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Old Nov 10th, 2016, 11:35 AM
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1st time posting: Tuscany Without a Car -- Impossible?

Hello.

New reader and poster here.

Am planning to spend 5 days in Tuscany mid to late December. As in December 2016. As in about 5 weeks from now -- long story. Am throwing myself on your mercy and begging for assistance!

We would greatly refer not to have to drive. If we wanted to spend a few days cruising the countryside, how easy is this to do without one's own set of wheels? I understand we can take a train from Florence to Pisa and/or to Rome, but are there small towns we can stop off at along the way for a night or two to see more of the country? If so, which would you recommend? If not, how expensive would it be to take a taxi from Florence to, say, a little agritourism place located on a dirt road about 5km from San Gimignano ?

Also, has anyone rented a vespa? Are they fairly easy to navigate for a few miles along small lanes (perhaps dirt, gravel) in the day time? At this time of year, not sure about muddy road conditions.

Thank you for any and all responses.

Gratefully,

LL
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Old Nov 10th, 2016, 12:23 PM
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I can't help you a lot as I haven't visited that area, but I will suggest that for train planning (not ticket purchase), the German rail website is very user friendly and useful www.bahn.de

Its big advantage is that it has options to show you all the intermediate stops on a rail route. Between Florence and Roma, you cannot check fast connections or it only shows you Eurostar trains which I think don't stop. But for regional trains between those two, you could stop in Orvieto (a hill town in Umbria) which should be of interest. Another place you might consider where it stops in Tuscany is Arezzo (but Orvieto is probably of more interest).

Florence to Pisa isn't a very long journey, so I don't think you'll want to stop in-between those two and stay a day or more. The regional train stops in Empoli, not sure that's of major interest, you can check.
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Old Nov 10th, 2016, 12:25 PM
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It's not impossible to visit rural Tuscany without a car, but you have to plan it very carefully. First you have to choose a good base, with train or (mostly) bus connections. This bases would almost certainly have to be a larger town, because small towns are not transportation hubs. They're likely to have bus connections to the nearest large town or city, and that's about it. Buses are much more likely than trains to make stops in the center of small towns.

Siena is a fairly good base for your purposes. You can get buses from there to smaller towns like Montalcino, or Montepulciano, or Pienza. Pienza and Montepulciano are near each other, and on the same bus line, so it might even be possible to visit both on the same day, if you get an early start.

Another way to see the countryside is to take a small group wine tour. There are some based in Siena, and you can probably find such tours also in the smaller towns. Even if you're not a big wine drinker, these tours usually stop at farms and wineries, and in a small village or two, and typically include a lunch at a farmhouse or a typical restaurant. Just make sure it's a small group, not a big bus tour. I can't recommend a specific tour, because I've never taken one, but my daughter, who drinks very little wine, took one and enjoyed it.

You might want to spend three nights in Siena, using it as a base for a day trip or two, and two nights in one of the smaller towns I've mentioned. Make sure you research the transportation before booking your stays. Italian towns usually have a densely populated center surrounded by a large rural territory. You might book a B&B in Siena and find that it's in a tiny hamlet with no restaurant and miles from a bus stop.
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Old Nov 10th, 2016, 12:31 PM
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I wrote a long post along the same lines as bvl but lost it somehow; i agree with her, particularly about the danger of finding yourselves isolated out in the middle of nowhere. In December I would want a reasonably big place with museums and galleries that I could visit if the weather were bad.


For day trips into the country, these people get very good reviews here and elsewhere:

http://www.hillsandroads.com/inflash/index.html

there are also tour organisers big and small on TA where you can read reviews of them.

definitely not a good idea to hire a Vespa in December in the middle of the Italian countryside.
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Old Nov 10th, 2016, 01:19 PM
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Sure, you can do it, to some extent, with a LOT of planning, especially with regard to, say, bus schedules, which aren't as easy to deal with in mid-winter as in mid-summer.

Siena is a good choice. Realistically, you need to be in a decent-size town at that time of year - being out in the wildnerness simply isn't going to happen without a car, and probably wouldn't be agreeable anyway.

Personally, renting a Vespa in December in Tuscany strikes me as absolute insanity.
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Old Nov 10th, 2016, 01:56 PM
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StCirq, the bus schedules in Italy are organized mostly for the benefit of Italians. They have different schedules for when school is in session and when it's out. In most cases, there are <b> more </b> buses in the winter than in the summer. The schedules are usually for the benefit of students, though, with early morning buses that arrive in larger towns where there is a high school before 8 AM, and frequent afternoon buses back to the small towns. Service on some lines is spotty at other times of the day.
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Old Nov 10th, 2016, 07:39 PM
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Why aren't you renting a car? It would be so much easier and a better experience.
I wouldn't want to be on Vespa on unfamiliar country roads.
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Old Nov 10th, 2016, 08:16 PM
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Thank you all for your responses -- and not even a single snarky remark, even when I had a typo! A good bunch, you are.

