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13 days - Paris, Loire and Provence

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13 days - Paris, Loire and Provence

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Old Apr 9th, 2010, 05:56 PM
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13 days - Paris, Loire and Provence

Hi everyone,

Yay! We will be in France, flying in and out of Paris, from May 13-27th for 13 days excluding flight time. We are in our early 30's and love Paris, art, gardens, food and architecture. We prefer to travel at a leisurely place staying in a few places. We would like to spend time in Paris, visit the chateau's in the Loire Valley and spend a couple relaxing days in Provence.

Logistically and weather wise, is it better to go to Loire Valley first (3 days), back to Paris to train to Provence (5 days?) and then stay in Paris (5 days?) at the end of the trip? I do have Stu's Provence guide, but haven't read through it all yet. Any opinions on how many days in each place? I read yk's trip report on 3 days in Loire and lots of chateau's, wondering if 3 days is too rushed for all of the chateau's? How many days would be good in Provence?

While in Paris we would like to take a trip to Monet's garden.

I'm still reading and researching but any guidance would be greatly appreciated.
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Old Apr 10th, 2010, 12:15 AM
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Originally we were just thinking of Paris and Provence, but then I saw yk's report and would really love to visit the Loire valley and all of its chateau's. Is it too much traveling all over the place if we try to do Loire and Provence?

Also, we would love to see the French Open. Is it better to buy tickets online and if so where? or just show up and buy general admission?

Thanks again.
Cheers,
~appletea
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Old Apr 10th, 2010, 04:44 AM
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Logistically, all can be done in 13 (12) days but if, as you say, you prefer to travel at a leisurely pace, you might want to consider only Paris and Provence. The trip from Paris to Provence (Avignon) by train is easy. You will probably want a car when you get there as Provence is difficult to see without one. The reason I suggest Provence rather than the Loire is that you need only 2 or 3 days to visit chateaux

If you haven't been to France before, splitting your time between Paris and Provence will allow you to see and enjoy both. Since you want to see the French Open and Giverny, you have only about 4 days left for Paris. Not nearly enough! Sounds like a marvelous trip> Enjoy!
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Old Apr 10th, 2010, 05:24 AM
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One choice for the French Open is to buy evening tickets on site - this is a very cheap option which we used a couple of years ago. And Provence - so much to see and do that our 10 days last year barely scratched the surface, as you can see in our phototravelogue at http://www.kodakgallery.com/gallery/...08%3A540606391
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Old Apr 10th, 2010, 06:51 AM
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Personally, I wouldn't skip the Loire. I absolutely loved that region and would go there again in a heartbeat. If you click on my profile, you can read my trip report (I think it's called France, Belgium, Netherlands trip report), which details our time in the Loire. We took the train from Paris to Tours, rented a car in Tours (the Avis car rental is at the train station-- couldn't be easier) and took off from there. We spent 1 night in Saumur and 2 in Amboise (at Chateau des Ormeaux, which was *amazing*) and were able to cover a lot of ground and see many chateaux without feeling rushed. If you love gardens, art and architecture, don't miss the Loire.

As for the logistics, the train from Paris to Tours isn't long, but once in Loire it's a long drive to Provence or a couple of connecting train rides. It might be easiest to return to Paris and then take the TGV to Provence, which is only like 2-3 hours. How about something like this:

Day 1- Arrive Paris, overnight
Day 2- Train to Tours, rent car
Day 3- Loire
Day 4- Loire
Day 5- Train to Paris
Day 6- Paris
Day 7- Paris
Day 8- Paris
Day 9- Paris
Day 10- TGV to Provence
Day 11- Provence
Day 12- Provence
Day 13- TGV to Paris, depart

If your flight to Paris arrives early enough on Day 1, you could just go straight to the Loire without taking the night in Paris. Personal choice. Good luck!
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Old Apr 10th, 2010, 07:27 AM
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You don't have to return to Paris to take the train to Avignon. You can catch the TGV at Tours.
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Old Apr 10th, 2010, 08:32 AM
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Like StCirq mentioned, there is a 2:30 no-train-change TGV that goes from St Pierre des Corps (Tours) to the Avignon TGV station - arriving at 6:46 (may be a different schedule on weekends - I didn't check).

