We are coming from Vancouver and plan to take the ferry (with a car) around the gulf islands. I know about traveling west to east (east being free), but am not sure how to accomplish this as ferry travel through there looks north/south rather than east/west. Are there any bridges or must travel be all by ferry? Best island for "base camp" with day trips on foot ferry to other islands? We have only been to Salt Spring Island, loved it, and want to explore the other islands.
We were actually hoping to begin at the southern tip of Whidbey and drive north to depart from Anacortes. This is all new to me, so any help is SO appreciated!
Sidney, Pender, Galiano, Saturna - best route?
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My first recommendation is to study the BC Ferries website, as this is how you're going to access the Gulf Islands.
http://www.bcferries.com/schedules/southern/
Study its ferry schedule and pricing, and the map. This will influence your itinerary. I'm afraid the ferries aren't really set up so you can visit multiple islands per day - that's not realistic, unless you have your own boat.
Note that there are no bridges to the Gulf Islands - you can only take ferries or fly by seaplane.
The only ferry terminal from Vancouver to the Gulf Islands leaves from Tsawwassen, a 15 minute drive from the Peace Arch border crossing, approximately a 45 minute drive south from downtown Vancouver.
Anacortes has a ferry terminal, but it goes to Sidney on Vancouver Island, as well as the San Juan Islands. None of these places will take you to the Gulf Islands.
Sidney is a town on Vancouver Island - it is not a Gulf Island. You can access Sidney from a Washington State ferry from Anacortes, but there are no ferries from Sidney to the Gulf Islands. To get to the Gulf Islands from Sidney, you'd have to drive a few minutes north to the Swartz Bay ferry terminal.
Also, as far as I'm aware, there are no free ferries to/from the Gulf Islands. If you want to get off the islands, you have to pay coming and going, east or west. For some ferries, you'll want to make reservations to guarantee a spot as the ferry schedules are very limited, often with only 2 or 3 ferries per day. As a result, the islands aren't really set up so you can "base camp" at one to explore the others, again, mostly because of the limited ferry schedule. And the islands are too big/too spread out to get around on foot - you'd want some sort of mode of transport, ideally a car. Because the islands are so hilly, bikes are often not the answer unless you're a serious cyclist - the type who cycles through mountain ranges and thinks nothing of it.
My personal favourite Gulf Island is Galiano, mostly because of all the public parks and waterfront access, in places like Montague Harbour Provincial Park, the view from the Bluffs, as well as the artsy side to life there. There are some good restaurants and cafes too. It just feels a lot more wild than Salt Spring, but it's smaller so easier to explore if you've got only a few days.
I'm embarrassed to admit that I haven't been to Saturna Island yet, but it's the least populated of the Gulf Islands. I've only spent one long weekend on Pender (it's split between North Pender and South Pender, the two connected by a bridge). It felt like a place people retire to - lots and lots of homes. Shopping plazas and scenic waterfront pubs - the occasional rocky beach.
Anyhow... you said it's all new to you and any help's appreciated. Hope this points you in the right direction!
Thank you Robyn! Yes, it's all new to me. I assumed the ferries run like the San Juans which are just south (I.e. you pay on the westbound travel, not the eastbound and interisland ferries are free to walk-on passengers). The Gulf Islands have no interisland ferries?!

I have heard others rave about Galiano, too. Thanks so much
Hi cheezz,

There are some BC Ferries routes (ie: the ferries between Vancouver and the Sunshine Coast, and the ferries between the Lower Sunshine Coast and the Upper Sunshine Coast) that have that system, where you pay one way, but you don't pay coming back. Unfortunately the Gulf Islands aren't one of those routes.
There are certainly inter-island ferries, but usually they're a part of a longer route (ie: There's a ferry that goes from Vancouver, stops at Galiano, then stops at Mayne, then stops at Pender, etc.) Again, it's just a matter of looking up the BC Ferries Gulf Islands schedules (like really, digging in there) and making an itinerary that works with those ferry schedules. Those will be the anchors (no pun intended!) for how you get around.
