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Trip Report Site seeing and Eating our way through Montreal and Quebec City.

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Our 2011 leaf-peeping trip to New England (first time) began with a late September flight from our central California home to Burlington, VT, with two stops. (I booked this flight early and got a great price through Expedia. Much better than an open jaw starting in Montreal.) After a night in Burlington, we drove north out of Burlington stopping at the Ethan Allen museum. For some reason I can’t remember now, we decided not to go in. We observed through grey skies that the trees were showing almost no color. Will this be the year of bad colors? We wondered.

Our chosen route was through the Champlain Islands, which I was curious about. I knew we were at the end of the summer, but I didn’t expect to see the area so empty of people. It seems quite remote. Grand Isle has some impressive residences and summer facilities. But the farther north we got, especially on North Hero Island and then Alburg, it became very agricultural and rural in nature. It was a beautiful drive, interesting, and tranquil. But I don’t think I have to go there again. DW was totally unimpressed.

The weather? Grey and rainy. The only fall color we saw was grey.

Hotel: Auberge Vieux-Port
We continued north out of Alburg on a narrow road through seemingly deserted farm land. After making a couple of jogs, we finally hit the 10 southeast of Montreal, got on it and in a few miles, crossed the river and found our hotel, the Auberge Vieux-Port quite easily from the directions on their web site. This is a really nice hotel in an old stone building in old Montreal, on rue de la Commune Est, overlooking the port area. We weren’t disappointed with this one. The desk staff was over the top friendly and helpful with directions, restaurant reservations, advice, smiles and humor. The valets and others were also very friendly.

They had a full bar, nice seating areas, and a free wine or beer was offered, in addition to cocktails for a price. We toasted our being there, as the trip was in serious doubt due to some family issues. But we made it.

The room was large enough so that we weren’t crowded. Bathroom was modern and well appointed, with lots of different lotions and gels, etc. Terrycloth robes and slippers were nice. Our double windows opened inward. Street noise was not an issue, as Commune quiets down after about 6. They have umbrellas to borrow, which we did.

Early in the morning I would go down to the breakfast room and get DW her morning coffee. Takes her a while to get going in the morning. Later, the breakfast, included, was great. Eggs cooked to order and assorted breads, yogurts, muesli, fruits, etc. We took all our breakfasts in the hotel. No reason to go anywhere else. I can’t say enough about this hotel. It was great.

Upon arrival, we were hungry for something light, and the concierge sent us to Crème de la Crème, a small café a block or so west. What a great little soup and sandwich place. The soup and quiche of the day were excellent. We walked around some, up pedestrian only rue Bonsecours. It was not crowded. Many café’s along this area. Our concierge told us, however, only so-so food and quite expensive.

DW and I like fine dining. Especially French cooking. So we decided that our time in Canada would feature culinary adventures with French cuisine every night. So maybe this report should be labeled an "Eating report." Our concierge recommended the first of our trip.

Aix Cuisine du Terrior. Turned out to be our least favorite. The menu was impressive, service just average, and some of the dishes were not quite the top. DW’s Halibut was excellent, but my duck was dry and tough. The starter was a hard to cut seared foie gras. The green apple in the dish was a bit before it’s time, and very hard to cut. Desert was a pear upside down cake, with two tiny little slices of pear on a “cake” that tasted and seemed more like a cookie. Would not recommend that restaurant, though could have been chef’s bad day, or day off.

Weather? Grey and rainy. Cold and windy. We actually took a taxi the four blocks to this restaurant due to the rain. We were able to walk home.

The second day was for site seeing. We visited the jaw-dropping Basilique Notre-Dame-de-Montreal. This church rivals Notre Dame in Paris and the church in Prague for sheer grandeur. It is beautiful inside, yet very peaceful and serene. The woodwork is incredible. We spent a lot of time here, just wandering around, sitting and absorbing. There is a small admission fee.