Of all the many many many places we stayed for 2 weeks or longer in France, the Loire countryside was the least scenic, IMO. We were just there last year for about the 6th time (we love Chateaux). I think 2 1/2 days there is fine. I wouldn't bother seeing the countryside, just visit the Chateaux & the gardens at Villandry - then take the afternoon train to Provence. I would visit Provence last - so that you stand the better chance of getting good weather. It doesn't matter what the weather is like inside a chateau, and Paris is great in any weather.

So, I would do:
1 land in Paris
2 Paris
3 Paris
4 Paris
5 Paris
6 Morning train to Loire
7 Loire
8 Loire in am, afternoon train to Provence
9 Provence
10 Provence
11 Provence
12 Provence
13 Provence in am. Late train to Gare du Nord in Paris. Dinner at Train Bleu at the Gare (fabulous interior - don't miss)
14 Fly home

Stu Dudley
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Old Apr 10th, 2010, 08:36 AM
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I agree with Stu that the Loire is one of the least scenic areas in all of France. It has its merits, of course, but scenery isn't its finest attribute.
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Old Apr 11th, 2010, 01:47 AM
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Thank you all for your replies. We visited Paris a couple years ago for 5 days and loved it so much we didn't have enough time to leave to go to see Versailles. After reading all of your suggestions, we are thinking:

Day 1- arrive Paris 8:30am
Day 2 - day trip to Giverny or versailles? will giverny be better in late May?
Day 3 - 5 - Loire Valley
Day 5 - 10 - Provence
Day 11-14 - Paris - french open starts the 23rd, maybe giverny?

a few questions:
Loire Valley - thanks Erin, I read your trip report and inquired with the B&B you stayed at. sounds lovely.
1) Do you think 2 nights is enough in the Loire valley?
2) How many chateau's can one realistically see in one day without rushing through it? I think we definitely want to visit Chambord, Villandry, Chenenceau, clos luce and maybe usse and cheverny?
3) Are there any special concerts at these chateau's?
4) Do you recommend taking the train to Tours and then renting a car to get from chateau to chateau?

Sunday - is there more to do on a Sunday in Paris or Provence? debating whether to go back to Paris one day earlier because its a Sunday?

Provence - I haven't finished studying Stu's guide yet . . .
1) Since its May and lavender fields aren't in bloom, would it be worth it to drive to Simiiane la Rotonde and go to the lavender fields route? I love lavender.
2) If we wanted to stay in one place for 5-6 days, which area would you recommend?

How is Versailles compared to the chateau's in the Loire Valley? I don't want to get chateau'd out, but I am very interested.

Thanks again for all your help!
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Old Apr 11th, 2010, 05:21 AM
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Giverny is at its most beautiful in May. While Versailles is the biggest and most lavish, I would go to Giverny since you are planning to see so many chateaux in the Loire. And the chateaux in the Loire will be much less crowded than Versailles. We saw 2 or 3 a day - more is overload.

Both the Loire and Provence are best seen with a car. Take trains to Tours and Avignon and rent cars there.

As for Provence, take your guidance from Stu but we have stayed in St. Remy and just outside of Les Baux and found both locations to be very convenient to move around Provence. In Les Baux, the lavender was blooming in May in the gardens surrounding our hotel but not in the lavender fields.

Sounds like a lovely trip!
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Old Apr 11th, 2010, 07:36 AM
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>>a few questions:
1) Do you think 2 nights is enough in the Loire valley?<<
2) How many chateau's can one realistically see in one day without rushing through it? I think we definitely want to visit Chambord, Villandry, Chenenceau, clos luce and maybe usse and cheverny?<<

Two nights & 3 1/2 days will be fine if you just visit Chateaux & gardens
You'll be there near peak season, and Chenonceau & the most popular Chateaux in the central/east area will be crowded. Best to see both Chenonceau & Chambord as soon as they open in the am & just before closing in the PM. My wife & I don't get tired of Chateaux - we've easily visited 70 or so throughout France. But practically speaking, 3 maybe 4 is all you can really see & enjoy in a day. In many areas in France, many Chateaux close for lunch & have guided tours. We were in the western Loire for 1 week last year and visited around 6 Chateaux. I think most had guided tours & closed for lunch. However, I think Chenonceaux, Chambord, the gardens of Villandry, and most chateaux in the central & east section are open all day. Most have a "song & light" show in the evening - which is quite enjoyable.

