ttt

What a charming and enjoyable read! more please

Looking forward to the description of Nuit Blanche, which is something I would love to experience.

lstOct.
NUIT BLANCHE:
I have my breakfast at the hotel and find good value for 10 euros.
Time to try out the local bus service and I hop on one going down Ave.de Wagram then into Courcelles past Parc Monceau (which I have strolled through previously). Changing to another route I really have a cheap sightseeing tour.

OUR SPECIAL DINNER;
Around 6.30pm I take a cab to the restaurant Pharamond, rue de la Grande Truanderie. Time to stroll around the small streets and window shop. It starts to drizzle and I take a seat under cover and order a.....kir! JazzyRed joins me and we wait for g33kgrl. Soon we are all seated inside and order the wine. The Sancerre JazzyRed picks is gorgeous. g33kgrl and I split a bottle of red.
(Hope she remembers the name!) Anyway it was good. Our food was divine and the night melted away with all the chatter.
Time to find out whats going on around Paris tonight so we decide on a cab to Pont Neuf so that we can take a Seine cruise. Unfortunately the taxi disappeared just as as we discovered everything in darkness! No worries - we walk to the corner and JazzyRed being a lovely tall lady tries to assist the two short ones in flagging down everything coming our way! Just when we thought the situation was hopeless we snag one and are off to the Eiffel Tower.
Down the stairs on the quai, Batobus are running a 5euro special. The first boat departs and we find out that the queue will take up the entire next Batobus and we will have to get the one after. Just too long to wait as JazzyRed has an 8am train to catch and we are all feeling tired by now.
It's midnight and we sit down for a moment and watch the Eiffel burst into stars!
Back to the taxi rank and as we go home we see the Petit Palace ( or maybe even Grand Palace) lit up in beautiful red and blue lights.
It's goodbye to my new Fodorite friends - we had a lovely time together.

2nd Oct.
PROMENADE PLANTEE - BERCY VILLAGE ETC.
Although it was a late night I didn't feel too bad and next morning headed out for the Promenade Plantee. This pedestrian parkway is constructed along the former right-of-way train tracks connecting Bastille to the eastern suburbs of Paris.
I start at Bastille and walk down rue de Lyon which becomes Ave.Daumesnil and this is where I go up the steps and find myself in another world of shrubs, flowers and trees. Beneath are the archways supporting the viaduct, now filled with craft shops to form the Viaduc des Arts.
Soon joggers are passing me left and right. They are serious too and most have sculptured bodies and legs so wide apart you could let the metro through.
The promenade meets the Jardin de Reuilly. Flowing lawns interjected with beds of flowers. The cutest little Robinson Crusoe beach hut is displayed amongst palm trees and made to look like a scene from a shipwreck.
Going down onto the road once more I am desperate for a loo. All that coffee you see! Up the road I see a large fountain in the distance.
I start off and as luck would have it one of those space-capsule toilets appears on the sidewalk!
I get to the fountain and sit at a table looking at the ten lions spouting water from their mouths. It's a lovely peaceful village scene amongst the trees and very little traffic.

RUE CHARRON:
Time for lunch and I go off by metro to find one of the Dave-in-Paris reccommendations. I get off at metro Ledru Rollin and soon spot Bistro du Peintre on the corner of rue de Charonne.
At the time I did not know this darling little place features in a book I bought at one of the museums and is called "Au vrai ZINC parisien" and Peintre does have a lovely old zinc bar counter.
I sat on the terrace section enclosed by a thick plastic see-through awning.
I ordered the aubergine bake followed by the best tarte tatin I've eaten on my whole trip - including, yes you may not believe it, Lauderee!
Sitting finishing my espresso I hear a loud bang and see two cars skidding towards me!! Yikes, they manage to stop just before the two scooter-bikes on the sidewalk. Of course an argument breaks out, the police and "Pompiers" arrive and I don't know what possessed me but I photographed the cars before they were moved out the way and afterwards. Did about 5 shots.
Later walking up rue de Charonne to find Paris-Hanoi for next time I see the dear old lady (husband gone in ambulance) sitting in her banged-up car waiting for the tow-truck I guess. I show her my photos and she nearly cries with joy. She scribbles her address on a piece of paper and I promise to send her the copies. And I did. The next day.

