travelcat48

We will be going to Italy for the first time in Sept/Oct of next year after a return trip first to Paris. Our in-the-works itinerary is as follows...but would like your input particularly about the Tuscany/Rapallo (or Santa Margherita?) days as well as anything else you could recommend. Thanks so much.

Sept 7-Sept 22 Paris
Fly to Rome, stay 4 nights
Train to Orvieto for 2 nights...rent car when we leave
Pienza for 4 nights
drive to Siena and drop off car (can we drop car at another easier location and train to Siena?)
Siena 5 nights(?)
Florence 3 nights
Rapallo or SM for 4 nights (Cinque Terre as day trip)
to Florence for 1 night....fly home

We love to explore towns/cities on foot, or in Pienza plan to drive to Montepulciano and other small towns for day trips. We are not so great with museums, would rather be outside exploring this little street, that little road, cafes, beautiful old buildings(everywhere, I know), discovering the local "flavor". We loved the Dordogne last year for that....but we also loved Paris. So basically we are there to enjoy whatever presents itself to us.
Looking forward to hearing your feedback and ideas. This itinerary is in the "egg stage".
Thanks, pam

voyager61

It looks like you have plenty of time for your travels. It might be nice to do a week-long rental in Chianti and day trip from a central base. There are MANY villages and restaurants to explore in that area, and views are beautiful from some of the rentals. One question might be why not leave Florence for the end, since you are flying from there anyway. You might have your reasons...we don't always love ending a European trip in a city because we get more relaxed in the countryside, so maybe that is your thinking.

Since you have already traveled in France, you should have no difficulty with Italy...hardest part will be shifting from one language to the other when you move from France to Italy. We have done that twice, and it's always funny what we end up saying during the first two days of the transition.

michelhuebeli

If you can find a place where you can turn the car in at or near Chiusi, the train from Chiusi-Chianciano Terme station takes about 80 minutes to Siena, it's a regional train that requires no reservations so you can pick the next one that leaves (about one an hour) without having to worry about a rigid schedule.

Can you fly home from Genova? Saves a lot of time! Even Pisa is better than Florence if all you want from Florence is the airport for the flight out.

bobthenavigator

I like it---my kind of trip.
Yes, drop the car at Siena--it is not hard to do, but you will likely have to taxi to your hotel.

Try to fly home from Pisa if you can--even MXP is an option.

Here are some food options:

GOOD EATS IN TOSCANA
I have never been called “ BOB THE FOODIE” , but here are some of the best places to eat in Tuscany based on feedback from many of my clients. Reservations are suggested for most!$=inexpensive $$=moderate prices $$$= expensive

FLORENCE:
Osteria del Cinghiale Bianco $$ Across the river & very good.
La Giostra $$$ Excellent, but you must book in advance

SIENA:
Osteria Le Logge $$ Great place for lunch and near Il Campo
Cane e Gato $$$ A fixed price & menu for a true feast—allow 4 hours

LUCCA:
Buca di San Antonio $$ Best in town and near San Michele
Il Giglio $$ In the piazza of the same name---favorite with locals

SAN GIMIGNANO:
Il Pino $$ Very good typical Tuscan fare
Le Vecchie Mura $ Good value for a tourist town

MONTALCINO:
Taverna Grappolo Blu $ Popular with locals as well.
Ristorante Poggio Antico $$ Excellent cuisine 5km south of town at winery location
Enoteca Osteria Osticcio $ Best wine tasting & small meals in town

MONTEPULCIANO:
La Grotta $$ Near San Biagio church & very good
Café Poliziano $ Great place for lunch on shopping street

Osteria Acquacheta Best bistecca in Tuscany

PIENZA: Latte du Luna $$ Best choice in this charming village

BAGNO VIGNONI: Osteria del Leone $ Good lunch choice in this spa hamlet

MONTICCHIELLO: La Porta $ Charming place with outside terrace

SAN QUIRICO: Trattoria al Vecchio Forno $ Good food & fair value

travelcat48

thanks for the input....somehow hadn't thought to fly out of Pisa as didn't think I could (flying to San Francisco)...will definitely check into that. Florence just seemed closer than going to Milan for flight home.

bobthenavigator: thanks for those restaurant suggestions. Will definitely keep those in our folder to take.
As for the car drop-off...had heard driving in Siena was not a good idea. So hopefully the car drop off is in an easily accessible location?

voyager61: where would you recommend to use as a base in the Chianti area if we decided to do that?

mamcalice

I'm not sure why 5 nights in Siena unless 1) you want to rest for a few days or 2) you are using it for a base to explore Tuscany. I might consider an agritourismo or villa in the countryside with a day trip to Siena. We love Siena but not necessarily as a place to stay for 5 days.

