wilkie

We are a 50ish couple (this is our 30th anniversary trip)that are quite active. arriving Shannon 11:30 AM Sun Sept 3,leaving Dublin noon Mon Sept 18, have rented car for first 12 days & booked first 2 nights in Doolin (Cullinan's)would like to do the Cliffs of Mohr & maybe short walking tour of The Burren. We enjoy history (some castles etc.) gardens, the water, meeting people (pubs)we don't mind driving as long as there are things to see along the way, good food (seafood)not too fancy but with some atmosphere, we are a little adventurous, we enjoy B&B's (meeting interesting people) We would like to stay in town so that we can walk to pubs etc. Any help would be appreciated.
Sun Sept 3 arrive Shannon 11:30 am from Vanvouver Canada
Sun, Mon. Sept 3 & 4 Doolin. Cliffs of Mohr & the Burren
Tues. Sept 5 to Galaway (stay the night)
Wed. Sept 6 drive through Connemara to Westport (stay 2 nights)
Thurs. Sept 7 day to see sights
Fri. Sept 8 to Ennis(stay night)
Sat. Sept 9 to Dingle (stay 2 nights)
Sun. Sept 10 do Dingle Peninsula
Mon. Sept 11 to kinsale (stay night)
Tues. Sept 12 to Cashel(stay night)
Wed. Sept 13 to Wexford (stay night)
Thurs.Sept 14 to Newgrange area (stay night)
Fri. Sept 15 to Dublin, drop car ( 3 nights at Trinity College)
Sat. Sun Sept 16 & 17 walking tours etc
Mon. Sept 18 flight leaves at noon
We like to get up fairly early to make sure we make the most of each day, but also like to stop not too late in the afternoon.
Any thoughts? Thank you.

pontoon

For sea-food, try Morans on the Weir in Clanrinbridge, outside Galway city. http://www.moransoystercottage.com/

In Roundstone (Connemara) try O'Dowds http://www.odowdsbar.com/

In Leenane (Connemara)try Rory's. http://www.portfinn.com/index.html

And in Westport, La Bella Vita, http://www.adlib.ie/detailcn.asp?ID=2039

All famous for good seafood.

teacher33

Dear Wilkie,

Your trip sounds wonderful. It looks as if you have researched things and thought your itinerary out.

IMHO, I would stay in Kilkenny rather than Wexford on Sept 13. Kilkenny is charming and has lots to see right in the town. Buttler Castle and garden, the Thosal, St. Canice's Cathedral and round tower.

On the way stop in New Ross and see the Dunbrody, a recreated ship of the famine times. You get a ticket as if you had been a passeneger in the 1850's and then a guide gives you a very informative talk about what the trip would be like for you on the way to America. And this was one of the better ships! Makes one decide not to complain about traveling a few hours in cattle class on the airlines.

On the way to Newgrange, stop in Glendalough. Ruins of 9th century monastery, round tower, nice walk. Park in the Visitor Center lot rather than the other one that is a pay lot.

In Dublin consider one of the hop on, hop off busses. I have done both companies and they are basically the same. The guides give a talk which is a great listen and it can be a relief to be off your feet for a few minutes. Catch the first of the day and do a complete circuit and then go back to the places you want to see, or if you know what you want to see, hop off as you please along the way and catch a following bus.

Have a grand trip and happy anniversary!

wilkie

Thank you Pontoon, I checked out the links you left & am looking forward to meals at as many as possible.
Thanks teacher 33 your idea of staying in Kilkenny makes a lot of sense, any ideas on B&Bs in that area.Also any suggested routes to get from place to place,we have done the hop on hop off buses in other cities & you are right they seem to be the best way to see the hightlights & then back to see places of interest.We looked at a walking tour in Dublin & would be interested in other walks that anyone might suggest. Is there any recommended routes through Connamara.Also where to stay around Newgrange. Thanks again, great advice!

CAPH52

I second the suggestion of O'Dowds in Roundstone. We had a wonderful lunch there in March.

CAPH52

AS for B&Bs, I highly recommend Adare House in Westport. Their web site is www.adarehouse.net/index.php We spent two nights there in late March and thorougly enjoyed it. Maragaret is wonderful, the breakfasts were good and the location is great. It's about half way between the town centre and the harbour area. We walked to town the first night, the harbor the second. It was also the least expensive of the three B&Bs we stayed in that trip!

