ABACOS
Nov 28th, 2009, 03:01 PM
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ABACOS
After much forum and web searching, I think our family has decided on the Abacos for our summer 2010 vacation. Will most likely be travelling in August from NJ.
It seems like the Abacos are conducive to island hopping...however, we are not very experienced boaters. How difficult is it for relative amateurs to navigate and how accessible are the various cays?
Which would be the best cay to stay on,,,Looking for
1. Great snorkelling/diving
2. great beaches
3. Good and varied dining options
Any and all recommendations are appreciated. Thanks!
P.S. Snorkelling access does not have to be from the beach
It seems like the Abacos are conducive to island hopping...however, we are not very experienced boaters. How difficult is it for relative amateurs to navigate and how accessible are the various cays?
Which would be the best cay to stay on,,,Looking for
1. Great snorkelling/diving
2. great beaches
3. Good and varied dining options
Any and all recommendations are appreciated. Thanks!
P.S. Snorkelling access does not have to be from the beach
Nov 30th, 2009, 01:38 AM
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Could't agree with you more it's our dream world destination - we went last year and are going again for two weeks in Feb 2010.
Firstly - August is hurricane season (clearly). You play the usual chance game - get a direct hit and your holiday for 2 to 3 days will be turned upside down. Post hit any businesses will cease to trade. Get a brush with one and the weather will be difficult. Also bear in mind that due to the risk many busiesses start to close around this time.
Where to stay - Each Cay is VERY different. Elbow is quite New England, Man O War is like nowhere else, Great Guana is very American, Great Abaco is very local and GTC is a mix of all. We love Hopetown and I would look no further.
Hopetown : a range of around five decent restaurants, most of them are pretty good. You don't go to the Bahamas for the eating experience. Hopetown Hideaways and Elbow Cay Rentals cover a huge range of house rentals ranging from one bed at $800 a week to ... well around $15,000 for a palace. Avoid Ocean Breezes on Lubber Quarters - their deals look to good to be true - they are and the owners prey on tourists - just google Risbergs Abaco or London rentals. Stuff of legend on tripadvisor. Everyone else seems pretty honourable.
Snorkeling/reefs : the world is a place of trade offs. If you want decent dining and civilisation put simply you then trade off world class wildlife. People generally either drive away or kill everything in sight. The Abacos are high on the list of civilised areas that offer good and varied snorkeling. You will get better 50 miles away from towns on the East Coast of Africa but that's a different proposition. You'll see varied sealife eveywhere and the protected reefs of Fowl Cay and Pelican Sea Park are great. Stingrays, huge starfish, turtles, barracuda, nurse sharks and reef fish are everywhere. If you are lucky (we were) you may encounter bottle nose dolphin and reef sharks. Very, very (un)lucky maybe huge tiger, bull sharks. At the planning stage of our first visit our UK impression of the Bahamas was James Bond shark infested waters. You really do have to try hard to find them - Fowl Cay (outside) is a good bet. You have to try very hard to get into a dangerour situation with them. In two weeks we saw two baby reef sharks.
Boating : If you ever going to get into a boat with little experience this is the place to do it. The sea of Abaco is essentially one big swimming pool. It is very shollow (deepest around 20 feet) and effectively enclosed from the open ocean by the Cays. The hire companies do not allow you to take the boats into the ocean or out at night. In my view if you can drive a car you can use a boats in Abaco. The failsafe in ANY situation is remember you are in 20 feet of sandy bottom water. If in doubt or unsure STOP, throw the anchor out and relax, gather your thoughts and start again. The tides are smallish and there are sand banks about which vary with the tides - you can see them just keep watch. If you go aground you are not going to die - just call for an expensive tow or try to get it off yourself. The main danger with any boat in The Abacos is quite simple and very obvious - at the back there is a deadly weapon which will easily kill you, your family or anyone else in the water, Be careful when using the prop with people in the water and you will be fine.
Beaches : useless trying to list them - basically is you see sand - go and visit - most of them look like the centre fold of Conde Naste Travel.
People : mostly very friendly and VERY willing to help. Only had problems with Floridan multi millionaire types of like their lives to infringe on yours or are agressive if you go within 200 yards of their $3,000,000 gin palace. Locals are great and very calming. Walk down the street in Marsh Harbour and everyone says hello - even if (like us) you look like an out and out tourist.
