Robby_Rob

Hello all,

Three of us will be going to France & Spain in a week and staying in Carcassonne for 3 nights and have 4 days to explore the area. (We'll be driving up from Girona, then returning to the Costa Brava for a few days.)

I understand that Carcassonne can be lovely at night, but often a bit overrun and unpleasant during the day, so I'm thinking of making little day trips each day: e.g., Canal du Midi, Chateau de Peyreperteuse, etc. Any advice along these lines would be most welcome.

StuDudley, i understand you have an itinerary that might help me decide what coastal towns near Perpignan to visit and what route to take between the Spanish border and Carcassonne. Any chance you might be able to email it to me? [email protected] Many thanks in advance!

I would also appreciate any restaurant recommendations for these areas.

Thanks so much for your help!
Rob

annhig

hi Rob,

what time of year are you travelling? I only mention this because when we visited this area at the beginning of September a couple of years ago, it was VERY hot. we never got to the centre of Carcassonne due to the traffic, and didn't fancy the idea of staying there and having to cope with that every day.

we ended up staying near Perpignan in a little town called Elne, which we loved, and made a great base for visiting the coast [which was "complet"] and Perpignan itself, which we loved too.

good luck,

regards, ann

Pvoyageuse

The most scenic road between the Spanish border and Carcassonne is via Port-Bou, Cerbere, Banyuls, Port-Vendres and Collioure.
From Perpignan, go to Quillan via Saint-Paul de Fenouillet(Peyrepertuse, Queribus and Puylaurens are on the way) then to Limoux and finally Carcassonne.
You can also go via Lagrasse and the Corbieres.

There is an excellent restaurant in Montner near Estagel "l'Auberge du Cellier". In Quillan "La Pierre-Lys" on the road to Limoux.

Blockchuckster

In the great FYI category, a nice little sidetrip (2-2 1/2 hours by train via Toulouse) would be a jaunt up to Albi. If you're a fan of the art, the Musee Toulouse-Lautrec has purportedly the largest single collection of his in the world (75 pieces). My wife and I are going next summer and it was like two birds with one stone for me in planning, Toulouse-Latrec and Carcassonne close by each other to make that leg of the trip extra special. Bon Voyage!

ira

Hi RR,

You might find it helpful to read what others had to say about Carcassone on my trip report:
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...oes-france.cfm

I would base in Narbonne (2* from Michelin), go to the beach at Narbonne Plage, and visit Carcassone for an afternoon and an evening.

Enjoy your visit.

roussillon

I would agree with Ira that not basing yourself in Carcassonne is a better idea. One night maybe, but not more. That way you can enjoy the quiet evening after the busloads leave, but then go on to other things. Albi is very nice if it is not too far out of your way.

On the way south I would definitely stop at Collioure (pretty little port with lots of art history), Ceret inland a bit (nice little catalan village with a very nice Modern Art museum with a good new exhibition on local landscapes), Figueres in Spain for the Dali museum (crowded so get there early) and tapas at the SE corner of their Rambla at Lizarran. Also pick out one or two Costa Brava towns you can research, or visit Cadaques which has changed very little in 40 yrs. and maybe book on the internet a reservation to visit Port LLigat (the actual home of Dali and Gala which is worth the detour) just behind cadaques.

Anyway, you will have fun. Going the inland route from Carcassone via Quillan is a very nice little detour compared to the autoroute. Just keep in mind it will take a lot longer than it looks. Best, Rouss

StCirq

I would NEVER base myself in Carcassonne, and I'm a longtime visitor to that region and a fan of Carcassonne itself. I think that's a very bad choice. The lower town is ugly and congested, and the upper town is simply overrun during the daytime and a bit of a bore in the evenings.

You could base yourself in Narbonne, on the coast, or Castelnaudary, inland, or any number of places and just make a visit to Carcassonne. You've gotten great advice from lots of people about other places to see in the area. I would add that the whole circuit from Carcassonne to Albi is a wonderful drive - through Revel, Puylaurens, Lavaur, Graulhet.

sheila

We visited at Easter. I would definitely NOT stay IN Carcassonne, but I would be at the gate when it opened and out of there as soon after as possible. It was hell at Easter. God alone knows what it's like in the summer.

Worth seeing tho'

Barnum

Carcassonne is much like Mont. St. Michel. A must to see, but then get out quickly. I would choose Collioure.