Although it's not seafood, we had a very nice meal in the bar of the Wyatt Hotel in Westport. On the recommendation of Margaret!

wilkie

Thanks CAPH52, you must have read my mind, I have just recieved a response from Adare House, but unfortunately she is booked up for Sept 7 so we just send off a note to see if we could arrive a day earlier.Do you think itis too long to drive from Doolin to Westport in one day?

SLLovett

We just returned from our first trip to Ireland in June. We flew into Shannon, drove to Dingle for first 2 nights, then drove up west coast to Lisdoonvarna, then onto Ennis. We fell in love with Ireland, you're in for a wonderful treat! In Dingle, we stayed at The Milestone Dingle B&B operated by Barbara and Michael Carroll. Barbara went out of her way to make sure we were comfortable and gave many suggestions on how to make the most of our stay in the area. We wished we would have stayed more than 2 days in Dingle Peninsula. The Slea Head drive was amazingly beautiful with many sights along the way. Don't miss driving through Connor Pass to enter Dingle. It's an adventure. Plenty of pull off areas to view beaches, climb rocks and watch sheep. While in Dingle we ate at The Blue Zone Pizzeria (specialized in jazz music) and visited John Benny Moriarty's Pub to sample Guiness and listenedd to the area's best pub music.
It was about a 4 hour drive to Lisdoonvarna in The Burren from Dingle. We took the ferry at Tarbert for 15 Euro. It is well worth it to cut off a few hours from your trip.
The Burren and Cliffs of Mohr were both beautiful and extraordinary formations. We drove to Doolin to look for a place to eat. Not much in Lisdoonvarna to choose from. FYI: Most pubs stop serving food around 8:30 - 9:00 pm. Doolin was rather sparse in it's choices to eat also, but we did enjoy eating at McDermott's. It was family friendly with good food and friendly prices. Not touristy at all!!!
We started our Burren tour at Kilfenora at the Heritage center. They give you a map and their exhibit explains its history. We did not view the entire exhibit, but did visit the church ruins and cemetery connected to the center. We drove from there along the burren trail which made a loop off the main road which led to Galway. We saw the ring fort (watch the virtual reality film about how life must have been in the ring fort, stopped at the Poulnaborn Dohlmen down the road, decided against Alwee Cave(the kids didn't want to do it), stopped at Balyvaughan for lunch from a grocery store which had a deli(lots of choices and very inexpensive). Tables available outside to eat. Interesting and colorful shops to browse. We drove to Dunguire Castle, toured it then drove back to Lisdoonvarna. There are many places to pull off and enjoy the unusual landscapes.
You certainly will be in awe of The Cliffs of Mohr and the coast near where you catch the ferry to the Aran Islands.
Go north along the coast and stop to climb the rocks and enjoy the beatiful cliffs with the surf splashing against. There was so much marines life in the little pools left from the tide. Lots of wildflowers and a variety of shelled snails with interesting decorated shells. Hope you have enough memory on your camera card.
Spent our last night in Ennis at Edin Hill (sp?) farmhouse on outer edge of Ennis. She recommended Fanny O'deys pub about 8 miles from Ennis. Same atmosphere and prices as McDermot's. Good choice!!!!!!!
It was a short drive to Bunratty so we spent a day touring their Folk Park and the castle. Very interesting and worth the trip. Blarney Woolen Mills is located across the road from the castle.
Good Shopping!!!
Get a small car!!! Roads extremely narrow. Tour busses look scary coming at you. Have a wonderful time in Ireland and try not to see toO much at one time.
ENJOY enhoyed the serentiy that Ireland has to off. SLON!!

pontoon

This is my suggesed route for someone taking one day to drive from Galway to Westport. Leave Galway and head for Recess. Stop in Ballynahinh Castle for coffee and a walk around the grounds. on to Roundstone- perhaps lunch in O Dowds. Take the backroads to clifden that go through Ballyconneely, stop for a swim if you are that way inclined. On to Clifden, head north towards Leenane, taking in the Sky Road outside Clifden if time permits. On the way to Leenane stop at Kylemore Abbey; their restored walled garden is worth the trek. In Leenane stop for some refreshments in either of the two bars and take in the scencery. Leave on the Westport road the N59, but about 4 kms out of town take a left (signposted for Delphi) and take the 'Trail of Tears' road which takes you to Westport via Louisburgh and the foot of Croagh Patrick. Book ahead for dinner in Wesport as you should arrive about 6 or 7 pm.... no better way to spend a day.

