I've got Sweet Grenada in my Heart
May 27th, 2007, 07:02 AM
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I've got Sweet Grenada in my Heart
Since "Ahhh, Grenada" has been appropriated by Nevis fans around here, I'll switch to Sweet Grenada. 
This trip report will be brief relative to my previous trip reports simply because I will be writing up the full version over on www.GrenadaTravelForum.com to compete in their trip report contest. When I have that complete TR written up over there, I'll post here to let you know. Sadly, I will be unable to provide any photo links from this trip because in a moment of idiocy I left my camera and two memory cards behind with American Airlines, presumably never to be seen again.
My home in Grenada for the first week was the Cinnamon Suite of the SpiceTree Suites, a two bedroom apartment in the Lanse aux Epines region, which I got at the unbelievable introductory rate of US $65/night. It was fully furnished, with a/c in the bedrooms and a full kitchen, but it was the small decorative touches that made it so comfortable. It also had a tv, dvd player, and stereo, and within easy walking distance of four restaurants and the small beach at Prickly Bay.
The first week was my budget week, so other than my rental car my main expense was a trip to the grocery store where I stocked up on staples like tuna, fresh produce, breads, peanut butter, and of course rum!
My afternoons that first week were spent with a children's after school program, run by Miss Claudia and assisted by Miss Mandy, a Peace Corps volunteer. The "Evening School" as it is known, is used to help give kids some one on one attention with school work and social development. It was founded by the indefatigable Ann Hopkin, who returned to Grenada after retirement from work in the US and UK. She now enjoys a quiet retirement of doing volunteer work seven days a week!
Anyway, the first day the kids were a little shy around me, but the next day they got over that pretty quickly. We were reading stories, singing songs, and doing those little handclap games that girls the world over never seem to tire of--the claps were familiar from my own childhood but the chants were new to my ear. We worked on their school work first, if they had any, and then moved on to the fun worksheets that Miss Mandy had prepared for the kids according to their skill level, and then we ended the afternoon we games, reading, and a snack.
One day I joined Ann Hopkin and three of her friends to spend the day "in the country." We drove up the leeward coast all the way to Victoria so that Ann and her friends could help deliver food, clothing, and medical care to elderly patients in that parish. I wasn't especially helpful in any meaningful way, but I did a lot of toting and carrying. One of the government ministers (maybe Minister of Works?) joined us for the day, which impressed me more than I can say. A medical doctor in her former career, she joined us with the visits and deliveries, talking with each patient, saying prayers over them, touching them. I'm fairly certain that her equivalent in our government would never do such a thing unless it was a photo-op.
After my solo week in Grenada, my husband joined me for a few days before our friends came down so that we could have some couple time together. One day we drove up the Windward coast to Grenville and the old airport, which was fascinatingly eerie. We just tooled around, stopping here and there along the way at roadside stands for Ting, until we made it back down far enough to do a waterfall hike. A local guide named Boa led us to the falls, which was about a 7 minute hike over some pretty mild terrain--a few hills but nothing too strenuous.
Another day we spent out at La Sagesse, which is tied for our favorite beach in all of our Caribbean travels (the other is on Bequia). Another morning we went to market and then just tooled around until a sunset walk along Grand Anse. We spent those glorious few days mostly limin' and eatin', sometimes at the same time.
On Tuesday my husband and I moved from SpiceTree Suites to Tradewind Pavilion, a villa owned by the same folks, Anthon and Sharon Antoine. We had stayed at their smaller villa, Turtleback, last year and so when the time came to pick a vacation villa with our friends, this was a no-brainer. We spent that day accustoming ourselves to the villa life, enduring the rugged cycle of swimming in the pool, reading on the rooftop patio, playing with the dogs, mixing rum punch, back to swimming in the pool and so on.
Our friends are musicians and as such they are on the road at least 35 weeks out of the year, and most years more like 40 weeks. They had never taken a trip for vacation before, instead preferring to recharge their batteries at home. Well, they really took the Caribbean and villa life especially. We spent the first few days exploring the island and visiting different beaches, but by the end of our vacation, they were content to stay behind at the villa while my husband and I went out to play.
We visited, in order of our favorites, La Sagesse, Magazine Beach, Morne Rouge, Grand Anse, and Prickly Bay, some of them multiple times.
Our favorite meals were lunch at Spice Island, and dinner at Boots Cuisine and the Aquarium. Over the course of my 16 day trip, I also sampled the following:
Red Crab -- dinner here was pretty good, but not as good we remembered from last year.
