Lovely report. Would you mind sharing the information for the apartment you rented? Merci bien.

Kurosawa, thank you. Here is the link.http://www.vrbo.com/44176

cindyjo, thanks again! It looks beautiful.

Sorry this wasn't labeled as a trip report. I checked the box and also made some spelling corrections but the site was doing some weird stuff. Will restart a new topic on next installment with trip report label.

A friend of mine stayed at Doug's place. Looks like a lovely patio there. Doug also has a Paris forum-our Paris, variations on a theme.

cindyjo, instead of starting a new thread, try sending an email to the editors. They can mark this as a trip report for you.

I am enjoying your report. My late wife and I stayed in that apartment a couple of months before the fire; it is wonderful to see it restored so beautifully. And, as others have remarked, the owner is very, very good to deal with.

By coincidence, my daughter and I are staying in the 1st this week and are planning to walk through Batignolles today. If you look out your window and see two people looking up at the building, that will be us.

Looking forward to the rest of your report ...

CindyJo,

What a great report – you write from the perspective of one who has been to Paris before but open to exploring a different neighborhood and experience. I look forward to reading more.

You wrote:

“Was impressed with the history of the Commune and appalled at the loss of life during the quelling of their rebellion. Also a little appalled at my lack of knowledge about this period of French history.”

When you get home, I suggest reading THE GREATER JOURNEY, AMERICANS IN PARIS 1830-1900 by David McCollough. This book gave me a greater understanding of 19th century French history than many other tomes I have read over the years – particularly good on the many political revolutions and especially the bloody Commune fiasco.

Awaiting your next post…

AnselmAdorne, am glad you are reliving good memories from this report. Looking out the window for you but haven't seen anyone gazing up!

Latedaytraveler, what a coincidence, found that book here at Doug's place last night and have started it this morning. One of the reasons we are getting such a late start. We need to remind ourselves that we are, afterall, on vacation.

Heading out to the Batignolles Square with a trip toward rue de Levis and onward to Parc Monceau. Grey here today but a promise of sun later.

I'm definitely bookmarking that apartment. We've stayed in the 18th twice, will be in the 9th in May, but the 17th is always towards the top of the list. I love that area you're in.

Right around you is the church of Sainte Marie des Batignolles, where we heard a wonderful concert a couple years ago. Maybe something to check out, if that's of interest to you.

Needless to say, I'm really enjoying this, cindyjo! Thanks, and looking forward to more.

cindyjo, we were there this morning, around 11:45, I think it was. The outside of the building is looking good, especially the brickwork.

The memories are mixed, actually. The story is here: http://www.fodors.com/community/europe/susans-paris.cfm

We are going back home tomorrow afternoon. It sounds like you are settling in for a wonderful visit.

You should also visit the Parc Martin Luther King just one block beyond the back end of the Square des Batignolles.

I am so happy to see that this apartment has been restored, and is again available!

Thanks for your continuing delightful report.

Enjoying your report; we will be in Paris this time next week. I bought tickets online for the Edward Hopper exhibit at the Grand Palais. Funny to go to Paris to see Hopper, but I love his work.
We will get the US election results from Paris, which should be an interesting perspective. We already voted absentee ballot.
Looking forward to the rest of your report.

Enjoying another great view of Paris.

Yes, I am still missing Paris! Great report....love St Denis!

Some responses from me to you.

AnselmAdorne, I was very touched by reading your trip report. Am sorry that we missed your look up. We actually were here at that time and would have shouted down to invite you for a cup of tea! Hope you are well on your way home.

Opaldog, we have thought of seeing the Hopper exhibit as well. We haven't bought tickets yet. Will try to do so tomorrow as our time here is flying, or should I say melting.

YankyGal, no luck with a concert at Sainte Marie des Batignolles while we are here. We did sit for a spell in the church yesterday afternoon, enjoying the solitude.

