10 nights in France

Old Apr 29th, 2016, 10:47 AM
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10 nights in France

I've loved the feedback in this forum, and am posting for the first time to get feedback specific to our trip. My husband and I are planning a 1st anniversary trip to France in October. We will have 10 nights. I have been to Paris before, 4 years ago; he has never been.

I have read so much about not cramming in too much, but Paris is a MUST, and we'd really love to get at a taste of Provence as well as the Cote d'Azur. I know we could spend weeks in each, but 10 nights is all we've got and do not forsee ourselves getting back here any time soon...so we'd really like to hit all 3. I'd most appreciate any helpful insight into how to maximize our time through efficient travel, etc....rather than arguments against hitting all 3 locations.

We are currently considering the following travel itinerary:
10/13 Fly out of Boston
10/14 Land in Nice; 3 nights stay in Nice;
10/17 Travel to Provence; stay 3 nights; base ourselves in the Luberon (perhaps St. Saturnin, per suggestion from Stu's itinerary!); we will rent a car.
10/20 Train to Paris; 4 nights in Paris
10/24 Fly back to Boston

A few specific questions:
*Mu husband is very interested in Marseille. Would you recommend a day trip from Provence, or cutting a night elsewhere to stay one night there? We are also open to flying into Marseille, if it makes the itinerary flow more smoothly.
*Travel from Nice-Provence. We were thinking train from Nice to Avignon or Aix, rent car, drive to base, return car to same spot before train to Paris. Is this the most efficient way to do it, or are we better to rent the car in Nice and drive to our base from there?
*If we were to spend 1 "day trip" from Nice, what would you suggest and why? We have already ruled out Monaco thanks to plenty of feedback on the forums!
*Would we do ourselves a disservice by not spending any time in Avignon or Aix? We envision the Provence leg as the "country" portion of the trip and the drives and meandering around villages sounds so much more appealing.
* Any recommendations for an romantic outing in any of these locations would be welcome! (Is it even possible for anything to NOT be romantic in France?)

As it seems this info is often requested.... our primary interests are food, wine, and simply taking in the scenery and culture. Our favorite thing to do on vacation is go for a drive or walk with no destination in mind, and see where we end up. I have been to many of the major museums in Paris and my husband is not insistent upon seeing them. Though we both appreciate art, it is not a focus for us on this trip. While we like to stay off the beaten path a bit, we of course are open to "must see" landmarks!

Thank you in advance for sharing your experiences and thoughts!
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Old Apr 29th, 2016, 11:44 AM
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either by train or car you could stop over in Marseille for a half day or so - enough to see the incredibly neat old town/port and end up in nearby Aix for the night - then go onto Avginon.

For train info check www.voyages-sncf.com or www.capitainetrain.com - same trains same fares - latter is said to be easier for Americans to use to book your own discounted tickets. For general info on trains (1st vs 2nd class, etc) check www.seat61.com - great info on discounted tickets; www.budgeteuropetravel.com and www.ricksteves.com.

One neat day trip from Nice I took by public transportation was to take a bus to Vence - an iconic hill town and then walked downhill thru rural settings a few miles at most to St-Paul-de-Vence, coming into town right where the famous Maeght Foundation is - one of the highlights of art on the Riviera - St Paul d V was an artists colony now turned to hopelessly crowded during season tourist town but it is still a gem.

http://www.fondation-maeght.com/en/

For art mavens in Nice take the bus or drive up to Cimiez, high above the city with views to kill - some Roman theatre remains and a few famous art museums.

https://www.google.com/webhp?sourcei...13231343909567

In Antibes - a short train ride from Nice you have the Picasso Museum in an old for on the sea. Antibes is a neat town that I would prefer to stay in rather than Nice, a huge metropolis.

https://www.google.com/webhp?sourcei...0picassomuseum

Don't miss in the Avignon area St-Remy-de-Provence and the asylum VanGogh committed himself to after slicing off his ear in nearby Arles - he painted copiously whilst here and the have erected copies of his many works executed here in the exact same place he painted them - a bucolic setting on the edge of St-Remy - a smaller town that many prefer to larger Avignon.
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Old Apr 29th, 2016, 12:52 PM
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I liked Marseille and you are short on time, but then you mention that while in Provence you don't intend to see any of the cities, just wander around the smaller roads and villages. Seems like you could easily cut a day out there IMO, two days of that should be enough. However, the first day is the most up in the air, so why not stay in Marseille instead of going to PRovence, you won't be doing much that day anyway, and you plan to take the train, after all.