Coconut Beach -- ditto the Red Crab comment.
Kudo's -- perfectly fine dinner if sticking to burgers, BBQ chicken, etc. Rum punch tasted like it was made with coconut rum, which I don't care for.
True Blue -- perfectly adequate. Slightly better than last year.
Boots -- outstanding both times we ate there for dinner.
Spice Island -- oustanding the three times we ate there for lunch
Aquarium -- oustanding for our special dinner out, slightly better than average for an afternoon outing for dessert.
We also went to Fish Friday this year, hiring a driver so that we could all enjoy ourselves. What a great time that was! We sampled so many different kinds of fish that we were all fit to burst by the end of the evening.
One morning we drove into St. George's for the market and we did a little shopping at Tikal, which we passed along the way. We bought a ton of spices and produce, as well as some james, soaps, syrups. Also some fresh eggs and fresh bread for fixing up some Mango & Banana French Toast the next day, with fresh cinnamon, nutmeg, and vanilla mixed in. The market experience was fantastic, as was the French toast the next morning!
We were very sad to leave Grenada, but we extended our vacation one night by spending our last night in Old San Juan. Last year we stayed at El Convento, but the price has gone up significantly since then, so we opted for the more moderate Sheraton Old San Juan. Great location and great price, somewhat ho-hum atmosphere. Our last meal on vacation was at Agua Viva, where we shared a smorgasborde of ceviches, oysters, and other seafood. We all had a grand time together and vowed that we must do it again.
I'm happy to answer any questions y'all might have about the trip, but in order for me to qualify for the trip report contest, I can't really post more here in a straightforward report. Just let me know, and thanks for reading!
This trip report will be brief relative to my previous trip reports simply because I will be writing up the full version over on www.GrenadaTravelForum.com to compete in their trip report contest. When I have that complete TR written up over there, I'll post here to let you know. Sadly, I will be unable to provide any photo links from this trip because in a moment of idiocy I left my camera and two memory cards behind with American Airlines, presumably never to be seen again.
My home in Grenada for the first week was the Cinnamon Suite of the SpiceTree Suites, a two bedroom apartment in the Lanse aux Epines region, which I got at the unbelievable introductory rate of US $65/night. It was fully furnished, with a/c in the bedrooms and a full kitchen, but it was the small decorative touches that made it so comfortable. It also had a tv, dvd player, and stereo, and within easy walking distance of four restaurants and the small beach at Prickly Bay.
The first week was my budget week, so other than my rental car my main expense was a trip to the grocery store where I stocked up on staples like tuna, fresh produce, breads, peanut butter, and of course rum!
My afternoons that first week were spent with a children's after school program, run by Miss Claudia and assisted by Miss Mandy, a Peace Corps volunteer. The "Evening School" as it is known, is used to help give kids some one on one attention with school work and social development. It was founded by the indefatigable Ann Hopkin, who returned to Grenada after retirement from work in the US and UK. She now enjoys a quiet retirement of doing volunteer work seven days a week!
Anyway, the first day the kids were a little shy around me, but the next day they got over that pretty quickly. We were reading stories, singing songs, and doing those little handclap games that girls the world over never seem to tire of--the claps were familiar from my own childhood but the chants were new to my ear. We worked on their school work first, if they had any, and then moved on to the fun worksheets that Miss Mandy had prepared for the kids according to their skill level, and then we ended the afternoon we games, reading, and a snack.
One day I joined Ann Hopkin and three of her friends to spend the day "in the country." We drove up the leeward coast all the way to Victoria so that Ann and her friends could help deliver food, clothing, and medical care to elderly patients in that parish. I wasn't especially helpful in any meaningful way, but I did a lot of toting and carrying. One of the government ministers (maybe Minister of Works?) joined us for the day, which impressed me more than I can say. A medical doctor in her former career, she joined us with the visits and deliveries, talking with each patient, saying prayers over them, touching them. I'm fairly certain that her equivalent in our government would never do such a thing unless it was a photo-op.
After my solo week in Grenada, my husband joined me for a few days before our friends came down so that we could have some couple time together. One day we drove up the Windward coast to Grenville and the old airport, which was fascinatingly eerie. We just tooled around, stopping here and there along the way at roadside stands for Ting, until we made it back down far enough to do a waterfall hike. A local guide named Boa led us to the falls, which was about a 7 minute hike over some pretty mild terrain--a few hills but nothing too strenuous.
