well, your tentative plans would have me longing for some down time, so it really depends on how active you want to me. I got a little tired just reading what you wanted to do! The only thing on your list that might be a little redundant is the half day rain forest tour after hiking Mt. Liamuiga.

On Nevis it might be fun to explore the plantation inns, the botanical gardens, and possibly the ruins of Cottle Church in addition to Charlestown. Sunshine's is also a fun little beach bar and their signature drink, the Killer Bee, is a good rum punch. Some folks think the whole scene there is overrated, though I am not one of them. Checking out Lovers Beach could be good.

I like renting cars on my trips so that I can explore at my own pace, double back to see something I missed, etc, and I did rent a car on St. Kitts last November. Nearly all of the main roads were in excellent repair, and those that weren't still weren't too bad, like the road leading to Turtle Beach on the southern peninsula. I would skip seeing the island by scooter just because I would feel unsafe doing so, just like I wouldn't want to ride a bike, because so many drivers aren't used to looking for them or yielding to them.

I was pleasantly surprised with the snorkeling on St. Kitts. I had read review after review that said it was horrible and not to bother bringing a mask & snorkel on the trip. Well, the snorkeling wasn't excellent, but it did surpass my very low expectations. I don't know a thing about the diving.

Great itinerary. I would add Rawlins Plantation to your visit to Brimstone Hill (A MUST). If you take a taxi to Basseterre (the Circus) from your hotel you can pick up another taxi or arrange for your original driver to return to meet you after lunch for your countryside tour. The rates are reasonable and Kittitians love to tell you about their island. While in Basseterre , visit both the Anglican and Roman cathedrals, the new cricket grounds, the new Porte Zante and the original downtown (Fort St.) Lunch at Ballahoo above Island Hopper store at the Circus. Yes, you can drink the water but have a Ting: Grapefruit soda. Something you don't get when you rent a vehicle is a guided tour by a local for the price of a cab ride. The 5th day tour of the rain forests might be a bit much after climbing Mt. Liamuiga the day before. Why not relax and take the scenic sugarcane train around the island that day? You will see both the English and French influences in the sugar history, the black beaches and the villages all around the island. For your visit to Nevis, do it on a weekday when the ferries are more plentiful. See Charlestown first. It's a small city and since it is 400 years old, don't expect sidewalks. Again, you can get a taxi at the Taxi stand downtown to take you around the island (30 mile trip). A lot of Nevisian history is outside of town and a local can tell you about the points of interest. You will want to drive through the Four Seasons (no need to stop unless you want to). see Nelson Springs, St. Thomas (oldest Anglican Church in the Caribbean) Cottel Church (first church where black and white worshipped together) , Nisbett Plantation (another "pit stop") Newcastle pottery works, Brick Klin and around to Golden Rock Plantation. Stop for a drink on the patio and if it is a clear day you can see Montserrat on the horizon. In fact if the mountain is active you may see the ash cloud. If you are on an early schedule and arrive around lunchtime, try their lobster salad. You may also see the island monkeys around the property. There is a short hike up the hillside that is a pleasant way to streatch your legs. Also, on the way downhill from Goldenrock you may want to stop off at Montpellier Plantation and the Botanical Gardens. I've never been a big fan of the Botanical Gardens but that's probably because we live with many of the same plants in our yards. You will have seen a great overview of the island floral at the plantation inns that you visited. From there you are 15 minutes from Charlestown and your driver will have you back in time for your ferry or even a little more poking about.
Have fun.

One more thing. As you come back into Charlestown from your clockwise tour around the island, have your driver show you The Bath Hotel: the oldest hotel in the Caribbean. Actually, since it was a hot springs hotel it may be the oldest resort in the Caribbean. The Hot Springs are still in use.

After a looong absence from Fodor's, Nevisian said it all except to answer one of your questions. OTI is a nice hotel in the capital of Basseterre and TBR is a condominium hotel directly on the Caribbean Beach in Frigate Bay.