Next metro was to Bercy Village, a paved courtyard lined with former wine warehouses. Lots of boutiques dedicated to art de vivre, leisure facilities, bars and restaurants.
It's very "new" and a bit souless.
There is a wine tasting and they are very generous with the samples!

Another lot later....

A spelling error; Rue de Charonne. Apologies.
The wonderful fountain of lions is at Place Felix Eboue and I sat at Au V'a et Viert for my coffee break.

SUNDAY AFTERNOON DANCING:
I go and see if there is anyone dancing the tango on Quai Saint Bernard. No luck, just families and people walking their dawgs.
I continue on looking at the old books and prints and arrive at Square R Viviani which just happens to have the oldest tree in Paris. It's filled with concrete in places and is next to the Saint-Julien-de-Pauvre church dating from between 1165 and 1220 making it one of the oldest along with St.Germain-des-Pres.

DINING WITH THE FISHES:
Heading back for a spruce-up I then occupy one of those wonderful chairs on the Champs Elysees and have a Kir Royale. Then it's off to rue de Berri and the Chinese restaurant Dragons Elysees.
As you step through the door you have fish under your feet swimming in what seems to be a gigantic olympic fish pond! I am seated next to the open area of the pond and watch the huge carp bully the poor little turtles.
I started with Crevettes phenix en beignets and moved onto Boef a l'imperial accompanied by riz nature.
The bill with wine, 47.90 euros.
Not a bad meal but then I eat a lot of Chinese in Singapore and believe it or not, one of the best Chinese meals I've ever had was in Swakopmund, Namibia.

Next.....trying to find the hidden cache at Sacre Coeur!

Tod....a terrifiic read!!
I'm glad that you have several days left to report!
Many thanks!

Thank you Scarlett and Bailey for those encouraging words.

Mon.3rd Oct.
CACHE AT SACRE COEUR:
Having spent many hours researching anything and everything on Paris I found this website; BONNE VINE (PARIS) Traditional Cache. Size: Micro by Jessex.
To find the cache you will have to have a GPS. Co-ordinates are:
N 48 53.261 E oo2.615
UTM: 31U E 451880 N 5415177

The first number 48 has a "degree" sign but I can't type that on my keyboard.
THE CLUES:
This log-only micro cache is located in a small park very close to the Bascillique du Sacre-Coeur in Monmartre,Paris. The terrain could be difficult for some if walking up the butte. There are other ways up the hill - the funiculair being the most popular. PLEASE DONOT leave any items in the cache! It will only jam the small container.

Well I went to see if I could maybe, just maybe, sus out the area or even better, find someone who had a GPS.
I exited the metro at Abbesses and decided to post my friends card which was showing signs of wear & tear.
The post office is directly across the road from Abbesses metro.
In the sort of entrance/lobby there is a device which was a first-time for me. You lay the letter address side down, the machine scans it and spits out the postage stamps when you put the money in. (Assisted to do all this rigmaroll by a man from New Zealand).
We walked along together and I was telling him I was on a hunt to find a hidden "stash". The look on his face told me I didn't get that right. "I mean cache, sorry" He looked so relieved!!
I looked here and there, even asking a few friendly faces if the carried a GPS - no luck. Time to give up and go for a late breakfast. This I had at Au Cadet de Gascogne in Place du Tetre.

On again now with my notes from Degas for my Monmarte stroll. All quiet at the vineyard which is about to celebrate the annual wine festival this weekend.
Ended with a drink at Le Lux Bar, 12 rue Lepic.

JARDIN DU LUXEMBOURG AND THE CARROUSEL:

One of my very favourite things about Paris is the little childrens carrousels. I had been reading Adam Gopniks book "From Paris to the Moon" sometime back and thought it may be fun to see the one in Luxembourg gardens on which his son spent hours and hours.
First the Fontaine de Medicis which was cordonned off with that red & white tape. Past the Palais and diagonally across, you go through the trees, past the "guardhouse" and come to a cafe, marionettes building and the carrousel. Of course it was all closed up because it was a weekday!
The flowers were still very beautiful as I made my way back to have lunch at
a restaurant oposite the Medici gates.
I had several lovely bus rides in the afternoon and highly reccommend you hop on and don't care too much where you end up - theres always a bus back!