>>3) Are there any special concerts at these chateau's?<<

Song & light shows in the evening

>>4) Do you recommend taking the train to Tours and then renting a car to get from chateau to chateau?<,

Absolutely - that's the only way you're going to see all the chateaux you want to visit in 2 nights & 3 1/2 days

>>Sunday - is there more to do on a Sunday in Paris or Provence? debating whether to go back to Paris one day earlier because its a Sunday?<,

We love Sundays in Paris because things are quiet & most shops are closed. The Marais is quite active (too active, IMO) and so is the Isle St Louis. We love walking the quays on Sunday

Provence is very enjoyable on Sunday also. The huge market in l'Isle sur la Sorgue is quite a treat. St Remy, Les Baux, Gordes, and Roussillon will be quite active on Sunday. Avignon, Arles, Nimes, Aix, Vaison, and Uzes will not.

>>Provence - I haven't finished studying Stu's guide yet . . .
1) Since its May and lavender fields aren't in bloom, would it be worth it to drive to Simiiane la Rotonde and go to the lavender fields route? I love lavender.<<

Lavender is not that interesting when it is not blooming. Do the lavender route last if you have the time - otherwise, save it for a later trip

>>2) If we wanted to stay in one place for 5-6 days, which area would you recommend?<<

St Remy if you want to stay in a village where you can dine, sit at cafes, & wander around. However, St Remy is rathar dead at night compared to Avignon or Arles (except for dining). If you want to stay in the countryside & surrounded by vineyards, olive trees, budding lavender - find a place near Gordes, Roussillon, or Bonnieux in the Luberon. You'll have to drive to dinner most nights, however.


>>How is Versailles compared to the chateau's in the Loire Valley? I don't want to get chateau'd out, but I am very interested.<,

More extravagant & massive. I wouldn't miss it. Perhaps visit Versailles, and only spend 2 full days in the Loire.

My wife & I are not fans of Giverny. Not our style of gardens (wild English style). We much preferred Villandry (ordered Italian/French style). Not Monet fans either.

Stu Dudley
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Old Apr 11th, 2010, 09:02 AM
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We have taken the train to The Loire on 2 different trips. Once the local (slower) train to Tours to stay near Amboise for the Eastern Loire (Chambord, Chennonceaux, etc.) and once the TGV to Esprit de Corps (just outside of Tours as the TGV does not stop at the Tours station)to stay near Chinon for the Western Loire (Villandry, Uze, etc.)

IMO, the TGV was a much better choice. Both places were very easy to pick up a car (but watch your arrival time, as they both close for lunch). Both stations were easy to drive on from.

From either station for a short trip I would stay near Amboise for a central location.
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Old Apr 11th, 2010, 09:18 AM
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I have not been to Provence, but I think to try to do all 3 and relax as you say you would like, would be hard. We spent two weeks one year; half in Paris and half in the Loire and that was a good amount of time for 2 of them. The Loire Valley is really quite large and the chateaux are spread out. Also, the pace is much more relaxed than Paris, so you really don't feel like being on the go all the time.

We took the TGV to Tours which took about an hour. We reserved the tickets on the SNCF website before we left and also rented the car on that website for the Avis outlet in the Tours train station. Actually, at that time, that website had the cheapest rate for the car rental. Everyone else has given you great information, so I won't say much more. However, a great place to stay in the Loire is La Roseraie in Chenonceaux. The hotel is about 3/4 mile from the chateau, which for some reason does not have the x in its name. La Roseraie is great and I am sure you can find many reviews about how special it is. We used it as our base and drove around the valley and enjoyed it at a leisurely pace.
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Old Apr 11th, 2010, 10:00 AM
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You cannot even begin to see all the chateaux in 3 days. We spend 6 nights in Chinon and with a rental car seeing 2 a day is a brisk but reasonable pace. Seeing more than that is not really possible - and there are a host of chateaux, towns to explore, historic abbeys etc - so 3 days is just a taste of the Loire.

So - I would do either Paris and the Loire or Paris and some of Provence - doing all 3 will mean a lot of driving (you can train from one area to another, but will need a car to really explore either the Loire or Provence).

If you decide to stay in the Loire I reco staying in one of the private chateaux for a wonderful experience. We stayd at the Chateau des Reaux near Chinon (original 15th century), which had wonderful hosts, a loto to do within easy reach (including several of the sone et lumiere evening performances) and offered dinner en famille several nights per week. We joined a group of other Americans, Canadians, Argentinians and a couple from Russia. A most fascinating dinner.
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Old Apr 11th, 2010, 11:26 AM
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>>You cannot even begin to see all the chateaux in 3 days<<

I don't think anyone is proposing that the OP tries to see "all" the Chateaux - that would take a couple of months. We each have our own chateaux "threshold" - but I think visiting about 5-7 in 2 1/2 days is reasonable.

