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16 Days in Scotland in May with Our Two Boys

16 Days in Scotland in May with Our Two Boys

Old Jan 31st, 2017, 11:17 AM
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16 Days in Scotland in May with Our Two Boys

Hi! I don’t know how I’m going to wait until May for this trip… I’m already bursting with excitement : ) I’ve been dreaming for years of a trip to Scotland and it seems to be becoming a reality. And it is always with great anticipation when I come onto Fodors to post a first draft of a trip itinerary! It’s because I know just how much wonderful, vital information we always get back from Fodorites and how the trip is truly about to take shape!

A bit of background… We are from Toronto, Canada and my hubbie and I have always loved to travel; we now have 2 young-ish sons (aged almost 7 and 9) and have traveled with them on some wonderful adventures in the US and have done some very adventurous hiking - they always amaze us with what they will/can do! We’ll be traveling mid-May and will have 16 days in-country (with two additional travel days).

I’ve written out our itinerary (a very rough first draft) below. I’d love to hear back with any suggestions about things to do, what order to do things in, whether the itinerary is way too much (keeping in mind that we like to keep very busy!), how much time various stops will need, any advice about what kids our age would like to do most, etc. We all love to hike and are very much looking forward to that aspect of our trip… any advice about appropriate hikes would be much appreciated. But I realize that we always tend to focus on hikes, and so I'd really like to try to include other interesting activities -- plus, we are all very interested in castles, so that's a must! Anyways, any and all feedback is welcome — can’t wait!

One final thing… and this is a biggie for me. Our youngest son has a severe allergy to several tree nuts (primarily cashews and pistachios -- are these nuts that you see a lot on Scottish menus?). When we first discovered his allergy, I really thought it would halt our traveling, but I’ve since faced my fears and we are simply extremely diligent/cautious about what and where we eat. And so if anyone could answer a few questions for me (just-in-case-an-emergency-happens questions). Where are the reputable hospitals located? Is there an emergency service (e.g. 911/ambulance/air) available all over and how fast can it be? (we’ll have lots of epipens with us, but still need emergency services just in case). I'd love to hear from anyone who has traveled there with a nut allergy and can you share any information about restaurants, advice about where to go/avoid, etc. I would really appreciate it. 



Okay, without further ado, here’s the itinerary (sorry for the novel of an email -- I just always find that it's better to provide a lot of the background information up front)…! I know that I have a TON of research still to do (my favourite thing to do!), but I know that it's better to finalize our route before doing more specific research...

Here it is : )

Day 1: Depart for Scotland from Toronto

Day 2: Arrive in Glasgow at 9:35am
Train ride to Edinburgh (1h 20m) ~ Afternoon and evening in Edinburgh
Overnight in Edinburgh (where?)

Day 3: Day in Edinburgh
Visit the castle, Royal Mile, the sights
Overnight in Edinburgh (where?)

Day 4: Stirling/Loch Lomond/Trossachs
Pick up rental car when leaving Edinburgh (and return it in Glasgow?) ~ Stirling and Doane castles (Castle Campbell too?) ~ End up in Trossachs NP
Where to stay within Trossachs NP?

Day 5: Trossachs NP/Glencoe
Possible suggestions in Trossachs: Hike Conic Hill? Hike Loch Lomond itself? Devil’s Staircase hike? Ben A’An? ~ Drive in the late afternoon to Glencoe (could we see Kilchurn Castle enroute?).
Try to stay at Clachaig Inn, Glencoe

Day 6: Explore Glen Coe
Ideas: Glen Etive hike, Lost Valley
Overnight in Glencoe (Clachaig?).

Day 7: Explore Glencoe
Overnight in the Glencoe area (Clachaig?).

Day 8: Road to the Isles
Leave Glencoe for Road to the Isles - from Fort William to Mallaig
Bridge to Skye
Overnight on Skye (try to stay at Sligachan, as recommended by fodorites)

Day 9: Explore Skye
Possible ideas: Tallisker Distillery ~ Hiking possibilities: Old Man of Storr, Quirang, Fairy Glen
Overnight on Skye (Sligachan?)

Day 10: Explore Skye
We’d also really like to see Plockton (highly recommended by friends – maybe we should head here for the evening/night instead?)
Overnight on Skye (Sligachan) or in Plockton?

Day 11: Wester Ross/Northwest Coast
Visit Eilean Donan Castle ~ Head north along the coast to Ullapool area ~ Sights to see?
Where to overnight?

Day 12: Smoo Cave and Durness
Continue north to the tip, then head west to the cave. Explore.
Where to overnight?