Another day we spent out at La Sagesse, which is tied for our favorite beach in all of our Caribbean travels (the other is on Bequia). Another morning we went to market and then just tooled around until a sunset walk along Grand Anse. We spent those glorious few days mostly limin' and eatin', sometimes at the same time.
On Tuesday my husband and I moved from SpiceTree Suites to Tradewind Pavilion, a villa owned by the same folks, Anthon and Sharon Antoine. We had stayed at their smaller villa, Turtleback, last year and so when the time came to pick a vacation villa with our friends, this was a no-brainer. We spent that day accustoming ourselves to the villa life, enduring the rugged cycle of swimming in the pool, reading on the rooftop patio, playing with the dogs, mixing rum punch, back to swimming in the pool and so on.
Our friends are musicians and as such they are on the road at least 35 weeks out of the year, and most years more like 40 weeks. They had never taken a trip for vacation before, instead preferring to recharge their batteries at home. Well, they really took the Caribbean and villa life especially. We spent the first few days exploring the island and visiting different beaches, but by the end of our vacation, they were content to stay behind at the villa while my husband and I went out to play.
We visited, in order of our favorites, La Sagesse, Magazine Beach, Morne Rouge, Grand Anse, and Prickly Bay, some of them multiple times.
Our favorite meals were lunch at Spice Island, and dinner at Boots Cuisine and the Aquarium. Over the course of my 16 day trip, I also sampled the following:
Red Crab -- dinner here was pretty good, but not as good we remembered from last year.
Coconut Beach -- ditto the Red Crab comment.
Kudo's -- perfectly fine dinner if sticking to burgers, BBQ chicken, etc. Rum punch tasted like it was made with coconut rum, which I don't care for.
True Blue -- perfectly adequate. Slightly better than last year.
Boots -- outstanding both times we ate there for dinner.
Spice Island -- oustanding the three times we ate there for lunch
Aquarium -- oustanding for our special dinner out, slightly better than average for an afternoon outing for dessert.
We also went to Fish Friday this year, hiring a driver so that we could all enjoy ourselves. What a great time that was! We sampled so many different kinds of fish that we were all fit to burst by the end of the evening.
One morning we drove into St. George's for the market and we did a little shopping at Tikal, which we passed along the way. We bought a ton of spices and produce, as well as some james, soaps, syrups. Also some fresh eggs and fresh bread for fixing up some Mango & Banana French Toast the next day, with fresh cinnamon, nutmeg, and vanilla mixed in. The market experience was fantastic, as was the French toast the next morning!
We were very sad to leave Grenada, but we extended our vacation one night by spending our last night in Old San Juan. Last year we stayed at El Convento, but the price has gone up significantly since then, so we opted for the more moderate Sheraton Old San Juan. Great location and great price, somewhat ho-hum atmosphere. Our last meal on vacation was at Agua Viva, where we shared a smorgasborde of ceviches, oysters, and other seafood. We all had a grand time together and vowed that we must do it again.
I'm happy to answer any questions y'all might have about the trip, but in order for me to qualify for the trip report contest, I can't really post more here in a straightforward report. Just let me know, and thanks for reading!
May 27th, 2007, 10:00 AM
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Grenada has always been one of my most favorite Caribbean islands although I haven't gotten back in several years. It just has everything...beaches, mountains, beautiful harbor, wonderful people, etc. Thanks for the report and will look for the full version on the other formum.
May 27th, 2007, 10:23 AM
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I am soooo looking forward to your full trip report. Your trip sounds like it was just wonderful. I love what you did the afternoons of your first week. Thank you for doing your part in making this world a better place. I still have my fingers crossed regarding your camera and pictures.
May 27th, 2007, 03:39 PM
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Sounds great, EJ. As you know we supposed to be in Grenada this past week but because of my Mother's illness could not go. We rescheduled for Oct 12. Can't wait!!!
I will print all your rest. recs.
Peace, Greenie.
I will print all your rest. recs.
Peace, Greenie.
May 27th, 2007, 05:42 PM
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EJ, I'm just back from this year's Caribbean trip and I'm already planning where to go next. Grenada is on my short list. It seems you have so much experience in the Caribbean and we share the same likes: a villa with pool and a/c. How did you like Tradewinds/Turtleback? Would you recommend?
May 27th, 2007, 05:58 PM
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greenie, yes I remember that you were scheduled for trip to Grenada, but that you had to cancel because of your mother's health. I'm delighted that she's recovered enough for you to be able to reschedule your trip for October. The beach at Coyaba is really nice and I caught a lovely sunset there last week.