Yes, I agree that taking a guided taxi tour is a great intro to an island. I don't do that any longer for a few reasons--one of which is that I read so obsessively about my upcoming trips that I found that most of the info the taxi guides were giving me I had already read. Another is that I really do like to explore on my own, speed up here, skip over that, linger over this. You can't really do that politely if you're hiring someone to show you the sights and they're giving special attention to *everything*.

I also once had the misfortune of hiring a taxi tour guide that turned into a proselytizing tour. I won't say which island it was, and it definitely happened only once, but that was enough for me! Larz (or any future readers of this post), I don't think that would happen to you on St. Kitts. But you do strike me as someone who wants to be active and see things on your own--I would suggest that you could do just as well without a hired guide.

Thanks so much for all of your feedback. Sounds like there is a lot to see and do! Is it true that St. Kitts/Nevis is somewhat less "touristy," (e.g., less built up with huge mega-resorts, strip malls, etc.)and has retained a bit more culture and history than some of the more popular islands? How strenuous is the hike to Mt. Liaguiga? Does this hike actually take us through the rainforests as well? Are many of the old sugar mills still standing? Renting our own car does sound like the way to go(although driving on the left, in Ireland and Wales took some getting used to!) as we like the freedom to come and go as we please, and the time to immerse ourselves in the places we visit, without being on a strict schedule. How would the weather(in the air and under the sea)be in early February? Are there any ruins left of the old Bath Hotel - or is it basically the spa that has been renovated? By the way, I read that the old capital of Jamestown, on Nevis, slid into the sea during an earthquake hundreds of years ago, and that some of the ruins are visible to divers. Is this true, or just a fantastic tale aimed at unsuspecting history buffs - such as myself?!
Thanks again.

The forum on this web site was very helpful when our family went to St. Kitts.

http://www.myislands.myeyez.net/

Most posters recommended hiring a guide to climb the volcano. My husband and 14 year old son climbed with Royston Stevens. It is not an easy hike and there is potential to get lost and or hurt. He's a great guy and in incredible shape (trains for triathalons). He also took us on an island tour. However, another guide Thereford Grey (spelling?) might provide a more historical perspective for an island tour.

Greg's safaris is also a popular guide for the rain forest and volcanop hikes.

Here are some other interesting sites for Royston Stevens, The Shiggidy Shack (beach bar near Timothy Beach Resort), and Brimstone Hill Fortress:


http://www3.sympatico.ca/dougjp/royston.html

http://www.mrxshiggidyshack.com/

http://www.brimstonehillfortress.org/

Also, when you hike the volcano, you will also hike through the rain forest. You can do an internet search for Greg's Safaris since he has a site as well.

Larz, actually the Bath Hotel is still standing and in good condition. The Gov't used it until about 5 years ago. The last time I was in it I just walked in from the upper level. I think it is boarded up now. Greg's Safaris and Royston Stevens are both great guides. Do take a guide. Yes, the mountainside is rainforest and the hiking can be slippery and dangerous if you don't know the trails. St. Kitts/Nevis are very untouristy. The Four Seasons on Nevis and the Marriott on Kitts are the most touristy spots. IMHO the Marriott is a blight of Miami Beach mega-convention hotel. The Four Seasons is more low impact in design but still an imported experience. You will also find a Col. Sanders' Fried Chicken in St. Kitts but that is about as Americanized as it gets. February is lovely weatherwise - both above and below. You might bring a sweater or light jacket for the evenings, especially if you eat on an open veranda and a thin dive skin for the water. If you decide to rent a car do it through your hotel (insurance and a permit are provided) and sit down with the Concierge to map out a route guide. Get a car with right hand drive so you will feel the difference as you drive. Some of the rental cars are left hand (U.S. style) steering wheels and that is even more confusing! Be careful with right turns instead of left turns. There is one main road around each island and the side roads are marked (if you know in advance to be looking for them). Jamestown was destroyed (sunk). It is a wonderful local lore. One of the good ghost stories is that during a hurricane you can hear the bell from the church steeple ringing. The fact is that St. Thomas was the church for Jamestown and it is still in use. The location is disputed to have been around Nelson's Spring. Again, a local taxi driver would walk you through the questions/answers as you come upon them. As for Proselytizing... the Caribbean is very religious and many people approach life through their church affilliation. Actually, I found that the churches are the information centers for most people. Gossip centers if you want. Before newspapers that was were the locals got their news and that tradition still exists so ej is right; church is still accepted discussion. You will also be asked about where you are from and what you think of your visit, etc. It's not that the local is being nosy, they love to know who thought enough of their island to visit. Ask your hotel for an accredited guide that wont give you 40 questions and God. Once you know the island you can venture off on your own and expand your explorations. Hopefully you will fall in love with St. Kitts/Nevai and come back many times. Your schedule looked so chock full that my suggestion is to have a guide to get the most out of your tours in the short time you have.

