7 nights - Rome or Lago Como?

As you say, they will be entirely different holiday experiences so it's really up to you as to which will give you the most pleasure.

For a relaxing holiday, I would spend the 7 days around either but not attempt to see both. Personally, I would prefer to holiday around Lake Como, as I prefer country to city. Lake Como is pretty and relaxing, although I imagine it will be very busy in July.

If you do decide to visit both, fly into Milan and out of Rome or vice-versa.

I'm not sure that this has been particularly helpful but they are such different places.

I would choose Lake Como in July, fearing that Rome might be really hot.

I love Lake Como but if I had time and could also spend several days in Rome, or Florence, or Venice, I would not spend an entire week at the lake.

Now, this isn't to say there isn't PLENTY to see and do there, especially if you are inclined to get one of the boat passes and spend your time at thew various villas, gardens, etc.

It CAN BE a very relaxing place especially if you do NOT allow yourself to get too caught up in this board's usual long and sometimes drawn out "controversy" about exactly where to stay:

Varenna: dead at night and not as "chic" as Bellagio; Bellagio: jammed with visitors but for good reason
Menaggio: who actually stays THERE (a lot of smart people, that's who) and on and on and on....

The lake is wonderful and you are right, entirely different than any of the cities so in a way a hard choice. Good luck.

I'd be tempted to try and do both, with a train journey to get from one to the other...you can get from Como town to Rome in about 4.5 hours....(mind you, would do Rome first and the lake second....

We always stay here on Lake Como

http://www.lakecomoapartment.com

but you need to be happy to walk down to the apartment from the road, but makes it amazingly quiet though....

I have another vote for Lake Como, just gorgeous. Rome at that time of year - too crowded, too hot etc. Maybe think of staying at two places around the lake but with very different things to offer. Still in the same region but investigating a bit further afield. I know many like the Swiss side of the lake area and they may offer some more suggestions. I loved Varenna.

Schnauzer

Combine Como with Milan for contrast---2 and 5.

Swagman,

Where are you flying out of?

Lake Como and Venice are a good pairing, so you might think about that.

I have been to Lake Como several times, but with seven nights I would do Lake Como and another destination. Rome is a good for another destination. Venice is good for some, it depends on the conevenience of the flight home.

For that time of year, I vote Como also. In addition to Milan (magnificent Duomo), you can take a day trip to the city of Como while you are there. There was an article in "Smithsonian" mag about the silk trade there-if you or your mate has interest in textiles.

Ok, Lake Como is SOLD!! I've wanted to go there for a long time, thanks for convincing me!!

So what I have decided is to squeeze in an extra night, hence 8 nights in total - starting with 4 nights in Rome, then train to Lake Como for another 4 nights, then fly out of Milan.

I have done searches on Trenitalia.it re connections between Roma and say Bellagio but couldn't find any. Can someone advise me where is the closest station to Bellagio or the route between Roma and any of the lakeside resort around Lago Como?

If we are flying out of Milan, is it better to stay at Varenna? (I understand Varenna is close to the freeway) What is the best connection between Lago Como and Milan Malpensa, train or bus?

Your feedback is much appreciated.

s

You can't go all the way to Bellagio on the train...you get to Como or Varenna and then take the bus or ferry to where you want to go...unless you want to stay in Como or Varenna.
From Como to get to Malpensa get the train chaning at Saronno

Varenna station a 5-minute walk to ferry to Bellagio.

I have done further research, my flight out of Milan is around midday, hence allowing 3hrs for international check-in, it means I have to be at Malpensa by 9am. If I stayed at say Bellagio, I would have to leave there before 7am, allowing for traffic on the autostrada. Is this a fair assumption?

So perhaps a reverse itinerary works better, ie fly into Milan, straight to Lake Como for 4 nights, then train to Rome for 4 nights before flying out of Rome.

Any comments?

s

I was remebering international check-in as being two hours ahead so check with your airline.

Your reverse itinarary is not a bad idea. Many people like the more hectic (Rome) at the back of the trip.