LADUREE CHAMPS ELYSEES:
I've walked past here so many times in the last few days I have to see the magnificent interior.
I walk through the door at 7pm and am assured of a window table at 7.30 when they officially start serving dinner. I am invited to sit at the bar area and enjoy an aperitif......which means a Kir Royale!
My table is wonderful as I can people watch while eating some of the nicest food in Paris.
I start with Foie gras - but never had it like this. I have 2 whole(not all mooshed up) slices of lighly sauteed duck liver which simply melted in my mouth! My wine is Chateauneuf du Pape, 2003 - just a glass.
I started ordering lamb cutlets and then changed to something else but before my main course arrived the little waitress came over to say they had done the lamb by mistake. No problem, bring whatever. With this she presents me with a glass of Nuits St.Georges (9 euros a glass) for free as she had made the error with the kitchen. How seet and totally not necessary but honey I'd love it!
I have to have the tarte tatin for desert but its a real disappointment and the bill comes to 84.50 euros but I'm happy.

4th Oct.
MOVING HOTELS - DIVING INTO AUTEUIL;
I check out of the Belmont which has treated me well and into the Duquesne Eiffel (3 star), Ave Duquesne. Metro-Ecole Militaire.
I leave my case downstairs with my documents in their safe and head out to walk around Auteuil. I adore Art Nouveau and have been photgraphing every old Hector Guimard metro entrance since arriving. (I hope to make a montage of these later on). The area has some fascinatiing buildings especially the "eccentric house" Castel Beranger, 14 rue La Fontaine, with its pastel green wrought-iron balconies.
Before creating the most unusual Metro entrances in the world ( to me they look like something from Little Shop Of Horrors!), Guimard designed this house with his unbridled imagination and a combination of advanced technology.
I get back to Tour Eiffel and walk back to the hotel.
I have dinner downstairs at Palace Thai. Small but tastefully decorated in the appropriate style.
Starters; Crevettes sautees aux legume. then Porc sauce aigre-douce (sweet 'n sour pork), sorbet for desert with a coffee and bill came to 42euros.
I LOVE my new room!! Lady Eiffel twinkles as I lie in bed and I watch for ages. Even when I go to the bathroom she's even more obvious!

Next day it's another Fodorite GTG!
This time with ggnga & TravGina.

Tod, you said:
"...I had ideas of staying in this area at the Hotel Sophie, rue Sophie Germaine...I went to check out what I missed out on and was glad I changed my mind. ..."

I think it might be a case of 'getting what you pay for", in that the Duquesne Eiffel and the Belmont have much nicer decor, bigger lobbies, etc. However:
- the Duquesne Eiffel would cost us 162€ w/breakfast, and the Belmont would cost us 183€ w/breakfast. Sophie Germain costs us no more than 100€ including breakfast.

We've been staying here and have enjoyed this as a 'decent sleep in a clean room at a good price with a quite friendly staff'. I'm kind of smiling as I read your remarks, because I'll grant you, there is no elegance or spaciousness there! Was there anything specific that led you to your opinion? Just asking out of curiosity more than anything. (and I've probably answered the question already!)

Lovely report, Tod.

TRAVELNUT - Thanks for asking.
I do not speak French beyond 'Bonjour, Merci, Pardon, Au revoir' so maybe the guy standing against the entrance smoking was expecting more......maybe he was the handyman just having a fag break - all I know is he hardly moved himself for me to pass through and see the lobby. Made no offer to show me a room after I asked to see "your hotel".
I just thought "glad I,m not here,.
But you are right. You get what you pay for.
By the way, Belmont cost me 139euros, Duquesne 153, & Clement 117 - all without breakfast which was 10euros.

Hi Ira - Thanks for the kind word. Did you manage to have dinner at Brasserie Balzar??

That kind of 'reception' would put me off, too... the only two men I've seen working the desk are the night shift guys; haven't noticed what time they leave in the morning. Are you sure he was working the desk? I guess you would be, sounds like he came inside. I do know there is only one person at reception at any given time, except when they're switching over, so I don't see how they would be free to escort you upstairs. They all speak basic English quite well, so even more strange.

