The Caves Trip Report

Old Dec 14th, 2003, 06:57 AM
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The Caves Trip Report

First off I would like to sincerely thank everyone on this board who was so helpful and so willing to answer all of my - seemingly endless - queries. Forgive the length of my report.
Within a day of our arrival it was agreed that our stay at the caves quite possibly surpassed every other hotel experience we have had in the islands.
We arrived and were met with drinks as we signed in at the reception cottage. We were asked what our food tastes were, our likes and dislikes, allergies, and if there was anything in particular we would like to be served during our stay. We had arrived at roughly 1:30pm and were asked if we would like to eat lunch before we toured the property and were brought to our room. We decided to have a bit of lunch and carried our drinks out into the property and sat down at one of the stone carved tables overlooking the sea. Nothing but horizon and clear water from where we sat. Our initial concern of course was "would we miss the beach." Afterall, we had come to the caribbean, what was such a vacation without a beach? One look at the beautiful crystal blue water beneath our lunch table and we knew we had no interest in the beach. I leaned over the side of the cliff wall and saw a series of stairways spread throughout the property leading to small private platforms for two where couples lounged with drinks, occasionally jumping into the water below. There are several jumping off points - from very high private platforms, to lounge areas no more than a foot above the water with a step ladder leading to the sea. The scene was reminiscent of Amalfi and the entire feeling was magical.

There are always at least two dishes to choose from, each one delicious, so most guests choose a tasting of everything. I can't recall specific meals but everything was simply wonderful.
After lunch - and roughly two 'cliffhangers', the house drink - we toured the property and were led to our room, Blue Dolphin.
While almost all of the cottages are bi-level structures with one unit below and one above, we expected that our ground floor room might be rife with noise from the guests above. Not so. The cottages are built with such heavy stone that noise is virtually impenetrable. In fact, the structures are built so as to seem completely separate. The entrances to each are very far from each other and hidden by foliage. It was only on our fourth say that we saw the couple above us - and we never heard them. The room itself was overwhelming, the atmosphere was very sexy. Dim red lighting and a bed carved from stone, a very large stone carved bathtub with stained glass windows. We had a well sized veranda that was hidden from passersby with thick foliage and flowers. There were two large seats and a table on the veranda where we spent hours drinking champagne and playing scrabble into the night by candlelight. We slept each night of our stay with the huge french doors open looking out to the veranda and never once had a problem with bugs or the lack of air conditioning.