Jean

Five nights in Siena without a car? I'd probably do 6 nights Pienza and 3 nights Siena. (BTW, Siena is not a small town with little, quiet streets. It will be crowded. And, FWIW, I prefer Montepulciano over Pienza, but that's me.)

I wouldn't switch from Pienza to somewhere in Chianti unless you decide Chianti suits you more than the Val d'Orcia. I like Chianti more than most, but I'd rather stay in the Val d'Orcia.

I'd also put all of the Florence nights at the end.

travelcat48

Thanks mamcalice for your input.....I like the idea of staying in Siena and exploring it for a few days as well as in the eves....also a few day trips by train elsewhere?(San G? where else?) Maybe 5 nights IS too long...

Jean... maybe we should do 6 nights in Pienza and 4 in Siena...
we have decided to fly out of Pisa so will go there from the coast. And why Montepulciano over Pienza? Would love to hear your thoughts on that.
thanks again...this is helping so much!

bobthenavigator

I agree with Jean that Pienza per se may not be the best place to stay in the Val d' Orcia---I would prefer both San Quirico and MP---but hard to go wrong in that area.

travelcat48

bofthenavigator: read your trip report for this area 2011 and decided to go with MP rather than Pienza. Can you recommend where to stay, with parking for the car? We're now thinking of 6 nights.

kybourbon

Montepulciano is bigger than Pienza, but Pienza is easier to drive in and out for day trips. Pienza is also more central in the area, but depends on which towns you want to see.

Delta has seasonal flights Pisa/JFK, otherwise you will be connecting somewhere in Europe just like if you depart from Florence.

travelcat48

Thanks kybourbon....we are still discovering via this site and guidebooks which towns to visit. Having trouble finding somewhere to stay in Montepulciano that has enough parking and is easily accessible. May end up going with Pienza, which seems like a fine choice as well. Still researching.
Any hotel or b&b recs for either place?

bilboburgler

I struggle with being excited with Pienza, though the place is full of Americans on their coaches passing through or staying for the night. I'd merit it a couple of hours walk around (though I have had a meal with probably the most romantic view of my life there only partially spoiled by an adult US brat behaving badly at the next table), given that there are so many beautiful towns and villages nearby.... shakes head, moves on.

kybourbon

I've never encountered any Americans in Pienza and have stayed there a couple of times. I have experienced one bus load of Germans.

Pienza is tiny, but if you are visiting hill towns during the day, it's unlikely you will encounter any tour buses except ones you encounter in those towns (Montepulicano gets it's share).

If you want a choice of restaurants at night, Pienza, Montepulciano and Montalcino have enough to choose from so you have a variety for a 6 day stay. Most other towns in the area aren't big enough to support a selection and will only have one or two.

>>>Having trouble finding somewhere to stay in Montepulciano that has enough parking and is easily accessible.<<<

I'm not sure what you mean be accessible parking. Many places will have some type of arrangement for parking, but might not be too close.

I have a long list of places to stay in Montepulciano, but will have to locate it tonight after work.

I would consider flying into Milan (or Pisa if you can) and head to the CT first. Starting in the north may give you better weather at that time of year (and a bit more daylight). You could spend the night in Milan if you wanted to get over jet lag and then head to the CT for a few days. Visit Florence a few days, bus to Siena for a few days, then pick up your car for the rest of Tuscany, dropping it in Orvieto before ending the trip in Rome.

bobthenavigator

http://www.politian.com/

Best value in town

zoecat

I like that you are adjusting to more days in the countryside and less in Siena. There is plenty to explore and experience in the countryside to keep you happy for 6 days.

I suggest that since you're there to experience the countryside, that you actually stay in the countryside and not in a town. There are many beautiful and wonderful agriturismi in the area that offer nice apartments and lovely properties, set in some of the most spectacular settings. And, most are easy to drive in/out for day trips.