Nevisian usually gives very accurate information but he/she is somewhat mistaken about the old Bath Hotel on Nevis. It has been refurbished and is now fully in use as government offices. I stopped in there a few months ago to conduct business with one of the officials.

As for the Jamestown ruins being visable to divers, that's pretty much a myth created by imaginative travel writers. I know of no one who's every actually seen anything in the water near where Jamestown was located except seagrass, a couple of rocks and an occasional star fish. Near where Jamestown was located there are ruins at Fort Ashby (a revetment and a powder room) but they are set back on fairly dry land behind a salt pond and are really not much to look at - the structure has been used on and off as a restaurant over the years and has been vacant for the past 2 or 3 years so if you are expecting anything resembling a fortress you'll be disappointed.

I do just want to make clear that my experience with the proselytizing taxi driver was an uncommon one and I don't expect it to happen to me again. the driver was very slow, and our circumnavigation of the island and its sights was agonizing with his constant talk of his conversion to Seventh Day Adventism and how it was the truth, the light and the way. We couldn't think of a polite way to change the subject so we mostly just made non-committal comments. It was rather uncomfortable! But that particular experience wasn't what made us start renting a car--we just preferred to do it that way for the freedom it gave us.

Thanks A_Traveller, I haven't been to Bath Road for years. I drive by the back of the hotel and see the three storey side boarded up. The last time I was in it, after the police moved to their new station downtown, the island goats had taken over the building. Local renovations take so long that I just wasn't paying attention. Were you able to tour the building?
Yes, ej, I figured it was 7th Day. They are very big in the islands. Our taxi drivers are cautioned not to do that to tourists but some can't help it; it's such a part of their lives. Just change drivers and let them know why. Drivers are available at all hotels around the islands so a visitor has the ability to switch if this were to happen.

Larz, here's a web stie for you on the Bath hotel http://www.tripadvisor.com/Travel-g147378-d150309/Charlestown:Nevis:Bath.Hotel.And.Spring.House.html It also notes Government house and the Hamilton Museum. Two other things I overlooked. FYI Alexander Hamilton's fathers warehouses are on the north side of downtown and are also being used by Gov't for chambers and as a museum. Cafe Des Arts is in the associated building next door and is a good place for a garden lunch. The other downtown lunch place would be Unella's on the waterfront. While you're downtown look in to the court house and it's upstairs library: still in use.

Nevisian - You can't really tour the Old Bath Hotel as it is now all functioning offices for various Ministries. You can walk around the grounds but it is really just a parking lot and you can go inside to the reception area. The rest is now offices and I doubt anyone would want strangers peeking into their work space.

... and visiting Gov't offices is something I'm satisfied to avoid. I'm happy that you, ej and all the others have such nice things to say about St. Kitts and Nevis. Larz - please post a report of your visit.

So, you're planning a trip to St. Kitts! Lucky you.

I love St. Kitts so much I go down every year! (It helps having family to stay with)

You might find the following website helpful. www.discover-stkitts-nevis-beaches.com

A tour of Brimstone Hill, Romney Manor, Ottley's Plantation is a must. I've heard lunch at Rawlin's is very good.

