*Intro*
If you’ve stopped in random places along the Québec autoroutes between Montréal and Québec, you might start to believe that the towns and villages of la Belle Province have about as much charm as a rest stop/exit on the New Jersey turnpike only en français, with casse-croûtes (greasy spoons) selling steamés (a glorified garnished hot dog) at some, or a blend of car dealerships, Walmarts and McDonald’s at others.
*Biking to Chambly*
Yesterday, I put on my bike helmet and set off across the cyclist portion of the Jacques Cartier bridge, probably the toughest part of entire ride, what with two parabola to surmount… quite a vertigo-inducing experience despite the protective railing. The Jacques Cartier bridge path deposits one on boulevard Lafayette in Longueuil, on which one can cycle 4 blocks away from the water so as to join up with one of the Route Vertes, the extensive system of cycling paths that criss-cross many areas of the province. From here, one is on Route Verte #1, bike path, all the way to Chambly.
The Route Verte path at first a designated lane of the road through suburban Longeuil, but before long there’s a path separate altogether from traffic. It was really quite something to start in urban Montréal to pass through the mega-suburbia that is Longueuil/St.Hubert and then perhaps an hour-and-a-half from starting point to find oneself (on mostly empty path, few fellow cyclists) in forest and countryside. About 2/3 of the 40km distance to Chambly, the back wheel started giving me trouble, mysteriously going clankity-clank when I would pedal and in my utter incompetence in bike repair, I thought “uh-oh”, but I managed to (somewhat noisily) push along to Chambly.
*Chambly itself*
The initial vision of Chambly was unprepossessing, with a roaring, not-so-unheavily trafficked main road to behold with car dealerships, a vision not unlike the autoroute exits I was bemoaning earlier (and perhaps all some know of Chambly). However, after a lunch at a Tim Horton’s, whose employees’ advice lead me to a 15-minute pitstop at a thankfully nearby bicycle repair shop, I and my sounding-good-as-new bike continued to the waterfront area.
Quickly after the striking Hôtel de Ville, the Richelieu River became visible, which provided a beautiful panoramic view with a silver-steepled church at left, a marina at right, and Mont-Saint-Hilaire and Mont-Saint-Bruno prominently visible in the distance across the water. A few restaurants overlook the Richelieu and waterfront activity is available such as kayaking and canoeing. As for me, I pedaled appreciatively past all of these, crossed the canal de Chambly and stopped by the Fort de Chambly. This ended in a magnificent way to spend an hour… reading my book, looking out at some rapids of the Richelieu (Saint-Bruno in background), while sitting in a leafy green park (courtesy of Parks Canada) next to a beautiful stone fort. A quick cycle beyond the fort was also in order, revealing some well-preserved, handsome homes where some of the upper echelon of the military once lived and perhaps the most charming former boulangerie I’ve seen in Québec.
Anyhow, Chambly, although perhaps on the cusp of being called a Montréal suburb, just might offer that peaceful Québec village ambience that many of you visitors of la Belle Province have wished to experience, but somehow have not been able to find.
… And thankfully, travel time is such that it would be an ideal day trip from the city.
Happy travelling, Daniel
Want A Charming QC Village You’ve Imagined? Try Chambly (by Bike Even!)
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Hi
Funny enough, as a curious friend of mine looked up Chambly on Wikipedia, I couldn't believe that the photos showed the exact bench I sat on as I read my book, looking out at the water (Fort Chambly photo)! I included the other Wikipedia photos to give a sense of Chambly's charm.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Fort-Chambly-Quebec-2002.JPG
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Eglise_Saint-Joseph-de-Chambly.jpg
http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fichier:Ecluse_de_Chambly.jpg
I wanted to add that while Chambly is the latest small Quebec community that's seduced me... that there are others out there (some I've reported on in the past) peppering the province beyond Montreal and Quebec City; in la Belle Province, dig for charm and ye shall find!
Daniel
Thanks for posting Daniel! Chambly looks like a great spot!
How would I get there from the Victoria Bridge?
Thanks.
Syl
Sorry to say but I haven't any idea (the best ways by bike or by car)!
Daniel
Enjoyed your short report. Thanks.
From the Victoria Bridge: http://tinyurl.com/l8gtnj
From Chambly, you can go to Waterloo and back riding on different trails. There's a short stretch on highway 112 to Marieville but the shoulders are huge once out of town of Carignan.
You can ride to Quebec city almost exclusively on bike trails.
Thanks for showing the pathway Erick_L! I may try going that way next time since I must say going over the Jacques Cartier Bridge isn't exactly a piece of cake! Incidentally, for anyone else who sees his map, the route I travelled met up with Erick's bike path where it hit route #112 all the way to Chambly.
Chambly and Oka (combined with commuter rail) from Montreal are as much as I've taken on; full day affairs at my pace. Maybe I'll try Waterloo, Granby or Saint-Jean one of these days with an overnight...
Thanks again Erick! DANIEL
The Granby area is great. Lots of paved trails to Lac Boivin nature center and Yamaska park (http://www.sepaq.com/pq/yam/en/). The park has a bike campground but it's expensive and there are no showers or water. For about the same price, there's another "walk-in" site close to services and beach.
The trail via Farnham is a little boring but it beats the road. Make sure you have water. I prefer the Marieville trail.
The way the trail goes through Granby, you're in and out of town quickly and might find yourself short of water. In Granby, the trail passes in front of a Mcdonald's and bike shop. There are many other stores and restaurants just behind that.
A few pics in and around Yamaska park:
http://www.borealphoto.com/photos/313778508_PCc6H-XL.jpg
http://www.borealphoto.com/photos/313773733_LBbCD-XL.jpg
http://www.borealphoto.com/photos/313786719_LWwqo-XL.jpg
Re-hello
I just visited Chambly again on the occasion of my parents visiting from the Washington, D.C. area (by car this time) and wanted to add that I felt the Fort de Chambly, run by Parks Canada, was well-worth the $5.85 admission (I did not go inside when I was there last month). The exhibits look at the strategic importance of Fort and Chambly in general for protection from Iroquois, English and later U.S.A. incursions, with numerous artifacts and full-size models illustrating life during the fort's heyday (1600s, 1700s and earlier 1800s). I think those who enjoy colonial American history will appreciate these and the 10-15 minute film at the end.
Cheers, Daniel
PS Thanks Erick for the Granby area suggestions and I appreciated the photos of Yamaska Park.