lizzy911

My boyfriend and I are looking to spend 8 nights in Jamaica in May. We are sort of off-the-beaten path, low key, thrifty (not cheap) types and from research it looks like Port Antonio or Treasure Beach might be good locations. I suppose another option would be 4 nights in each. Could anyone help spell out the advantages of one over the other? From my research it appears TB is cheaper and has less beautiful waters, but both beaches are relatively safe and not overly touristed. Please let me know any other differences.

I assume we will probably have to rent a car to get to either beach, unless poeple think hiring a driver is a better idea? I am unsure which would work out less expensively, I assume renting a car. I also like the idea of having mobility, although it seems like driving can be pretty dangerous in Jamaica.

Finally, if anyone has recommendations of places to stay that would be great. We are hoping for a B&B or small hotel, preferably under $150 a night (around $100 would be great).

THANKS!

liza

I'd do both (and i have, in one trip), but if you can only choose one I'd do Portland...not only beautiful beaches but also the Blue Mountains close by, and the area is lush and beautiful.

TB is nice too but the water is not the same and the climate is kind of dry.

But I'd split my time...or maybe do 5 days Porty and 3 days TB at the end....

ejcrowe

I haven't visited Port Antonio (yet!), but my visit to Jamaica in 2005 was to Treasure Beach, and I simply loved it. I don't think you could go wrong either way!

spook

We did both last winter and we loved both. The only downside to trying to fit both in would be the driving. Assuming you are flying into Mobay, the approximate times are as follows. Mobay to TB, 2-2 1/2 hrs., TB to Portie 6-8 hrs., and back to Mobay 4-5 hrs. Save yourself the hassle and get a driver. Both are great but different. We loved both but unless we had the time TB will probably be the first to get a return visit. We are actually big fans of Negril (4th trip upcomong this Feb.) but as Jamaica lovers in general, we really enjoyed our time in the less (much less) touristy areas you want to visit. Either or you can't go wrong. Enjoy!

tivertonhouse

Consider your arrival and departure days as essentially 'lost' days, yielding 6 nights only to really decompress, enjoy, explore. Given the distance, whether you've a private driver or not, would recommmend picking
either TB or Porty. Just one. Since it's a full day's travel to do both and 3 nights in each would prove unsatisfyingly brief -- merely scratching the surface. TB is dry savannah, Porty wet rainforest. Early May sees generally less rainy weather than late, esp. the last week. The last week in May in TB is also the Calabash
Literary Festival, a draw all on its own, but with 2,000 people in town, it's booked full well in advance. See
http://www.treasurebeach.net, the community Web site for a full spectrum
of accomodations. Since it's off-season, some of the smaller villas are also within your budget range. For TB, it's easiest to fly into MoBay, have a private driver waiting for you for the 2.5 hour drive over/rate for 2 is
standardly US$120+10% driver tip. Wherever you're staying in TB can generally set this up for you in advance with your rental. For Port Antonio, best to fly into Kingston, have a private driver/rental
car awaiting you for the 2.5-3 hour drive round the coast to Porty. You then keep the car, which you'll need to get around, until it's time to drive
back with driver to airport for departure. In-town Porty guesthouses like Ivanhoe and Palmer's, Great Huts out at Boston Bay for the 2 story bamboo
treehouse, Goblin Hill, a beach villa
(name escapes me right now) out on Long Sands Beach, Zion Country/Rasta style,
Mikuzi/Winifred Beach Cottages might go on your checklist. Villas are expensive in Porty (we just opened up Belmont, the former Molson estate at Alligator Head, San San/see http://jamaicaescapes.com for it and some superb photos of Port Antonio by
"Caribbean Cantata" CD book author Jane Wingate). Villas on the Blue Lagoon, just bought by Billy Lee Chin run around US$4-6K/week and up. Most villas here are upmarket high-end and unfortunately not in your budget range even in summer season. But there are more places to eat out in Porty than TB;neither is nightlife country, tho the Roof Club in Porty and Fisherman's Bar/some of the beachshack bars in TB are good lounge-around/sometimes dance places. Whichever area you decide on
will give you an untouristy take on island.

lizzy911

Thanks for the advice so far! We actually are planning our trip for the last week of May, so it is hard to weigh all the options. We were probably leaning towards 4 nights in each place but we may just do Port Antonio. Will the heat and/or bugs there be overwhelming there in May?

I also wondered if anyone had any experiences with the following places. I have been checking out TripAdvisor but I always like experiences here. Also sometimes I don't see reviews for places I find on TripAdvsior.

Port Antonio - Great Huts or Fern Hill Club
TB - Calabash House, Button Bay, Taino Cove

Or any other places you personally have stayed and enjoyed! Thanks.

faithie

look at my trip report under Port Antonio Jamaica trip Report by Willem

tivertonhouse

The AI crowd on tripadvisor.com by and large ignores Porty (a good thing)so
not many reviews there (make sure you
check Fathie's here,tho in archives).
We'll be handling Calabash House and the new gallery about to open there this coming January so inquire...The two-story bamboo house at Great Huts is the best accomodation there, tho the
Moroccan-style leather huts can be intruiging. All have ceiling fans. They're on the rustic side and so priced. Don't know if Fern Hill has reopened or not...Taino Cove in TB is a small new hotel run by a former Jesse
Jackson campaign aid and lawyer from UK with roots on island. It's in Old Wharf, about 10 min. walk from the
'central village' Calabash Bay. Button
Bay, run by Gladys Finlaison, out in
Fort Charles has a pool but beach is smallish/however, Billy's Bay and Fort Charles beaches, both largely untrafficked, are within easy drive/mt.bike or walk on the countrylane away.

tivertonhouse

A potent Deet or non-Deet insect repellent is standard equipment, just
about anywhere in islands year-round.

liza

Actually there is a great Porty trip report posted on tripadvisor right now - I wouldn't say that board caters 'to the AI crowd" at all.

