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4 days in Edinburgh

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We' ve a week in the UK in July, want to spend the first 4 days in Edinburgh, then come back to London for 3 days before taking our cruise out of Southampton, our itinerary is as follows:
June 30 - arr Heathrow, then on to Edinburgh
July 4 - back to London
July 7 - Southampton and cruise
What would be the best way to get to Edinburgh, flight or train? Haven't ever been there and want suggestions aboiut what to see and do. DH is an avid golfer, so we'd certainly go to St. Andrews, how far ahead does one have to book to be able to play? How easy is it to get around by public transport or would it be better to rent a car? And could we take a train back on 3rd night, to reach London early 4th morning, this way we'd get 3 full days for our fill of museums. Thanks in advance...

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