At any rate, you enjoyed your hotel choices and that's what counts. Thanks for being honest. (and hurry up and post some more!)

tod,

Enjoying your report immensly - looking foward to more. A few questions: How long does it take to walk the Promenade Plantee end to end? Was that YOU on the wrong airline? Is Chateauneuf du Pape widely available by the glass?

NO,no,no! Not me on the wrong airline Bardo1- thank goodness.
Chateauneuf du Pape is widely available by the glass - but now, I don't know too much about French wine and maybe we were drinking some other kind of "chateauneuf"??? When my friends arrived and we stayed at the Hotel Clement we used to go across the road to Coolin Irish Pub or Nicolas and have a glass ( or two!). We did buy a bottle of Chateau DuTertre 2002 Margaux (mes en bouteilles au chateau) for 21euros at a supermarket. It wasn't too bad either!
TRAVELNUT - How do you find time to check this board when staying in wonderful Paree?! Are you working?
I am VERY interested to hear about staying in the 14e (it is isn't it?)
and want to do that next visit.

5th Oct.
MARAIS WALK - DEUX MAGOTS GTG:

I set off with Degas instructions but start at metro Sully-Morland as across the road in Square Henri-Galli lie a round mound of stones. Not any old stones but ones unearthed between 211 & 236 Rue Saint-Antoine when they were building the first metro line.
The stones are the foundations of a Bastille tower and reassembled here for all to see.

Walzing down Quai des Celestins I get to Hotel des Sens. It has an interesting history but all I want to see is that cannonball!
Looking up at the eastern facade you can see it sticking out of the stonework with the date it was blasted there " 28 Juillet 1830".

Up through the very quaint rue des Barres and into Rue Francois Miron.
I step inside number 44 a sparse gallery of sorts and am greeted warmly by the lady in charge. She is delighted when I ask to see the 13C vaulted cellar below.

Carefully descending the ancient steps I enter the past. Noises of the street above are gone. The smell of bygone centuries fills the air.
In the dim light I see a well (quite deep), two other staircases leading nowhere. The floor is sand with several footprints already.
Fallen stonework and rotting beams have been shored up. It's so silent that thoughts of seeing a ghostly form appearing from behind a pillar enter my brain - just kidding!

Back on the street it's 2005 once more and I stroll rue des Rossiers before ending up at L'Oree Du Marais, 29 rue Francs Bourgeois, for lunch.
Chef's special of the day - Boeuf Bourginon. What a helping! - with wine & a coffee 19.50euros.

The rest of the afternoon is spent browsing the Musee Carnavalet which is just down the street.

DEUX MAGOTS GTG!
Just as Travgina decribed in her post I knew it must be her right away!
When ggnga arrived shorthly thereafter we sat on the terrace outside (can you believe Paris was SO hot in October?).
We all got acquainted over drinks and ggnga had a wonderful place in mind for dinner.
We were so lucky to be seated without reservations at Restaurant L'Insulaire, 16 rue Gregoire de Tours.
We squeezed into a table almost in the doorway and had a lovely meal for I think 25euros each with wine. Correct me if I'm wrong ladies!
The dinner chatter was filled with tales of ggnga's Budapest rendouvous with Dr. Dentist and she really made us laugh.
By the time we left the place was packed. Hugs and goodbyes said we went our merry ways. What lovely Fodorites!

6th - 10thOct.
MY FRIENDS ARRIVE - WINE FESTIVAL MONTMARTRE:

The long awaited wine festival starts.
Two of us go up to Montmarte on Saturday and spend two happy hours amongst the stalls of cheeses, sausages, breads & wine! The other two go to EuroDisney for the day.
Afterwards I take my friend to Jardin de Luxembourg and this time the children are riding madly on the carrousel snagging the rings with their sticks!

I get my friends up the Eiffel Tower (after days of it being in thick mist), a Seine cruise and all the other main touristy places.
Unfortunately when passing through metro Concorde my friends daughter had her purse lifted from her back-pack.
We were all toghether and never saw I thing! Luckily cellphones at the ready we cancelled the cards immedaitely.
WARNING: Don't put your money in a backpack! You tell people this but they think they know better.

11th Oct. They leave for Rome and I go and find the REAL Tarte Tatin in Louviers!

Splendid stream-of-consciousness report and one that even includes prices and other earthy bits.