I enjoy staying at this place (7 times!), with great surroundings, lovely owners, and located just 3km outside of Pienza-

http://www.fontebertusi.it/eng/

Here are a few more to choose from, all located in the countryside or small town in the countryside-

http://www.santamariapienza.it/index.php?lang=ing

http://www.agriturismocasalpiano.it/index.html

http://www.cretaiole.it/index.en.php
(Excellent location)

http://www.cretedisiena.com/Casa_Picchiata/english.htm
(Excellent location)

http://www.terredinano.com/pages_eng...o_toscana.aspx

http://www.lafonte.toscana.it/2006/ita/
(Excellent location)

http://www.agriturismosangallo.com/ENG/home.html

http://www.tobruk.it/agriturismo.php?lingua=en
(Incredible views and a beautiful property)

http://www.casafrati.toscana.nu/
(Well priced)

http://www.lupaia.com/location.html
(A beautiful B&B located in the valley below Montepulciano)

http://www.lafoce.com/
(Beautiful apartments/houses/villa/property- very special)

http://www.lacasadiadelina.com/index...t&id=9&lang=en
(A small, lovely B&B located within the small, lovely town of Monticchiello)

http://www.lemaribelle.it/intro.en.php
(3 apartments located in Monticchiello)

If none of the above works for you, consider searching these two websites-

http://www.cretedisiena.com/english/

http://www.vrbo.com/vacation-rentals...cany/valdorcia

On another note, here are some of my favorite towns/villages to visit in the area-

Montisi
Castelmuzio
Petroio
Castiglione d'Orcia
Rocca d'Orcia
Sarteano
Radicofani
Lucignano d'Asso (have a simple 15 euro lunch of local cold meats, cheeses and wine there at the small alimentari, located at the end of the village near the old church. Especially nice on a sunny day when you can eat outside)
Trequanda (Trattoria Il Conte Matto is nice for lunch)
Monticchiello
Montefollonico (lunch at Osteria La Botte Piena. Owned by a brother/sister, the food is great and the local wine offerings are expansive)
Cetona
Citta d. Pieve (Saturday is market day)

Further south (1 to 1.5 hour drive) and still very green in Sept/Oct-

Piancastagnaio
S. Fiora
Roccalbegna
Sorano (have lunch at the beautiful and inexpensive Cantina L'Ottava Rima, located within a cave in the town. Open weekends only. Local simple food, cold meats, cheeses, beers, wine- one of my favorite places to eat in southern Tuscany)
Pitigliano

Favorite sights-

Abbazia d. Monte Oliveto Maggiore
Abbey S. Galgano (I love it! Located southwest of Siena)
La Foce garden tour
Bosco della Ragnaia (an enticing park cut out of the landscape by artist Sheppard Craig, located just north of San Giovanni d'Asso)

Mimar

Why only 4 nights in Rome? You seem to like cities and urban ambiance. There's so much to see in Rome, not just museums.

If you do reverse your trip, you'll get to the Cinque Terre earlier, so improving your odds of better weather. And you could fly out of Rome, lots of options there. Plus the 2 cities will bookmark your countryside experience, for a good conrast.

I like Pienza or San Quirico d'Orcia as bases when doing a driving tour of southern Tuscany. Easy to drive in and out, convenient parking.

Jean

Montepulciano v. Pienza v. somewhere else....

I think people connect with the vibe of a place, and some prefer being outside a town rather than inside. We decided years ago that we preferred being in a town rather than in a more isolated spot, and Montepulciano just 'clicked' for us the first time we stopped there for lunch. I do think the flatness of Pienza appeals to some tours.

You don't state a budget, so I have no idea what you're looking for budget-wise, but we stayed a week (3rd in October) at La Locanda di San Francesco in Montepulciano. We parked outside the front door of the hotel and found driving into/out of the town extremely easy. Views are lovely, and we could just make out Lake Trasimeno from our room.

http://www.locandasanfrancesco.it/index.php

Book early. Only 4 rooms.

Henry

travelcat48,
This may help http://www.slowtrav.com/italy/tuscany/hs_planning.htm

voyager61

Although you have already received many suggestions for accommodations and seem to have your itinerary more set, the agritourismo we chose in Chianti is Villa Il Palagio in Panzano. Look it up on Trip Advisor and there is also a website: www.palagiowineandoil.com. This villa has several apartments, plenty of parking, is on the edge of Panzano overlooking a beautiful valley and you can do a healthy walk from there into town for groceries, coffee, the farmer's market. Panzano is tiny, but well located to day trip to other locations.

The advantage for us of spending more time in this type of location was 1.) being able to cook using ingredients from the local markets; 2.) feeling like we got to know the rhythms of the town and even became familiar with some of the people in the town; 3.) were able to come to a true home for the days when we wanted to just sit on the terrace with a book, some good food and the view in front of us.

That said, I don't think you will be sitting by the pool when you are there because the weather will be different that time of year. We were there in late May/early June.

We loved the sleepiness of Panzano after being in Paris and Rome, but you might want more activity and variety, so the larger towns would be a better choice for that.