All in all you will have to try very hard not to enjoy yourself.
Let me know if you would like any further information.
Firstly - August is hurricane season (clearly). You play the usual chance game - get a direct hit and your holiday for 2 to 3 days will be turned upside down. Post hit any businesses will cease to trade. Get a brush with one and the weather will be difficult. Also bear in mind that due to the risk many busiesses start to close around this time.
Where to stay - Each Cay is VERY different. Elbow is quite New England, Man O War is like nowhere else, Great Guana is very American, Great Abaco is very local and GTC is a mix of all. We love Hopetown and I would look no further.
Hopetown : a range of around five decent restaurants, most of them are pretty good. You don't go to the Bahamas for the eating experience. Hopetown Hideaways and Elbow Cay Rentals cover a huge range of house rentals ranging from one bed at $800 a week to ... well around $15,000 for a palace. Avoid Ocean Breezes on Lubber Quarters - their deals look to good to be true - they are and the owners prey on tourists - just google Risbergs Abaco or London rentals. Stuff of legend on tripadvisor. Everyone else seems pretty honourable.
Snorkeling/reefs : the world is a place of trade offs. If you want decent dining and civilisation put simply you then trade off world class wildlife. People generally either drive away or kill everything in sight. The Abacos are high on the list of civilised areas that offer good and varied snorkeling. You will get better 50 miles away from towns on the East Coast of Africa but that's a different proposition. You'll see varied sealife eveywhere and the protected reefs of Fowl Cay and Pelican Sea Park are great. Stingrays, huge starfish, turtles, barracuda, nurse sharks and reef fish are everywhere. If you are lucky (we were) you may encounter bottle nose dolphin and reef sharks. Very, very (un)lucky maybe huge tiger, bull sharks. At the planning stage of our first visit our UK impression of the Bahamas was James Bond shark infested waters. You really do have to try hard to find them - Fowl Cay (outside) is a good bet. You have to try very hard to get into a dangerour situation with them. In two weeks we saw two baby reef sharks.
Boating : If you ever going to get into a boat with little experience this is the place to do it. The sea of Abaco is essentially one big swimming pool. It is very shollow (deepest around 20 feet) and effectively enclosed from the open ocean by the Cays. The hire companies do not allow you to take the boats into the ocean or out at night. In my view if you can drive a car you can use a boats in Abaco. The failsafe in ANY situation is remember you are in 20 feet of sandy bottom water. If in doubt or unsure STOP, throw the anchor out and relax, gather your thoughts and start again. The tides are smallish and there are sand banks about which vary with the tides - you can see them just keep watch. If you go aground you are not going to die - just call for an expensive tow or try to get it off yourself. The main danger with any boat in The Abacos is quite simple and very obvious - at the back there is a deadly weapon which will easily kill you, your family or anyone else in the water, Be careful when using the prop with people in the water and you will be fine.
Beaches : useless trying to list them - basically is you see sand - go and visit - most of them look like the centre fold of Conde Naste Travel.
People : mostly very friendly and VERY willing to help. Only had problems with Floridan multi millionaire types of like their lives to infringe on yours or are agressive if you go within 200 yards of their $3,000,000 gin palace. Locals are great and very calming. Walk down the street in Marsh Harbour and everyone says hello - even if (like us) you look like an out and out tourist.
All in all you will have to try very hard not to enjoy yourself.
Let me know if you would like any further information.
Nov 30th, 2009, 06:56 PM
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Good advice from Markrosy but I disagree with one point and that is when he said the tides are smallish. It will not be an issue if you listen carefully to the boat rental people- but I think the tides can be very pronounced and can come twice a day as opposed to the one high and one low that we know here on our southern US coast. Be sure to pay attention to how they tell you to tie up to docks- they will have some "wrong" photos or drawings to illustrate that you must tie up loosely to allow for what can be 5' or more variation in water levels at high and low tides. Maybe it all depends on what you are accustomed to and what you consider differences in tides and water levels.
One more thing to consider- unless it has changed in the past few years, Man-O-War is a "dry" island with no liquor stores or alcohol served in restaurants (not that there are many restaurants). There has been some development since we were there so maybe it has changed. It is a very conservative place and you need to also remember to not be offensive with bathing suits without cover-ups, etc. in town. It is a beautiful and interesting place - be sure to visit but know it is a little different than some of its neighbors.