We also spent some time in the Musee d’Archeologie et d’Histoire Pointe-a-Calliere. There is a 18 minute multi-media presentation that whisks you through the history of Montreal from about 13,000 BC to the present. The headphones attached to the seats feature a dial on which you specify which language. We learned a lot of the history of Montreal and the Quebec area; the wars with the Indians, French, British and Americans. Stuff I remembered vaguely from school, but had forgotten. Very interesting to review again. We were to be exposed to more history in Quebec City.

The building sits on top of ongoing archeological digs, which one can tour through a self guided series of numbered stations with posters in French and English. When we came out, we were several blocks away from out starting point. Very interesting and informative.

We were very close to Crème de la Crème, so went there again for lunch. Then we continued on along the landscaped port area in front of our hotel to the huge market building. Many upscale shops inside were of interest, especially the winter clothing, furs, and Indian made clothes and other items. DW is not a shopper, so after a cursory looksee, off we went.

Nearby were several buildings of historical interest. Throughout Montreal, we used our Fodor’s Montreal and Quebec City 2011 guidebook, along with stuff from the hotel. We concentrated on the old town. The cobble stone streets were narrow, the buildings old stone and brick construction. We checked off most of the items of interest in the Fodor’s book, and headed back to the hotel to get out of the wind and cold.

After our so-so experience at Aix the previous night, DW appointed herself our restaurant guide, and had poured over dining options for our remaining nights. She choose two of the Fodor’s “Choice” restaurants for our last two nights. We had left those choices with our concierge, before we went out on our site seeing. When we returned, we learned that this night we would dine at Verses.

Verses. This place was really good. Great ambiance and presentation of the dishes. DW raved about the salad, which we shared; a “diabolic mesclun, crispy parmesan, pecan crumble.” She had lobster with artichoke hearts, wild ginger bisque and confiit fennel. I had Wapiti (Elk) medallions with roasted parsnip and butternut squash with a honey-pear reduction (Excellent). Our shared chocolate mousse desert was dynamite. Recommend this place.

Our last full day, which was supposed to be clear, was miserable. So instead of taking public transportation, we decided to drive to Parc Mont Royal. An early explorer visited here, guided by some Indians. He named it Mont Royal, from which Montreal gets it’s name. What a beautiful area. Too bad it was so windy and rainy. There are many hiking trails and a beautiful setting.

We drove the road a couple of times, noting some fall colors were starting, finally parking in the lot near Maison Smith (The Smith House, 1860), where you can get a map of the park and other park information, and walked the short distance to the overlook. The views were dynamic, but with the wind whipping up the mountain, it was bitter cold. The sky was grey, and it was sprinkling. The big lodge up there is impressive. It is totally empty, but there are a few food vending machines. Back at Maison Smith we warmed up with a terrific soup of the day and a very good BLT.

We drove around the McGill College area as well as the University of Montreal and got lost in a residential area around the university of beautiful (and obviously expensive) homes. We also got caught up in a monumental traffic jam just out the east entrance to the park, and marveled at the 3 and 4 story walk-ups with exterior stairways in that neighborhood. Inside the car it was nice and warm.

We ended up at the botanical gardens, close to 4 pm. But it was too cold and rainy for us, so we did not pay the $16.50 admission. Just used their restrooms and went to the hotel. Another day in Montreal would have been nice to spend in the botanical gardens, if the weather had been a little better. It is a huge facility, and from what we could see, quite beautiful.

Driving in the city wasn’t too bad. I only got turned around 3 or 4 times, made only one illegal turn, and at one point the Lady Navigator threw the map in the back seat and pouted. Dinner that night was our remaining Fodor’s “Choice,” Chez L Epicier.

Chez L Epicier, our favorite of the three in Montreal. Our concierge got us a reservation at this very popular restaurant, bagging the last two seats at the bar. Turned out wonderful, as the bartender was a conversationalist, along with diners on each side of us. We had a delightful time here. The food: Amazing. Presentation: Wow! We both had a lobster dish featured as a special for the night. “Quebec lobster with aromatic butter garlic dill sauce. Paprika froth, salsify and herb potatoes.” I had a “Mars Bar” for desert, a concoction of chocolate ice cream, and various sauces. DW had a “Maple and Lemon Crisp donut stick.” Impossible to describe (but certainly not a donut), and very good. Recommend this place most highly.