Also in my opinion, arrival day is the best day to spend a few hours getting to your final destination. With Milan - Lake Como for your arrival day, you'll be at your hotel around mid-afternoon.

As far as the exact timing to fly HOME from Malpensa - I will check my boat schedules but I think that the boat service starts right at about 8:00am. If you can get to Como, then it is supposed to be possible to get to Malpensa on the Milan area commuter rail (no traffic worries). This does involve changing trains however.

To answer your ealier question about bus or train for Lake Como to Malpensa. Unfortunately the perfect solution no longer exists. The perfect solution was the Malpensa to Town of Como bus (no longer runs). Private Buses, Lario Bus is one, looked expensive when I researched. A private car/taxi is supposed to be appx Euro140. You can train from Varenna to Milan Centrale and take the Malpensa Shulttle (bus) to the airport. From the town of Como you can take the commuter rail per above. SPT runs the local (Bellagio, Menaggio, Como etc.)bus company. Linea Lecco runs out of Lecco, but that probably won't help you.

One note - we stayed in Varenna and made an 11:00am flight easily. Train Varenna to Milano Centrale and then the Malpensa Shuttle bus to Malpensa.

<<So perhaps a reverse itinerary works better, ie fly into Milan, straight to Lake Como for 4 nights, then train to Rome for 4 nights before flying out of Rome.

Any comments?>>


Seems easier and less stressfull to start in Lake Como and end in Rome.

Take the airport bus to the Milan train station and then the train to Varenna. Walk down the hill to the ferry (5-10 minutes) and take the ferry to Bellagio (10-15 minutes).

Lake Como to Rome:
There is no ticket window or machines at the Varenna train station. So, purchase your tickets to Rome when you arrive at the Milan train station on your way to Lake Como. Another option- there is a travel agent in Varenna (located about half way up the hill from the ferry to the train station) that will sell train tickets with no service fee.

I'd do Lake Como first and fly home from Rome. Although in theory it's easy to get from Bellagio to Malpensa in time for a midday flight, there are three "legs" to the journey (unless you take a taxi). And three chances for a foul-up, especially if a strike is called. Flying out of Rome means just one train or one taxi and less expensive emergency back-up strategies.

I think Rome in July is dreadful. It's too damn hot with too much car exhaust. But I think the same of NYC. If one can afford it, July is a month to LEAVE both cities.

Since July is your travel month, I would get Rome out of the way first and then luxuriate in life at the lake. It may be slightly easier the other way around but you WILL NOT REGRET leaving Italy with Lake Como as your last destination. The weather around the lake in July is nothing like Milan or Rome. It's much cooler and dryer and fabulous. You simply can't imagine the beauty until you experience it for yourself.

Getting to Malpensa in the early morning can be a challenge. My flight usually departs at 10 AM but I've been on earlier flights. To fix this, I splurge on a private car service from wherever I'm staying. It doesn't have to be a limo. For a no-stress departure, it's worth every penny at an early hour. A taxi from the ferry stop in the city of Como to Malpensa will cost around € 80. You can get your hotel to negotiate a taxi fare from wherever you're staying.

FYI, the train to Varenna will say Varenna-Esino so don't be confused.

Big_Red, one of the posters on Slowtrav suggests that with increased security checks, it is advisable to arrive 3 hours prior for international departures, so I think it safe to take that comment on board.

"you WILL NOT REGRET leaving Italy with Lake Como as your last destination"

NYCFoodSnob, I can't agree with your comment more and after the hustle and bustle of Rome, I think Lago Como is the place to wind down!

So with the above in mind, I guess I'll stick to the original plan to start in Rome and finish in Lago Como, flying out of MXP. I have also made enquiry with a private car company which promptly replied to my email and advised me the trip from Bellagio to Malpensa is approx 2 hours at a cost of 180Euros. I am sure this is much more pricey than train, but definitely less chance of 'foul ups' as Jean pointed out above.