You can get a train from Nice to Marseille in only about 2:30 hrs. Do that in the morning and you have the rest of the day and night there, spend overnight. Stay around the port for the hotel and lots of seafood restaurants around it--I loved the Grand Hotel Beauvau in Marseille, right near a metro stop and the port. Not far from the train station, either, by taxi or metro if you want.

Then rent a car at the Marseille train station to pick up the next day and go to Provence. I've rented there, it is fairly easy to drive out of Marseille from that location, actually, you just about get right on the main route north to Aix or Cavaillon just around the corner from it (the A7, which splits off into A7 and A51). YOu can return the car at Avignon TGV if you want, that's what I did, also (Europcar, that's fine with them). In fact, it's probably not that much farther to get to St Saturnin from Marseille as from Avignon TGV station (it's only about a 1:30 hr drive from Marseille), especially in time as that TGV station is on the west side of Avignon and you'll have to get through or around it somehow (the N7 I suppose). If you drive up north from Marseille, it is scenic as you can go through the Luberon to some extent, and you can see Lourmarin on the way, also.

I just don't see a reason to go to Aix for one night from Marseille instead of just staying in Marseille, given Marseille is what your husband is very interested in and it is a big city so trying to breeze through it in an hour or two won't be very satisfying.
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Old Apr 29th, 2016, 12:58 PM
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Your itinerary is fine - leave it alone. No day-trips anywhere from Nice. Three nights in Nice is really only 2 1/2 days. I certainly would skip Marseille also - too time-consuming and you don't have much time.

I would drive from Nice to St Saturnin, instead of taking the train to the Avignon TGV station and then driving to St Saturnin. The drive is somewhat scenic past at the St Tropez exit and once you get off the AutoRoute & pass Aix. Driving is 3 1/4 hrs, and train is 3 1/2 hrs + 1 1/4 hrs to St Saturnin from the Avignon TGV station. If you drive, stop Lourmarin for an a visit on the way to St Saturnin. Normally, I would suggest a stop in Aix - but the 17th is a Monday & most of the shops will be closed on Monday morning & won't open again until 3PM or so. Even then - some will still be closed. Read the first paragraph of page 2 of my itinerary for specific info about stores closed in Aix on Sundays & Monday mornings.

Stu Dudley
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Old Apr 30th, 2016, 06:24 AM
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I certainly would skip Marseille also - too time-consuming and you don't have much time.>

but that is a priority of one member so time should revolve around that and not what we think is better.

And I don't agree that Marseille is a waste of time - it is a very unique city in many ways and in the old port area really nice.

I would not necessarily spent the night there but take a few-hour look en route to Aix - easy to do get off the train - put bags in locker and stroll around the old port area.
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Old Apr 30th, 2016, 06:31 AM
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We have never been able to find Marseille appealing.
We must go with our neighbours who have promised to let us see the real Marseille.
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Old Apr 30th, 2016, 07:21 AM
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This is the "real" Marseille and shows why Marseille is unique (without irony):

http://www.moderndesign.org/2012/04/...marseille.html
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Old Apr 30th, 2016, 07:38 AM
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My opinion of Marseilles is more in line with Whathello's. Same opinion from our close friends who went there last year. Too much if it was bombed by Germany in WWII to "wipe-out" Jews waiting to escape "elsewhere". Those parts are a little shabby now, IMO. Compared to Aix, Avignon, Montpellier, Toulouse and other large "southern" cities - I think Marseille is a "B-".