My son-in-law last week gave me a book he found in a secondhand bookstore, "The Face of Paris," written in the early 1930 and updated in the early 1950s. Written by an Englishman, it takes you street by street through about 12 walks about central Paris. So much history! So many layers of buildings and streets that disappeared long ago. I have followed the book's ramblings on a current map of Paris, and it is a fascinating journey. I cannot help but be impressed with tod's writing skill and spirit of adventure off the beaten track.

11th Oct.
FINDING THE REAL TARTE TATIN:

Those who may have read Susan Loomis' books "On Rue Tatin" and "Tarte Tatin", will be familiar with the little country town Louviers. Her website gives directions how to get there. On the morning we all split up I had already missed the 8.15 train so took myself off to exploring a bit of my new area. We had moved on Sunday to Hotel Clement, 6 rue Clement. Metro;Mabillon.
From my bedroom window I could see the towers and roof St.Sulpice. Across from the hotel (the street is a narrow one-way) is the large building housing shops and clothing boutiques.
Under the archways are restaurants and bars so if you want a quiet hotel room don't stay here! It's noise level rises as the sun goes down and for about three hours it quietens down until the garbage/delivery trucks arrive in the early morning. Maybe a back room would be better but I love noise!

After visiting St.Sulpice I went and had a coffee at Le Cafe de Le Mairie opposite the fountain before going to see Ira's Hotel Bonaparte. Here the staff were kind enough to show me a large room - no. 7, 2nd floor, with a bed that had a wooden head & footboard. That unfortuantely would not do for my tall husband but I'm sure other rooms have beds without headboards etc.
I could not get over the lift! It had I would think, been fashioned to fit the space it occupied - Ira you must know why it's not square? But, it works as you well know!!

LOUVIERS:
Then off to Gare St.Lazare for the train leaving at 1.13pm. It takes quite a long time to get a ticket and several panic stricken people ask to jump the queue or else they'll miss their trains. I still have time to wonder around the flea-market in front of the station and buy 6 + 1 free, finger puppets for 5 euros. Spidy, Donald, a witch, a donkey's head, all so tiny and perfectly knitted.

I am delighted when I see it's a double-decker train and immediately take a seat upstairs. This is so exciting! I don't take commuter train rides in my part of the world as its too dangerous so you can imagine my joy at this simple excursion.
One and half hours later the train pulls into Val de Reuil and there is the red bus waiting to take us to Louviers.
It's a good 35 minute ride and I hop off as soon as I see the church. What a magnificent building with it's lacey stonework. The doors are shut so I don't get to go in but instead walk down the road to a little restaurant called Le Jardin de Bigard, 41 rue de Quai. My fresh tomatoe starter followed by a stew of sorts and half a pichet of wine comes to...12,30euros.

I stroll up the road to the florist mentioned so often in her books. Standing on the corner I admire the centuries old house her husband has renovated for Susan's cooking school. It's truly amazing they both managed this huge undertaking because not far from the house is another building being fixed up. The whole place looked so delapidated and shot to pieces it could have collapsed in heap at any moment!
A walk around the town to let the lunch go down and I'm at the bus stop waiting to go back. It's about 4pm but by the time the bus driver has driven us around the world & I've had to catch another bus from who knows where, I arrive at the station for the 6pm train.
That evening I have dinner around the corner from the hotel at Aux Charpentiers, 10 rue Mabillon. (Booked it on my earlier walk around).
Excellent meal and a lovely couple at the next table chat while we eat.

12th Oct.
D'ORSAY AND MRS WHISTLER:

At last! I'm going to the D'Orsay Museum after all these years.
I walk down Rue de Seine to perform something Adam Gopnik describes in his book 'From Paris to the Moon'. On page 8 he writes "My favourite
architectural detail in Paris is the little entrance up the rue de Seine, a tiny archway........." and so on. Well I walked through a small archway
and continued up Quai Malaqais then Quai Voltair where I find an art shop, Sennelier, which has a "Le Dessineur". (It's a kind of tracing device) I buy two and go on to the D'Orsay where the line is 20 minutes
long.
I love the work of the Monets etc. but somehow I am drawn to Whistler's Mother because of that dratted Mr. Bean movie! I end up buying a Monet T/shirt for my sons fiancee and a Monet scarf for my mum.