With respect to the fast train service between Rome and Milano Centrale, could someone advise if I should pre-purchase tickets at home or purchase when I get to Rome? 1st or 2nd class? Approx costs? Would it be one ticket all the way to Como town or would I have to purchase another ticket when transiting at Milano Centrale? I assume I can taxi/bus from Como town to Bellagio.

Many thx again!

s

For February (didn't know what day of week or exact date) 89 (2nd) and 109 (1st) euros from Rome to Milan and about 3 hours. You can get a ticket for half that amount at twice the time. Another hour to Varenna. Look at trenitalia.com for info.

There isn't a huge difference between 1st and 2nd if you have reserved seats. It's up to you really. I think you can wait and buy train tickets when you get there.

If you go from Rome to Varenna-Esino, (94.10 or 116.65) you walk down the hill from the train station and catch the ferry to Bellagio. Buy your return ticket to Milan also btw-the Varenna station was unmanned when we were there. We caught the earliest train to Milan and took the airport shuttle from Milano Centrale.

If you go from Milan to the city of Como, you can catch a bus or boat to Bellagio. I am not familiar with that option so other Fodorites will need to help.

My comments are only that you most certainly do not need to leave 3 hours for international check-in in Milan. And that I would check with the hotel just to see what rate they can offer for a taxi to Malpensa. I do think a taxi is a prudent use of your money as it will allay the anxiety of those connections. Consider, too, the option of staying on the western shore of the lake, in Menaggio or around Tremezzo/Lenno.

For town of Como to Bellagio there are two and one half options.
#1) Bus - Check the SPT website. If google does not find SPT, then the larioonline website has a link to the SPT website.
#2) Boat
A) Regular boat - about two hours
B) High speed boat - about one hour

Swagman

Another possibility - consider crossing the lake for your last night and stay in Lenno. Albergo Lenno is directly across from the ferry stop and it's a nice hotel. The waterfront setting is beautiful and there are a few good restaurants right on the water. You could spend your last day visiting Villa Balbianello (either a long-ish but beautiful walk from Lenno, or, a short walk to the boat stop to take you there) and make that hotel your base for that day. You could also visit Villa Carlotta from Lenno pretty easily.

http://www.albergolenno.com/eng/

Try to get an upper level room with balcony (or any room facing the lake with a balcony).

I think the drive Lake Como-MXP is easier from the west side of the lake - it would be shorter that morning as you'd have the lake crossing out of the way from the day before and a slightly shorter drive overall.

I just recently finished posting a trip report which included Lake Como, so if you click on my name and click on the trip report entitled "Hannah Belle..." you will see some details and some photos of Lake Como and a few villas if you are interested. Lake Como is one of my favorite places, full stop.

Thank you for all your advice to date.

Re train transfer from Milano Centrale - is it better to train to Como town or Varenna? Which is the quicker trip or perhaps more scenic?

I chose to stay in Bellagio because it is our first time to Lago Como and we only have 4 nights, thought we should stay somewhere centrally located to get a feel of the area for future visits. Currently I am choosing between Hotel Florence and Hotel Belvedere, any comments?

But I have taken on board your advice to consider staying on the western side of the lake. Hence I have emailed the pro-driver to see if he has any preference in terms of pick up point and advice on traffic for an early Monday morning ride to MXP.

ekscrunchy, I loath arriving at airports too early as there is really nothing to do but to wait for one's flight. However I will still allow a bit more time as I am not familiar with the trip to MXP plus I am sure my wife will certainly have to de-tax her purchases!! We have been to MXP once, but cannot recall the location of the de-tax office, do you know?

flygirl, amazing photos! I particular like the ones of Varenna, it is a wonderful view from the Eremo Gaudio. Love your car too! Must have been an amazing experience driving open top on the autobarn and autostrada, hope it didn't mess up your hair!!

You took the seaplane over the lake, I don't think there is a better way to see the area, do you remember how much it costs you? Also where did you take that from?