Christina, I will check the German site -- thank you,would never have thought of it.

Bv - you've saved me from making the same mistake twice (fool me once and all that...) -- one I made on Long Island using an out of date guidebook. Have dined out on that story for years, but it isn't so amusing when it is actually happening to you. A wine tour sounds fantastic.

Ann, thank you for the second opinion and the link -- will check out H and R for sure. Always wanted to scoot along on a Vespa -- but guess those fantasies all involve sunshine and flowing, blonde hair (mine, not his).

StC -- have read a couple of your responses to other posters -- a voice of reason and clarity. I'm used to Seattle rain and thought maybe a Vespa would be manageable.

Not so keen on buses -- trains are cool. Like the idea of a small guided tour -- wine tasting or not. Thank you all so very much!

Legs
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Old Nov 11th, 2016, 02:23 AM
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thanks for coming back with your appreciation and ideas, Legs.

I recommend looking at the "what to do" pages of TA for the places you are interesting in staying, not necessarily to use any of the people there but to get ideas about what there is to do in that area. e.g. cookery classes, small tours, even tours on Vespas! [definitely a summer pastime and only then if your insurance is up to it]

Let us know how you get on with your planning!
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Old Nov 11th, 2016, 05:32 AM
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Bookmarking this thread, as I also intend to explore Tuscany without cars (I don't have a driving license, if that makes sense... )


bvlenci and annhig gave very useful advices, as always.
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Old Nov 11th, 2016, 05:57 AM
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I know you said you prefer trains to buses, but trains are very limiting for visiting rural Tuscany. Also, the buses pass through scenic countryside, without the warehouses that tend to be strung along train lines.

Here is the bus company that has service in the province of Siena.

http://www.tiemmespa.it/index.php/Vi...na/Extraurbano

You have to click on "mostra altri" at the bottom of the list to see the full list.

We once stayed in Montalcino for several days; we were touring Tuscany with our own car, but we didn't want to drive into Siena, so we took the bus. It was a very pleasant and scenic ride, and the bus left us right in the center of Siena, whereas with a car we would have had to park in a somewhat distant lot. That's bus line 114 (A = leaving from Siena and R= returning to Siena). It's on the longer version of the list.

Another useful line is 112, which connects Siena to Pienza and Montepulciano.

Both the 112 and the 114 stop in Buonconvento, which means that if you want to stay in a smaller town than Siena, it would be a good base for visits to Siena, Montalcino, Pienza and Montepulciano. I've only passed through Buonconvento, but I know it's been voted one of the "prettiest small towns in Italy".

http://www.borghipiubelliditalia.it/...=region&id=16/

(These are just those in Tuscany.)
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Old Nov 11th, 2016, 07:04 AM
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I have traveled to Tuscany countless times in over 30+ years. In addition, I worked on three major films that shot production there. One of my best friends in Italy is a very successful location scout for the film industry.

Tuscany is a huge land mass. People use the term loosely on travel boards, but when it comes to planning a trip, specifics are important because they matter. How carefully you plan your trip will determine its chances of success.

<i><font color=#555555>"it isn't so amusing when it is actually happening to you."</font></i>

That's correct. The most important question that most tourists never ask is, what do I do when things don't go as planned?

Some snarky posters will foolishly call this post pessimistic. No one who truly knows me would ever say or suggest that. Some travelers like to live in la-la land. For them, travel is like a romance novel where bad things can't happen.

Actual experience has taught me, if you have to ask any travel question that remotely sounds like "is this doable," then it probably won't be the most fun experience, and chances are, any reward factor will be slim.

Sure, some crazy notions in travel are doable. But what level of quality are you inviting into your experience? Are you truly prepared to be stranded in the cold, windy rain, in the middle of nowhere, with no bus or train in sight? And what if nobody speaks English or there's nobody around?

There are public buses that drive the main roads in Tuscany. There are some small towns that have train stations. They all travel on a very limited schedule, and very few of their workers speak English. Sometimes the workers strike. Whenever a tourist plans a trip to Italy, which depends heavily on public transportation, it would be smart for them to consider the Plan B. What do you do when your first plan fails?

Personally, I would never visit Tuscany without a car. For me, the driving experience is what makes Tuscany the experience that it is. Hill towns in Italy share many similarities. The beauty you find in the countryside is far more unique, but that beauty will not be at its best in December.

