo, Portofino.

flygirl----maybe I'll just have to go there through your trip report and photos along with a glass of cold Pinot Grigio!

TPAYT, it is a little difficult. We fly from Norfolk, VA so have an extra stop to exit the country. We also go to Europe once or twice a year and lately, our trip always seems to be to France, mostly Paris....need to move a little farther.
We're planning the Amalfi Coast next May (after reading flygirl's report, of course)because we haven't been and we're not getting any younger. If we wait too many years, the hassle of just getting there and the hiking may be too much. We're planning to fly to Naples and ferry to Capri to start.
Can't wait to read flygirl's report!

Great info here, I learned a lot in preparation for our trip in May 2014. Flygirl, can't wait to read your trip report and see the pictures! Have a great trip.

Ellafish:

Two recommendations for drivers:

Tourofitaly.com

and

Tiberlimo.com

**We've used the first company many times. They are based in Sorrento. Trying the second company this year for the first time because there are six of us going directly from Rome to Positano after a long flight.

flygirl,
We stayed in Positano for a week last summer. You will LOVE it! We stayed at Hotel Marincanto, which is exquisite. If you like hiking, you've picked the right destinations. We don't hike, but it's impossible to avoid in Positano.

You definitely do NOT want a car in Positano. Driving is a hair-raising experience, with hairpin turns everywhere...and when a bus comes in the other lane it really gets interesting. We hired a driver to pick us up at the train station. Since we flew in and out of Rome, the train was our only experience of travel in Naples, and it was fine.

However, I wasn't surprised to read about the chaos at the Naples airport. This was the only region of Italy where we had to fight our way onto buses. We're not from a big urban area, so we're not used to elbowing or shoving our way, but we soon learned.

I'd advise taking the little boat to Da Adolfo for lunch and their private beach. Be sure to reserve a lounge chair.

We also took the ferry to Capri one day and Amalfi/Ravello another day. I'd highly recommend Amalfi and Ravello, which is absolutely gorgeous. However, spring for a taxi up to Ravello; the bus service was frightening there! Same on Capri when going up to Anacapri; it's a real cattle call to ride the bus...literally, they corral you in railed lines while waiting for the bus. Maybe it's the only way they have found to make people wait their turn!

There are some lovely shops and restaurants in Positano, and the scenery is breathtaking. You will have a wonderful time!

TPAYT, check back in about a month with your glass of wine! Funny, I review my own photos to decide what to put online - with a glass of wine.

I have been picking at "things to do and see" but now have to get cracking b/c I am barely three weeks away.

For anyone who is planning a trip there, ekscrunchy's trip report is fantastic (as they always are). I cut and pasted it into a word document and have culled out things I want to try to do/see from her report (as well as four guidebooks, etc). I gotta get my driver sorted out too. What I usually do is highlight what I hope to see, put it into my own word doc, and that goes with me as a list of options/things not to forget about. What I actually end up doing may or may not resemble that list but at least I have an idea of the lay of the land before I arrive.

xyz, thank you!

cybertraveler, Da Adolpho - on the list. No car! I plan to use ferries or drivers - or my feet. Good tip on taxis for a few places, too.

Stay tuned... so glad this thread has grown, there are a lot of good tips here.

BTW here is ekscrunchy's report:

http://www.fodors.com/community/europe/scialatiella-to-sfogliatelle-paccheri-to-provola-7-delectable-days-in-amalfi-and-naples.cfm

Thanks - I've been looking for it, too

I didn't read all the answers, above, sorry if this is duplicating (or contradicting). We spent 7 days in Positano two years ago in May and 2 nights in Anacapri (which wasn't planned till we were already in Positano). We rented a self-drive rubberized motorboats in Positano and drove down to Amalfi and took the bus up to Ravello. It was so fun to see the coastline from the sea - and there is pretty bad traffic, even in May, from Positano to Amalfi, so it did save time. We were glad to see Ravello (having been there 15 years prior) but wouldn't want to stay there, unless at one of the wonderful hotels on a honeymoon.

We also took the boat out to Capri, went around the island, stopped for lunch, went to the green grotto, and had the guys run us through the blue grotto. At the time I thought, "what a tourist trap", but in retrospect, I am glad we did it. It's just one of the things most do in Capri - a little synonymous.

We came back later and stayed at the top of the island - to rest, mostly.

Got lost on one of the Positano hikes - by myself (just retraced my steps to get back), but it was funny.

There was a restaurant maybe about 10 minute hike up that was really good.

Good Luck!

ps. I forgot to mention: I got a fourth guidebook at Stanford's in Covent Garden when I was in London a few weekends ago. They had a 'buy one, get one half off" deal on all Lonely Planet books so I bought a couple - one of which was their Naples/Amalfi Coast one.

