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Trip report: Viking Portraits of Southern France

Trip report: Viking Portraits of Southern France

Old Dec 9th, 2014, 10:04 AM
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Trip report: Viking Portraits of Southern France

My wife and I took this cruise on the Viking Heimdal in November 2014. We had been following weather reports from the Rhone Valley and were wary of flooding in the area. Viking insisted, however, in response to our inquiry that everything was projected to be normal. This was far from the case, however, as we found out when we arrived in Avignon on 15 November in the evening.
The docks in Avignon were flooded and we were unable to board the Heimdal, nor were the passengers arriving there from the southbound cruise able to disembark. We were put up in a Novotel in Avignon which was reasonably good. The first of many meetings was held in which we were informed of pending changes in the itinerary. During this time we were treated to free drinks from the hotel bar. We quickly learned that free drinks = bad news from Viking as this was a recurring theme throughout the trip.
We had a rather late dinner, roast duck with sides, at a restaurant across from the Papal Palace, Le Lutrin, where we walked in masse in a group of about 50. There were two other groups of similar size which went to different restaurants.
The following morning we took a bus to Arles for a tour. While it was nice and we enjoyed Arles, there was no free time to look around on our own nor to shop. We had about 25 minutes at the Espace van Gogh—just enough time to use the bathroom, grab a coffee and buy postcards. This lack of free time and a chance to shop was a recurring theme throughout the week.
We were able to board the Heimdal when we returned from Arles but we would not be going anywhere by boat for a few days. The original itinerary called for arriving in Tarascon via the Heimdal that day but obviously that was not going to happen. There was a trip to Les Baux offered that afternoon but as it would involve a long bus ride, we skipped that. As we feared, our cruise was turning into a bus tour. We managed to avoid any long ones except one where we were misled and totally blindsided.
On Monday, 17 November we went to Chateauneuf du Pape by bus. That was fine since it is not far. We visited a winery for a tasting and did have time to buy wine in their shop. That was an interesting tour. Another meeting was called for 9:00 PM on the boat and cocktails were free. Yes, that meant bad news. There would be no movement due to flow rates on the Rhone so there was an all-day bus trip planned to Tarascon the next day. As it would be 4 hours on the bus, we opted out of that.
Then on Tuesday 18, November it was announced we would be leaving that morning. Then that was not going to be the case so they offered another all day bus tour, not to Tarascon but to a chocolate factory and winery instead. We nixed that idea too.
Tuesday, was our favorite day on the “cruise” as they were selling it. Since we opted out of the tour we had precious free time in the lovely city of Avignon and was really the only free time we had there. In the afternoon they offered a bus trip to Pont du Gard and we jumped on that as it was not on the original itinerary and we had been wanting to see it. It also is not far from Avignon, maybe 40 minutes. It was fantastic and we had a fabulous guide. There were also new tourist facilities there including clean, modern restrooms and nice shops. We loved it.
With every rose there is a thorn, as they say, and the next day was the worst of any experience we have ever had on any tour of any sort anywhere. It was completely avoidable and absolutely inexcusable for anyone in the tourist business to let alone come up with the plan, but then to have it approved. This soured me on Viking more than any single thing.
On Wednesday, 19 November it was determined that the ship could move through the lock at Chateauneuf du Pape but not carrying passengers. Thus we were all requested, more or less forced, to leave the boat and go to Aix-en-Provence via bus. Now Aix is a beautiful city and well worth seeing, but only as part of an all day trip. The way Viking did was unforgiveable. We were totally mislead as to what the trip would entail and how long we would be on the bus which would join the ship at Avignon.
We traveled for two hours from Avignon to Aix where we had one hour on the ground. The guide could not believe that they were asking her to give a tour of that length. Twenty minutes were spent waiting in line to use the very primitive toilets at city hall and the rest of the time in a mad dash to reach the meet up point with the bus. I felt badly for our poor guide as she obviously knew and loved her city. It was a horrible way to see that lovely gem.
What really got many fellow passengers riled was that there was a huge Christmas Market on Cours Mirabeau which there was no time to visit. We were under the impression that we were going to have shopping time in Aix but that apparently was a ruse to lure us on the bus. So we piled back on the busses for a trip of over two hours to Chateauneuf and the end of the worst tour experience we ever had.
As they could have simply remained in Avignon and allowed us free time there it would have been fine and a short bus ride to Chateauneuf. Why they did what they did is something that I cannot fathom. I have requested and explanation but they have not addressed my complaint. What were they thinking?!
We boarded the ship in the late afternoon and it departed that evening. Since we were cruising at night we saw little of the shore.
Thursday, 20 November. We cruised until reaching Vienne in the afternoon. We had a very good tour guide there and it is an interesting and lovely town. Again, though, we only had about 25 minutes free time and that was, obviously, not enough for any real shopping. The Viking ads are very misleading as there is nothing leisurely about their tours. Certainly not this one.
After Vienne we left for Lyon and arrived there in the evening where our abbreviated cruising ended. On Friday, 21 November we had a lame morning tour of Lyon. We visited the Marché Paul Bocuse which seemed silly since it is not a place where you cannot buy much of anything as it is mostly fresh foods. When the tour went to yet another cathedral we broke off and went to a café. It was warm enough to sit outside on the lovely terrace and have view of Lyon as we sipped our petits noirs. As we were docked at least two miles from the city center, this tour was by bus.
They did offer some bus tours that afternoon but we wanted no more of that after our experience in Aix so we walked around the areas around the boat. They had little to offer but it was a pleasant enough stroll.
We departed early in the AM on Saturday, 22 November for the long flights home. It was more a bus tour than a cruise and it was a very expensive, yet mediocre, experience. .
Now as to the Heimdal itself, it is a wonderful, comfortable ship which is kept spotless by its fine crew. The beds and staterooms were meticulously thought out and had plenty of electrical outlets of both North American and European currents. It was as fine a hotel as I’ve ever stayed in.
The chef was fabulous and the meals were always excellent, in some cases exquisite. The wait staff was just outstanding and I must praise them. So that part of the cruise experience was quite positive.
In all fairness, to Viking, the abominable day wasted going to Aix aside, cruising is not for us, at least as they do it. We would much rather spend time in a place and get to know it rather than dashing from one place to the next. Certainly without the weather disruptions our cruise would have been much better but not something we want to do again.
Viking did offer us 20% off a future cruise but that is not enough, IMO.
joe19 is offline  
Old Dec 10th, 2014, 03:26 AM
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Thanks for posting & sorry to hear you spent so much time on buses rather than sightseeing. I have read this does happen alot with river cruises.
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Old Dec 10th, 2014, 05:12 AM
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Rhea58, thanks. Talking to others, there do seem to be many things that can foul up a river cruise. I've heard of those where strikes have disrupted them as well as natural causes. Had we known what was going to take place in Aix as well as Lyon, we would have broken off from the ship. Apparently some people did that. I do know for certain of one who did. But I don't want to be too negative as we did enjoy our trip to France, particularly the pre-cruise stay in Nice which was wonderful. Had it not been for Aix I would have given them higher marks. Also, I would have opted to get a hotel in the center of Lyon rather than being docked far from there in an uninteresting area--at least for someone who is unfamiliar with it.
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Old Dec 10th, 2014, 09:11 AM
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We've been tempted to take a river cruise but after reading your(and many others) bad reviews we've taken off our travel list.
It always sounds like a nice idea floating from place to place. Then you hear stories like the one above plus others about docking one right next to each other and having to walk across the other boats to get ashore plus all the bus tours involved and it sounds very unenjoyable.
We love driving around the small towns of France and taking our time---I think we'll stick to that.