If you do plenty of research, you will find on certain Tuscan lodging websites discouraging words about visiting without a car. Some lodging owners offer these discouraging words, not because they're pessimistic, but because they know the difficulty and the potential mishaps.

Customers who come to Tuscany without a car always require more help. And, oftentimes, whatever help is available will fail them. It's no fun for any lodging owner to witness a customer endure travel trauma.

Do plenty of research and plan well. Good luck with your decisions.
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Old Nov 11th, 2016, 09:46 AM
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More great advice -- thank you all so much!

HappyT -- We're trying to "forego the Fiat" because neither of us find driving to be relaxing and would love to be able to down a glass at an impulse without worrying about being under the influence.

Ann --I'm on it! Love the TA site. Love the small class/tour idea.

Bv -- My bus prejudice is showing. Most bus stops here lack any kind of cover (say, what? In Seattle?!), the passengers are grumpy (after standing in the drizzle at the bus stop), and the routes inconvenient anywhere but in the downtown corridor. Thank you so much for the links and I'm going to look up Buonconvento next!

Fury -- guessing you're a wildcat! Good luck with your trip. Let me know if you'd like me to post our results afterwards.

NYCFood -- "Some travelers like to live in la-la land. For them, travel is like a romance novel where bad things can't happen."

I call it the "holiday glow" syndrome and I definitely come down with it. Not necessarily a bad thing (people have fun travelling with me -- ha!), but can lead to embarrassing results, like buying two cases of really dreadful plonk you had recalled tasting of sunshine while in Napa or dragging a bunch of friends out to see a truly awful band that you heard jam after hours (waaay after hours)at the Blue Note.

Thank you all again and ciao for niao!

LL
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Old Nov 11th, 2016, 10:02 AM
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HappyT -- We're trying to "forego the Fiat" because neither of us find driving to be relaxing and would love to be able to down a glass at an impulse without worrying about being under the influence. >>

legs - that's one of the reasons we normally stay in a town where we can walk to a selection of bars and restaurants without having to worry about drinking, at least in the evening. In theory I love the idea of staying in the countryside but when we've tried it, it just hasn't worked for us. Especially in winter, we much prefer staying somewhere like Siena where there is plenty to keep us occupied, but also the possibly of taking a tour or two out into the countryside or doing a day trip on the train or bus.

of course you can stay somewhere smaller but then you run the risk that if you are relying on buses, even with a proper covered bus stop, if it's canceled or if the weather is really bad, you can get very cold and wet very quickly. locals can call mama to come and pick them up but you might not be so fortunate!
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Old Nov 11th, 2016, 11:11 AM
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My husband and I have been to Tuscany twice in the last few years as part of larger Italian trips, and in both cases we rented a car just for the Tuscan portion. We like to do the same thing in terms of having a drink without worrying about driving, but we found it to be more than worth the trade off in order to have the freedom of mobility.

The first time we went was November 2013, and I would highly recommend you do a similar thing to what we did. After picking up our rental car in Florence (which was pretty easy - about 5 min of moderate chaos getting onto the main highway, it was then basically one long road for an hour), we drove to and parked at our rental apartment in Montepulciano (which we LOVED, by the way - I'd be happy to recommend it if you'd like). We had been tempted by the idea of an agriturismo, but decided with the time of year that we'd rather stay in a town - VERY happy with that decision (there were a few days of inclement weather where we were happy everything was close by).

We were in Tuscany for five days, and we left the car parked for the most part. We did use it to tour some of the surrounding hill towns for a couple of days (small, cute ones that I didn't see any signs of bus service at), but we came back and parked for the evening. We could then easily walk out for dinner and have a bottle of wine without worrying.

Since you're going to Tuscany, I'm also guessing you like wine - if not, disregard this next bit! So, the other thing to consider is that wine touring in Italy is very different from where I live (we're in Toronto, and frequent the Niagara wine region). Here, we're used to all the wineries having tasting shops, where you can just pop in and try the wines on offer. In Italy, it's very different - most don't have tasting shops just set up and waiting for you. The best way to sample a bunch of wines is just to walk around town - a lot of the vineyards actually do their cellaring right within the walls of Montepulciano, some of which have been using the same cellars for hundreds and hundreds of years! We had a lovely time doing these mini "wine tours" right within town on our own two feet. Since you'll be there around the same time of year, make sure you also try the fresh olive oil - they offer tastings just like the wines, and we brought home a bunch of bottles that were only two weeks old! (Unlike wine which needs to age, olive oil is better the fresher it is.)