We found a wonderfully secluded spot the next morning to lounge - a round stone platform carved into the cliff with a step ladder down into the water and a huge arch leading from our platform to the inside of a cave where they had installed a fresh water shower. We spent hours in the sun, swimming and washing off in our private outdoor shower.
In the evening the entire property is lit with candles. Candles are placed in your room, on all the dining tables, in the main bar area, and - most enchanting - lining all the walkways. Dinner is wonderfully casual, while we dressed in slacks and shirts I don't think either of us ever wore shoes. The atmosphere for dinner can be as social or as intimate as you choose. The tables in the dining pavilion are set up for two or four but there are several spread out around the property and essentially you can arrange to eat anywhere you like. We chose a very out of the way table set up overlooking the cliffs that was very secluded. Once again, the food was lovely. Thanksgiving itself was a wonderful jamaican spiced turkey and several other entrees.
There are two dining pavilions and two bars. The first is used during breakfast and lunch and the bar there is fully staffed until 11pm. The other on the left side of the property is used for evening dinner and has a self serve bar that it stocked and open 24 hours a day. It was more than once that my husband and I snuck in there for a late night glass of wine.
Because the property is rather large for the number of cottages it houses (enough for about 20 people at full capacity) you get the feeling that you are completely alone. The staff is impeccable, genuinely friendly and eager to help, everyone introduces themselves, learns your name and uses it regularly (so often a rarity in resorts) but no one is intrusive at any time. You are left absolutely alone unless your face gets a quizzical look and then suddenly, as if from nowhere, someone is smiling and asking if they can help you with anything. There is a true feeling of welcome here.
We had a couples massage in the spa hut - the view alone from the outside terrace is reason enough to book. We also booked a sunset jacuzzi as well as a cave dinner.
A few steps away from our cottage were stairs leading down the cliffs and to a room that juts out slightly from the rock. Inside is a very large jacuzzi tub with a huge picture window looking out over the water. They set the room for us with candles, rose petals, champagne and robes. It was lovely.
Our cave dinner was equally enchanting - flowers and candles set up all over the ledges of the cave and a stone table set up for dinner on a bed of petals. We had our own waiter who looked in on us from time to time and we sat and enjoyed the atmosphere and the waves lapping up beside us as we ate. You can jump into the water after dinner from where you sit and swim with tiny glowing fish on your back to the ladder on the other side of the cave.
We took a look at some of the other rooms - we had a cocktail with the couple in Sea Turtle and were given One Drop to use as a lounge on our last day. Sea Turtle has a truly great bathtub and the bathroom is huge. The room itself is also lovely. One Drop has a wonderful outdoor shower which really is an asset. I suppose, as one of the smaller of the rooms it might not be everyone's first choice. Of course, it is self contained which may be a real selling point for some. Though I honestly have to say that we felt as if our place was very private. Blue Hole looks perfectly secluded - farther back from the cliffs and with its own diving off point down a hole to the cave water below. From there you could swim forward to the cliffs.
My husband has been to negril several times but as this was my first time he thought I might want to take a look at the beach. We arranged to spend the day on the beach at Idle Awhile which has really has an interesting and sexy style to it. We only spent about an hour at the beach, leaving when a rather rude exchange began between a guest at Idle Awhile and one of the waiters who was doing everything in his power to calm the man.
On our way back we visited several of the other hotels we had been interested in: Moondance Villas, Tensing Pen and Rockhouse. All were very nice and we would happily stay at any one of them. Tensing Pen and Rockhouse are also apparently very reasonably priced which would make them excellent choices for anyone wanting to keep to a budget.
There is nothing we would change about our experience at the Caves. The idea of leaving was so painful we even arranged to stay an extra day.
If anyone is interested in the other properties I mentioned feel free to post and I will try to get back to you. Thanks again to all who helped me!
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Old Dec 15th, 2003, 05:07 AM
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Good report. We're in Negril right now, stayed at The Caves for 5 nights and our experience was much as yours.
We did get "itchy" for the beach and cut our stay at The Caves 2 nights short and moved to Moondance Villas which is superb. They were fairly full and gave us a 5000+ square foot home for ourselves including a bartender and cook. Great location and highly recommended. I would suggest combining a few nights at The Caves with a stay at the beach. We did get bored at The Caves after a few days.
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Old Dec 15th, 2003, 08:57 AM
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sneep

just wanted to say wonderful report.
 
Old Dec 15th, 2003, 09:03 AM
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Great report. Can I ask how you got to the Caves? Where did you fly into and did a driver meet you? Thanks
 
Old Dec 16th, 2003, 01:29 AM
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Hey Robrook - we flew into Montego Bay and were met by a driver from the caves for the drive. The drive didn't seem terribly long - roughly an hour. I do know that some people have flown from montego bay to negril on a small local airline. I believe there are some posts about it.
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Old Dec 16th, 2003, 08:23 AM
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Again Sneep, great report. There's not a lot of info on The Caves. I think they want to keep this gem private.
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Old Dec 17th, 2003, 09:16 AM
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Sneep - Thanks for bringing me back to the caves! We stayed in Sea Turtle and yes, that bathtub was something else.

I remember when you were planning the trip from your prior posts. Glad to know this trip exceeded expectations.

While on return trips to Negril I have since stayed at the Great House at Tensig Pen - I am nonetheless a committed "cliff-dewller" in Negril - really a unique , special setting unlike anywhere else in the carib.

So, when are you going back?

All the best -
Amy K
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Old Dec 17th, 2003, 12:49 PM
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Hello Amy!
I cannot thank you enough for all of your kind posts - your descriptions of the caves were spot on!
My husband and I have - I fear - become committed to the idea of annual visits - I would love to hear any thoughts you have on cliff resort 'runners up' as it were.
I had a fleeting recollection of your post as I sat in sea turtle - most notably your remarks on the lovely bathtub.....eerie....ghosts of vacations past and present.....?
I remarked upon that eerie feeling to my husband that night (through the hazy gauze of 4 cliffhangers) - he handed me some tylenol and suggested that I try to 'ease back' on travel forums...and that perhaps taking up a hobby might do my some good.
gulp.
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Old Dec 17th, 2003, 02:21 PM
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Sneep -

good one! We must be releated, soul sisters in travel. My hubby makes comments like that too, but then again, is always thrilled when we get where we are going.

