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3 Weeks in Naples, Capri, and the Amalfi Coast!

3 Weeks in Naples, Capri, and the Amalfi Coast!

Old Nov 26th, 2012, 12:47 PM
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3 Weeks in Naples, Capri, and the Amalfi Coast!

It's been a couple of weeks since our first trip to Italy, and I definitely can't wait to go back and explore more! We were lucky enough to have nearly 3 weeks to spend, and time actually got away from us. We started in Naples for a few nights, and took time to really explore the Campania region. Our itinerary looked like this:

- Flight from Dulles > Munich > Naples - 3 days in Naples at Grand Vesuvio
- Hydrofoil to Capri - 3 days in Capri at La Minerva
- Ferry from Capri to Positano - 6 days at Hotel Marincanto
- Bus from Positano to Sorrento - 7 days at Hotel Antiche Mura
- Car to Naples airport from Sorrento, complete with Andrea Bocelli playing "Time to Say Goodbye" in the cd player (not kidding!) and home!

In hindsight, I would have spent another night or 2 in Naples (loved it, though we stayed in the old historic city!), another night in Capri, stayed in Amalfi versus Positano, and a night or 2 less in Sorrento. But for our first trip, we felt that we saw a lot of attractions, got to relax and spend more time in each place, and I actually made it to my grandfather's hometown in the Avellino province, which was extra special! So here is my Travelogue that I kept as I traveled, along with a link to photos from each area. I hope you enjoy!

Day 1 and 2 - Naples

Easy flight from the US to Munich. The Munich airport is one of the cleanest airports I've been in, and the smoking lounges sponsored by Winston and Camel are, uh, interesting. Our flight landed at 7:30am and we had over an hour to kill before our connection to Naples. We should have followed the lead of almost everyone there and had a liter of beer with our breakfast (!), but I would have been out before the day started! Our connecting flight into Naples flew right over the Alps which was spectacular, and then into the warmth and green of Naples flying right over Mt. Vesuvius!

It was a special feeling coming in. I kept thinking of how my family started a hundred years ago by leaving Naples, on the ship called Madonna. I wonder if they thought about their future generations ever coming back.

Our hotel, the Grand Vesuvio sits right on the Bay of Naples overlooking the Castle d'Ovo in the Santa Lucia neighborhood, and it's lovely. We settled in, then went for lunch for our first pizza Margarita and a bottle of chianti at Ettore. After an afternoon of light sightseeing and lots of photos of laundry hanging from old balconies, we stopped for espresso at Caffe Gambrinus, then came back for a three hour nap. Had a great dInner tonight at Antonio e Antonio - homemade fusilli with fresh cherry tomatoes and basil. And our first homemade limoncello. I think we gave Nino the best tip he got all night, which gave us a second one on the house. So far, I love this part of Naples! It's unpolished, and a working city, not at all manicured. But if the food is any indication of what Naples and Italy has to offer, this is going to be a great trip!

Day 3 - Last day in Naples

Lots of activity today and my feet are killing me. So much going on in the streets, and it hasn't slowed down yet...still going strong at midnight!

Friday we visited the Duomo, the Museo Cappella Sansevero, the Naples Archeological Museum, and squeezed in a late pizza at Pizzeria Da Michele! We waited an hour for the pizza, thankfully beating out the tour group of women I think were doing the Eat, Pray, Love tour! It was heaven.

I've never seen antiquities and artifacts that date back to the 1st century. We saw this famous sculpture called the "Veiled Christ" one of the most incredible things I've ever seen...it was the body of Jesus laying with a veil draped all over his body, all carved in marble, so beautifully done, and still with it's original patina from the 2nd century. The mosiacs and artwork excavated from Pompeii were really incredible including the "Secret Room", the erotic artwork that was uncovered from Pompeii and Herculaneum in the early 19th century!

Dinner was seafood pasta, fried zucchini flowers, and more wine and limoncello (at the seafood restaurant right across from the Grand Vesuvio). The seafront is alive with locals partying, lovers simultaneously arguing and kissing, single women parading their new fashions, and little kids running around playing soccer, at midnight!

It's sad that many people recommended NOT spending time in Naples at all. " It's dangerous, watch out for pickpockets, hide your jewelry, roving gangs of thieves are everywhere!" I'm so glad we didn't give in to fear and decided to linger for a while, because we honestly felt very safe, even with my camera backpack full of equipment on my back the entire time. I even carried my large camera openly, and though I felt people watching it, I never felt threatened or self-conscious.