All of the Abaco cays are special and wonderful. I am sure you will have a great time. I do think Hopetown is a great place to start or even Green Turtle- do some reading and researching and see what suits you. www.abacoindex.com has lots of info and lots of links. www.abacoforum.com and coconuttelegraph.net are very active forums where you can get help also.
PS I live in "hurricane territory" so I wonder if you can travel in July instead of August because it might be a better choice. I have only been to the Abacos in August one time- May, June and July proved better for us. That said, I think the "high" hurricane season there is like the most prone time here - late August to mid October but you can get input from others to see what they think. You are probably safer in August than September or October. If you decide to go in August just buy trip insurance so you won't have to worry if you have to change your plans.
One more thing to consider- unless it has changed in the past few years, Man-O-War is a "dry" island with no liquor stores or alcohol served in restaurants (not that there are many restaurants). There has been some development since we were there so maybe it has changed. It is a very conservative place and you need to also remember to not be offensive with bathing suits without cover-ups, etc. in town. It is a beautiful and interesting place - be sure to visit but know it is a little different than some of its neighbors.
All of the Abaco cays are special and wonderful. I am sure you will have a great time. I do think Hopetown is a great place to start or even Green Turtle- do some reading and researching and see what suits you. www.abacoindex.com has lots of info and lots of links. www.abacoforum.com and coconuttelegraph.net are very active forums where you can get help also.
PS I live in "hurricane territory" so I wonder if you can travel in July instead of August because it might be a better choice. I have only been to the Abacos in August one time- May, June and July proved better for us. That said, I think the "high" hurricane season there is like the most prone time here - late August to mid October but you can get input from others to see what they think. You are probably safer in August than September or October. If you decide to go in August just buy trip insurance so you won't have to worry if you have to change your plans.
Dec 1st, 2009, 12:10 AM
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Thanks ishkribbl
Correctly corrected. The tides out of my home window can have a range of 26 feet. The bay which is 10 miles wide clears totally of water and it creates a bore wave.
I think at 3 - 4 feet I almost disregard the tidal range which is clearly not the thing to do for a new boater.
Correctly corrected. The tides out of my home window can have a range of 26 feet. The bay which is 10 miles wide clears totally of water and it creates a bore wave.
I think at 3 - 4 feet I almost disregard the tidal range which is clearly not the thing to do for a new boater.
Dec 1st, 2009, 11:22 AM
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ljv - just one other hint if you do hire a boat - in summer you will get huge downpours that last half an hour and then back to blue sky. No real issue as it is usually very warm and you will dry off in 5 minutes. If you are on the beach.
However, in a boat and if it is your first time, it can be VERY unnerving. Our first experience of this density of rain was on the ICW - here it was a problem as we outside the entrance of Pensacola Naval (air craft carrier) Base. In the Abacos if you do get worried the best idea by far is again anchor out engine off put your feet up and sit it out - visibility can get down to 50 feet which is very nerve testing.
However, in a boat and if it is your first time, it can be VERY unnerving. Our first experience of this density of rain was on the ICW - here it was a problem as we outside the entrance of Pensacola Naval (air craft carrier) Base. In the Abacos if you do get worried the best idea by far is again anchor out engine off put your feet up and sit it out - visibility can get down to 50 feet which is very nerve testing.
Dec 1st, 2009, 05:49 PM
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markrosy- you just gave me a great laugh (not at you but at life and it's been a day when I needed one) talking about the intercoastal at Pensacola. It is a very small world, I suppose. I live 40 miles from there and boy did we have one of those days today- rain like you wouldn't believe!! I did discover many, many years ago in Elbow Cay though that when you are snorkeling or diving you don't really know or care that it is raining- we had one week early on in our visits when it rained a good bit every day but we still had a great time- it is so hard to predict!!
ljv-
I hope you have a great trip! Don't miss getting a key lime pie from Vernon (ask anyone in Hopetown to point you there), going for lunch by boat to Pete's Pub in Little Harbour, walking around Man-O-War and seeing/snorkeling the beach at Guana (if you are not into the big wild Sunday pig roast thing then go on a weekday for lunch and to explore the island) and just sitting out on the patio of the Hopetown Harbour Lodge and having some conch fritters and an umbrella drink (I love Bahama Mamas myself) or an icy Kalik. It is such a fun place- wish I were there now instead of in a cold rain here!!
ljv-
I hope you have a great trip! Don't miss getting a key lime pie from Vernon (ask anyone in Hopetown to point you there), going for lunch by boat to Pete's Pub in Little Harbour, walking around Man-O-War and seeing/snorkeling the beach at Guana (if you are not into the big wild Sunday pig roast thing then go on a weekday for lunch and to explore the island) and just sitting out on the patio of the Hopetown Harbour Lodge and having some conch fritters and an umbrella drink (I love Bahama Mamas myself) or an icy Kalik. It is such a fun place- wish I were there now instead of in a cold rain here!!