If I read between the lines - this might be hubby's first trip to Europe. On my first trip to Europe as a newlywed, many of my "must sees" turned out to be "duds". I just didn't do adequate research ahead of our trip (no internet then, & guide books were more focused on "where to stay" & not on "what to see"). Unless hubby has done a lot of research, or there is something specifically that attracts him to Marseille - I would think real hard about adding another hotel and destination into this short 10 night trip. If this was my trip, I would make the "Marseille or not" decision on the last day in Provence, and do it as a day trip from Provence (which we've done) if it still appeals. Also, the OP will be in France in mid October. Marseille is farther north than Boston - actually close to the latitude of Portland Maine. The Med keeps things warmer - but lunch or dinner outside on the Port in Marseille might not be as enjoyable as having a meal outside in May through Sept. We were in Provence once during the first week of October, and I scraped ice off the windshield of my car each morning.

Stu Dudley
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Old May 1st, 2016, 02:13 PM
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I spent some days in Marseille years ago (whilst applying for the French Foreign Legion, HQ'd here) before the Vieux-Port area was cleaned up and and at that time I thought 'this is a really unique and interesting historical place, warts and all.

It is not your all gussied up city like Avignon or Arles or any Riviera city and I can see where this will turn some folks or many folks off.

Oh well as the French say "A chacun son gout" (or is ti Chacun a son gout? (StCirq help me out!). anyway each to their own taste. Give me a Marseille over most similar sized cities in France, which I generally find dull - the more north you go the duller large French cities are IMO (excepting Paree bien sur!)

Marseille is so ethnically diverse-- the foods show that and districts have a real ethnic feel which I like.
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Old May 1st, 2016, 03:13 PM
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Just an small point for others who may happen upon this thread [not saying anyone already posting on this]

There are several communes in France that are also Saint Saturnin.

The full name is Saint-Saturnin-lès-Apt.

Back to the regularly scheduled programming...
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Old May 2nd, 2016, 02:10 AM
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It's à chacun son gout, Pal

I really like Marseille, but I fully understand why others don't, particularly Americans who want everything polished and pretty and mall-like. I find it a bit "gritty." I like "gritty." It's real. In 2013 it was awarded Cultural Capital of Europe, for what that's worth. Yes, it has garbage strikes, and there's laundry hanging over the alleyways, and beefy no-good sailors trolling the wharves, and food smells and old ladies in black garb hanging out in front of their narrow-alley hideaways, and a sense that trouble could erupt any minute, but isn't that more interesting than trawling the market stands of St-Rémy looking for the perfect boutie? To me, it is, but it's not for the faint of heart.
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Old May 2nd, 2016, 08:10 AM
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Marseille is the Naples of Europe (I love Naples for the same reasons StCirq gives for Marseille.
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Old May 2nd, 2016, 09:08 AM
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Naples gets a big thumbs-up from me, too.
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Old May 2nd, 2016, 10:27 AM
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May I kindly suggest that you look at a map of Provence? It's a huge region, of which the Côte d'Azur is the eastern end, bordering on Monaco. Marseille is in Provence as well.
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Old May 2nd, 2016, 11:02 AM
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Marseille is the Naples of Europe>

Oops meant Marseille is the Naples of France!
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Old May 4th, 2016, 06:17 AM
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Thank you all so much for your thoughtful responses - we really appreciate it and found all of it to be quite helpful.

We've decided we really want to dedicate time to Marseille. For those wondering why my husband is interested, he is in the seafood business. The bouillabaisse alone is reason enough to spend a night! We don't mind the grit and tend to prefer things that are NOT on "must see" lists, so I'll think we'll enjoy the short time there. @christina, we are strongly considering your hotel rec, thanks!

With regards to our other 2 nights in Provence... (@Underhill, good point - I am referring to the stereotypical "Provence" ...rolling hills, hill towns, and lavender fields - though not in october, bien sur.)

We are thinking of basing in Saint-Saturnin-Les-Apt, but would love to hear any other suggestions? We'd like a central location to be able to take a few nice drives and, ideally, stay in a B&B in the country.

Thank you all again! I am in awe of how many people are willing to offer their experience ad advice. Much appreciated.
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Old May 4th, 2016, 07:25 AM
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We don't mind the grit and tend to prefer things that are NOT on "must see" lists>

You will not see much grit in the old town center and that not all the town is gussied up makes it rather more inviting to me. I once stayed at a youth hostel on the beach and the beach is as nice as any I saw along the Riviera coast.

enjoy and report back on what you found!
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