I would definitely recommend Tensing Pen as highly as I would the Caves for an alternate cliff dwelling. Not the same amenities, but really, really unique and lovely.

Fell free to email me anytime!

Happy travels (and surfing)

Amy
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Old Dec 17th, 2003, 02:22 PM
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Note to self : SPELL CHECK. sheesh.
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Old Dec 26th, 2003, 08:37 AM
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Hello!
We enjoyed your review of The Caves. I also have been to Negril, 27 years ago, but my wife has not. She is concerned about not being on the beach, I suggested to her we could do both, visit the beach and stay on the cliffs. We were looking into The Caves and some of the other places you spoke of, Moondance Villas, Tensing Pen, Rockhouse and Idle Awhile. Of these I was leaning towards The Caves and Tensing Pen. We are putting together some ideas of what we want to do, a little of everything or as little as nothing. Pretty much just go with the flow. Although we don't want to miss something really cool. We may be interested in some sight seeing within a 6-9 hour touring area. Did you do any touring of the area by car or tour org.? So if you have some knowledge of what's happening in Negril we would be interested in hearing more from you. We want to do some snorkeling on the reef. Was the reef easy to get from The Caves or was this area just cliffs (which for me would cool too, not so much for my wife)? Was your stay at The Caves all-inclusive or do you pay as you go? We are not sure of going all-inclusive, we thought of doing a semi-all-inclusive and sampling food and other activities in town or other resorts but also having a few days of an all-inclusive stay too. As you can tell we are excited and eager to hear more. Thanks, William_Bonney
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Old Dec 26th, 2003, 01:47 PM
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I can help with a couple of your questions...

You can snorkel from the Caves or Tensing Pen, along the cliffs there is reef right there. THe reefs are a greater distance from the beach and to snorkel from there you need to take a boat - about 10 minutes only. You can also have a boat pick you up at a cliff hotel and take you elsewhere to snorkel (but one of the nice things aobut staying on the cliffs is the ability to snorkel anytime right there).

Tensing Pen and the Caves are both on the cliffs but have great water access - the water is about 15 feet deep there and very clear and nice for swimming and floating but there is no sandy beach.

If you want to split your time between the beach and cliffs, the only two on your list that are on the beach are Idle Awhile and Moondance Villas - both of which are beautiful. Idle Awhile is a smallish, very nice hotel with some suites, Moondance is all staffed villas - 1-6 bedrooms in size.
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Old Dec 28th, 2003, 05:00 AM
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Hello William - let me see if I can address some of your other questions....any stay at the caves is an all-inclusive - I am afraid there is really no pay as you go option. As for touring around, we did not venture very far from the resort - save a day trip to the beach where we arranged to spend time at idle awhile which has a very attractive layout and design. We visited Tensing Pen and Rockhouse along the cliffs and took a tour of moondance villas and idle while on the beach. All were just lovely - each with a different feel - Rockhouse maintains a 'hip' but seemingly relaxed atmosphere while Tensing Pen seemed slightly more mature and quiet (mind you, we were on these properties for only an hour each at the most). Idle Awhile was a lovely beach property - designed in a very open plan retro and sexy atmosphere but moondance had a very special and luxurious feeling to it. Moondance is expensive but truly seems worth it - I believe however that again, the arrangement there is also all-inclusive only.
If you are interested in sampling food elsewhere as well as being surrounded by a lovely property that you choose Tensing Pen - they do not provide an all-inclusive and in fact only serve meals several times a week.
If you are interested in touring the island and sampling less touristy areas you might want to consider a stay at a cliff or beach resort and then heading into the mountains and staying at Strawberry Hill. Friends of ours just returned from a stay there and cannot say enough about the resort.
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Old Dec 28th, 2003, 05:49 AM
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sneep: thank you very much for such a wonderful trip report. i'm putting the caves on our list of places to consider for our next anniversary trip!
 
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