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3 wks touring Sicily, what not to miss?

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Arriving Catania in early Oct and leaving from Napoli about 3 weeks later. We prefer things fairly quiet - more ruins and countryside villages then city chaos , though it's sounding like some will need to be attempted to get the best of South Italy and Sicily. We'll rent a car , and prefer to stay in self catering studios and B+B's , shop markets and enjoy a glass of wine on a balcony at sunset (yes we are old).
Some gems not to miss and places to stay,see and eat on our drive would be most welcome, thank you.
We're on a fairly budget level but can splash out where it's worth it. Hope someone can help...

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