NOTE: Fodor’s restaurant map shows this restaurant incorrectly west instead of east rue St-Paul.

Our last morning in Montreal, I left the hotelier a tip for the staff (haven’t done that very often but they were really helpful), got some directions and easily found 40 est to Quebec City. Can’t tell you how long this trip took, cause we stopped a couple of times at the handy service areas that are located every so often along the way. Much of the way featured thick forest on both sides of the mostly divided highway. Fall colors were beginning, but were mutted by the grey skies and constant rain for mostly the whole distance. Our culinary adventure was mutted as well, and we settled for A&W burgers and fries, but DW and I rejected those fries with the gravy.

Quebec City will follow.

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    Hello BillJ,

    Sorry the weather was not co-operating in Montreal. Sounds like you hit some good restaurants in our fair city (none of which I've been to, so taking notes!). Looking forward to hearing your Quebec City experiences.

    Best wishes, Daniel

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    Thanks, Daniel. You got some wonderful restaurants down there in old town, for sure!

    Now for Quebec City:

    We followed the directions from our hotel’s web site around the north of the Quebec City, and found our way to the hotel with little difficulty. The hotel has a parking lot, $21 per day (if I remember right). We did not do any site seeing this afternoon, just rested in the room before dinner.

    Our hotel was Hotel Germain Dominion in old town. We had room 206, a corner room looking out south and east. We could see the tops of cruise ships over the buildings. We could also see numerous flags flying straight out in the significant wind, which along with rain and cold, continued to plague us. Hotel staff was very happy to see us and made us feel very welcome. We got a tour of the public area and learned about the breakfast. Then, inexplicably, we were not shown to our room, but given the key and pointed toward the elevator. OK, I’m sorry. I can carry my own luggage, not that big a deal. It was just a bit unexpected, and maybe I’m nitpicking. I would still recommend this hotel.

    Concierge and desk staff were always ready to help with restaurant recommendations and reservations, as well as touring directions. We enjoyed our 4 nights here, as the room was large, with lots of seating. Decorated in modern décor, the bathroom was large and very clean. Lots of lotions. Robes. Nice. The breakfast was a buffet of breads, bagles, jams, muesli, etc., perfect for DW. Hard boiled eggs were also available. Breakfast time featured lots of conversation with other travelers, a feature we look forward to in hotels like this.

    We were ready for an early and reasonably simple dinner, so DW, our self-appointed restaurant guide, picked Café du Monde, just a short walk out to the docks. We sat next to a window that looked out on the seaway and watched a few ships pass before it got dark. DW had a steak with fries, and I had a scallop pasta kind of dish, both very tasty. DW’s deserts were a “trio” of ice creams, and I had profiteroles, one of my favorites. This restaurant is more informal, and the cooks are very visible from the restaurant. A fun place.

    The next day, our first day on the ground in Quebec City, featured wind and rain and cold, which we were getting used to. Once in a while the sun would peek through, or we’d get a glimpse of blue sky, but the weather continued gnarly. We continued to note very little color in the trees. 4 cruise ships were in town, so the small sections of old town were pretty crowded. Probably not as bad as it could have been, as many passengers stayed on board due to the weather.

    DW made sure we got to each of the “Top Attractions” of old town in the Fodor’s guidebook. Walking around in the narrow cobblestoned streets was a treat. The Place Royal is a neat little square, with a charming little church with the model of an old sailing ship hanging from the ceiling. I bought a really warm wool hat at one of the shops along the way as we found our way to the funicular. The shops around the funicular area were especially fun to poke around in.