StCirq

Collioure is lovely, but it too is jammed in summer.

iris1745

Hi; Two nights in Carcassonne would work. We have been twice and stayed once inside and once outside the old city. You could drive the A8 from Spain and head to St-Martin-du-Canigou. It took us forty minutes to walk up to the monestery. Then go to the walled town of Villefranche de-Conflent. From there take the d118 to Carcassonne and arrive late afternoon. The next day go north on the d118 and visit Castres [ a lovely small walled town] and Albi with its Cathedral. Both within easy reach and then return for your second night. If time permitted you could try to visit Cordes. On leaving Carcassonne, spend the next two nights in Collioure. Of course it is busy. But for US, we are the tourists and we love tourists. Dick

Pvoyageuse

Carcassonne is an excellent base to visit the area.
Some day trips :
http://www.carcassonne-tourisme.com/...écouverte

iris1745

Hi; From Carcassonne you could consider 'Pvoyageuses' scenic route back to Collioure. Dick

Robby_Rob

Dear all,

Thank you all so much for the fantastic advice! My apologies for not replying sooner, and not responding to each post individually. I've been a little crazed this week, as I'm actually flying out on this holiday tomorrow evening! (Ann, I think that answers your question!)

I've reviewed all of your advice here and taken it to heart. In case you are interested in my plan (based on your advice), here it is:

Friday night: Arrive midnight in Girona.

Saturday: Pick up rental car in the morning. Drive from Girona to Perpignan along highway. Then take D117 (or N116 if we plan to stop at Pvoyageuse's recommended restaurant in Montner) for stop at Chateau de Peyrepertuse. Then back to St Paul de Fenouillet and along D117 through Quillan and Limoux to Carcassonne, arriving in the evening. Saturday night in Carcassonne (Demeure St Louis).

Sunday: take Iris1745's advice and go north on the d118 and visit Castres and Albi. Return to Carcassonne for night.

Monday: Tour Carcassonnne. Rent bikes and ride along the Canal du Midi. Night in Carcassonne.

Tuesday: Leave Carcassonne. Drive highway to Perpignan then take Pvoyageuse's suggested route in reverse to the Spanish border. Night in L'Escala.

Wednesday: Costa Brava (Cadaques, Dali Museum, beach). Night in L'Escala.

Thursday: Costa Brava (Beach). Night in L'Escala.

Friday: Leave L'Escala. Drop friend at Girona Airport for her flight to Morocco. Continue on to Barcelona. Return rental car and spend weekend in Barcelona.

Saturday: Barcelona

Sunday: Barcelona and fly back to London.

Thanks again to everyone for all the help! When I come back, I'm happy to report back and answer any questions anyone might have, and I'll try to post public links to my Facebook photo albums of the trip!

Happy travels, everybody!
Cheers,
Rob

Robby_Rob

Hello again!

Just following up about the issue of whether to actually stay in Carcassonne. I totally understand the concerns of those who would advise against doing so. But I think for me and for the purposes of this trip, it isn't such a bad choice. As you can see from the itinerary above, I won't actually be spending a whole heck of a lot of time in the city. Besides, if you add up all the time I've already spent in France, it's been over 2 years! I've done a lot of travel in France already, and spent two months living in Montpellier and exploring the area a bit. I figure I can spare 3 nights in Carcassonne, as I know I'll be back to spend more time elsewhere in the region. And I've visited Mont St Michel 3 times, and it was only when I actually stayed overnight (on my last visit), and wandered around late at night when it was rather deserted that I felt the real magic of the place. I'm sort of hoping for the same effect with Carcassonne! We'll see...maybe I'll be singing a different tune when I get back.

Cheers!
Rob

StuDudley

I sure would not visit Albi on a Sunday when everything is closed (except museums & Church). That's a "general rule" for all large cities in France. Many shops close Monday morning also - opening in the afternoon around 2pm. Albi is a lovely town - but don't visit it on a Sunday or Monday morning - it will seem drab. I would use that day to take scenic trips into the Pyrenees.

I just returned from 4 weeks in France, so I did not see your post - until now. I'll send my Languedoc/Roussillon itinerary. However, much of the info in it was obtained from Pvoyageuse, who is a long time resident of the Perpignan area and is extremly knowledgable and forthcoming with her advice.

Stu Dudley

ira

Hi RR,

I agree with Stu.

Sunday is a good day for a ride in the country or to visit a site that you know will be open.

Pvoyageuse

Make sure Auberge du Cellier is not "complet" - it happens pretty often - and call them to make a reservation !
(33)468 29 09 78
www.aubergeducellier.com