I enjoy the cities & villages in Provence much more than I enjoy those in the Loire. Tours is at the bottom of my list, and Aix & Avignon are in the top 6.

Stu Dudley
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Old Apr 11th, 2010, 12:11 PM
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OK Stu, I've been wondering this for awhile as you've dropped hints about your preferences on various threads. What is your loose ranking of your top 10 favorite cities after Paris?

From your previous posts, my guess is that it might start off something like this:

Dijon
Nice
Toulouse
Avignon
Aix
Lyon?

I'm not sure after that at all and I may have Dijon & Nice mixed up.
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Old Apr 11th, 2010, 12:21 PM
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Favorite Cities and Villages in France

What we like:
We are building architecture buffs – old architecture – not new. We also like to see lots of pedestrian-only streets, outdoor markets, non-touristy shops, & outdoor cafes. We typically don’t go to many museums, so cities get “no points” for having museums. Also, churches don’t give a city extra points. When ordering these cities, we did not consider the “setting” of a city, like the beach at Nice or the lake at Annecy.

Cities with a population greater than 85,000

1. Paris
2. Dijon
3. Toulouse
4. Rennes
5. Strasbourg
6. Avignon
7. Aix-en-Provence
8. Rouen
9. Montpellier
10. Lyon
11. Nice
12. Nancy
13. Bescancon
14. Bordeaux
15. Nantes
16. Marseille
17. Perpignan
18. Tours

Cities with a population greater than 10,000 but less than 85,000
1. Sarlat
2. Colmar
3. Beaune
4. Auxerre
5. Chambery
6. Vannes
7. Annecy
8. Troyes
9. Albi
10. La Rochelle
11. Figeac
12. Perigueux
13. Arles
14. Bourges
15. Dinan
16. St Malo
17. Quimper

Stu Dudley
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Old Apr 11th, 2010, 03:00 PM
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Thank you all for taking the time to read and respond. We truly appreciate it.

Ideally this is moving a bit more than we would like, but we really want to see the chateau's. We definitely don't plan on seeing all the chateau's but would like to see maybe 5-7 max as Stu said.

Another idea would be to go to Loire first day we land and then Provence and end in Paris to move around less. I know Stu recommended to try to go to Provence as close to the end of May as possible, but maybe this would make it less hectic? Any comments on this? Can you get from CDG airport to Tours easily? We land at 8:30 am, but then we might be jetlagged and could probably realistically see 1 chateau on the first day, meaning we would have to extend Loire one more day?

Day 1-3 - Loire
Day 4-9 - Provence
Day 9-14 - Paris

or maybe:
Day 1-3 - Paris to settle in and see Giverny and maybe Versailles
Day 4-6 - Loire
Day 6-11 - Provence
Day 12-14 - Paris - french open

For 2.5 days would Ambroise be a good base? I was reading that there is a lot of traffic if you base in Tours. Another thread said Ambroise has a lot of traffic too. We would prefer to stay in a chateau like hotel. Budget is 200 Eur a night, but flexible. Are there lots of cats in these areas? I also read for 2 nights Chinon is a farther base to visit chambord and villandry.

Btw, nice list, Stu. Will definitely have to put those on our list for "some day."

Thank you so much!
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Old Apr 11th, 2010, 03:04 PM
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2 more questions

Weather in Provence - does better weather for Provence mean less rain and not as windy? I tried to look up the historical weather for Provence but it looked like upper 60's and low 70's. Is it difficult to enjoy Provence in the rain? Sounds like it might still be romantic. =)

Traffic in Loire - does bad traffic mean it will take an hour to get to the chateau's from Tours or Ambroise even though it's normally a 15 min drive? I'm from Los Angeles, so just want to get a perspective on what bad traffic is. Thanks.
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Old Apr 11th, 2010, 03:22 PM
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Also, if good food is very important to us, is Ambroise a good base for that compared to the other areas like Chinon or Chenonceaux and Tours? Or regardless, will you have to drive to go to dinner, so it won't matter? We don't really mind a 10-15 min drive for dinner but it would also be nice just to stroll to dinner.
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