I didn't find Neapolitans to be as friendly as we usually find in, say, Mexico or other Latin American countries. Children don't seem as carefree and happy as I've seen elsewhere either. Maybe it's a testament to how tough life is here. They aren't UNfriendly, but they can seem rude...I just don't think they care about what you're doing. What's odd about Naples is, it is still a medieval city, just built upon vertically over the centuries. Everywhere you walk, you see the decaying structure underneath. It's like that sculpture, with its original patina from the 2nd century. People here, it seems to me, live AMONG the ruins, and there are hidden treasures everywhere. I think Naples is like the good, the bad, and the ugly of all the cities I've visited - and I loved it!

Link to Naples photos: http://www.lorisorrentino.com/Travel...6182689_tNdpkp
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Old Nov 26th, 2012, 12:58 PM
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Hi travlinmad - a great start!

what I particularly like is your itinerary - a really sensible approach to a first trip, concentrating on one area, rather than trying to see the whole of Italy in a week.
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Old Nov 26th, 2012, 03:36 PM
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Looking forward to reading more about the trip - great start so far!
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Old Nov 26th, 2012, 03:53 PM
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We loved Naples too, it's certainly a place I would highly recommend, particularly to people who have travelled a lot. I'm planning on returning because we only had three days and there was a lot more we wanted to explore.
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Old Nov 27th, 2012, 11:20 AM
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Please continue! I'm considering a trip early next fall to these areas and am gathering all the information I can get.
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Old Nov 27th, 2012, 12:07 PM
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Looking forward to reading about your report on Positano - one of my favorite towns in all of Italy!
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Old Nov 27th, 2012, 12:38 PM
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Waiting for more and more! The A.C. is one of the best regions you can visit in Italy.

Delaine: If you like, you have some data on our visit to the Amalfi Coast in my trip report dated 2009.
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Old Nov 27th, 2012, 01:27 PM
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Loving your report so far and enjoyed the pics! Naples looks good in b+w, doesn't it? The food looks fantastic!!!!!!

More please.
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Old Nov 27th, 2012, 01:52 PM
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Thanks, jelopez33.
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Old Nov 27th, 2012, 03:02 PM
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@ annhig - thanks, we wanted to pace ourselves and no over/under do it for a first trip.
@ arrabiata1 - Capri Tiberio Palace looks amazing, very stylish! Next time, perhaps.
@ welltraveledbrit and zoecat - glad you love Naples too, and yes, zoecat, Naples does look good in b&w, it seems to really fit!

So, it's Day 3 and we're off to Capri.........

The ticket line wasn't long at the Port of Naples and I was glad we stayed in the Santa Lucia area which was only a 5 minute cab ride to the Port. We caught the 10:00am hydrofoil to Capri and got there by noon. Wow, was it beautiful!! Our hotel, La Minerva, had a girl meet us at the Marina Grande, which was nice because it was a little chaotic with people coming and going everywhere. We were told that July and August crowds were much worse than late October, and I was glad we decided to come in the shoulder season.

We took the funicular cable car up to Capri Town (she had tickets for us but they were only a few euro) and took our time walking to the hotel, catching lunch just off the square at Giorgio, a place that smelled just like my grandmother's kitchen -- the pasta ala pomodorini was great and fast becoming my favorite (al dente spaghetti with sauteed sweet cherry tomatoes and garlic, delicioso!) We checked in to La Minerva and were shown to our room with a beautiful terrace overlooking the Faraglioni Rocks. They had a bottle of wine for our 25th anniversary too, nice touch!

Not too far from our hotel were the Gardens of Augustus, so we spent time walking around there, then headed back for coffee drinks and an Aperol Spritz in the Piazzeta and some good people watching. I'm feeling very underdressed in my sundresses and flip flops - I don't think Italian women know what flip flops are because they check me out from head to toe and I don't think they approve. They're all wearing the latest fashions with HUGE heels and big bags, so I must look a sight Dinner tonight was at Da Paulino, a 10 minute cab ride from the Piazetta, and one of our best meals of the trip - try the Risotto al Limone! Tomorrow we're hiking to Villa Jovis, home to the Roman Emperors Augustus, Tiberius and Caligula. Hopefully, we'll have a better time than some of their previous guests!