Keroac - we walked,through what looked like a sports area in the Parc Martin Luther King but didn't see a way past the fence. We did see the sign describing the development. Looks like a lot of greenspace. Tomorow we will nose around around for an entrance to explore further. What kind of housing will it be? Mixed use? My French is not good enough to manage much of the description on the sign.

Yesterday - Pretty laid back day. As mentioned earlier, I started reading The Greater Journey and didn't want to put it down. left the apartment about noon and walked to,the Square Batignolles. Did spend some time watching the petanque/boules (what is the difference? Anyone?) and wandered through the park watching the young families with their darling little children. It is a delight for us to see the gaggle of parents gathered outside the schools waiting for their kids. We come from a rural area where the kids come home on the bus. I think we miss out on the camaraderie of the "pick up".

We walked down rue Legendre to rue Levis and on past numerous embassies to the Parc Monceau. What a lovely park. It was raining lightly, yellow leaves were swirling along walkways and Parisians with open umbrellas were strolling along the wide paths. The image was worthy of a place on the wall of the d'Orsay. Because of the rain, we did not use the Velib system, but are determned to try before the end of our visit.

I loved the plantings at Parc Monceau. It seems as if the French have gotten away from the more formal plantings I have seen in the past. As a gardener, I noticed the use of grasses, euphorbias and other drought tolerant plants. We also appreciated the ancient looking yews and plane trees.

It was interesting to walk through rue Mariotte, rue Dulong area along the rail tracks on our walk to Parc Monceau. We had looked at a few apartments in the area and were warned against it. It is a bit bleak but not a place I wouldn't stay. Actually we haven't visited any neighborhood we wouldn't stay yet. It seems as if the defining word is neighborhood, a place with a sense of community life.

On the way home from Parc Monceau, we stopped at rue de la Terrasse off rue des Levis at Androuet sur le Pouce for a cheese purchase. What a great shop. I again tried to communicate with my poor French and they met me more than halfway. Very kind with good suggestions and delicious cheese.

We ate in last night but then went for a late night walk through the Batignolles ending up on Avenue St. Ouen. Was fun walking past full to capacity restaurants on rue des Dames, I understand now how important it is to make a reservation on the weekends even to the most casual of restaurants.

Tomorrow we will have an early start at the Marche Biologique on Avenue Batignolles and then Metro 13 to Monparnasse: Monparnasse Tower, Monparnasse Cemetary and Fondation Cartier Bresson.

ttt

Love the look of the flat and am so glad you were able to return. Looking forward to the next installment.

Cindyjo, continuing to enjoy your Paris sojourn.

Re: McCullough’s THE GREATER JOURNEY, you wrote-
“Pretty laid back day. As mentioned earlier, I started reading The Greater Journey and didn't want to put it down.”

Isn’t it a great read? To me the most fascinating part is from the diary of the American ambassador to France, Elihu Washburne, during the Franco-Prussian War and the siege of Paris. Parisians resorted to eating the animals in the zoo. Washburne did all he could to protect those American nationals who could not escape, along with the poorer German citizens/servants also stuck in the city.

McCullough’s description of the Commune period is also intriguing. Curiously, I am now reading THE JOHNSTOWN FLOOD, another old McCullough gem even as Hurricane Sandy bears down on the east coast of the US.

Looking forward to more of your trip…if we still have electricity

I stayed in that apartment several years ago and really enjoyed the apartment and the neighborhood. If all the people from this message board who stayed in that apartment got together, it would be quite a gathering.

Excellent report, cindyjo.

Thanks for the report cindyjo, and the head's up about the construction noise. DH won't be happy...we're headed to that very apartment next week!

can you get some ear-plugs, Iregeo?

Well, it feels as we have been north, south, east and west in the last few days. Weather continues to hold with grey mornings and clearing afternoons. Tonight it is a beautiful full moon.