If you're set on the Gulf Islands, don't bother with the Washington state ferry system. When you get to Anacortes, head back to I-5 and drive north to the Peace Arch border crossing, and then once you get through, you're a 20 minute drive from the BC Ferries terminal in Tsawwassen. The trick, however, is that the border's a wild card.
An aside, but the nice thing about Galiano is that it's the first island you stop at from Tsawwassen. It's only a 40 minute ferry ride. However, the last time I visited Galiano (just last month), there were only two ferries: 8:30am and 8pm. We made a reservation too to guarantee our spot, which meant we had to be there at the latest 30 minutes before. Needless to say, it was an early morning.
Once on Galiano, you could then take a ferry over to Mayne Island the next day, and then take the ferry over to Pender the following day. Again, it depends on the ferry schedule. Depending on what island you want to go to next determines what ferry you go on - there might be a few hops on other islands first before you arrive at your final destination.
Another idea is to simply rent boats from the boat rental shop on Galiano's Montague Harbour and take it over to Salt Spring Island's Ganges. Ganges is really the only Gulf Island town - all the other Gulf Islands have everything spread out over the island, so it's not really as central. But with a good marine map, you could jet around to the different harbours. The owners of the boat shop can recommend the best places to explore.
Again, hope this helps!
Reservations and notes all set! We are bypassing Whidbey Island and going straight from Tsawwassen to Saturna, Pender, Galiano, Vancouver Island. This trip is end of June so I will be sure and report back.
Thank you for your help Robyn
Here is our agenda for the Gulf Islands. If anyone has any critiques or suggestions, let me know! I know we will not be able to do half of these things, but we are going to try
GULF ISLANDS AGENDA
Day 1:
Tsawassen ferry to Saturna Island.
Lunch and sightseeing on Saturna.
To do on Saturna Island:
Fog Alarm Building at East Point, recognized as Canada’s premier land-based whale- watching site.
Scan the bulletin boards for island goings-on.
the Free Store a must. It's an exchange/recycling center, open Wed & Sat 10:00am-noon, on Central Rd
Saturna Island Vineyard, tastings & bistro open 11-6pm, 8 Quarry Rd,
Saturnavineyards.com
Mt Warburton Pike - drive to top for great view
East Point (very southern tip) for whale watching
Narvaez Bay trails - easy hikes on south island
Not good for biking. Accessible only by ferry or float plane.
Eat:
Saturna Café or Lighthouse Pub. Evenings, relax on the pub’s patio to take in one of the best sunsets in the Gulf Islands.
Ferry to Pender Island.
Day 1,2:
Pender Island, 1 night
Corbett House Country Inn B&B
http://corbetthousecountryinn.com/
To do on Pender Island –
Driftwood Centre (North) and 5 min away is Hope Bay stores.
Pender Farmers Market, Saturday morning @ the Community Hall on north Pender, 4418 Bedwell Harbour Rd, 9:30am-1pm
Just North of Hope Bay is Southridge Farms Organic Foods, a grocery store featuring fresh Paninis and Coffee.
Medicine Beach has stores and a bakery that hand-makes it's bread - where north and south Pender meet.
Magic Lake, pretty lake and park, bird watching
Narrow, windy roads difficult for cycling.
Hiking trail to Mt. Norman - The trail from Ainslie Point to Mount Norman on South Pender Island wanders through some pretty forested areas before branching into the Mount Norman, Beaumont Park fork. Some gorgeous old arbutus trees are mixed in with fir trees along the trail. While not overly difficult the climb to the peak is good exercise.