Day 13: Drive south to Inverness/Loch Ness area
(Which route is recommended? If we head south right from Smoo Cave, maps suggests it’s less than a 3 hour drive, which sounds more feasible for our trip than trying to go around the entire northern coast. While it’s supposed to be beautiful, it may just be too much driving…?)
Possible ideas for this day once south: Urquhart Castle, boat cruise to spot “Nessie”
Overnight in Glen Affrich?

Day 14: Loch Ness area/Head East
Spend half day in the Loch Ness/Glen Affrich area (doing some of that listed above); depart for east coast (2.5h)
Evening and overnight in Aberdeen or Stonehaven?

Day 15: Dunnottar Castle/Glenrothes Distillery
Explore Dunnottar Castle (this castle visit has been requested by my hubbie – I know it’s a long way for just one day); Drum Castle; city of Aberdeen? ~ Drive to Aviemore
Overnight at Hilton Coylumbridge Resort (Aviemore) (reason for this resort is for the kids to enjoy the amenities)

Day 16: Hilton Coylumbridge/Son’s Birthday
Time at the resort, enjoying the pools etc ~ Any suggestions for fun things to do in the area?
Overnight at Coylumbridge resort.

Day 17: Gordon Castle Highland Games/Glasgow
Highland Games are high up on our list of "must-sees" and we're lucky because Gordon Castle holds theirs just before we leave Scotland! We just knew we had to fit it in, even if it makes for a rushed ending...
Need to leave the Games by 3pm at the latest; drive is at least 4h to Glasgow
Overnight in Glasgow (where?).

Day 18: Flight Home
Depart Glasgow at 1:00pm

Let the itinerary take shape!

Thanks so much in advance!
Jenn
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Old Jan 31st, 2017, 11:53 AM
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first things first. >>>>Where are the reputable hospitals located? Is there an emergency service (e.g. 911/ambulance/air) available all over and how fast can it be?>Overnight in Edinburgh (where?)>Stirling and Doane castles (Castle Campbell too?)>Where to stay within Trossachs NP?>(could we see Kilchurn Castle enroute?).>Try to stay at Clachaig Inn, Glencoe>Leave Glencoe for Road to the Isles - from Fort William to Mallaig
Bridge to Skye >(try to stay at Sligachan, as recommended by fodorites)>We’d also really like to see Plockton (highly recommended by friends – maybe we should head here for the evening/night instead?)>sounds more feasible for our trip than trying to go around the entire northern coast. >Day 15: Dunnottar Castle/Glenrothes Distillery
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Old Jan 31st, 2017, 01:01 PM
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>

Or every bloody liquor store.

If you or the old man are whisky fans, go to Royal Mile Whiskies in Edinburgh and figure out how to wrap up the good stuff to take home in your checked baggage. Unfortunately, they won't give out tastings to the boys, so you'll have to figure out another way to calm them down.
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Old Jan 31st, 2017, 01:47 PM
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One day in Edinburgh -I'd give at least another one or have you been there before?

If you or the old man are whisky fans, go to the Scotch Whisky Experience right smack by Edinburgh Castle- board moving chairs fashioned out of old whisky barrels as they take you thru the history and making of Scotch whisky:

https://www.scotchwhiskyexperience.c...ur-experiences

kids will enjoy the ride if not the tasting room at the end.

And everyone may like the Camera Obscura right by the castle too:

http://www.camera-obscura.co.uk/ = lots for kids.

So three great family things clustered by the castle.
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Old Jan 31st, 2017, 01:52 PM
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https://www.secret-scotland.com/Attr...ling-jail.html

The kids will also enjoy the tour thru Stirling's Old Town Jail:

http://www.stirlingghostwalk.com/bef.../old-town-jail
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Old Jan 31st, 2017, 01:57 PM
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We took our 9 and 11 yo boys to Scotland last July and had an amazing time. For what it's worth:

I'd skip Stirling Castle. So different than what I remember from visit in 1997. To museum-like.

Boys LOVED Doune and Kilchurn castles! Put those before a visit to Stirling.
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Old Jan 31st, 2017, 02:01 PM
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>>One day in Edinburgh -
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Old Jan 31st, 2017, 02:04 PM
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If you end up staying in Ullapool, I have a good hotel recommendation.
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Old Jan 31st, 2017, 02:05 PM
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Re Stirling -- it is magnificent but in ways is similar to Edinburgh Castle so IF your time is short that is one thing you could cut (I personally would include it though)

And unfortunately Kilchurn (one of my very favorites) might not be possible -- but not to worry since there are countless other great castles.
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Old Jan 31st, 2017, 05:26 PM
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I would potentially cut one day from Glencoe and add it to Edinburgh. We went a year ago and I wished we'd scheduled more time there.