I make for Rue Montorgueil and stroll down thinking about being 'Almost French'. After lunch at Au Pied Cochon, 6 rue Coquilliere, where I have the Cochon Express & a glass of Gewurtztraminer (choosen for me by the waiter) followed by espresso and 28.35euros, I visit St.Eustache church and have a wonder around before going back to the hotel.
Later that evening I have a reservation for restuarant Bofinger.
Sitting having a Kir at a cafe/bar around the colonne de Juillet I watch the moon pass from one side of the green hollow bronze colomn to the other. It's a beautiful night and I still can't believe this Paris weather!

BOFINGER:
Starters; Mixed herb salad followed by Veau Generique and cafe gourmand. With champagne & wine bill totted up to 51.30euros.


13th Oct.
THE SMOKED PAPRIKA HUNT: BEST LOO'S IN TOWN: MY RESTAURANT MISTAKE WHICH IS NOW A RECCOMMENDATION:
Ever since my friends left I have been trying to track down smoked paprika and decide it's time to head for the only place in town that MUST have it - FAUCHON, 26 Pl.Madeleine!
After visiting the church I call on Fauchon and am shocked not to get the paprika! OK, next Hediard. No paprika. I call in at Maison de la Truffe just to drool over the truffles.
Only a small basket of white ones is all they have - I'm talking fresh now - the black ones are about to be unearthed soon. I almost buy a tiny little nugget for 75euros but decide not to.
After visiting the Madeleine Church I visit the best public toilets(so they say)in Paris. If you exit the Metro stop Madeleine they are just across the road surrounded by a fancy railing.
You go down some steps - the entrance is grubby but the old fashioned doors with their ornate glass are special. Everything is clean and it's been a long time since the shoe-shine chair saw it's last customer!

THE RESTAURANT THAT WASN'T:
Deciding to try out another of Dave-in-Paris's suggestions I take the metro to
Faideherbe-Chaligny and walk up Rue de Montreuil looking for La Ravigote, number 41. I find Le Bar des Artisans at number 40 and walk across the road into a lovely little restaurant. I looked at the name but L'Aiguiere looked like La Ravigote somehow (its was hot OK).
I'm shown to a table with starched white linen, beautiful cutlery and flowers and all the time I'm settling in I'm thinking "Gee Dave, not bad for a restaurant described as quirky" but the decor IS charming I'll grant you that!
I peruse the beatiful menu and order a glass of champagne. With my aperitif comes the most gorgeous plate of four little canapes! I order the Briquettes de Chevre, to be followed by Dieppoise de Turbo in aux, and for desert, Pain perdu de figue rotie. Somehow the prices seem a bit steep but what the heck - this is where Dave-in-Paris comes!
Soon a teeny weeny little pot of ice cold tomatoe soup arrives ( just to wet my appetite) Yum!
Next the most beautiful sight is set down before me! I hardly want to touch the three small triangles of pastry arranged in a spectacular fashion on the plate. The goats cheese oozes out as I cut into the crust and it's lovely.
My turbo is marooned on an island of some mashed ? but its divine!
The fig arrives. Perfectly baked and perched on top of a slice of sweet brioche or cake with lavender icecream melting slowly on the side.
Oh my goodness, I can hardly believe the quality of this Dave-in-Paris reccommendation! I start wondering about the "parts" and what they were Dave?
Most people have left except a group of businessmen in suits at the next table. They are obviously curious about my accent and the guy next to me swings round and starts to chat. He wants me to try a glass of their wine which has fume' in the name. I do, just to please. He wants to know how I found this place. On the internet I tell him. We all agree it's the best restaurant in Paris!

THE LUNCH BILL COMETH:
93.00 euros exactly. I don't even dare ask for change from a 100!

Dave, I promise I WILL find the right place next time!

My last day in Paris.......

Srry about the turbo - I mean't TURBOT but pushed the wrong key and off this went before I could edit properly.
Imagine a turbo for lunch - I think that what a mechanic might have!LOL

Tod,
Can't wait to check out 14 rue la Fontaine....from your discription it reminds me of the architect Antoni Gaudi. My favorite Gaudi is Casa Batllo....in Barcelona.
Have you been to Barcelona? If not, you may want to add that to your list!!

Thanks for taking the time to post this great report!
ps...Next time try a sweeter wine with the foie gras.....if you have an opportunity an Y'quem!!