Saturday morning we made our way to the Marche Bio des Batignolles and enjoyed people watching as well as buying vegies for our last few days. Bought a potato/pancake from a young man making them as fast as he could. Again we found trying a bit of French often paves the way for a nice interaction. He told us of his car trip across the United States from Boston to Los Angeles with points inbetween. Or at least I think that is what he said to us! We decided to visit the cheese shop in rue Levis again. I was a bit intimated at the cheese stand at the marche. The lines were long and I knew I had to be ready with my choice and the cash which makes me nervous and those nice folks at Androuet sur la Pouce were so helpful. Had the same good experience there again.
Home again to Rue Truffaut to drop off our groceries and organize for our trip to Monparnase. We took the Metro Line 13 all the way to Gare Monparnasse and spotted the Tour across the street. We pretty much walked right in. No lines. Took the fast elevator to the 59th floor and stepped out to a fabulous view of Paris. All the major sights of Paris in a 360 degree view. We have enjoyed the view from the Eiffel Tower, and Notre Dame but did not want to fight the crowds this time

Oops, hit the submit button......

Anyway, would recommend the Monparnasse tower for a wonderful view of all of Paris.

We walked to Bistrot du Dome, 1 rue Delambre for a 2:30 lunch reservation. The place was filled when we arrived and empty when we left. It was a delicious meal. Fortified with fish, we spent the rest of the daylight walking through the Monparnasse Cemetary where we visited Jean Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir, Saint Saens, Susan Sontag and Man Ray. Back to Chez Truffaut for bread and cheese for dinner.

Here is an observation with a question. We are from Seattle where it is often grey and rainy. We have noticed that the temperature in Paris may be the same as Seattle but feels tres tres colder. does this have something to do with proximity to the Atlantic vs Pacific?

Iregeo, the noise is over promptly at 4pm and most likely you will be out and about during most of the work. Do bring slippers or warm socks. The apartment is warm but the wooden floor is a bit chilly in bare feet. Also take care as the floor is a little slippery in socks. No complaints though, it is a great place.

Latedaytraveler, totally entralled with the McCullough book.

Next up Pompidou, Victor Hugo, and a walk in the Marais making us grateful to be in the 17th.

Addendum to our Monparnasse day: A visit to Fondation Jacques Cartier Bresson for an exhibit by Moi Wer entitled Ci-Contre. The photographic techniques used to superimpose images were no doubt ground breaking but the photos that held my interest were those of the lives of workers in the early 1930s. No picnic to be a blue collar worker in those days. We had to laugh again at a CNN clip seen the night before of scion of industry justifying his wealth by complaining about how hard he works. He needs to see these photos......

Sunday: On our way to,the Pompidou we passed Eglise St. Nicolas just as mass was ending. We were surprised at the full to capacity service and smiled to see a pile of little scooters surrounding one of the huge stone pillars inside the church, even bigger smiles as we watched the kids ride their scooters down the aisles toward their parents!
Got to the Pompidou at opening. No lines, no crowds. I know there are those who have a low opinion of the Pompidou, but we love it. The museum is easy to navigate and we like the artistic timeline broken into 2 floors. But what we really love is the juxtaposition of inside art on the walls and the outside art of the Paris skyline. I do think the building is ugly from the outside but it was a stroke of genious to place the escalators outside of the building, blurring the outside/inside space.
Many of the installations make us smile and sometimes laugh but there is plenty to love. I especially like the Chagall pieces, the Matisse gouaches decoupee and the various outside sculptures. Adel Abdessemed's floating skeleton and Kadar Attia's ghosts and Cy Twombley's unnamed spire will be remembered from this visit.

We spent 2-3 hours in the museum and then walked toward the Marais with my destination Pylones on rue
de la St. Croix de la Bretonnerie. Great inexpensive shop for grandchildren presents. Bought a crepe on the street to tide us over and made our way through the throngs to Place de Vosges. We sat on a bench watching parents watching their kids playing in the large sandbox and then walked over to Maison de Victor Hugo. My husband's father was named after him by his mother who revered the author. Visiting the maison was an homage to them both as well as an interesting experience in itself. And the site is free!