Day 4 - After sleeping in and a late breakfast at La Minerva (breakfasts here were great!), we headed to town to pick up a picnic lunch for our hike to Villa Jovis. There is a great salumeria (deli) near the cab area past the clock tower and their sandwiches were great. It was a leisurely hike up to the top of the island, through neighborhoods and past beautiful villas. Villa Jovis was pretty amazing. The ruins are nearly 2,000 years old, but some rooms are still intact and you can still walk through the servant quarters underneath the Imperial Palace. Lots of original small mosaic flooring is also visible, and its amazing to walk where the Roman Emperors Augustus, Tiberius, and Caligula once walked. What IS hard to imagine is how such a beautiful place could have brought out such insanity and madness in these men. The setting is beautiful, looking directly across the Bay to Naples and the rest of the Roman Empire. We also enjoyed the hike to the Villa, through neighborhoods where you could see and hear the daily life all around - people having Sunday dinner, families gathered, kids running around, radios and TVs playing Mass, the SMELLS of Sunday sauce, garlic, and fried peppers (hubby & I both enjoyed that one!) It was nice to be among all that.

On the way back, we decided to try another adjoining hike listed in our Sunflower Guide, to the Natural Arch and the Via Matermania. After heading down Via Tiberio, follow signs to the left and Arco Naturale, and follow the steps down to view the Arch. You'll pass a restaurant just before the Arch and there are steps just BEFORE the restaurant, leading down to the Grotta Matermania, and around the eastern half of the island. You'll pass the Faraglioni Rocks, Villa Malaparte, and eventually wind around to the Via Tragara, one of the most beautiful neighborhoods, with dream Villas and gardens. To me, this part of Capri looks just Iike a Maxfield Parrish painting! At the end of the hike, you're rewarded with a lemon stand selling granita, which is so refreshing after a long hike. Dinner was fresh pasta and fish at Buca di Bacco near the Piazetta, and one of the best yet.

Capri was so beautiful and chic, with high end shopping and glamour. But lots of tourists, and we were told this is the slow time of year. My best advice would be to STAY OVER! We didn't have enough time in 3 days - didn't get to see the Blue Grotto, though I'm not too disappointed. But we did see a lot of the island's narrow streets, quieter parts, beautiful hikes, great restaurants, and I walked in the footsteps of emperors and Jackie O. So we were happy!

Tomorrow, it's off to Positano!

Here's a link to photos of Capri: http://www.lorisorrentino.com/Travel...6183071_QZVMmp
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Old Nov 28th, 2012, 01:53 AM
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hi again, travlin'

by co-incidence i've just been reading Matthew Fort's book about riding a Vespa round Italy in search of food; his description of his drive into Naples is hysterical, but he loved the food there, especially the tripe, though he felt that the pizza wasn't very good.

looking forward to Positano!
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Old Nov 28th, 2012, 08:38 AM
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I'm really enjoying your trip report. And your photographs are simply beautiful! I'm looking forward to seeing what comes next!
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Old Nov 28th, 2012, 09:05 AM
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@ShellD -- hey there, I usually run into you in the CR forum - you've given me great feedback for our trips to BdC

Continuing on to Positano....

Days 5 – 7

We arrived in Positano from Capri in early afternoon, left our bags with a porter and headed up the many steps to our home for the next leg of our trip, Hotel Marincanto. The weather was great, lots of activity down by the beach and shoppers everywhere. Seeing Positano for the first time was surreal, like a painting that’s come to life. Really beautiful!

Our HOTEL -- I had debated a long while before deciding on Hotel Marincanto -- whether to stay on the beach, mid way up the hill, or toward the top. Hotel Marincanto was closer to the top, with tons of steps and walking to really get anywhere, even hiking down to their beach. However, in my opinion, everything about the hotel was top-notch – the service was wonderful, hotel employees went out of their way to help you, get more coffee, chat about your day, and help with itinerary suggestions. A big plus was how close it was to the Sponda bus stop, which was very convenient for us going back and forth to Amalfi and Ravello. When I was researching our trip, a post had caught my eye that described Room 224 of Hotel Marincanto as possibly having the best view in all of Positano, and as luck would have it, both the hotel AND the room was available. I knew I wanted to get some good photos of Positano from above, and this room really did have a fantastic view! Well worth checking into.

FOOD – We had some of our best meals here with perhaps the best being Donna Rosa, Saraceno d’Oro, and Buca di Bacco for lunch! Donna Rosa sent a shuttle for us our first night, the food and service was incredible, and it was nice to be able to watch your meal being prepared right there in the kitchen. Honestly, we didn’t have a bad meal experience the entire time. The thing I had to get used to was pacing myself. After a while I realized I could get away with a Contorni or two (side dishes) if I wanted a lighter meal. And of course, every meal came with very good wine, and always limoncello!

For the next few days, we slowed down and relaxed -- swam in the sea (rocky and very chilly in late October) but the sun was still warm. We relaxed by the pool, and enjoyed the town. It's very touristy here, but at night it seemed to close up tight, maybe because the town itself was getting ready to close for the season in a few days.