If you only do one hike on Skye I'd do Quiraing. Storr was just an uphill slog without much change in scenery. The fairy pools are also cool but I would say more of a walk than a real hike. Also with kids you could do Kylerhea to go to the otter hide (a fairly short walk).

An easy but interesting hike by Aviemore is the route around Loch an Eilein. It's a super still, clear lake that has a small castle on an island in the middle.

One note on hiking, is I will say Scotland had the most poorly marked trails of any country I've ever been to (US, Switzerland, Spain, Brazil,++). When they say they recommend trail maps, they mean it. Forks in the trail are rarely marked, etc. The "bog factor" is also very real - bring waterproof boots. I still loved the hiking but just something to be aware of.
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Old Jan 31st, 2017, 06:58 PM
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As usual, coming a bit late to this thread; maybe the following is already moot.

I understand your enthusiasm and I certainly don't want to throw cold water on anything, but some candid thoughts...

1. May. It's not summer, and it can quite be windy and wet, especially in the west. Of course it might not be, but it's a gamble. The problem with the west coast and Skye when it's like that is not only can it hamper or prevent things like walks, but it can also make the scenery vanish. "I hear the Old Man of Storr is just up there. Pity."

2. Smoo Cave. It's great but it's a mighty long schlep from Skye. And again, in early-mid May (I'd place you there around the 12th - 13th if my count is right) you might find yourselves leaning into the (wet) wind. Also in May there isn't much open along the northwest and north coast; Durness, bless its heart, is pretty bleak even on good days.

3. Highland games and zigzags. I looked up the dates for the Gordon Castle Highland Games and they take place on the 20th and 21st, Saturday and Sunday. Does your flight home leave on the 21st? The reason for asking is twofold: first, according to the schedule there aren’t any traditional competitions taking place on the Saturday (no caber tossing, rock flinging, etc.) There will be dog races and swing music and a food court, but the actual sporting events will be taking place on the Sunday. If that’s the day you’re flying home, you’re out of luck.

Now, if your flight is on Monday, then you could see some/most of the Sunday activities at Gordon Castle, but regardless, leaving in the afternoon and driving all the way to Glasgow, diagonally across the country, is – in my mind – a terrible idea on a weekend. Instead of driving back to Glasgow I’d look at dropping off the car in Inverness and taking the train to Glasgow. As a rule you won’t be hit with a one-way or drop-off fee on the car, and the train will be much quicker than driving. You could spend the night somewhere in Glasgow and have an easy fly-away day.

So learning the specific details of your calendar is a priority; it could possibly change your whole plan. Or, who knows, maybe the whole thing could be shifted back a week (probably a change fee for the air tickets but it might be tolerable) which could make for a very different itinerary.

I’m just going to throw out a couple of ideas as teasers or as ideas for you to research and discuss. First, think about swapping Mull, Iona and Staffa for Skye. Look up Fingal’s Cave as a stand-in for Smoo, and Duart Castle for Eilean Donan. Look up the Tobermory or Oban distilleries in lieu of Talisker.

Then, if you still wanted to visit the northwest (Smoo Cave etc.) think about a long but quite interesting day trip from Inverness or somewhere nearby. Here’s a loop I did out of Inverness a couple of years ago - http://goo.gl/maps/0B0tx - commemorated in this mini trip report - http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...n-scotland.cfm . If you weren’t interested in Croick and the Clearances, you could omit that side-trip and add Smoo Cave, something like this: https://goo.gl/maps/fJYaxkS1QPP2 and travel through some of the loneliest, and to me, some of the loveliest, country in Scotland. It’s a long day but a very rewarding one.

Just some thoughts…
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Old Feb 1st, 2017, 06:57 AM
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Thank you all for these great responses - it's already making a huge difference in my thinking about our itinerary!

It's funny because we originally had 2 nights in the Trossachs and 2 in Glencoe and I made a last-minute change... and then janisj, you liked it the original way : ) And thanks for the suggestion about the Hilton in Ballater - I'm checking it out.

