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Travelling in non-turistic Cuba?

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Hi, we (me and a friend) are planning to go to Cuba in November 97. As we are not interested in travelling all the way from Europe to the Carribean, just to get a tan, we would prefer a vacation outside the major turistic areas and resorts.
Anybody has any experience with travelling low-budget through the country? Any problems finding lodging, changing money, getting transport. Is it absolutely necessary to rent a car?
Anything that may help us would be more than welcome.
Thanks, Jan.

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