    We rode the funicular up to the Chateau Fontenac and wandered through their lobby and grounds. A beautiful old hotel, but not to our liking. As we walked out on the Terrasse Dufferin toward the Citadelle, it really began to rain, which brought an end to our site seeing day as we hussled back to the funicular, and back to a warm hotel room. We were starting to wonder if this weather would ever break. We had another ten days on our trip.

    Panache. Our meal tonight was this highly regarded Fodor’s “Choice” located in the Auberge St-Antoine. The restaurant itself is in part of an old warehouse from the 1700’s, with exposed wood beams and wooden floors. Very impressive. The starters and main course were excellent. Banana nut squash soup and a scallop dish with toasted almonds and cauliflower, followed by a scallop dish for DW and a very delicate and tasty halibut for me. Deserts however, left us wanting. She had a white chocolate mousse with rasberries and, strangly, sweet corn added on top, which did not seem to match well. I had a plate of 4 different sorbets with some cookies. Pretty ordinary. We’d have done very well to forget the deserts. Definitely recommend this restaurant, though.

    The next day, we got in the car preferring to be in the warmth of the car and drove east just a few miles to Montmorency Falls. At the entry booth to the parking lot, we also bought tickets for the gondola ride to the top ($26 entry and gondola). No way were we walking up a very intimidating stairway off on a distant cliff side. Might be fine for the younger crowd.

    The gondola takes you to the top providing wonderful views of the St Lawrence Seaway and the ile d’Orleans, though again, clouds and swirling wind dampened our spirits. The weather broke a little bit and allowed us to go out on the bridge over the falls. Awesome and well worth the trip. You can also drive up there from somewhere. At the top is an old resort hotel where we had lunch and warmed up.

    Back in the car, we crossed over to Ile d’Orleans. What a treat this turned out to be. We drove through quaint little clusters of well maintained homes and buildings and found the Auberge La Goeliche in the village of Ste-Ptronille, where we stopped for lunch. The dining room is located right on the bank of the seaway, and the waves, whipped up by the wind, were splashing over the sea wall onto the adjacent walk way. The ladies waiting on us were older, and very friendly. We felt very warm and welcome. We got to peek into one of the rooms. It is quite an old building, but the room looked well appointed.

    After lunch we backtracked to Chocolaterie de Ile d’Orleans, much heralded and deservedly so. Oh, wow, we bought a few ounces of incredible Belgian chocolates to help get us through the rainy days ahead.

    From the west end of the island, we headed east along the southern coast, intending to take the first road back to the bridge, and back to our hotel. However, we missed that road, and we were glad we did. As we continued east, buildings became more sparse, and the land became intensely agricultural. In fact, we later learned that almost all of the beautiful vegetables in the Farmer’s Market near the old port come from this island.

    It was charming and quaint and fun to be out there. Near the town of St-Laurent we pulled into a dock area to watch a couple dozen crazies out on the river wind surfing. They were in wet suits, but still, in winds I guessed to be about 20-30 knots or so, had to be cold. They were having a lot of fun with the waves, catching a lot of “air,” and getting very close to passing freighters.

    Along the road we stopped at an art shop with many items on consignment from local artists. Paintings, sculptures, glassware, metalware. Lots of stuff that looked really creative. The island is known for this kind of thing, but mostly it was closed down, as we were definitely past “the season.”

    We finally cut over the top of the island at St-Jean, and the road over the top was very narrow and hard packed dirt surface in places, but not a problem. It went through agricultural fields as well as groves of trees starting to show some colors. This day was a real treat for us to see the falls and this wonderful little island. During the summer, it is clear they have a lot of things for tourists, like roadside apple stands, and more art stores are open. All the homes are beautifully maintained, painted mostly bright white, with lots of bright green lawn.

    Back in Quebec City, or dinner tonight would be at Restaurant l’Eschaudé, just an outstanding experience. We started with escargot with tarragon meshlun and halibut fritters with garlic mayo. The main dishes were cotelette agneau; lamb chops with feta peppers for DW. I had one of the best pheasant dishes I have ever had. It was served with zucchini and beets, and a wonderful sauce. Our deserts were an apple pastry with rosemary ice cream. DW’s autumn custard had a cheddar ice cream with it. While everything about this place is terrific, I think cheddar ice cream may be an acquired taste. Recommend this place highly.