Brooks Point Park, southernmost end of south Pender - Orcas, seals and river otters are often seen offshore
Pender Chamber of Commerce across from Tru Value Foods @ Driftwood Centre, 4605 Bedwell Harbour Rd
Pender Island Museum, Sun 1-4pm, NOTE: doesn't look at all interesting
Printable map of Pender: http://www.mapofpender.com/
Pender interactive photos: http://www.penderisland.info/virtual-tours/north-pender-island-photo-tour/
Day 2,3,4,5:
Ferry from Pender to Galiano Island, 3 nights
Rocky Ridge B&B Galiano
http://www.galianorockyridge.com/galianoisland.html
To do on Galiano Island –
Galiano Island has one gas station, grocery stores, a pub, no bank, and a few stores, including some interesting craft galleries and craft shops, all clustered at the southern end of the island. Many of the island's amenities are found near the ferry terminal at Sturdies Bay, but little treasure spots are dotted throughout the island.
Dionisio Point Provincial Park - at the northeastern tip of Galiano Island. Much of this park has a weathered-limestone shoreline, characteristic of both Galiano and Gabriola Islands. Dionisio offers spectacular mature forests, rocky points, sandy beaches and a tidal lagoon, explore the sandstone caves and spectacular views from the 141-acre park.
Old wooden bakery boat (converted from a ferry) anchored out in the marina. We kayaked to it (you can rent kayaks at the marina). The cinnamon buns are to die for and the bread and pies are out of this world.
Hummingbird Pub - Take the old pub bus. The bus picks up people at the park and marina. Depending on the driver, it can be a white knuckle experience. On the way, the driver plays zippy music, but no one signs along. On the way home, everyone sings along.
Bellhouse Provincial Park - southern end, watch whales-boats-picnic? Named in honour of the first innkeepers on the island. Besides the small beach here, the park's main attractions are the wildly shaped limestone formations on the shoreline of Active Pass and the parade of large ferry boats that squeeze through the waterway that separates Galiano and Mayne Islands. This is a dream location for photographers. Bellhouse is only a short walk north from the ferry dock at Sturdies Bay and is well marked. Pause here to rest and picnic before heading uphill to Bluffs Park, another good picnic location at the south end of Galiano.
Bluffs Park, southern end, drive to top or easy hike, picnic
Pebble Beach Reserve - Walk through the rainforest to Cable Bay - beautiful rock formations.
Mount Galiano - difficult 1 hr hike to top (steady elevated climb), see for miles and miles - enjoy awe-inspiring views of the Coast Mountain Range, Vancouver Island, the Gulf and San Juan Islands, and Mount Baker and the Olympic Peninsula in Washington State.
Montague Harbour Marine Provincial Park, one of the largest provincial parks on any of the islands. Galiano Island has the most dedicated park land of all the Southern Gulf Islands. There are seven beautiful parks, and miles of old logging trails and country lanes. on the west side of Galiano Island. The 89-hectare park is one of the Gulf Islands' most popular parks, lying 5 miles (8 km) north of the BC Ferries dock at Sturdies Bay. Some of the walk-in sites are located in an ultra picturesque wooded setting on a small ridge above the harbour. Shell beaches and warm summer swimming are particularly attractive to families, and hikers can hike the trails at Gray Peninsula.
Galiano Travel Centre, 2635 Sturdies Bay
Bodega Ridge Nature Preserve - with its nesting bald eagles and peregrine falcons, and a separate 5-mile (8-km) section along the shore. Take the Bodego Ridge Walk, toward north end, flat 1-1/2 hr hike.