Maggi, you make me laugh. I don't have all that much experience with the Caribbean, as my first trip was just in 2001. I'm just more vocal about it than most folks!
In July I'll be staying on VG for the first time, and your ongoing trip report while you were there was invaluable.
Yes, I'd definitely recommend the Antoines and either of their villas. Tradewind is larger, more private, and naturally more expensive. But I would return to either one in a heartbeat. The same caveat from my trip last year applies to this year, though, but it might not be pertinent to you: the bedrooms don't have good light for reading in bed. Sharon brought me a small reading lamp to use during my stay, which I appreciated. Tradewind has high speed internet access in the living room and the master bedroom, and we were also able to get wi-fi out on the rooftop pavilion but not elsewhere in the villa. www.reefviewgrenada.com for more info. Let me know if you have specific questions about the villas, Maggi. I'd like to be able to reciprocate to you for all of your help on Mahoe Bay.
Maggi, you make me laugh. I don't have all that much experience with the Caribbean, as my first trip was just in 2001. I'm just more vocal about it than most folks!
In July I'll be staying on VG for the first time, and your ongoing trip report while you were there was invaluable. Yes, I'd definitely recommend the Antoines and either of their villas. Tradewind is larger, more private, and naturally more expensive. But I would return to either one in a heartbeat. The same caveat from my trip last year applies to this year, though, but it might not be pertinent to you: the bedrooms don't have good light for reading in bed. Sharon brought me a small reading lamp to use during my stay, which I appreciated. Tradewind has high speed internet access in the living room and the master bedroom, and we were also able to get wi-fi out on the rooftop pavilion but not elsewhere in the villa. www.reefviewgrenada.com for more info. Let me know if you have specific questions about the villas, Maggi. I'd like to be able to reciprocate to you for all of your help on Mahoe Bay.
May 27th, 2007, 08:48 PM
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Yes, EJ I will definitely pick your brain about Grenada in the future. While researching future spots on this board, it seems you have been to all the places I am looking at, i.e. St. Kitts, Jamaica, Antigua, Nevis, etc. You're way more well traveled than we are.
May 28th, 2007, 10:06 AM
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I forgot to include in my TR that on my way down to Grenada I opted not to stay in the aeropuerto for the entire layover. Instead, on HowardC's recommendation, I grabbed a cab and headed over to the Numero Uno guesthouse in Ocean Park. It's on a wide swath of light sand beach and I grabbed a table & umbrella and parked myself there for about three hours over a leisurely lunch. The beach wasn't as crowded as I had expected but it still made for good people watching opportunities when I looked up from my book. The food was good and the service was pleasant. The outing, including lunch and return cab fare, was about the cost of a daypass for the Admirals Club. I wanted to return to SJU with plenty of time to spare because everybody mentioned that all of the lines were a nightmare, but there was not a single person waiting in line when I walked in. Which means I had about 2.5 hours left to kill, but between my book selection and people watching, I was quite content.
Anyway, thumbs up to Numero Uno and their restaurant called Pamela's for a nice respite from the airport.
Anyway, thumbs up to Numero Uno and their restaurant called Pamela's for a nice respite from the airport.
May 28th, 2007, 11:51 AM
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Hi Ejcrowe, I am glad you had a wonderful trip to Grenada. I plan to visit Grenada, not sure when because my one friend could not get over the long ride to Bequia. I would like to visit a high school. I teach Algebra and would love to volunteer for a day or two. Also you stated you flew into San Juan, what airline did you use to fly to Grenada? I want to stay near Grand Anse beach? I would love any other information you think I may need because you gave good information for Bequia. Thanks in advance.
May 28th, 2007, 01:35 PM
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hi, tch. When was your trip to Bequia? I'm hoping that I'll be able to return there next year.
For accommodations on Grand Anse, take a look at Allamanda for more of a budget accommodation, Coyaba and Grenada Grand for slightly better. The beach is lovely in front of all three. Allamanda and Coyaba are close to the Spiceland Mall and the Marquis shopping center, the Grand is closer to the Grand Anse shopping center.
If I wanted to be close to Grand Anse and wanted a hotel-type place (instead of my preferred villa), I'd probably choose Blue Horizons, which is not directly on the beach. The accommodations are cottage like, newly renovated and with a full kitchen. There's a pool and a really good restaurant on site, and since it's owned by the same people as the Spice Island Beach Resort, you can go there and use their beach facilities. You can also set up an account at Spice Island and get (I think) 10% your meals there. We ate lunch at Spice Island three times this past trip and enjoyed it each time. Expensive, yes, but the overall value is very good considering the quality of the food, service, and
setting.