Thanks for posting your story.
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Old Dec 10th, 2014, 05:51 PM
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River cruises do have risks but it sounds as if Viking was less than open with the passengers. I haven't been on Viking in years but never went on a bus except perhaps at start and end of cruise.
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Old Dec 11th, 2014, 01:52 AM
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TPAYT - walking across other boats to reach shore is very common.
I was on a Danube cruise in May & we would sometimes be the 3rd boat rafted up. I don't see how this is a problem; in fact, one got to have a gander at other riverboats as we went ashore.
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Old Dec 18th, 2014, 08:01 PM
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Walking across and through other riverboats, getting s good look at them, made us appreciate our ship.
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Old Apr 6th, 2015, 03:30 PM
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My husband surprised me in 2013 by booking the "France's Finest" river cruise, departing in September of 2014, to celebrate our 40th wedding anniversary. He used funds we had been saving for a special trip for years. When we booked our trip they tried to sell us travel insurance, which we declined because the cost was ridiculous - $5,000.00. We did not foresee anything that would prohibit us from travelling.

In July, 2014 our 39 year old son suffered a stroke. He was in the neuro intensive care unit for three months. As it became apparent my son was too ill for us to leave town, we contacted them on several occasions asking what we could do to cancel our trip. They continued to send us to a customer service rep and refused to escalate to anyone higher. My son's neuro team wrote a summary of his illness and advised that because he was on a respirator there was no way we could leave town. In following up with them, they said they were sorry about my circumstances but there was nothing they could do. I never requested a refund, but merely wanted to be able to rebook the trip we had paid for
($22,000+) at a discount. They told us that would not be possible. My son died of complications from a brain tumor in October of 2014 and we were, and are, devastated.

Viking collected $22,000+, never spent a dime on us and refused to let us rebook at any discount. We recently sold our business and plan to do extensive cruising. Needless to say, it will not be with Viking. Several of our friends have cancelled their cruises as well in light of this company's total lack of compassion or empathy. Who tells a mother who is about to lose their son - sorry, nothing we can do? I think it's deplorable.
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Old Apr 10th, 2015, 07:11 AM
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We did not foresee anything that would prohibit us from travelling. People rarely do and now if you had spent that money...
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Old Apr 10th, 2015, 08:51 AM
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Lyanis, I am so very sorry for the tragic loss of your son. When you book a tour or a cruise, it is wise to take out trip insurance for unforseen reasons such as yours. And don't buy the insurance from the provider such as a cruise line; buy it direct from an insurance company. www.insuremytrip.com gives you the ability to obtain quotes from different companies. That $5000. quote was outrageous.
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Old Nov 12th, 2015, 12:17 PM
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Saving
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Old Nov 12th, 2015, 01:47 PM
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I hope posters like Lyanis6220 will come back for advice before booking other travel.
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Old Nov 23rd, 2015, 04:57 PM
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My husband and I are booked on Viking"s Portraits of Southern France with our wine club from July 24 to July 31, 2016. We depart from Avignon. Can you recommend a hotel in Avignon for the night prior to cruising?
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Old Nov 25th, 2015, 05:04 AM
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Hi StokenM - it's been several years but we enjoyed La Mirande. Also, the Hotel d'Europe gets good reviews. I don't know what your budget is - these are on the higher end. Have fun!
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