Once again, many many thanks for all your feedback and input.

s

For your first question (Varenna or Como) it depends on the amount of luggage and time of day you arrive. If you arrive via Como then you have a pleasant boat ride up to Bellagio. There are fast boats (40 mintues, non opening windows, no open air decks). There are slow boats (2 hours). Last boat out of Como is 7:00pm. I would think Como to Bellagio will provide the more scenic. The Como to Midlake ride is probably the most scenic of the three leags of the lake. If you arrive via Varenna, then it is short 12- 15 minute ferry hop to Bellagio.

Bellagio is fine choice. Can't give guidance about hotels. Try to get a lakeview/lakefront if possible. We like to walk from Bellagio to the little village of Pescallo. If you do this, the foot path is far easier than following the road. Take your camera to Pescallo.

The seaplanes are based in Como.

"I think the drive Lake Como-MXP is easier from the west side of the lake"

Via Regina (SS340) has the most traffic while Statale Lariana (SS583) has less. If one is going to MXP by car from Bellagio, one could argue the trip is faster if you remain on the east side of the lake, which is what most car services/taxis will do from Bellagio.

IMO, unless you wish to take the "local" ferry to Bellagio, which is also the longest ride, no other option provides what I would call a "scenic" choice. The windows on the high-speed hydrofoil are cloudy. I find them annoying. It seems the hydrofoil's only purpose is to get you there quickly. (One hour Como-Bellagio.)

The very efficient train ride to Varenna does get prettier once the lake comes into view as you enter Lecco. But I wouldn't call this view "scenic" because foliage blocks the view. Plus, Varenna is a quick 15 minutes from Lecco, so there's very little time to gather your luggage and make sure you're near the door to exit. These trains do not permit casual exits. You have very few seconds to get off the train before the doors shut. If you miss the opportunity, you'll add another 90 minutes onto your arrival time.

I also meant to add, with only four nights, I would stay put in one place and enjoy what you can. No matter what anybody on this board says, Bellagio is an absolutely lovely town with lots to see and do and fun places to eat. Tons of charm.

Thx Big_Red and NYCFS

Can you tell me how far is the ferry from Como S Giov station? Given we will be fast training all the way from Rome, we will want to get to our destination asap, so the fast ferry will probably be our choice.

The pro-driver has gotten back to me, it's a longer ride to MXP from Varenna. From the other towns, it's much the same, approx 2 hrs. He also suggests for 1st timers, Bellagio is the place to be.

s

"Can you tell me how far is the ferry from Como S Giov station?"

It's about a 20-30 minute walk, depending on your struggle with luggage. The train station is near Via Tolomeo Gallio, which turns into Via Giuseppe Garibaldi. Bear left onto Via Fratelli Cairoli. Turn right on Lungo Lario Trento. The ferry docks are near Via Caio Plinio Secondo. You can't miss them. If I have heavy luggage, I call for a taxi. The taxi phone numbers are on advertising signs at the station. It's a ridiculous taxi ride, I know, but I refuse to struggle with luggage on Italy's streets. I usually travel alone. Sometimes, you get lucky and a taxi will be there waiting.

"it's a longer ride to MXP from Varenna."

Varenna sits a little further north and east of Bellagio. Como (the town) and Bellagio are closer to MXP than Varenna.

Getting to Bellagio quickly by public transportation will always depend on the schedules. The Milan-Como trip is one schedule, the Como-Bellagio hydrofoil is another. If these schedules don't marry well, this trip could easily take you longer than Milano Centrale-Varenna-Ferry to Bellagio. Speed and efficiency will always depend on whether the schedules work in your favor.

"He also suggests for 1st timers, Bellagio is the place to be."
I would agree. Such a comment can fuel a serious debate on this board. There are plenty of threads that offer my-choice-is-better-than-your-choice battles. Personally, my favorite town is Varenna. But I've gotten to know Lake Como really well and my camera says the views from Varenna are the most dramatic of all. For me, it's all about the best views. But I seriously love the charm and upscale nature of Bellagio. The sun sets on both Bellagio and Varenna so you can't go wrong with either.