I haven't hiked the volcano in years, but last year I enjoyed the rainforest hike with Greg's Safaris www.gregsafaris.com

I would rent a car for a day or two (taxi's can add up).

For a tour of the island you can contact Thenford Grey www.thenfordgrey.com

St. Kitts isn't known as a dive or snorkel destination, but there is good snorkeling at Cockleshell.

If you want to be near town then Ocean Terrace Inn is an excellent choice. It is a small hotel, friendly staff, personalized service, complimentary shuttle to the beach, and I loved their Friday night West Indian Buffet and live steel band show.

If you want to be on the beach than definitely Timothy Beach Resort. It's located on the Caribbean (calm water) and next to all the fun beach bars www.ziggysbeachbar.com

If you go to Nevis you must check out Chevy's Beach Bar on beautiful Pinney's Beach. http://www.myspace.com/chevys_calypso_bar

When are you planning to go down? You can Link Up with other tourists and locals at Mr. X's Shiggidy Shack www.mrxshiggidyshack.com

Be sure to visit the new Reggae Beach Bar on beautiful Cockleshell Beach. It's the new home for Wilbur the 600 pound resident pig!

A new attraction in St. Kitts is a tour of the island by helicopter.

http://sunstkitts.com/paper/?asknw=view&asknw=view,view,view,view,view,view,view&sun=223818066411082007&an=210018088911072007&ac=Local

In St. Kitts, snorkle just South of the Timothy Beach Hotel. Or off of the Bird Rock Beach Hotel's beach (the best). You can see a lot of stuff from the old salt raking operation snorkeling White House Bay. This will include a couple of huge 17th century cannons. They are out about 50 meters from the pier and slightly to the North. To get there you will also have the pleasure of driving the South penisnula highway which is one of the best drives in the Carribean. You can climb Mount Nevis as well as Mount Liamuiga on St. Kitts.

Get a car. As far as visiting Charlestown, there's not much there. Better to take the circular road around the island and stop at some of the ruins of old plantations and some of the plantation inns. Visit Sunshines beach bar at Pinney's which is a world famous beach bar and you can say you were there, etc.

On St. Kitts, drive the South Peninsula Road. Visit Brimstone Hill. Eat at Sprat Net and Stonewalls or one of the restauraunts overlooking the circus. St. Kitts has good diving. Very pristine due to relatively low numbers of divers.

I stay at Timothy Beach and rent an apartment so I can do my own cooking. It's nice buy basic. No chocolate on the pillow at night. close to beach huts and golf.

OTI is nice as well but not on the beach.

vrt98z, I wish that we could spend a day together in Charlestown. There is a LOT to see if you know what your looking at and for. The next time you're over to Nevis ask for a guide to walk you through town. Try the Hamilton Warehouses ( now Govt. Chambers and Museum and Cafe Des Arts) and the Methodist Church, and the Jewish school where young Alexander Hamilton went to school because his parentage was in question and he wasn't accepted at the Chrsitian church schools, and the Jewish cemetery (the Jews held the secret for crystalizing sugar cane juice) and the Bath hotel, and the Cotton Ginnery, and the municipal fish and vegetable market - if only to gossip with the ladies, and the market across from the courthouse made out of a boat hull trusses, and the court house and library, Long building, Cotton Tree house, Alexandra Hospital... There is more here than meets the eye. A local guide could help you see it. A guide also helps find the hidden spots around the island like Nelson's Spring and Newcastle Pottery, The upper "Source" road, Indian Castle horserace track or even the crucifix with the Black Jesus. May I suggest http://www.nevisisland.com as a starting point to learn about Nevis? Come back soon.