Bailey - I agree, a sweeter wine definitely. Ever eaten pate de foie gras (forgive sp.if not correct) with slithers of sweet green fig preserve?
The sweetness just does something!
No, unfortunately never been to Barcelona but I have lots of travelling to do so it is on my list for sure. Thanks.

TRAVELNUT - How do you find time to check this board when staying in wonderful Paree?! Are you working?
I'm not in Paris now - went in September, having terrible time getting a trip report together (no time at the moment - except for Fodors, of course!).

I am VERY interested to hear about staying in the 14e (it is isn't it?)and want to do that next visit.
We don't really like crowded areas and have learned that we like staying in the 'double digits'. We've stayed by metro Villiers in the 17th twice, and by Convention (15th) once, and decided to try the 14th. The area around Denfert Rochereau is nice - there's nothing terribly special there in the way of sightseeing, it's just a neighborhood. It's fairly quiet at night (you can hear a bit of traffic but nobody's partying all night) but it feels ok to walk around after dinner. You've got the basic necessities by having a market street, a Monoprix, several corner cafes, a few decent restaurants, shops, post office, ATMs, etc. We've used bus #38 a few times (it seems to always be crowded), the metro and the RER. You do have to use transportation more than most people like to do - we don't pop in/out of a hotel during the day much, so that doesn't matter to us. There are not any really nice hotels around there, though (if comparing to Duquesne/Belmont). Hotel du Midi might be nice - haven't seen a room. There seem to be mixed comments about Nouvel Orleans - I think the negatives are probably from people who are experiencing small European rooms for the first time. There are a lot of 1* and 2* hotels in this part.

If you want to look up by metro Vavin (14th bordering the 6th), there are quite a few nice-looking hotels there and at Raspail.

We really liked the Villiers area, too - had stayed at Hotel Villiers Etoile when it was a 'Comfort' hotel - it was bought by Pavillon and the rates shot up. Couldn't find something in same price-range with a minibar, so we branched out. I'd stay in that area again, though, maybe at Jardin de Villiers or Monceau Etoile, if I got a lower rate. There are 2 Monoprix on rue de Levis, which is a market street too. You can easily walk to Parc Monceau; again, quite a few cafes and restaurants.

I'm copy/pasting your report so I can read it all at once... just need that last part!

Hi tod,

Thanks for your report.

You might find mine interesting:
http://fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34676645

>I could not get over the lift! It had I would think, been fashioned to fit the space it occupied - Ira you must know why it's not square? But, it works as you well know!!<

Once upon a time, the elevator at the Bonaparte was a brass cage - see "Charade".

When the building was brought up to code, the space for the elevator could not accomodate the new models of the same size, so a smaller elevator was installed.

You can see that the sides of the elevator shaft don't meet the edges of the stairway.

We didn't get to Balzar this visit.

Hi Travelnut - Thanks for all the info it was much more than I expected! I am saving it all for future reference.
I am finishing off tomorrow but it's not much.


Ira - thanks to you for your answer about the lift!

USNR - Thanks for the nice comments.
I tried to cut down wherever possible but one gets to do so much in 2 weeks so I haven't even got to a lot of stuff.

Wonderful report It made my café au lait taste better.

Many thanks Cigalechanta!
I will be posting the final bit to this very long trip report tonight - it's 8.20am and were off to the countryside for the day!

14th Oct.
AU REVOIR PARIS: HELLO MOSCOW!

Today is the last chance I have to get gifts so I'm out the door early. But just before you get the round-around I must admit to one last gastronomic fling!
I'd walked around Square Rene-Le-Gall, 45 Rue Corvisart (metro same) after such an indulgent lunch. Basically I wanted to find the Bievre Poplar trees.
(A picture of them on page 113 of "Unexplored Paris"). I looked here and there but no such line of big beautiful trees appeared. It does say that old poplar trees have been replaced with hornbeams but then surely why put an old picture in a fairly new book? Now I am wondering if I ever got to the right part of the "island"?