Serenity by the Sea Retreat, 1-1/2 hr core relaxation for $75; 225 Serenity Lane off of Porlier Pass Rd, middle of island
http://www.serenitybythesea.com/
Madrona del Mar Spa @ the Galiano Inn, 134 Madrona Dr, open 10-6pm daily,
Prices: http://www.galianoinn.com/site/the-spa/massage.html#m10
Eat:
Galiano Inn for wood-fired pizza or dinner, 134 Madrona Dr,
http://www.galianoinn.com/site/food_-_wine/wood-fired-pizza.html
http://www.galianoinn.com/site/food_-_wine.html
Cable Bay Organic Farm @ Retreat Cove - open when flags are flying, 13050 Porlier Pass, south side of island bet Bodega Ridge Park and Montague Harbor - pick up stuff for picnic
Harbor Grill, just south of Montague Park, breakfast-lunch-snacks- ice cream, casual
http://www.montagueharbour.com/restaurant.php
Galiano Grand Central Emporium, breakfasts look yum, 8am-2:30pm daily, 2740 Sturdies Bay Rd (old fashioned diner)
http://www.grandcentral.ca/
Day 5,6,7:
Ferry from Galiano to Vancouver Island
Amazing Dome - east shore other side of Duncan on Vancouver Island, 2 nights
https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/433942
To do on Vancouver Island –
QUALICUM
Old School House Arts Centre, Artisan Market - Fri 3-8pm
Farmers Market, 8:30-12 Saturday
PARKSVILLE
Parksville Visitor Centre is conveniently located just off Highway 19A (Exit #46), between the Craig Heritage Park Museum and Rotary Peace Park.
Summer by the Sea Street Market being held every Tuesday night from mid June to the end of August, from 6:00 pm - 9:00 pm. Over 140 exceptional artisans offer everything from wrought iron work, rock candles to wooden toys.
Rathtrevor Beach Provincial Park's high tide offers the warmest ocean swimming opportunities in Canada.
Horne Lake Caves Provincial Park will thrill you! Though there are two small caves you can explore on your own, a guided tour through part of the large chambers will be more enlightening and a great introductory tour is available, as well as more adventurous ones.
LADYSMITH
Holland Creek trails; Trolley to downtown
MILL BAY
Farmers Market, Thurs 2-7pm, 2720 Mill Bay Rd
CHEMANIUS
ArtBeat- Friday, June 28, 5-9pm, http://www.cvcas.com/
A weekly art walk and street party, featuring local artists and a sparkling line-up of music, entertainment and demonstrations.
Farmers Market, Wed, 5-8:30pm, Waterwheel Park
Chemainus Theatre Festival, 9737 Chemainus Rd,
http://www.chemainustheatrefestival.ca/
June - Singin' in the Rain, show times 2&7:30pm on 26th/27th; 8pm on 28th; 2&8pm on 29th; 2 tickets = $54.60
DUNCAN
Wineries map: http://www.millbaybc.com/Maps/?id=83
Drop by the Duncan-Cowichan Visitor Centre for more information about food and wine, farmers markets, and specialty shops in the area
Duncan Farmers Market, June 29, 9-2pm @ City Square
With our "you make it, you bake it, you grow it, you sell it" philosophy, you will find a wide variety of local products to fullfill your "100 mile diet" needs year round! Every Saturday morning, rain or shine, come for the freshest local fruits and vegetables, baking, jams & jellies, honey, crafts, clothing, pet treats, and more!
http://www.duncanfarmersmarket.ca/index.php
Hilary's Cheese & Deli (numerous runny and blue varieties made in Hilary Abbot's cheese factory:
1282 Cherry Point Road, Cowichan Bay, BC.
True Grain Bakery (organic bread baked daily on the premises along with cookies and pastries);
Udder Guys homemade ice cream shop (try the zesty ginger and red wine grape varieties)
Providence Farm (1843 Tzouhalem Rd), a sprawling therapeutic community farm with a history dating back to 1864; its farm store sells veggies, herbs, and flowers grown on site. Don't miss this remarkable place
The Old Farm Market (Trans-Canada Highway east of town) and the Community Farm Market (at the back of the downtown Duncan Garage) also offer the freshest local produce. So do such farmgates as Cali Farm Organic Produce (2328 Koksilah Rd) and Valhalla Farm Herbs (3693 Gibbins Rd).
Merridale Estate Cidery, (800) 998-9908 or (250) 920-9453, www. merridalecider.com. largest cider apple orchard in BC dedicated to cider production.