CAPH52

Wilkie, we drove from Westport to Ennis our second last day. We didn't get all that early a start, probably 9:00 or later. First we drove over to Knock and spent at least an hour at the Shrine. Then we headed towards Ennis with several stops along the way including lunch in Kinvarra, a stop at the dolmen in the Burren and, finally, the Cliffs of Moher! We got in to Ennis around 6:00 I think. So, if we did all of that, I'd say you can definitely do Doolin to Westport! The question, of course, is how much you want to see along the way.

We stayed in Galway our fist two nights and then drove the coastal route through Connemara to Westport. With stops along the way, including lunch in Roundstone, Kylemore Abbey and Croagh Patrick, that took us an entire day.

If she can get you in at Adare House a day earlier, would you then go to Galway <b>after</b> Westport? If so, you could just do your drive through Connemara then.

Between the slow, narrow roads and the fact that there's so much to see, the less you can rush things, the more you'll enjoy your trip. But as long as it's just a matter of rearranging your itinerary, I think you'd be fine driving from Doolin to Westport. It doesn't look like you had anything particular planned on the way from Ennis to Galway or Westport back to Ennis. So you won't be missing anything by just switching things around a bit.

wilkie

Is

wilkie

Author: wilkie
Date: 07/12/2006, 09:54 pm
thanks SLLovett &amp; pontoon for the route info also CAPH52 it looks like there is room at Adare house if we arrive a day earlier, so you are right we will just change that bit around a little.I feel much better about our time on the west but am still alittle concerned about our time from Kinsale to dublin. It looks as if there are any number of routes to take &amp; i don't want to take the most direct route &amp; miss something that is just off the highway.I haven't been able to find any driving route throught that area. The maps that I have don't seem to distinguish the main roads from the not so main. Are the N &quot;national roads&quot; like highways, what about the National secondayB roads? Canyou suggest a place to stay thurs night so that we could maybe go to Newgrange Friday morning brfore we drop our car in Dublin Friday?

pontoon

The road from Cork to Dublin is a national primary route (N) and is for the most part motorway. The road narrows here and there and even bottle-necks into a few towns. Having said that to take another secondary route would be to make a real meal out of the journey- it's long enough as it is. Stopping off somewhere is really up to you. Kilkenny, cashel or out somewhere by Wexford, I suppose it depends on your interests. Having said that if I was getting to Newgrange the following morning I would try to get most of the trip done the day before. The AA have a guide time from Kinsale to Newgrange for 3hrs 50mins. In reality it is closer to 6 hours.

brewlew

We stayed at Ballynahinch Castle in Connemarra (but not in Westport) and it was wonderful. A true Irish &quot;great house&quot; with on-site salmon fishing. Near the Cliffs of Moher (outside of Liscannor) is Harbour Sunset Farmhouse B&amp;B. I cannot recommend this place highly enough because of the woman who owns it, who is the kindest, most enthusiastic person in the universe. She had one of her daughters come and play Irish music for us one night. It is a working farm, so you'll get that experience, too. Huge breakfast. Clean as a whistle and full of things she has crocheted. Not in town, but no matter. Nicest meal in Ennis was at the Poet's Corner pub in the Old Ground Hotel. That is a really nice place to stay, but if you want to spend less, stay where we stayed: Rose Cottage. Owner is very helpful and breakfast is bountiful. Just a short walk to the town center. Don't miss a concert at the Glor Irish Music Centre in Ennis, www.glor,ie . Great way to learn about - and hear - traditional Irish music. Best shopping is at the craft center in Kilkenny across the street from the castle. Good cafe there, too. Pub food in Ireland is great. Have fun!

wojazz3

Hi Wilke:

If I may butt in here. You have a lot of packing and unpacking to do (four single night stays in a row) and you are seeing a lot in a short time. That said, it's doable and you'll probably want to come back and slow down a bit. A few points:

I agree that Kilkenny is a nice town to visit and would probably pick it over Wexford. The town is very historic and there is an excellent walking tour that is available online. I'll see if I can track that down.