    On our last full day in Quebec City, with more wind and rain, we got back in the car and drove up to the Citadel and drove around in the Plains of Abraham also known as Battlefield Park. Beautiful grounds and lovely views, and we got some blue sky, but still windy and cold. We drove around some in Upper town, and though we were fighting the traffic, enjoyed the warmth of the car.

    Up in the walled part of the city, we parked near Place de Hotel De Ville, and walked down to rue St-Jean, and had a great lunch at Café Boulangerie Paillard (in the Fodor’s guide). DW got her soup fix of the day, and I got a wonderful made to order turkey club sandwich. Oh, did I mention, they also have a to die for bakery, with all sorts of dangerous goodies. Yes, we bought some for our desert. Uhmmm!

    Laurie Raphaël Restaurant – Atelier-Boutique. Our final gastronomic feast ended up being the best dining experience of the entire week in Canada. In fact, among the best we have ever had. Like all the others, just a short walk from our hotel. Their incredible menu (viewable on their web site) features several starters, entrees and deserts, ala carte, many of which interested us. However, after reviewing our options, we went for the “gourmet menu,” a 10 course adventure in culinary excellence. (All at the table (just two of us) have to have this, if anyone does. Each course was small enough so that after dinner, we were not stuffed and feeling miserable. A wine pairing is also available.)

    So here were the courses we enjoyed that evening. Halibut tartere, foie gras with pistachio nuts and pear, strawberries and basil scallops tartare, zucchini strips stuffed with goat cheese, halibut with vanilla sauce, lentils, duck breast with beets of many colors (sliced so thin as to be transparent), matsutake ice cream and forest steam. Those were the first eight.

    The ninth course was awesome. Fresh strawberries, vanilla ice tube, French toast ice cream served in a small dish placed over a larger dish that had dry ice and juniper berry water in it. The effect was that the dry ice vapors spilled out of the lower dish and swirled around on the table, eventually cascading over the edge of the table. We stared in awe at this presentation, and people around us stopped talking to gawk.

    Then the grand finale. On the menu it simply says “Apple Crumble.” But it was oh, so much more than that. On a large dish, pears slices in caramel sauce and slices of an apple crumble. And in the middle, a large ball of white chocolate mousse frozen in liquid nitrogen. The ball was about 4 inches across and the same high. We just stared at it with our mouths agape. Not knowing exactly what to do next, the waiter came back and with a knowing smile tapped it with a knife and it shattered into a zillion pieces. We were totally blown away by this restaurant.

    What a fitting and memorable end to our Canadian French gastronomic excursion. As you might guess, we recommend this restaurant most highly and enthusiastically.

    That was it for Quebec City and Canada. A beautiful old city to walk around, though good weather would help. The next day we headed out for the second phase of our leaf-peeping trip; Northern Vermont and New Hampshire. But first, we had to drive through the lovely and wondrous area known as the Eastern Townships.

    So far, I was pleased with my trip plan (except for the weather of course). But here I realized I made a mistake. I should have stayed a night here in the townships somewhere, like probably Magog. What a neat area at the top of Lake Memphregog. We did stop in Magog (pronounced May-gog) and got a great Italian meal for lunch on their cute little old town Main Street, and enjoyed some lake views near the tourist information center, where we picked up a map of the area and other information.

    Then we continued south and west, visiting the Abby St-Benoit du Lac. A beautiful old abby with much history. There were few tourists there, the buses had left, and there was a monk playing the huge old organ. It was really a magical moment. But ok, back in the car, and off we go. Have to make Newport tonight.