Home by Metro and made a lovely dinner with the produce from the Marche on Saturday. Caught up on the presidential race and the upcoming Sandy Storm. Tomorrow we will learn how to recharge our Navigo passes and endure the perspiration inducing experience of purchasing a sim card for my ipad from Orange. Also planning to visit The Memorial de la Shoah.

Here is an observation with a question. We are from Seattle where it is often grey and rainy. We have noticed that the temperature in Paris may be the same as Seattle but feels tres tres colder. does this have something to do with proximity to the Atlantic vs Pacific?>>

cindyjo - i think it's more to do with maritime [which are warmer and wetter] as opposed to continental climates [which have greater extremes of temperature] I know that Paris is not exactly in the middle of a land mass, but it is much more "continental" then Seattle [if my geography is any good]. any way, i know what you mean about Paris being cold - my DH worked there one spring, and the weekends I went to visit him are some of the coldest I can remember.

I think it might be more a case of knowing how, when and where to take cover when necessary in one's home city. I have been chilled to the bone in both Seattle and Vancouver simply because I did not know where to go to warm up on a damp chilly rainy day (I have even been to Vancouver in the snow, and that is apparently a rare event!).

very true, kerouac. DH was staying in a cheap hotel in the 19th and i don't think he ever got warm there [except when I was staying of course!]

Monday: after spending the morning tidying up the apartment and doing some reading, we walked to Clichy to the nearby Orange store. It was a positive experience although by the time we left I had sweat running down the small of my back. I wanted a French sim card for my ipad. I approached a young man at the counter and asked my usual "Parlez vous anglais, monsieur?". He answered me as several youth have answered "Parlez vous francais"? Having a 28 year old I recognize the cockiness of a twenty something when I see it. But after attempting my pauvre French, he warmed up and made a very concerted effort to help us. Yes, you must call to recharge your sim after 48 hours. We ended up buying 2 eight euro sims to last long enough to get us through this leg. My French is definitely not good enough for automated telephone conversations so we figured we could do the recharge with the help of our British landlords in the Dordogne. Next was our Navigo recharge from the same nice Metro worker at Place de Clichy. Easy peasy.

We then caught the Metro to St. Paul and meandered around this area which we have always liked, very quiet on a Monday. In the little antique square owners were sitting outside polishing their silver in the sunshine. We crossed the river to l'isle de Louis and had an ice cream for lunch "Why not? We're on vacation" has become our refrain.
We stopped at BHV to do a bricollage walk through. My husband found the perfect big hinges for our barn door: Right size, color, look. Too bad he had to modify ugly ones last spring after looking high and low in the states. Also made a trip to the drapery department for silk tassel purchase for my 10 year old grandaughter. This makes a great gift for a tween girl just beginning to seek the solitude of her own room. She hangs them from her door.

The last 2 visits to Paris we managed to miss openings of the Shoah Memorial and this was a priority for this visit. The memorial is the result of incredible research with a focus not only on the historical context of the Holocaust but on the personal stories of those who were lost, those who survived and those who resisted. We spent 2 emotionally exhauting hours there. I am sure that those who pass through this memorial will "never forget".

Needing to walk off the intensity of the experience we made our way through the backstreets around rue Rivoli to Bastille and then by subway to Oberkamph where we had dinner at Soya, 20 rue de la Peree. Great vegetarian restaurant with friendly staff who are willing to trade English and French back and forth. Metro home to catch up on Sandy. Hoping any readers from the area affected are out of harm's way.

It already appears we won't be able to finish our To Do list this visit. Doesn't seem to matter because we are having a great time. And I have to say, it is heavenly coming home to rue Truffaut every evening.

If all goes well, tomorrow we will hit the Louvre Arts Decoratifs thanks to Nukesafe's trip report.

Cindyjo, you wrote re Shoah Memorial:

“The memorial is the result of incredible research with a focus not only on the historical context of the Holocaust but on the personal stories of those who were lost, those who survived and those who resisted.”