Dec 2nd, 2009, 11:29 AM
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ishkribbl
I don't know how well you know the area but we chartered a 38 foot yacht from Ec sailing in Navarre. It was very sad as the following year we saw photos of the boat lying in woods 1.5 miles inland following Katrina.
We sailed down to Perdido Cay - there was an incredible anchorage at Fort McRee which formed a near swimming pool in which to anchor for the night - we caught all sorts of sealife in the lights and couldn't sleep because the dolphins were eating "bits" off the hull of the boat. I stayed up for the night of my life with allsorts turning up including one very very big bull/tiger? shark.
We then left the boat and drove to NO - loved Fairhope even if it was a little unreal.
Also loved the beach bars at Navarre beach - you can keep Sicily the piles of fried fish out did anything I have had in Europe.
I may have said this before but our plan is to take a break once our son goes to university - we will buy the biggest damn yacht our budget will allow in Maine and sail the ICW to Texas then down to Central America and up through the Carribean, Cuba and The Bahamas back over the Atlantic then keel over and die!!!! there will be nothing else to look forward to!
I don't know how well you know the area but we chartered a 38 foot yacht from Ec sailing in Navarre. It was very sad as the following year we saw photos of the boat lying in woods 1.5 miles inland following Katrina.
We sailed down to Perdido Cay - there was an incredible anchorage at Fort McRee which formed a near swimming pool in which to anchor for the night - we caught all sorts of sealife in the lights and couldn't sleep because the dolphins were eating "bits" off the hull of the boat. I stayed up for the night of my life with allsorts turning up including one very very big bull/tiger? shark.
We then left the boat and drove to NO - loved Fairhope even if it was a little unreal.
Also loved the beach bars at Navarre beach - you can keep Sicily the piles of fried fish out did anything I have had in Europe.
I may have said this before but our plan is to take a break once our son goes to university - we will buy the biggest damn yacht our budget will allow in Maine and sail the ICW to Texas then down to Central America and up through the Carribean, Cuba and The Bahamas back over the Atlantic then keel over and die!!!! there will be nothing else to look forward to!
Dec 3rd, 2009, 02:32 PM
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Markrosy- know the area well- we live in Mobile and I grew up on summer trips to Gulf Shores and Destin when they were sleepy two motel beach towns (pre-Frederic). My best friend (lives in N.O.) has a beautiful house on the far eastern edge of civilization on Pensacola Beach - totally destroyed in Ivan but finally rebuilt in 2008 and we have friends (also from N.O.) who had a townhouse in Navarre until Ivan got it, too, so we used to travel that beach road between them quite a bit. If finally reopened not so long ago from years of storm damage. We still go to Gulf Islands National Seashore quite a bit on day trips or when we are staying on Perdido Key at a friend's place there. The ruins of that fort cannot be reached by car and although we have walked some of the deserted miles from the end of the road at the park, we have never come close to it- I have seen the area from a distance by boat and you can see the land there from Ft. Pickens on the west tip of Pensacola Beach (that road is under sand again at this point I think) Some of our former favorite places on the coast, like Orange Beach and Destin, have become too overrun with people for us so now we head more towards Santa Rosa, Grayton and Seagrove- lovely places if you make a return visit. I think you and my husband have a similar life goal- he reads Southern Boating religiously and wants to buy a Grand Banks and escape to the islands after doing the great loop!
Sorry to hijack this thread- just had to answer. We love the out islands and so far have only stayed on Elbow (more than once), Lubber's, Green Turtle Cay, Marsh Harbour and Treasure just passing through for a night a few times, Eleuthera, Harbour Island, Long Island, Great Exuma and Staniel Cay. The day trips to Guana and Little Harbour are high on my list of fun places, too. Cat Island is my next plan. I think Abaco still holds my heart though- something about coming into that harbour and seeing the "Slow Down- You're in Hopetown" sign says it all - wish I was sitting outside at the HHL or Captain Jack's right now enjoying the view and the serenity!!