I have to say - I really like the Lonely Planet format. All around. Good color photos on various pages, good tips, well formatted and presented.

you MUST hire a driver to drive you up and down and around the Amalfi Coast... even though you will be hiking, the driveis fun and drop dead gorgeous!

All: I have a driver, Renato Cuomo (or a minion) taking me to Pompeii/Herculanum for 220 for the day (8 AM to 4 PM). Decent price?

Sounds like a driver Positano/ Naples is 110, even the hotel told me the same.

I am now debating if I should take a ferry to Sorrento from Capri in the AM and then get a driver to my hotel in Positano. The Capri ferries appear to start around 3 PM for Positano and I'd like an earlier start.

We too love the LP guide, and have met up with one of the authors on his visits to Ischia. There's a great interview he gave one of the local papers, about the difficulties of his task, on...

http://corrieredelmezzogiorno.corriere.it/napoli/notizie/arte_e_cultura/2011/7-marzo-2011/museo-san-gennaro-4-orari-diversi-dura-vita-guida-turistica-napoli-190170050118.shtml

No promises, but this link may get you a rather garbled "autotranslate" version...

http://translate.google.co.uk/translate?hl=en&sl=it&u=http://corrieredelmezzogiorno.corriere.it/napoli/notizie/arte_e_cultura/2011/7-marzo-2011/museo-san-gennaro-4-orari-diversi-dura-vita-guida-turistica-napoli-190170050118.shtml&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dcristian%2Bbonetto%2Bnapoli%26lr%3D%26hl%3Den%26as_qdr%3Dall%26biw%3D1280%26bih%3D806

Peter

Two possibilities: If you don't have much luggage, you could consider the Sita bus from Sorrento to Positano. It's only about a 30 minute ride.

OR... you could take a boat ( are they running end of May? have only taken them in June/July) from Sorrento to Positano. That's about a 45-minute ride. Then at the dock in Positano you can hire a porter to help you with your bags to the hotel if you need help.

If you've not already found it, for details of the current service on the Sorrento / Positano / Amalfi boat route, try....

http://www.fodors.com/community/europe/ferries-from-sorrento-497363-2.cfm

Peter

Good morning

Thank you for the information and the links. Sorry for the delay in replying!

Peter, I think I will be watching The Talented Mr. Ripley yet again before leaving...

At any rate:

I have Renato set to pick me up in Sorrento and drive me to my hotel in Positano. 60E. This works out well because I can leave Capri in the AM and not have to worry about ferry schedules on the other end - the driver will deposit me at my lodging. I'll be able to have lunch in Positano.

On another note, I just picked up a copy of the book "My Amalfi Coast" by Amanda Tabberer with photos by Carla Coulson (which is the reason I even heard of the book, I follow Carla's blog). Amanda was married to the son of the owner of Da Adolpho for several years (Sergio - and what a good looking guy he is, wow). The book is coffee table book sized and full of rich, colorful, stunning photos - I wouldn't expect anything less from Carla Coulson. Amanda takes you on an engaging, semi-autobiographical journey to visit the personalities and places of the Amalfi Coast, town by town. She weaves stories from her life there so a number of the photos are of her family and friends - on the water, in a boat, having fun. What a life!

The book:

http://www.amazon.com/My-Amalfi-Coast-Amanda-Tabberer/dp/1921382317

A little about her story:

http://www.anaffairwithitaly.com/blog/view/3/Amanda-Tabberer-writer

Her website:

http://www.my-amalfi-coast.com/

And how would you like to do a Gourmet Safari?

http://www.my-amalfi-coast.com/gourmet-safari

Her top ten:

http://www.penguin.com.au/lantern/travel/tips/amanda-tabberers-top-ten-amalfi-coast-experiences

Off topic to Amalfi Coast, but, here is a link to Carla's blog and a recent article she wrote:

http://carlacoulson.com/travel-photography-series-part-3-architecture/

Hi everyone

I am back and will (hopefully soon) have a new posting with Answers rather than Questions.

Italy always seems to outdo itself every new place I visit and this time was no exception.

I will leave you with one photo - the view from the balcony of my hotel in Positano. We had an overnight/morning storm which cleared up around 11 AM or so:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/skywalkerbeth/8747484821/

I had a few locals tell me that in their opinion, October was their favorite time along the Amalfi Coast. Something to keep in mind!

Bookmarking.

Welcome home! Gorgeous photo. We were along the Amalfi coast staying in Positano in October this past year and it was packed and jammed, so much so we left and went back to Naples. Looking forward to reading about your trip.

Gorgeous photo is right! Can't wait to see more.

Welcome home! Can't wait to read all about it.
Where did you stay in Positano? Would you say mid-May is a good time to go? We are planning or trip mid-May next year, but we could also go a little bit earlier or later, if you think that would be a better choice.
Thanks