Averill Creek Vineyard, 11-5 daily, http://www.averillcreek.ca/
Zanatta winery, 5039 Marshall Rd, open 12-4 Fri-Sun (also has their own restaurant)
http://www.zanatta.ca/
Little Qualicum Cheeseworks & MooBerry Winery:
http://www.morningstarfarm.ca/images/stories/MorningStar-Self-Guided-Tour.pdf
Open daily 9-5
NANAIMO (Departure Bay)
farmers market Fri morning 10-2pm @ Pioneer Waterfront Plaza on Front St in downtown Nanaimo beside the bastion
MacMillan Provincial Park - contains Cathedral Grove (old forest)
http://www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/macmillan/
West of Qualicum Beach on Hwy 4 which runs thru the park
Little Qualicum Falls Provincial Park (easy hike to falls)
http://www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/little_qualicum_falls/
Englishman River Falls Provincial Park (easy hike to 2 stunning falls)
http://www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/englishman_rv/
COOMBS
http://www.vancouverisland.com/regions/towns/?townID=49
15 min west of Parksville on the way to Little Qualicum Falls
Old Country Market - goats on the roof
Very fresh produce, extensive deli dept,
Coombs Emporium, on Alberni Hwy, next door to the Old Country Market
Giant stone sculptures; arts & crafts shops
Butterfly World, 10-4 daily, about $11??
http://www.nature-world.com/
From Qualicum, take Memorial Hwy south, past 19 fwy, left ay Hwy 4a
Also turtle pond, reptiles, water gardens and indoor tropical plants garden. hummingbird patio with drinks and snacks.
Tripadvisor gives it 2.5 stars
World Parrot Refuge, 2116 Alberni Hwy
http://worldparrotrefuge.org/
10-4 daily, $14
COBBLE HILL
Cobble Hill is a creative community for painters, sculptors, and potters.
Kinsol Trestle - beautiful old wooden railway trestle; the largest wooden trestle in Canada and one of the highest in the world, can now be crossed on foot.
MAPLE BAY
Maple Mountain Centennial Park has trails for all levels.
Mount Tzuhalem has hiking and biking trails for all ages and levels of ability, including wonderful wildflowers and spectacular views (south of Maple Bay)
https://www.google.com/search?q=Mount+Tzuhalem&client=safari&hl=en&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=bR5yUYT1C6TAigKNqoC4BA&ved=0CAoQ_AUoAA&biw=768&bih=900
Day trip to Thetis Island for Howling Wolf Farm Market, 1/2 mile from ferry landing, small wooden store known for their pies and produce
Day 7,8,9:
Vancouver Island, Inn the Estuary 2 nights
Inn the Estuary, Nanoose Bay
http://www.inntheestuary.com/
Day trip To Gabriola Island
To do on Gabriola Island:
Perhaps the most amazing limestone formation on the Gulf Islands is located just south of the beach and picnic grounds at Gabriola Sands Provincial Park. This grassy, open, breezy location on Taylor and Pilot Bays is rather unique on the islands for its manicured ambience. It's an easy 1.2-mile (2-km) jaunt from the ferry dock at Descanso Bay to the park along Taylor Bay Road. Walk the beach at Taylor Bay to the limestone formations called the Malaspina Galleries, carved by surf and frost. An easier approach to them from the park is via Malaspina Drive, which leads east off Taylor Bay Road. A trail leads from the drive's end to Malaspina Point and the Galleries. Exploration of the seaside formations is due to the deteriorating stability of the overhanging formations and concerns for public safety. At low tide, visitors can still stand on the foreshore at one end and look into the cavern, but the best way to view the Malaspina Galleries is by kayak.
Many petroglyphs.
Calm waters to the southwest of the Gabriola provide an excellent area for kayaking.
Gabriola Island Winery, 575 Balsam St
Day 9:
Ferry from Nanaimo (Departure Bay) to Horseshoe Bay
Glad I could help!
Your itinerary looks ambitious, and having never done before, can't really comment - but have fun with it!