Since we talked books earlier, may I suggest one to read when you return? BAD FAITH, A Forgotten History of Family, Fatherland, and Vichy France by Carmen Cahill. Rather hefty, it tells the story of one of history’s most despicable villains and con men—Louis Darquier de Pellepoix, Nazi collaborator and “Commissioner for Jewish Affairs,” who managed the Vichy government’s dirty work, “controlling” its Jewish population.

I have a particular interest in the machinations of the Nazi occupation in France during WWII. Love SUITE FRANCAIS.

On a lighter note, I really enjoyed the Victor Hugo Museum in the Place des Vosges – especially the view from the top floor of the “square” below – wow!

Continuing to enjoy your great trip report…

cindyjo, we made it home, safe and sound. It was a good week.

You have certainly been off the beaten path on this trip! It is a pleasure to read your report.

TTT

Tuesday: Slow morning and lunch again at Joy of Food at the corner of rue Truffaut and rue des Dames. We like it very much. Had read Nukesafe's trip report and we were excited to visit The Arts Decoratif at the Louvre. Disappointed that the line was huge so headed for the Rodin, one of our favorite museums in Paris. We walked past the horrendous crowds at the Musee d'Orsay and wandered through the 6th doing some window shopping. The crowds at the Rodin were manageable and entry took just minutes. For those on their way to Paris, the gardens close at 5pm. The changes in the museum are for the better with a lovely entry and exhibition of pieces in marble as well as an improved boutique. We did miss some favorite pieces, either the museum is still in repair or they are on loan. The garden was outstanding with rose blooms still framing The Thinker. We thorougly enjoyed our visit. We headed back to the 17em to do some grocery shopping for dinner. All in all a lovely day after the disappointment of missing our primary destination.

Wednesday: Determined to see,the Arts Decoratif, we got moving early and arrived at the Louvre around 10am. i enjoyed being the only one in line for awhile, feeling somewhat relevant as I answered "onze heures" to the folks asking me about the opening. A father and son joined me. We laughed as they had tried to attend yesterday as well and were determined to be in the front of the line today. They took the train from the Netherlands and were in Paris for a few days holiday. We had a very nice conversation (of course they were fluent in English). Upon entering we headed to the Van Cleef and Arpels exhibition which was beautifully displayed. One of the best parts of the exhibition was a short film on the process of concept, design and manufacture of pieces of jewelry. It was subtitled in English and very interesting to someone who knows very little about the art form.
We wandered through the museum enjoying the floors 1-3 with the exception of the Star Wars exhibit. Disappointed to see that the two floors devoted to Fashion were closed for preparations for a new exhibit. After going around in circles trying to find our way to,the upper floors to view the furniture, I sought help from the Information Desk........STRIKE. Those floors would not be open that afternoon and to add insult to injury, entrance was now free to the musee due to the strike! We were, of course, again disappointed but realize this is Paris and one has to accept strikes. A few years back, we were turned away from a highly anticipated performance at Opera Garnier - STRIKE. I did talk with the clerk at the Boutique at the Musee. She apologized for the inconvenience but said she supports the strike as she "doesn't make such a good salary".

We had lunch midway through our visit at Le Saut de Loup at the museum and it was very good. We sat outside as it was beautiful clear and warm for an end of October day. What an incredible setting to have a delicious lunch. A whitefish perfectly cooked with mashed sweet potatoes, a glass of wine and a trio of desserts with a cafe for 19 euros. A delicious bargain. Who would have thought? We also had a laugh at the maitre d' running around with a squirt bottle aimed at the pigeons trying to sneak a bite from the plates of unsuspecting diners.
We spent a couple of hours walking through the Tuileries, admiring the last of the garden blooms and the kids with their little boats on the water. We admired the Pyramid, loving the juxtaposition to the grounds of the Louvre. Yes, we really do like it and cannot imagine anything else in it's spot.
Walked to Notre Dame and got there just as the bells began to ring. This was a first for me and quite an acoustical thrill. We lined up for the slow march into,the church and stayed for mass. We are not affiliated with a religion but appreciate the faith of others and very much enjoy liturgical music. We did not make it to a concert this trip despite our best intentions and were happy to experience music in this beautiful space. Home again to rue Truffaut for dinner and a plan for our last day in Paris.