Virginia- hope you will love it as much as we do! have a great trip!
Sorry to hijack this thread- just had to answer. We love the out islands and so far have only stayed on Elbow (more than once), Lubber's, Green Turtle Cay, Marsh Harbour and Treasure just passing through for a night a few times, Eleuthera, Harbour Island, Long Island, Great Exuma and Staniel Cay. The day trips to Guana and Little Harbour are high on my list of fun places, too. Cat Island is my next plan. I think Abaco still holds my heart though- something about coming into that harbour and seeing the "Slow Down- You're in Hopetown" sign says it all - wish I was sitting outside at the HHL or Captain Jack's right now enjoying the view and the serenity!!
Virginia- hope you will love it as much as we do! have a great trip!
Dec 11th, 2009, 07:25 AM
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I have never been to the Bahamas or the out islands, but this sounds lovely. We love St John USVI and enjoy walk-in snorkeling. Can you snorkel off the beach in the Abacos? How does snorkeling compare to Virgin Islands? Thinking we'd like to try somewhere new this winter, and maybe it would be a bit easier to get to from Chicago. (Traveling to St John takes all day because you have to change planes in San Juan PR, which usually involves several hours wait in their airport). Then fly to St Thomas, then take ferry to St John.
Any info/advice is appreciated, and I will continue to read up and learn more...
Any info/advice is appreciated, and I will continue to read up and learn more...
Dec 11th, 2009, 11:07 AM
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You can snorkel here, there and everywhere. The reefs are all off the main beach of Elbow Cay (50m swim). The best reefs are in the Marine Nature Parks which are protected zones. The main joy of The Abacos is the ease at which you can use hired boats and their cost. We have a solid 19ft Albury booked for Feb 2010 - it cost us $500 a week which is the same as an SUV hire in the States. Other destinations such as SC/NC/GA or BC Canada can charge this much a day!
I can't compare with the BVI as I have never been but one thing I have always been told is that The Abacos are far quieter and far more laid back
You can snorkel here, there and everywhere. The reefs are all off the main beach of Elbow Cay (50m swim). The best reefs are in the Marine Nature Parks which are protected zones. The main joy of The Abacos is the ease at which you can use hired boats and their cost. We have a solid 19ft Albury booked for Feb 2010 - it cost us $500 a week which is the same as an SUV hire in the States. Other destinations such as SC/NC/GA or BC Canada can charge this much a day!
I can't compare with the BVI as I have never been but one thing I have always been told is that The Abacos are far quieter and far more laid back
Dec 15th, 2009, 02:15 PM
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Abaco is far quieter and more laid back. I think that's what I like about it so much. And, boating plays a large part in the enjoyment of the area. The cays are close together and the protected Sea of Abaco makes it easy for novices to enjoy a safe boating experience. Rentals are easy to come by but reserve ahead as they sell out in busy times.
It is difficult to get to some of the out islands as they have few flights per week. I cannot get there in one day but it is worth the hassle for me as there is nothing like them. Few or no hotel chains, local businesses only, quirky hours, island time (of course) and very friendly locals that make the travel hassles all worth while. For me, the out islands are about the most beautiful stretches of white sand beach set against tranquil turquoise waters, and meeting at the local watering hole at the end of a perfect day to mix with locals and other travelers.
I haven't found the snorkeling to be as good as the Virgin Islands but there are areas that will certainly offer enjoyment and most definitely less people.
Winter months can still be chilly. We go farther south in the winter months, preferably the Grenadines.
It is difficult to get to some of the out islands as they have few flights per week. I cannot get there in one day but it is worth the hassle for me as there is nothing like them. Few or no hotel chains, local businesses only, quirky hours, island time (of course) and very friendly locals that make the travel hassles all worth while. For me, the out islands are about the most beautiful stretches of white sand beach set against tranquil turquoise waters, and meeting at the local watering hole at the end of a perfect day to mix with locals and other travelers.
I haven't found the snorkeling to be as good as the Virgin Islands but there are areas that will certainly offer enjoyment and most definitely less people.
Winter months can still be chilly. We go farther south in the winter months, preferably the Grenadines.