For Galiano, put Montague Harbour Provincial Park at the top of your itinerary - it'll be the most scenic beach out of all the Gulf Islands you visit. Be sure to go for the perimeter walk around the park - doesn't take long.
Also, La Berengerie is a must for dinner. Make reservations - there aren't many tables, but it's possibly the best dining experience on the island and a worthy experience: http://www.laberengerie.ca/dining_room.html
Also, the drive up the Bluffs provides an incredible view, and it's not too far away from Montague Harbour.
Dionisio will be the most challenging to get to, as you can't drive to get there - you can drive to a trail head and walk in, but it's a fairly long walk down an abandoned road. Here's a nice little overview to give you taste:
http://www.johnharveyphoto.com/GalianoMayDay/
While you are at Goats on the Roof, eat at Cuckoo's restaurant...awesome pizza ...and the outside patio feels like Italy! Black Goose Pub by Rathtrevor Park is fun, and there is a Bistro in the Quality Inn on the main drag in Parksville that has surprisingly good food, and a wonderful waterfront view. Just carry on to the Cathedral forest from Coombs...not too far from there.
When are you coming? You'll love it!
AM
Thank you all for these wonderful suggestions! I've made note of them all and can't wait!
AM, we will be there June 22-30
BC_Robyn,
I went to the La Betrngerie website but it just looks like a B&B - nothing about dinner or hours...?!
The restaurant is located within the B&B. The website looks like it hasn't been updated in eons (which is actually pretty apt for Galiano Island - everyone is on island time and the online world is merely an afterthought):
http://www.laberengerie.ca/dining_room.html
To provide more details, the owner of the B&B, Huguette, is from France and has been living on Galiano for a long time now. She runs a casual bistro every evening where she makes 3 items: something meat, something fish, something vegetarian. It changes every evening, there is no real printed menu that will show up on the website. I remember having an amazing Moroccan-inspired lamb dish and a homemade tomato soup as a starter, and it exceeded my expectations. Galiano isn't a culinary hotspot by any means, but this place was fantastic. Encapsulated the spirit of Galiano in many ways.
Thank you! I have added it to our list. I think we will have to hit the islands at least two more times to fit everything in from our list
Hi! Here is some insider info that seems to be missing from the already collected notes. You CAN in fact go to the Gulf Islands from Vancouver Island. Swartz Bay sailings are more abundant than those from Tsawwassen however they do not take reservations. When traveling from Tsawwassen to the Gulf Islands, as stated in an earlier post, a reservation is a must otherwise you will travel standby and most likely be disappointed. AND BE ON TIME FOR YOUR RESERVATION - when they say "to claim your reservation arrive 40 minutes ahead of sailing time" they mean every letter of the "rule". As a 'part-timer" and property owner on Mayne Island, this is sage advice. Also, be prepared for the ferries to run late - it is a notorious (sad) fact and happens more often than not. I am curious why you chose to skip Mayne Island? Mayne Island has lots to offer in terms of beaches, hike up Mount Park, the Lighthouse, galleries, farmers market (Saturdays starting May long w/end), restaurants and wonderful B&Bs/cabins, kayak rentals etc. Perhaps another trip?
Your itinerary is ambitious to be sure, but that's what is fun about a vacation - you can choose what you want to do as you go - no timetable or schedule to keep. Well, that is, unless you need to connect with a ferry.
You will love Vancouver Island AND the Southern Gulf Islands...of course, I am biased. Enjoy your trip.
Hi JoAnne,

We may very well do Mayne Island too! We are going to island hop as much as time allows. I think my daughter has been to Mayne - or is going later this year - which is why we didn't make it a priority.
We already have our ferry reservations, and I remember from our Salt Spring trip that it's a necessity and yes, to be on time! We discovered (by a LOT of digging) that we can get a 'private cabin' for an extra $15 on the Tsawwassen to Saturna outbound trip. No explanation except that each has room to lounge and it's own bathroom. We sprung for it just to see what it's all about