If you are interested in renting a car while you are in St. Kitts you can contact Bulls Eye Car Rentals. www.bullseyecarrental.com

Thanks again for all of your suggestions and feedback. Initially, we were wondering if there was enough to see and do to fill 6 or 7 days. Sounds like there is enough to keep one busy for weeks! Regarding the Jewish cemetery, has the archeological dig nearby turned up any more information about whether the ruins are from a 17th century synagogue?
Regarding snorkeling and diving at White House Bay: what exactly was the salt raking operation? Canons from the 1600's! How far down? What else is there to see? Ever dive the the River Taw wreck? Are US dollars accepted in most places? What about credit cards? Thanks.

In bygone days the locals would produce salt by letting sea water evaporate in salt ponds (very shallow lakes of sea water) leaving deposits of sea salt. They would then "rake" the salt into piles and bring it to market.

At White House Bay you can see the ruins from some of the buildings as well as a jetty and other debris that are on the shore and submerged in shallow water just off the shore line. In that same bay, they discovered an old sailing vessel that had sunk 100's of years ago. It is covered over with silt but every once in a while the current moves the silt and you can see the remains of the wooden planks and hold of the shipship (I've seen it twice in 5 years of snorkeling). The wreck is located about 100 yards off shore in water that's less than 15 deep. Not too far from the wreck but closer to shore and about 8 feet below the surface and clearly visable on the sandy bottom are several old cannon and a few cannon balls.

Not sure if there hav benn any "new" discoveries at the Jewish Synagogue it depends what you mean by "new".

Yes, US dollars are widely accepted around the island however, some of the smaller vendors may give you change back in $EC. FYI - the exchange rate is $1US = $2.6882EC but vendors will give you anywhere between $2.65EC and $2.70EC to the dollar. Many stores & restaurants will mark prices in both currencies. If you see only one price it's probably $EC but when in doubt always ask. Credit Cards are also widely accepted on the island but again some smaller shops and a few restaurants only accept cash.

Hello again,
I've got a few more questions, as we fine-tune the itinerary. In addition to taxis and renting a car for a day or two - what about the minivans. I hear they are inexpensive, kind of fun(if you happen to like the particular tunes reportedly blasting from the speakers!) and circle the island, but do NOT go south(or is it east?)of Basseterre to the Frigate Bay area. What then is the best way to make use of the minivans? If we rent a car for one day, and get an early start from Frigate Bay, is it possible to drive around the island and see most of the major sights in the one day? Would it make sense to include a visit to Brimstone Hill Fortress as part of our tour, as it is on the way? Or - see it separately on another day - say when we visit Basseterre? Or - what about seeing Basseterre and the Rainforest tour on the same day? Decisions decisions! How is the 2-3 hour catamaran snorkel/barbeque trip? It looks like we should have about 6 full days to work with - one of which will be on Nevis. All suggestions welcome!
Thanks.

Lars, I don't think it is practical to do Basseterre and the rain forest tour in one day. Try Basseterre in the a.m. and Brimstone Hill/ Romney Manor after lunch. Most of the taxis on St. Kitts/Nevis are minivans. If you are renting a car why don't you take the Sea Bridge car ferry between the islands? http://www.discover-stkitts-nevis-beaches.com/seabridge-st-kitts-nevis.html
That way you'll have your own car on Nevis too. There's nothing wrong with the Frigate Bay area. Why would you stay clear of it? You might also look into the Sugar Cane Train around the island. http://photos.igougo.com/pictures-photos-l643-s1-p100921-Riding_the_St._Kitts_Sugar-Cane_Train.html By the way: on Nevis, visit Chevy's and Sunshines on Pinney's Beach. There is a new multi-million (U.S.) dollar resort being built in the area.

Hi Nevisian,
Sorry for the confusion. We are not avoiding Frigate Bay at all. It looks beautiful, and seems to have some good activities(scuba, snorkeling, kayaks, etc.) We are thinking of staying at the Timothy Beach Resort. Regarding transportation: I had read that the minivans that run around the island(like a commuter bus I suppose), as opposed to the taxis that can be hired for island tours - do not run between Frigate Bay and the rest of the island. So - if we wanted to visit Basseterre in the am, and Brimstone/Romney Manor after lunch - and we did not rent a car on that day(having rented it to do a leisurely island tour on a previous day)and did not want a guided tour - we would need to take a regular taxi from point to point?
Have any readers had a positive experience traveling the roads via scooter(in Bermuda it was fun, as long as we kept our distance from the limestone walls!)? Or are the roads to hilly, winding and narrow?