I know that we're booking this trip quite late (some of my hubby's work travel plans changed and so this one became possible for this year), but I was hoping that May was low enough season that we'd be okay on lodging. It seems that both the Clachaig Inn and the Sligachan are booked : ( The Clachaig has a room for one of our nights, but not both. I'm assuming that it's not worth it to take it for one night and then move for the other... Any other suggestions for lodging in the Glencoe area? As for Skye, we're looking into renting a cottage of some sort. We have a few options for the location of cottage - there's one in Kyleakin, one in Satran at the head of Loch Harport, and one on the Waternish Peninsula. Or should we book a hotel in Portree?

We absolutely will take out the second distillery - don't have to twist my arm : )

As for the Edinburgh suggestions, I know, 1.5 days in Edinburgh doesn't seem like a ton... we just have so many other things that we want to do! I do know that the city probably warrants at least a week!

mku4440 - great to hear that your two boys loved Scotland! Ours are getting pretty darn excited as we get into planning! I will keep the tip about Stirling Castle as the itinerary takes shape here...

historytraveller - we definitely may stay in Ullapool (does everyone think that is a good place to stay for that night on our way up the coast?). Please pass along that hotel rec.

GemmaRose - awesome tips about hiking - thanks so much! Really practical stuff. I'd love to hear more about any hikes that people recommend!

Gardyloo - please don't worry about "raining on our parade" : ) These practical reality checks are why these forums are so awesome. I know that it's May and the weather isn't going to be great. We had hoped to go in June, but again, the hubby's work travel got in the way and so May it is. I'm hoping that it all works out (we've spent a lot of time on the west coast in North America and so we know exactly how easily you can get wet/foggy/soggy weather). The problem is that these are places that I've been dreaming of forever and I'm just not sure that I can forego seeing them for fear of the weather. I know that may sound ridiculous. I've given the Mull-over-Skye option some real consideration, but I just don't think I can leave my trip to Scotland without seeing Skye. I know there's been a lot of debate about this on here!

Smoo Cave has a real draw for us (it's a long, personal story!) and so we just figure that if it's a 3-4 hour drive, it's totally worth it. But I know that it may be dreary. We did a cross-Canada trip once and the northern section of Northwest Territories can be that same type of bleak... so I know what we might arrive to. Which I guess is why we are going to go, but not spend too much time up there : )

As for the Highland Games, thanks for giving all that so much thought! Sorry that I wasn't clearer. Yes, our flight out is on the 22nd and so we would be able to be there for the "true games" on the 22nd. I had actually contacted Gordon Castle, so that I understood what activities were on each day... It's definitely the 21st that we're interested in (which is too bad, because it's our son's 10th birthday on the 20th and it would have been a cool way to celebrate).

I know that that last leg (with the trip to the east) seems a bit weird. And we just weren't sure how to make it work, given the Highland Games situation.

But actually, we haven't booked our airfare yet - and so all of your suggestions really could have a big impact. We had decided on our flights (the ones I listed above) a while ago because we found direct flights (which we love of course) and we thought the timing sounded really good. But now, even though our actual flying dates are set in stone, we're actually starting to re-think the actual flights...

A question: how would we get from the Glasgow Airport to Edinburgh? We can't seem to find train info to get us to Edinburgh Airport? Or would we have to take a train into downtown Edinburgh? And then where would we get our car a few days later? Would we have to go to the airport or is there a better/more convenient location?

All of this to say... that we're now thinking of maybe taking non-direct flights (with a few hours of stopover in London each way) to get us better flights. We could fly directly to Edinburgh (arriving at 2:30pm on that Day 2) and then we could even fly out of Aberdeen (which would save that drive down to Glasgow), leaving at 11:30am on that Day 18. What do you guys think? Is the savings in driving time worth the time in stopovers?

Thanks again for all your help! I just love all of you for your dedication to travel and to helping others...

Jenn
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Old Feb 1st, 2017, 07:31 AM
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Getting from Glasgow airport to Edinburgh is frankly a pain. You'd need to take a bus to Queen Street Station in central Glasgow, then ride the train to Edinburgh. There's also a one-stop bus service. There are no train connections to either EDI or GLA, although there's a tram that now runs from Edinburgh airport to the middle of things.

So for your flying plan, frankly I'd look at flying into EDI and out of ABZ. It would simplify things hugely, and there are lots of easy connection options in both directions - Iceland, Dublin, Amsterdam... From EDI take a cab or the tram into town, but pick up the car back at the airport when it's time to head out on the road.

I totally get the idea of staying true to your aims, and far be it from me to suggest otherwise. By all means visit Skye and look for Viking treasure in Smoo Cave. But do me a favo(u)r and add a drive down Glen Etive (and back) en route to Glen Coe, and if you drive north from Skye to Durness, stop at Inverewe Gardens if there's time at all, just so you can say you saw palm trees in Scotland. (There are some along the water in Plockton, too.)