Thanks NYCFoodSnob for your great advice.

Do you have the link to the Como-Bellagio hydrofoil timetable?

I'll probably opt for taxi between the train station and the ferry wharf. Knowing my better half, we'll have a suitcase plus shopping from Rome. I wouldn't want to roll them through narrow Italian streets!

I know Varenna is beautiful. flygirl has a great photo, taken from her hotel balcony,

http://www.flickr.com/photos/skywalkerbeth/2772292260/in/set-72157606784813653/

I am glad you agree with my decision to stay in Bellagio on our first visit. I am sure we will return so this trip will give us a taste of Como and surrounds and find our favourite spot for future visits.

In terms of hotel, I made an online search on the Hotel Metropole website last night, there were still rooms available but when I did it again this morning, some 12 hours later, the search returned negative, no rooms left. I have since emailed them to make a direct enquiry. Hope they respond favourably.

s

Here's the link to the ferry schedule. You'll have to check again in April for the summer schedule.

http://www.navigazionelaghi.it/eng/com/nlc_ora.html

I also prefer the views from Varenna but recommend sleeping in Bellagio for the first-time visitor.

Swagman, thanks for the compliments on my photos! The one in particular was taken from the balcony of the Eremo Gaudio, which was reco'd to me by NYCFoodSnob herself. We've stayed there twice now. If you don't stay at this hotel, you absolutely must must take the time to at least have a drink from its terrace. The location/view/peacefulness - utterly divine.

NYCFoodSnob - I based my comment on the drive based on if Swagman actually stayed the last night in Lenno. I agree, if he's in Bellagio the night before - don't cross the lake the next morning. I thought back when I was asking your advice about the Lake that in general the western drive is easier - but that you want to be there already.

Lake Como is heaven on earth to me, as trite as that sounds. I simply love it there. In fact we just changed our summer vacation plans from the UK, to another trip to Lake Como and Venice (another place after my heart).

"I'll probably opt for taxi between the train station and the ferry wharf."

To see the walk path with precision, go to http://www.bing.com/maps/. In the top Bing url window, type Como San Giovanni, Lombardy, Italy. The default view is Road. Click on Aerial, then click on Bird's Eye. The walkway through the park is called Viale Tokamachi. Follow the directions I provided above. Just to the east of Piazza Cavour, you can see the square building that looks like it's floating on water. That's the ticket office.

You can't be intimidated by calling a taxi. Simply ask the person on the phone if they speak English. Almost all dispatchers speak a little English. If you don't have a GSM cell phone, you'll need to figure out the Italian pay phones. Calling cards are the easiest form of payment. The taxi ride is five minutes.

"Varenna is beautiful. flygirl has a great photo"

Ms. Fly is fly. Generous, too.

"the (hotel)search returned negative"

I never rely on internet bookings or email to secure a must-have room. International calling cards are so inexpensive these days. I always call the hotel directly.

"I based my comment on the drive based on if Swagman actually stayed the last night in Lenno."

Yes, Lenno is further south, making it slightly closer to MXP. I love Lenno but, IMO, it's a jewel one reserves after the other jewels are experienced first.

I believe Northwest required us to be at

In Sept, 2009 Northwest, out of Amsterdam, required us to check in 3 hours prior to flight. Be sure to check if it is
2 or 3 hours.

I'd vote for Rome because of the huge amount of local congestion in and around the lakes. I have been only once and although it is absolutely breathtaking, the time it took to drive from Milan to the lakes was a waste of precious holiday time. The traffic in April on a weekend was bumper to bumper and the traffic was so bad that we parked the car ON the highway from time to time which is what all of the locals do! If you were going in OFF season it would be pleasant, however, July it will be PACKED with vacationers! I'd spend the time in Rome. There is ALWAYS so much to see and discover! ENJOY!

