Tuxedocat

At long last, I have something new to say about St. John! After a long grueling 18 months, we finally returned to our little house in Coral Bay for a short five days. I must have been the only person happy it was hurricane season and we had to make sure the house was ready for what looks like a rough season. As it was, we caught the little bit of Fay as she swung past the Virgins. In someways, there has been some shocking changes. Being in the business, I know that development of some kind is inevitable, but it should and can be controlled carefully. Coming into the new, large and industrial feeling car ferry terminal, the view of Cruz Bay was bittersweet. It was like encountering a beloved friend who is difficult to recognize under a new facelift. Cruz Bay is no longer the quaint little village we first saw five years ago. There are some sizeable developments looming above the harbor. Grande Bay condo's are a blight on its beautiful face. Like a bad nose job, there was nothing wrong with the old one which had much more character. Sirenusa condo's has morphed into a "Hulk" version of its former self. The Westin has continued to expand, infecting the hillside like a concrete fungus. Because the island is 2/3 national park, the developable land is limited, so the projects are increasingly denser, jamming as many units as possible. Whether it's affordable or high luxury. We have an ill-conceived, congested "affordable" housing project springing up in Coral Bay. 72 units on about 4 acres of land. It's not about architecture and it's not about whether it's "affordable" housing (which means anything under $500,000. in STJ), it's just too many units in one place. So, the wild, untamed nature of the Coral Bay community will soon change. I suppose, it'll be more convenient with new stores and services. Less remote with the increase in population. But I couldn't help mourn what felt like the passing of another degree of Mother Nature's magic. On the third day, we decided to go to Cinnamon Bay. I love snorkeling around the little island. Everytime I put on my gear, I feel like a kid on Christmas morning. I never know if it'll be wonderful or another bag of coal. After feeling down about all the changes to the island, I wasn't expecting much. With the past few years of coral bleaching in the Caribbean, the reefs have not been as colorful or plentiful with fish. Some of you may recall that I have complained for years about never seeing a sea turtle. I've seen many other wonderful and rare denizens of the deep, but the turtle always eluded me. I seethed with envy everytime a poster reported with delight the sighting of turtles. This time, as I circled the cay and turned the corner back towards shore, having seen nothing more than the odd parrot fish, French angels, and a small barracuda... there he/she was! I could hardly believe my eyes! Rising slowly up from the ocean floor was a beautiful hawksbill turtle. Its shell was a bit less than 2 feet long but it seemed enormous to me (if you know what I mean). It eyed me warily but did not rush off and let me get pretty close. I was able to swim along and take a wonderful picture. Even before all the changes to STJ, I had not been lucky enough to happen upon a turtle. I took this beautiful surprise gift as a sign that there is still plenty of magic left in Mother Nature's St. John bag. As soon as I figure out how to attach the photo, I will share it with all of you. When we returned to our hectic lives in this challenging economy, my DH and I put copies of the turtle photo in several places as a symbol of hope and a reminder... something amazing might be just around the corner.

ejcrowe

Welcome back, Tux! I've missed your posts, and as sorry as I am read about the changes you found on St. John, I'm thrilled that you had your turtle moment. It really is magical, isn't it? May you have many more!

Pulley

Tuxedocat, I felt the same thing as we pulled up to the National Park dock. I'm not against development but it should be controlled. I thought Grnade Bay was the most grotesque thing I had seen until I saw Sirenusa. Who ever approved these projects should have their head examined. Can you image what traffic will be like on the island once the projects are completed. I also understand the development near Pine Peace School is supposed to be affordable, maybe for vacationers but not locals. My rant is done.

I'm so glad you got to see a turtle. We must have been on the island at the same time.

brenandg

Yay!! You finally found the elusive turtle!!! I agree, the development is alarming. We have watched it grow just since 2006. For now at least, STJ still hasn't lost it's charm for us. Did you see how they are developing the Ditleff Point area too?

Pulley

I read about Ditliff Point development & DP will always hold a special place in my heart. We were due to leave St. John on 09/11/2001. Of course we couldn't leave after what happened in New York & DC. My wife & her best friend were glued to the TV and after about 2 hours my friend & I had to get out the villa. We went to Ditliff Point, you could actually park there then, walked to the end, down to the beach and went snorkeling. It was surreal as the bay was calm and quiet and we knew that the US was in chaos. The quiet solitude was soothing in it's unique way. I've refused to go back to Ditliff Point since that day. I guess I have no choice now.

caribtraveler

That's great. Congratulations on finally seeing one!
P.S.: Reading about all the construction is disheartening.

tpatricco

Hey Tux, good to see you posting. I haven't been here myself in awhile but popped in today.

Yay! Finally a turtle for you!

So sorry to hear your reflections on the construction. We haven't been on island since May '06 (I know what is wrong with us?) work and life have been busy and it's a big world of destimations out there too...

We do have a special place in our hearts for STJ...so sad to hear about development in Coral Bay.