But also be open to on-the-fly modifications based on weather or circumstances. As North Americans you may well have a different sense of what constitutes a "long day on the road" than the locals, and by mid-May you'll be getting some long daylight hours (probably 5 AM to 9:30 PM plus gloaming) so you can keep on truckin'. And you're probably not going to encounter overbooked lodging situations in too many places if you need to wing it.

Happy planning!
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Old Feb 1st, 2017, 07:39 AM
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Bookmarking. Thanks for all the info, everyone
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Old Feb 1st, 2017, 08:19 AM
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Thanks gardyloo! Funny, I was going to ask out about daylight hours, but then figured I probably shouldn't be lazy and should just look it up! I hadn't yet - so I'm thrilled to see the 5am - 9:30pm range, that's fantastic! We're not usually the earliest of risers (although we can be while traveling if need be), but we definitely do like to keep moving! As my sons just said, "Mom, we're the only people we know who spent 18 days in Hawaii and didn't really just sit on the beach once!" : ) We're so lucky that they put up with and enjoy our adventures!

Glen Etive is absolutely on the docket. We saw a hike there that we really want to do and so we'll spend some time.

I'd like to book our flights by tomorrow if possible, so any further opinions are appreciated. Gardyloo, thanks for explaining the troubles getting from GLA to EDI. Actually, when I originally found those flights, I figured that we'd explore Edinburgh at the end of the trip, before heading back to Glasgow for our flight home - but then the Gordon Castle Highland Games option presented itself and changed the end of the trip (meaning that I put exploring Edinburgh at the beginning of the trip instead). And then, I'd read about a 50min train ride, and so for some reason, I'd thought it was simple. Now that I know it's not, I think the stopovers sound preferable!

I'm hoping that posters have some opinions on where we should stay on Skye. janisj, I know you've mentioned that staying central is ideal, but unfortunately we just don't have that option available to us, and I'm not sure where else would be best.

I'm busy researching away. Hope to hear back from more of you soon, and I'll send out a revised itinerary for comment.

Thanks!
Jenn
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Old Feb 1st, 2017, 08:51 AM
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Nut problem; firstly nuts are not a big part of the trad Scottish diet.

But, there will be nuts in bars

there will be nuts on planes

and, Italian icecream (big migration in the 1940s) and Indian food (which is normally Kashmeri and Bangladshi) often have nuts in them or used in the same kitchen.

Other than that you will bump into them in less likely restaurants such as Thai, but outside of Edin and Glas that is very very unlikely.

So, I'd not worry, and just recently an Indian restaurant owner in the UK has bene put in jail for failing to check that he had nuts in a dish. http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-36360111 so it is taken very seriously.
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Old Feb 1st, 2017, 08:56 AM
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bilboburglar - thank you so much for taking the time to answer about the nut issue. It really is one that sometimes still gives me pause about traveling (particularly because we tend to travel to remote places). I had done a little bit of research before even thinking of Scotland and I'm so glad to hear you state that nuts aren't a big part of the traditional diet. My worry is/was that perhaps there would be a contamination with nuts in the baking of bread or the crusts of traditional pies? Here in North America, bakeries use tons of nuts and so everything is cross-contaminated and unsafe for those with nut allergies. I'm hoping that because we'll be visiting a lot of ma n' pa type places that cook everything from scratch that this won't be a huge issue...? I'm now going to read that article - interesting stuff!
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Old Feb 1st, 2017, 08:57 AM
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Oh and a few more Qs re itinerary --

Any other suggestions about where to stay in Glencoe (given that the Clachaig is booked? Very sad about that...).

Plus has anyone stayed at the Smoo Cave Hotel in the north? It looks simple, but may be just fine for our needs. If not, any other suggestions for where to stay up there?
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Old Feb 1st, 2017, 09:12 AM
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Even little bakeries will make cakes etc but nuts will be relativly low usage or none at all. That does not, stop cross contamination as I'm sure you will know, but there are not lots of nuts there compared with sugar and fat (which is very much part of the diet).

This may help http://www.taste-of-scotland.com/sco...eadsplate.html
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Old Feb 1st, 2017, 09:22 AM
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>>I know that it's May and the weather isn't going to be great. We had hoped to go in June, but again, the hubby's work travel got in the way and so May it is. >And then where would we get our car a few days later? Would we have to go to the airport or is there a better/more convenient location?
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