I flew American Airlines to Grenada, which is a pain in the patootie! Going down I had about a six hour layover and coming back I would have had a close to eight hour layover if I hadn't planned a stopover in San Juan anyway. It's hard to get to Grenada from the US, even from the east coast of the US. Some folks I talked with flew either to Barbados or Trinidad on major airlines and then connected to Grenada on a local carrier, but their travel days were just as long as mine were, so it didn't seem to save any time. American Eagle has one flight leaving SJU every day around 5:30 pm and one flight daily leaving Grenada back to SJU at around 7:00 am. Not exactly an ideal schedule!
I'm sure there are plenty of organizations you could work through to volunteer your time down there. Just do a few searches and see what comes up.
For accommodations on Grand Anse, take a look at Allamanda for more of a budget accommodation, Coyaba and Grenada Grand for slightly better. The beach is lovely in front of all three. Allamanda and Coyaba are close to the Spiceland Mall and the Marquis shopping center, the Grand is closer to the Grand Anse shopping center.
If I wanted to be close to Grand Anse and wanted a hotel-type place (instead of my preferred villa), I'd probably choose Blue Horizons, which is not directly on the beach. The accommodations are cottage like, newly renovated and with a full kitchen. There's a pool and a really good restaurant on site, and since it's owned by the same people as the Spice Island Beach Resort, you can go there and use their beach facilities. You can also set up an account at Spice Island and get (I think) 10% your meals there. We ate lunch at Spice Island three times this past trip and enjoyed it each time. Expensive, yes, but the overall value is very good considering the quality of the food, service, and
setting.
I flew American Airlines to Grenada, which is a pain in the patootie! Going down I had about a six hour layover and coming back I would have had a close to eight hour layover if I hadn't planned a stopover in San Juan anyway. It's hard to get to Grenada from the US, even from the east coast of the US. Some folks I talked with flew either to Barbados or Trinidad on major airlines and then connected to Grenada on a local carrier, but their travel days were just as long as mine were, so it didn't seem to save any time. American Eagle has one flight leaving SJU every day around 5:30 pm and one flight daily leaving Grenada back to SJU at around 7:00 am. Not exactly an ideal schedule!
I'm sure there are plenty of organizations you could work through to volunteer your time down there. Just do a few searches and see what comes up.
May 28th, 2007, 04:21 PM
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Ejcrowe, I was in Bequia Easter week. I wished I could live there. I might try flying US Air to San Juan from Philadelphia and see if I can get that 5:30 flight to Grenada. Is this a daily fight? My friends would attempt a heart attack with that long of a layover. I probably wont be going until 2009. I am going to Vegas, March, Disney, June and a Bahamas Cruise December 2008.
May 30th, 2007, 09:54 AM
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Oh, woman of words welcome home !
I think "sweet Grenada" is an appropriate and sensory name. Maybe it conjures up some sensuality as well.
Just returned from my daughter's baby shower in Chicago, or more precisely, the suburbs of Chicago...no lovely adjectives come to mind for that location ;-)
Isn't it wonderful to spend more time at your destination ?
I'll look forward to more thoughts and your full TR. But, to paraphrase Simon Cowell on American Idol, the other contenders for the best TR should be thinking about the next contest
You will be the winner ! If we could vote,your friends here would ! Your victory will be your own, and that will be sweet
Marion
I think "sweet Grenada" is an appropriate and sensory name. Maybe it conjures up some sensuality as well.
Just returned from my daughter's baby shower in Chicago, or more precisely, the suburbs of Chicago...no lovely adjectives come to mind for that location ;-)
Isn't it wonderful to spend more time at your destination ?
I'll look forward to more thoughts and your full TR. But, to paraphrase Simon Cowell on American Idol, the other contenders for the best TR should be thinking about the next contest
You will be the winner ! If we could vote,your friends here would ! Your victory will be your own, and that will be sweet
Marion
Jun 4th, 2007, 12:59 PM
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topping for Tux.
Marion, thanks for your kind words of encouragement re: trip report on the other forum...and actually, there's nothing stopping you from registering over there and voting.
You could even stop to ask a few questions about your own vaguely-in-the-future trip to Grenada. It's a place I'm certain you would enjoy.
Marion, thanks for your kind words of encouragement re: trip report on the other forum...and actually, there's nothing stopping you from registering over there and voting.
You could even stop to ask a few questions about your own vaguely-in-the-future trip to Grenada. It's a place I'm certain you would enjoy.
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