Pontoon's route to Westport is very nice, but I'm a much slower traveler and it would probably take me two days instead of one. Keep in mind, it's considered an important courtesy to arrive at B&amp;Bs between 4-6. You are staying is someone’s house and you may find them gone after that time. The suggested route could certainly be done but perhaps some of the side trips might be a bit much. Swimming would be quite cold too. As for Kylemore Abbey, I find the tour of the Abbey itself to not be worth the time. Only four rooms can be seen. The little chapel down the walkway is quite nice though. The drive over Doo Lough Pass on the road to Louisburgh is one of my favorites.

From Wexford (or Kilkenny) if you go through Glendalough, it is unlikely that you will make it to Newgrange in time for a tour especially if it is a weekend day. Tours tend to sell out by early afternoon. You would only get to see the visitor center. If you drove straight there from Kilkenny, you would probably make it. From Wexford, perhaps not. Consider Newgrange the next morning.

If you can, try staying at The Shores B&amp;B on the Dingle Peninsula. Still my favorite B&amp;B. The attention to detail there is amazing. It's not like any other place I've stayed. Annette will treat you extremely well. Tell her Bill and Felicity say hi. We've stayed a number of times. They are on the opposite side of the pass, but that never means anything to me. Well worth the drive into Dingle.

Hope this helps.

Bill

GreenDragon

You are doing some of the things I just did on my trip (I got back Sunday). I'm still writing my report, but you can read it's progress here:

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34833963

I will HIGHLY recommend the Alcantra B&amp;B in Kilkenny. The hostess, Bridget Holohan, is fantastic. The rooms are nice and comfortable. She is an empty nester who had 6 children, and she is still a mom who takes care of her guests. Her breakfasts are delicious, with homemade jams. It's a couple of blocks from the castle...
http://homepage.eircom.net/~alcantra/

wilkie

Thanks again for all the great advise,wojazz3 I checked out The Shores &amp; it really does look good, I was wondering if there was enough to do at night in that area? We like to have a pint with dinner &amp; I am not that comfortable driving at night in unfamiliar places, so staying at a B&amp;B that is within walking distance is a consideration.We have tentatively booked 2 nights at The Milestone Dingle B&amp;B (it seems to get very good reviews)
Greendragon we have been reading your trip report with great interest. We really appreciated all of the information we have recieved so far... the planning is almost as much fun as the trip.The route information has been very helpful.

CAPH52

I don't know whether I should admit this, wilkie, but I sometimes think I <i>almost</i> enjoy the planning more than the actual trip!

wojazz3

There is a nice pub in Castlegregory that has music on Wednesday and Saturday. This is an old style pub and the music is a lot of fun. Mix of trad and ballads with constant requests to the audience to sing with the band. It's certainly MUCH quieter than Dingle. I appreciate the quiet.

I've made the drive over the pass at night. They's done a lot of work to the road and there is only one narrow spot. You can see cars coming from quite a distance in the narrow section so you know to stop and let them through. I find it easier at night because you can see the head lights. That's me though. The Shores is worth the drive IMHO.

Bill

wilkie

This is our revised plan
Sun Sept 3 arrive Shannon 11:30 am from Vanvouver Canada
Sun, Mon. Sept 3 &amp; 4 (2 nights Doolin @ Cullians) Cliffs of Mohr &amp; the Burren
Tues.&amp;Wed. Sept 5 &amp;6 to Westport(stay 2 nights @ Adare House)
Thurs.&amp; Fri. Sept 7 &amp; 8 drive through Connemara to Enis (stay 2 nights)
Sat. Sept 9 to Dingle (stay 2 nights @ Milestone House)
Sun. Sept 10 do Dingle Peninsula
Mon. Sept 11 to kinsale (stay night)
Tues. Sept 12 to Cashel(stay night)
Wed. Sept 13 to Kilkenny(stay 1 night @ Alcantra B&amp;B)
Thurs.Sept 14 to Newgrange area (stay night)
Fri. Sept 15 to Dublin, drop car ( 3 nights at Trinity College)
Sat. Sun Sept 16 &amp; 17 walking tours etc
Mon. Sept 18 flight leaves at noon
Any thoughts anyone???? Is Ennis worth a 2 night stay or the other thought was Galaway 1 night &amp; Ennis 1 night or The Shores in Dingle Penninsula?? Any suggestions for Somewwhere near Nwegrange?? Any walking tours etc. inany of these places?? Sights not to be missed ???? Thanks for all your help so far.