Lars,
I would recommend taking a taxi point-to-point. You can get a taxi to "the Circus" and spend the a.m. in Basseterre and then a taxi from Basseterre to Brimstone/Romney. Have the taxi wait for you. Find out the charge for the tour in advance ; there should be no "waiting charge". There are also plenty of taxis at both Romney and Brimstone. One reason to take this tour in the afternoon is if there is a cruise ship in that day. The island tours usually start in the a.m. for cruise ship travelers which leaves you less crowded and hurried in the afternoon. The cruise travelers tend to wonder Basseterre in the afternoons waiting to get back on the ship on time (4:00ish).

I was just thinking that you are going to have so many things to do that you're going to have to come back again to complete them! I pity the visitor who just wants to lay on the sand all day. You're destined to have a great time. Make sure you post the results of your trip. Don't forget to take off your watch when you arrive and put it in the room safe. The only thing you need to know is that sundown is at 6:30.

All very good information.
Rental cars are not allowed by the rental agencies to use the Sea Bridge.
Although the Captain, most likely, will let you pass.
If you rent on St Kitts, have an accident on Nevis in the same car, your insurance is void.

FYI:

Just received an e-mail from Bullseye Car Rentals regarding taking rental cars on the Sea Bridge.

"There is now a new and much easier way to take rental cars to Nevis.

The Ferry from the Peninsula that leaves every other hour does a great job. A few of my customers including myself have done so and it is easy."

Does that mean that they insure cars on both Nevis and St. Kitts? And other agencies don't?

CW

Nevis and St. Kitts are one Federation. My insurance is good on both islands. I can't imagine that a company with offices on both sister islands wouldn't have insurance for their fleet. Check with the individual rental agency and, of course, your hotel can help you. The citizens have been taking cars back and forth on the Sea Hustler for years.

I know that St. Kitts and Nevis are one country. I asked the question because reports on other forums from recent visitors said that insurance, from at least some rental agencies, did not cover rentals on both islands.

Doesn't make sense to me but I think it would be a good thing to clarify for visitors.

Perhaps resident insurance is different from rental cars? Maybe you could ask your on-island sources.

Thanks,

CW

Yes, personal car insurance will cover a privately owned vehicle on both islands.

"Insurance" on rental cars is a different product. It depends on what type of coverage the rental car company has in place which varies from company to company. Some rental car companies are "self insured" others have policies with varying limits, some might see this situation as a chance to charge you more for "extended coverage" and some just don't want you taking their cars to the adjacent island. That's why it's important for you have to check directly with the car rental company rather than rely on a blanket answer on an internet travel forum.

The point is visitors are renting cars in a foreign country and, if they get in an accident, especially one that results in major property damage or bodily injury or death to a third party, they could be in for major legal problems if they don't have proper insurance. The local courts won't accept a defense that claims "Well, I shouldn't be held liable because the contributors on the Fodors Travel Talk Forum said it was OK".

Use common sense, all you have to do is ask the rental car company whether or not they allow you to use the ferry.

I just spoke to Clarissa at Bullseye Car rental in St. Kitts: http://www.bullseyecarrental.com. I thought that I'd start on St. Kitts since most visitors come in through SKB. Bullseye, for one, does allow it's rental cars to use Sea Bridge. When (and if) I hear from the other agents I know I'll post it.

Thanks, Nevisian for taking the time to do this.

CW

You've just got to visit both islands to get the picture. And what a wonderful picture it is! Besides, the Sea Bridge is a real experience in and of itself! The rental agencies also arrange for your visitor's driving permit (about $68.00 U.S. with a valid driver's license from home).