We did want to visit some wineries directly to sample their wares, though, so we also went with Hills & Roads, which has already been recommended to you here. We actually did a tour with them both times we visited Tuscany, so I can double-stamp this recommendation!

For our second visit, we were there in the summer (just this past July!), and since we figured on better weather we stayed at an agriturismo about 2km outside San Gimignano. Here we did use a car a lot more - even at 2km out of town, you basically can't do ANYTHING without having a car. 2km isn't far on paved sidewalks, but these are windy, hilly dirt roads. Unless you're RIGHT outside town, you're driving for everything, every day.

We really enjoyed both trips, but for what it's worth we actually preferred the Montepulciano area (called Val d'Orcia).

So to summarize, I personally recommend you stay in town (especially Montepulciano!). This would be doable without a car, but I still recommend getting one and mostly leaving it parked. Rentals aren't that expensive, so you'll enjoy both freedom from NEEDING the car but also enjoying the freedom of having it if you want it (perhaps a happy compromise?).
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Old Nov 11th, 2016, 11:42 AM
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>> Let me know if you'd like me to post our results afterwards.

Sure There are not many people exploring Tuscany on foot (and bus) so I would like to hear about it. Plus, any trip report/feedback is welcome in Fodors.
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Old Nov 11th, 2016, 01:19 PM
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The tiemmespa.it site which bvlenci cited is a very good resource for local buses in the area (but doesn't cover the whole of Tuscany). trenitalia if the Italian rail site. I've visited Tuscany and Umbria a few times and always used a combination of train and bus. Like the OP, I MUCH prefer to not have to drive when on holiday if I can possibly avoid it. Of course you can't see every small town without a car but I've still seen plenty of beautiful ones and I like the way it forces me to slow town and concentrate on fewer places. I also feel that if local bus services are not used (whether in Italy or elsewhere) then services will further reduce. I've never travelled in Europe in December but if services are more frequent then that's great for you. As you only have 5 days, you should find heaps of things to see and do in Tuscany without a car.
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Old Nov 11th, 2016, 02:50 PM
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We also opted not to drive and I spent a lot of time searching for that perfect hilltop town for our first trip to Italy in July.

I found it ... Volterra, so charming, many little streets to wander, elevated views over the countryside, piazzas, churches, incredible wall and gates, it was like being in a dream. We stayed 2 nights and I would have been happy to have had a 3rd and we didn't even get to the Etruscan museum, or the Palazzo, it was just so gorgeous wandering, enjoying a drink, soaking up the atmosphere. I have a TR with photos if you click on my name, lots of Volterra shots!

I had considered some day tour options from Florence, but I felt that I'd be more frustrated with the constraints of a tour.

Pontedera is the nearest train hub, direct line to Florence, and the bus station is 200m away (head slightly right as you exit the train station), with schedules on line. It has about 6 bus lanes and signage at end of each. Minimal English here (ticket office nor bus drivers), but we knew the words for tickets, had the bus timetable in hand, and found locals helpful, with 1 gentleman running back to us to point out the oncoming bus (which very helpfully had "Volterra" on signage ). The bus ride is about 90 mins, pretty countryside and such a wow moment when it approaches Volterra. Bus terminus is right at the main square to the pedestrian area. Return bus tickets bought from Tabbachi at the square.

We also used the bus system in the Dolomites, and found if you familiarise yourself with the timetable beforehand and you can plan your travel well.
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Old Nov 11th, 2016, 03:43 PM
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>>>Montepulciano, or Pienza. Pienza and Montepulciano<<<

It's not easy to visit these towns by bus from Siena for a day trip (times won't work usually). Montalcino is fairly easy though although mid afternoon might not have any bus service for about 3 hours.

The buses in rural Tuscany aren't like city buses. They are more like tour buses and if you have luggage, you place it underneath in the storage area (the driver will expect you to do it).

There aren't many amenities in these small towns so don't count on rentals without checking first.

Siena is better by bus from Florence than train because the bus is faster (take the rapid bus) and drops you at the historic center. The train station is farther away.

You might consider Montepulciano for a couple of nights. You would take the regional train from Florence to Chuisi Chianciano and change to the bus to Montepulciano (about 30 minutes away).

Another option for a stop (although not Tuscany) is Orvieto. The regional train stops there and you take the funicular up to the hill town.

To reach San G., you would have to bus (or two), but there used to be vespa rentals there (it's been a few years since I stayed there).

In these small towns, even if there are buses, there may be no service on Sunday so plan accordingly. Trains may have reduced Sunday service too.
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Old Nov 11th, 2016, 04:35 PM
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Oops, amending my previous comment, head 'left' from Pontedera train station to bus station....
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