Thursday: Last day in Paris....awoke to rain. Decided last night to head to St. Denis today to see the Basilica. What a good decision that was!
We caught the Metro 13 at Place de Clichy for the 15-20 minute to St. Denis. As we came up the stairs a huge storm blew through with high wind and a downpour of rain and hail. We took cover along with many laughing and shouting Parisians and waited a few minutes until it blew through. A huge market was underway in the square area, and I mean huge. We strolled through but didn't buy anything. But now I know where to come to buy socks when I need them.

What can I say about St. Denis Basilica? It knocked our socks off! How did we never visit this church before. It is magnificant. It should be on everyone's list who visits Paris. The architecture, the stained glass, the rainbows cast upon the stone pillars from the sun streaming through the glass, the necropolis with the remains of royalty including Clovis.......Clovis! We were awed. The audio guide is an extra expense but well worth it as it gives historical context to the Basilica and those who are buried there.

Please don't be put off by the comments you may read about the safety of the neighborhood. Just folks living their lives as far as I could see.

As an aside: In researching our trek to St. Denis, I read an old Fodors post recommending a Nova program: Building the Great Cathedrals. We downloaded it last night and watched before heading to the Basilica. I am so glad we did. It added to,our appreciation of gothic architecture.

Had our our last meal in Paris (pad thai at Aux Colouers du Monde at the end of Truffaut. Tasted great.) Now home to pack up for our train ride to start our week in the Dordogne. Had a grand time in Paris and will miss this great apartment. Thanks to all who took the time to read this report. I hope it may be of help in some small way to those planning a trip or reliving a past one.

I am reading this in anticipation of our 6th trip to Paris in March. We leave 4 months from today and we are just as excited as if it were our first time. We are going to Rome and Sicily again also. But there is just something special for my husband and I about Paris, some kind of magic.

We went to Paris for Christmas last year and made a trip to St. Denis also. We thought it was magnificent. I was a little worried after reading a few comments about the safety of the surrounding area also. We had no problems and thoroughly went through the market that was set up. I bought a scarf and we looked at stalls for a good while. At one point we heard the Cee Lo song "Forget You", but the original version, blaring from someones boom box. We just looked at each other and said CeeLo and cracked up laughing.

I really enjoyed your trip, and it sounds like you did too. Thanks for sharing it.

Great report, cindyjo. That was a really impressive storm yesterday -- I was in the gardens of Saint Germain-en-Laye and nearly didn't make it to the RER in time!

Thank you for your really interesting report. I have made notes about an area that I do not know for my trip in May 2013.
Looding forward to your next report.

What a great report, cindyjo! "Writing as you go" seems to have worked for you, but having tried it before, I know it requires plenty of discipline! So thanks for that, and have a great trip to the Dordogne.

I have thoroughly enjoyed your report. As I write this I am waiting to go to the airport, BOS for our trip to Paris and Barcelona. Only 4 nights in Paris this time and 4 nights in Barcelona. That's all the time I can take from work right now. We are going to the Hopper exhibit on Sunday and Reims on Monday.

Thanks so much, CindyJo. Your trip seems absolutely ideal to me, I would love to repeat it! Especially next time, we will definitely go to St. Denis.

Looking forward to hearing about your time in the Dordogne

What a pleasurable report.
Remember what you missed and say,
"We'll always have Paris"

"Please don't be put off by the comments you may read about the safety of the neighborhood. Just folks living their lives as far as I could see."

Perfect, cindyjo.

I've been twice to St-Denis; it is a wonderful place for those interested in French history and early Gothic architecture.