BRASERRIE BALZAR AND AN INVITATION TO MOSCOW:
I have a reservation and bus it down Blvd St.Germain where I hop off a bit too far down and have to walk back along rue des Escoles until I find Balzar.
It's 8pm and I am given a very nice table near the entrance - it is quite warm and the air coming in helps. Later I also get to see the queue forming outside!
My lovely dinner consisted of Foie Gras Maison, Poulet Roti with grantinee Dauphinois, washed down with some Sancerre Rose'.
Next to me are 4 Russian ladies, one of whom is speaking French to the waiter and questioning every dish she thinks they will order. The waiter suggests they have a bottle of Gerwurztramminer(?) and want to clink glasses with me and say that Russian thing which sounds like Nasdarovia(?)!
The daughter orders fillet steak for her mother who on presentation says ephatically " WE DON'T LIKE!" Back it goes to be cooked some more.
Soon dear daughter Svetlana is giving me a peice of paper with her Moscou phone number and begging me to please phone them as soon as I get there and the family will show me around. Okay............
I finish my coffee and am out of there like Flint - the queue grows longer and I don't want to be selfish now do I?

It's the 14th OCT. and I have to take the metro back to Sacre Coeur because try as I may the two evening wraps we bought there are no where else to be found in Paris. I get two more and hare down to Palais Royale where I stroll(fastish) through the garden and along the shops until I find the little musical-box shop that was mentioned by a previous post. Thanks so much whoever you are as I did buy two boxes!
I get back to the hotel by 2pm and the taxi arrives.
On the way to Gare de Nord ( I know there's an RER from St.Michel but the taxi will not take you such a short distance & I feel better going to the Gare), the taxi driver tries to frighten me ( or enlighten me - whichever) with the statement "Well, do you know that the RER is the most dangerous way to the airport?" Huh? Why?
"Because of muggings!"
I just nod and think "You don't know buster but I'm from a pretty crime-ridden background myself and no-one better mess with me!"

And so, I leave this wonderful place called Paris, with cafe's, brasseries, parks, lemons on trays, dappled light on bourgeois boulevards, department stores with skylights, and windows like doors wherever you look........
(From Paris to the Moon)

Thank You.

Tod-

I'm curious to know if you have done geocaching in other places in Europe. Some that I've viewed on line look like they will send you on unforgettable adventures. I had my first experience with it in Texas this summer.

For those thinking of taking the RER back to CDG, Luxembourg, Port-Royal and Denfert-Rochereau--all on the Left Bank--are much more manageable than the Gare du Nord station.

Great report tod! Makes we want to go back right NOW!!!!

Thanks for your great report, tod.

Let us know how Moscow works out.

MOLDYOLDHOTELS: Never done that and think I would be a bit past it now. Sounds like a young athletic thing?

IRA: Thanks again for your kind words - YOUR trip report was awesome and is in my reference file for my next trip to France!

MICHAEL: Thats a great tip.

RONDA: Thanks! You must know I'm having those "withdrawal" symptoms by now - only been a week!

"Only been a week"

If you're at all like me, the withdrawal symptoms don't ever go away! Loved your fun report. You hit many placed I'd either forgotten about or never knew existed!

I was glad, too, to see you like the Duquesne Eiffel Hotel. It's been on my list for a few years and I mean to get by there and check it out in January. Do most of the rooms have views of the tower?

Hi JeanneB,
I think the lower floors like 2 & 3 would see only the tip of the Eiffel Tower from the corner rooms that face onto Ave. de Segur.
When I made the reservations for two rooms in early April for Oct. I specified with Venere.com that the rooms HAD to have VERY good views of the tower. As I said in my post we had 45 (triple) and 46 (a double but I was charged single occupancy of course). There are rooms higher but I never went to look.
I did hear a couple at reception complaining about being in a room with no view and was told "there is NO GUARANTEE you will get one even if requested". It may have been the fact I booked so early - don't know.
The rooms facing Ave.Duquesne further along the building would obviously have a view sideways. Could still be good?!
One other thing - The hotel was full of people attending a UNESCO conference at the time of our stay. They probably did not care about the view so we struck it lucky!

For those who like reading books on Paris besides a travel guide, her are the fout I bought at the D'Orsay Museum:

Au Vrai Zinc by Francois Thomazeau

Romantic Paris by Thirza Vallois

Around and about Paris by Thirza Vallois

The Best Places To Kiss in Paris by Thierry Souffiard

Really nice bedside table stuff!

Sorry! - Here are the four....