    Here’s where the Lady Navigator put us off schedule. She was truly enthralled by the area, so off we go to see Knowlton, Lac Brome, and other little villages like Sutton. And what treats they were. I’m glad we did this, even though it made us late getting into our next stop. During the American Revolution, many colonists did not want to split from the crown, and fled to this area. Most of these villages were founded at that time.

    I would think in the summer, these villages are active spots. Many huge beautiful homes especially along the shore of Lac Brome, with large bright green lawns leading down to the water, or heavily fenced and forested lakeside estates. But now, late season, things are pretty quiet.

    Weather is clearing a little, and what? Actually a little warm. Wow! We are seeing some significant color in the trees. Yes, a night in this area would have been an excellent idea.

    We found our way to the crossing into Vermont on Rte 139 south out of Sutton (a few cars in front of us; border guard asked lots of questions, opened the trunk, and the suitcases), picking up 105 in Richford, Vermont. This is where this part of our trip report will end. We spent the next week in Vermont and New Hampshire chasing colors and enjoying the small villages and attractions offered there. Our gastronomical adventure was over for the most part, and new pursuits begin. I will post the next part of our trip on the US board of Fodor’s Forums.

    We have been wanting to go to Montreal and Quebec City for a long time, and finally had the chance. The weather tried to spoil it for us, but we enjoyed our time there. There's a lot of history, great attractions, and yes, wonderful restaurants.

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    Glad you enjoyed your time in Quebec City too and found some good restaurants there too; too bad again about the weather. Magog is charming, I do agree, and is a good stop in the Eastern Townships region (good area for leaf-peeping).

    Best wishes, Daniel

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    Being a Montrealer by birth and still living only 2 hours away I have never before bothered reading a trip report to the area... I'm glad I read yours! Thanks for sharing it.

    I live in the Ottawa Valley and I thought the colours this fall around here were very lacklustre. You'll have to come back! ;^)

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    Thanks for the report and wonderful food descriptions from the restaurants. Hubby and I also did leaf peeping trips to Canada (last year) and to New England (in 2008) so reading your report (as well as the one you posted on the US board) brought back some good memories. We loved Panache and Café du Monde in QC and would definitely return there. Your last two courses at Laurie Raphaël Restaurant sounded incredible. We'll have to check out their menu and maybe try them, too, if we return to QC.

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    Thanks for your great report. We really enjoyed reading it, as we were in Quebec City, possibly a few days after you. (see our report) Our experiences were similar: chilly, rainy weather, but enjoyed the uniqueness of the city, its history, restaurants, etc. and intend to return. We were in Montreal a few years ago, so enjoyed re-living that experience through your report. Following our stay in Quebec, we traveled south to New Hampshire, and began to experience glorious days and beautiful color, similar to what you describe. Glad you had a great trip, as did we. Thanks again for the report!

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    We went to Chez L Epicier, based on your post above. It was manifique! A Friday evening dinner crowd had already descended upon the place. We were whisked to our quaint table for two and the great experience began. It was crowded and the scene was lively as the waitstaff hurried about trying to keep up with pace of the kitchen.

    I ordered the lobster bisque and then the osso bucco. My partner had the medley of mushrooms a la Rockefeller (served in an oyster shell) topped with Hollandaise sauce. For the main dish it was the grilled tuna (we grilled it ourselves at the table). All I can say is it was excellent-- both the inventiveness of the recipes and the presentation. But most of all the flavors! I highly recommend this restaurant. Thanks for the post! Montreal J'taime! Msfaz.

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    Bill J, just catching up with trip report reading. Enjoyed the details of your report on Montreal. Although we've visited in the past, on a future visit we'll check out a few of your leads. As mentioned in our post of Quebec, we must have almost crossed paths there. Let's hope that for our next visits, the weather is better.

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    Perct timing to find this as my husband wants to take me to Quebic city the first week of Dec. He has a business meeting so he wants to make a long weekend getaway.

    I really enjoyed your report and description of the restaurnants.

    I know it will be super cold in Dec - but I will just dress warm! Hoping to take a carrige ride under a big wool blanket!

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