Days 7 - 8

We took the bus to Amalfi each day for our last two days. Our first day, we hiked a few of the shorter hikes in the Sunflower guide, which took us through lovely little side streets and piazzas with no tourists! The Duomo is definitely worth seeing and is very convenient right off the main Piazza. After a full day of hiking, shopping, and nibbling along the way, we headed back to Positano in time for an early dinner and bed.

The next day we returned to Amalfi to see Ravello. The next bus up to Ravello was in 45 minutes, but someone ahead of us asked the red tourist bus (the one with no top) if they could hop aboard their ride to Ravello and they said yes, so we tagged along. Good to know if you’re left waiting for a bus up the hill. We even got free earphones for the ride and enjoyed the open air ride up to Ravello.

Our first stop was to a salumeria off the main Piazza – ask for Anna Maria, Queen of Sandwiches! She really does have a sign on the counter that says just that, and she really does make great sandwiches. We ordered two (mozzarella, tomatoes, basil, marinated artichokes, salami and prosciutto!) and set off for Villa Cimbrone. We spent the next few hours walking around, taking photos, and having a picnic lunch, before heading back to the square. We chose the hike from Ravello to Atrani (Sunflower guide) as our way back down - VERY LONG with TONS of steps, but well worth the views if you’re up for it! The hike brings you right underneath the cliffs under Villa Cimbrone, and down into Atrani, a quaint medieval town where you can stop and drink from the fresh water fountain in the square. Then a light hike around the cliff takes you through side streets and back into Amalfi. It was a great but exhausting day. By that time I was done with hiking, but we still have Pompeii to go!

The ride back on the bus made me carsick, between the winding curves, diesel exhaust, and the guy behind me with bad breath and even worse cologne...ah, the joys of public transportation. After a few bitters and club sodas back at the hotel to settle my stomach, we enjoyed dinner on the beach with nice conversation with couples from Philly and the UK.

After a few days in Positano, we lost all sense of time and day here....but that's the point of vacation, right? My husband said it was Thursday one morning (according to his phone) and that would mean we had….TWO more nights here instead of the ONE I originally thought? It was then I realized I had REconfirmed our reservation for only 5 nights, instead of 6. Well this was awkward. Now we can't seem to figure this out without asking the staff at Reception. Scoosie, Signore, when do we check out?!

But, “No problem, Signora, we will move you to another room for your last night.” A few more steps down the hill was a small price to pay, because our room for our last night was bigger, with a bathtub and a great view. And that tub was a welcome sight after a week in Positano!

For our last night, we had dinner at Ristorante Max which was very good (try their stuffed zucchini flowers), then back to the hotel. We’re catching the bus tomorrow to Sorrento and our last week here!

Overall, I enjoyed Positano, but found the stairs and constant walking to get anywhere a bit tiring. After seeing Amalfi, I think that would have been a better fit for the kind of trip we wanted. The weather was also turning cool when we were there - and I think we would have enjoyed Positano more if we could have spent more time in and on the water.

Next stop, Sorrento!
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Old Nov 28th, 2012, 09:08 AM
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Almost forgot - here's the link to Positano photos: http://www.lorisorrentino.com/Travel...6180963_Zp7V2W

Hope you enjoy!
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Old Nov 28th, 2012, 10:17 AM
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Lori, your photos are just amazing! Last October we began our honeymoon in Positano and your photos really brought me back. Can I ask what camera you use?
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Old Nov 28th, 2012, 10:28 AM
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Lori, I'm so glad I've been able to help out on the CR forums! I've loved our travels to Costa Rica, and especially BDC! This year we're venturing out in a huge way and heading to our first trip to Europe! Can't wait! I've been over here on the Italy forums quite a bit! And I'm trying to make the jump to more than just a photo enthusiast to a professional photographer, so your pictures have really caught my eye.

I'm off to check out your next set from Positano!
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Old Nov 28th, 2012, 10:31 AM
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Thank you bostonallison. I use a variety of DSLR and point and shoot bodies and lenses, all Canon. I took most of it and a tripod with me.
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Old Nov 28th, 2012, 10:36 AM
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ShellD, this was our first trip to Italy and we enjoyed it. I have to say that it didn't grab me the way Latin America does, and my husband and I are 2nd gen Italian. Maybe it was too familiar Good luck in the photo transition, I'm happy to inspire!
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Old Nov 28th, 2012, 01:23 PM
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Wow---you are good!
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Old Nov 28th, 2012, 04:02 PM
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Well, thank you bobthenavigator! I really appreciate your suggestions you gave me in helping to plan my trip!
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