"I have been only once"

And here lies the problem of taking internet advice too seriously. A one time visit does not constitute an absolute. It's more like an anomaly. I have been to Lake Como for the past four summers. High season. July, August and September. I stay for a minimum of three weeks each visit. I have never been in a traffic jam as the one chocobon has described. I'm not saying such things don't happen. Car accidents do happen in Italy and many highways are only two lanes.

Before my first trip to Lake Como, I read many reports about terrible traffic on Via Regina. Looking back, I'd say now those posters deserved to be ignored. I've yet to experience bad traffic in and around Lake Como. But, then again, I drive in NYC. These things are all relative. In all my weekend photos of Lake Como, I managed to shoot every street without a car on it. That's impossible in NYC unless you're shooting on Christmas morning or on Saturday morning during the Jewish holidays.

Morning rush hour to MXP will be considered by your car service. They will ask for flight times and tell you what time is pick-up. Italian car service drivers to MXP know how to work around traffic jams. They know the side streets.

You are right NYCFoodSnob, it's all about matching the schedules. According to the ferry timetable link Jean so kindly provided, the fast ferry we'll be after leaves at 16.00 but we arrive at Como S G at 13.43, so a full 2-hour wait plus another hour on the hydrofoil. As I said before, after a 3 hour trip up from Rome, we will certainly want to get to Bellagio asap.

But as Jean pointed out, the ferry schedule is for winter, I shall check the summer schedule upon its release.

So a better connection is actually to Varenna Esino, an extra half hour train ride from Como S G but ferries to Bellagio are more regular and a shorter ride.

Hotel Florence has replied with availability. I will double check with them if the room is air-conditioned, we may need it for the summer heat! I am still waiting for a reply from Metropole.

Thank you all again!

s

PS Given it is only mid-Feb, the hotels may still be in shut-down mode.

Patience is a virtue that no trip planner seems to possess.

Most Lake Como hotels are closed in the winter. Emails may take two to three days to answer.

The summer ferry schedule begins on 24 May. Last year's schedule offered a 13.30 and 14.20 Servizio Rapido. There's a 14.00 on Sundays. I doubt your 13.43 arrival time is reliable this early in the year. You'll have plenty of time to figure this all out as you get closer to your departure date.

DO NOT attempt both, save Rome for another trip. I would recommend Lake Como and if you choose visit some of the other Lake District areas. BUT, leave Rome for it's own visit,off season / spring or fall; after 9 trips of one to two weeks, we still return.

"Patience is a virtue that no trip planner seems to possess. "

Blame the internet! In the not too old days, you call them up or you send faxes and you would never expect instantaneous reply. Nowadays with email, we expect instant reply only taking into consideration the different time zones!

Hotel Florence only has a/c in some of their rooms.

Hotel Metropole apparently has recently been refurbished and on its website promotes their rooms as being individually air-conditioned. 150E per night with side lake view, add 10E per night for front balcony room, inclusive of breakfast and VAT. I think I will stay there.

Now with Como sorted out, I am now making enquires for Rome, wish me luck...

s

swagman

I just realized I never answered you about the seaplanes. They base at Como itself and if I recall it was in the 'hood of 200 euros for both Mom and me. I don't remember exactly, maybe it was a little less.

http://www.aeroclubcomo.com/Home/tabid/36/language/en-US/Default.aspx


Re: traffic jams. My first visit: driving from MXP to Menaggio to catch the ferry... it's a narrow and windy road and I didn't know the road... as a result I wasn't exactly Speed Demon. Mom looked behind me and said "erm, you're leading a parade here, you might want to notch it up a bit". hahaha

We drove from Varenna south, I can't remember the name of the main road and it was bumper to bumper due to road works. it took twice as long if not more than we had planned for. Of course road works are a thing you cannot really plan for!!

Please try and see Villa Balbianello, just fabulous!

Trying to get to the other side of the lake for the last night to make your "escape" more easy is not such a silly idea. you will have had three nights in Bellagio, maybe one night somewhere else could be an idea.

Schnauzer