The report I'm thinking of can be seen directly at http://www.marcline.com/main/content.php?content.8

Re: Porty accomodations we have only stayed at Fern Hill, and we chose it after visiting Frenchman's (run down) and Goblin Hill (too expensive and too quiet for us). We loved Fern Hill, did a suit for $99 a night, the standard rooms are very nice too and only $79, all have great views. This was in 2003 so things may have changed, but then we loved it. Great Huts is on my list to check out.

Re: splitting the time or picking just one place...that's a matter of your personality. I like to be on the move and see things so the driving days to me weren't "lost" at all but rather adventures - we drove our own car and stopped along the way and had a blast.

But there is plenty to do in either area if you'd prefer to take shorter trips from one home base.

lizzy911

Wow! You guys really are a wealth of information. I suppose I didn't realize how far Port Antonio is from Treasure Beach. After reviewing the information, I think my boyfriend and I are leaning towards another plan: 4 nights in Negril followed by 4 at Treasure Beach. I think that might give us the ability to feel out both sides of Jamaica and not go crazy driving. We will likely hire a driver from Montego Bay to Negril then a car the last 4 days at TB. If anyone has comments on this plan, I welcome them.

Also... as far as accommodation, it seems like there are very many quaint nice places in TB... I really like that website! If anyone has suggestions for Negril let me know. I realize we might have to go over $150 there but have any of you experienced any real gems in Negril? I.e. not overly crowded, overly expensive, and laid back with a bit more of a local vibe? Just a cursory look and we came up with Country Country, has anyone been there?

Thanks again, you guys are great!

lizzy911

Yeah, just to continue on my own post I have been looking at Treehouse and Idle Awhile in Negril... any comments on those?

tivertonhouse

Idle-A-While on the beach and Tensing Pen on the cliffs, both Negril, might fit your style/budget well. The Negril plus Treasure Beach plan is very do-able and the drive from Negril to TB is only 2 hours -- with some good stops en route (Peter Tosh Mausoleum, Culloden Cafe for lunch, Whitehouse market, Scott's Cove for fish & bammy).

DaveJJ

My wife and I stayed at the Calabash House in February 2005. We had a fantastic time. Dawn (the cook and housekeeper) and Jocelyn (the yard man)absolutely made our vacation. TB truly is a treasure. We had also stayed at the Whistling Bird in Negril and would not hesitate to return. If you click on my name you should be able to find my trip report of our sojourn around Jamaica. Enjoy.

tivertonhouse

Just got in new photos from island of the works-in-progress at Calabash House where the Mermaid Gallery will also soon open. Lots of mosaicwork being
done on outside walls and inside as well. The living room is now a deep red
color. Dawn rules the roost now, as Jocelyn retired this past season.

chesney

The gem that I have stayed at repeatedly in Negril is Coco La Palm. It's a smaller hotel in the middle of the beach, very easy to get to everything. The best staff out there by far!! It definitly keeps a laid back local feel with great vibes- it's why we keep going back there!!

liza

Consider the cliffs in Negril rather than the beach for relaxing, less hustle.

Catcha Falling Star and Blue Cave Castle are my favorites and have rooms in (or well under) your budget.

liza

PS: I'm sure you know Negril is NOT "off the beaten path" at all...but the cliffs are definitely less busy/touristy than the beach.

lizzy911

I am following up with almost every one of your suggestions... Tensing Pen looks to already be full for next year.

Liza- I was wondering if you have any suggestions as to which cabin is best at Catcha Falling Star? That place does look amazing! Also, do you have a particular room you like at Blue Cave Cove? Is the penthouse worth the extra money? That place is certainly intriguing as well.

I know Negril is pretty touristy but my boyfriend and I decided we wanted to try to do something a little "safer" for a few days at the beginning of our trip, partially because our last vacation (all over Europe and Egypt) gave us enough surprises for a while.

Thanks as always for the help!

liza

I've actually stayed at most of the cottages at Catcha, because we extended our stay there and they were booked pretty full so we moved around. Sagi is closest to the water, also closest to Rick's and has several decks and porches, Libra has an unobstructed path/view to the water and is essentially waterfront, they have the same layout. Star and Moon are the largest (2BR) and to me nicest - also have indoor and outdoor showers, though they are set back a bit they have really big wrap around porches. Gemini and Pisces have AC and are furthest from the water...but we are talking feet here. Breakfast included, great small resort, private and quiet, I love the staff.

Blue Cave's penthouse - if you can get it - is definitely worth it, you can fit 100 people on the decks up there and the view is incredible Again a cool small resort, a little more bohemian (it's less $$$), coffee included, no two rooms the same and I've stayed in 4 of them and enjoyed all.

Both have very good water access, no pool, a kitchen available for guest use, and restaurants in walking distance.