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Old Sep 24th, 2010, 07:33 AM
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Lodging and dining in NB & NS

I've been reading the Qs and Answers for several weeks now about where to go and what to do in NB and NS. I've been quite impressed with all the detailed info provided by this forum. I'll be there for about one week in October. My itinerary is open. Based on what has been discussed in this forum, I've listed the spots I'd like to see: St. Andrews by the Sea, Hopewell Rocks, Truro, Pictou, Baddeck, Halifax, Peggy's Cove, Lunenburg, Digby, Hall's Harbour, Burntcoat Head, Parrsboro, Avocate Harbour, Saint John, and St. Martins ! I'm interested in seeing the tides, the leaves changing, rugged coastline,.....places to stay.....places to eat good seafood.....etc.
Do you have recommendations about the above places? Too much in a week? Concentrate on which ones? Be sure to add ?? We'll play it by ear....but we'd love to know about memorable places to stay and eat while we're there. Thank you.
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Old Sep 24th, 2010, 10:02 AM
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Off the top, I'd say that is way too much in a week. There's probably close to 2 days of driving just to get to and between each of these places, to say nothing of touring around the nearby sites once at each destination.

I always try to encourage people to get up to Cape Breton Island (you did include Baddeck on your list) - but it's a big place. a long drive, and once there you really need a day or 2 at the least to make it worlthwhile and see just the highlights. The Cabot Trail through Cape Breton Highlands National Park is one of the top scenic drives in North America. You might like to do a little walking and picnicking, visit some scenic fishing villages, stop at the lookouts, stroll around Baddeck one afternoon, maybe drive to Louisbourg if that is of interest, etc., etc. So - that means at least 2 to 3 nights in Cape Breton.

Out of Halifax - you could do a day trip which includes both Peggy's Cove and Lunenburg then spend the evening strolling the Halifax Harbour boardwalk museums (if open - check), pubs, historic properties with shops, etc. But that would still involve 2 nights in Halifax. A 3rd night could easily be filled up by exploring further down the "Lighthouse Route" with it's historic towns, quaint fishing villages and beautiful seascapes.

Parrsboro/Advocate Harbour region is very pleasant. So are some of the sites around Digby. But with only a week, you might want to pick only 1 of these (if that).

For the Fundy shore - if you stay in Alma you'll see dramatic views of the Fundy tides right there, it is adjacent to Fundy National Park with scenic drives, views and walks, and you can day-trip to both Hopewell Rocks and St. Martins from there (which means at least 2 nights again).

Alternatively, if you do stay in St. Andrews (which is nice - but I think you're running out of time), you could probably stop at St. Martins enroute from there to Hopewell Rocks and then spend the night in Moncton (try to time your visit to Hopewell Rocks for low tide).

I think the above would be challenging for a week, even without the other destinations you've mentioned. Are you driving or flying (i.e. what are your entry and departure points).
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Old Sep 24th, 2010, 10:18 AM
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Agree w/ mat!
Can you do 2 weeks? Or, 10-11 days?

I am partial to Cape Breton & in particular, the Cabot Tail & the Ingonish area. We always stay @ Keltic Lodge (the main lodge...not The Inn which is not really an Inn at all but just a hotel & not a very nice one IMHO! No camparison with The Lodge!)

The Cabot Trail is not something that you "drive through" @ break neck speed...you need to meander. And, always allow at least one day for a "rain day/fog day". No point driving around the Cabot Trail if you can't see anything b/c of dense coastal fog and/or pounding rain.

When in Oct are you going? A lot of attractions/accommodations close for the season right after Canadian Thanksgiving which is Oct 11 this year, 2010.
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Old Sep 24th, 2010, 05:37 PM
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We'll be driving there and should arrive in NB about Oct 4th and will have approximately 7 days to meander. We are retired and have no set schedule. But we've planned to return home in 7-8 days. We're listening to your thoughts. We did a map quest for distances between cities and it said: starting with St Andrews by the Sea...3 hours to Hopewell rocks...1&1/2 hours to Truro, 1 to Pictu...2&3/4 to Baddeck...4 to Halifax...etc. Are these times off?? We also have read that our cell phones probably won't work there and unless we have Capitol One credit card...we'll have a 2-4% fee charged for every purchace.
Thanks for all your input. This is quite an adventure.
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Old Sep 25th, 2010, 02:16 AM
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If you are putting Truro on your list for the tidal bore, I would spend my time elsewhere. While Truro is a charming town, the rush of water you would see is less than spectacular. Hopewell rocks - you need to see it in both high and low tides which means spending at least 2 days. Also that time of year you will find a lot of places closed for the season. My recommendation, take some time and explore St. Martin's and then take the "back route" through to Fundy National Park (Alma). Hopewell Rocks is a short distance and don't forget Cape Enrage (most of these places should be open until Cdn Thanksgiving. That will take you 2-3 days. The next jaunt would be into Halifax, spend a night. Like suggested take a day and explore the South Shore of NS (Peggy's Cove, Mahone Bay, Chester, Lunenburg). You can easily return to Halifax for the night. Since you seem to be coming from NB way, you could also do the Annapolis Valley (Wolfville, Halls Harbour, Digby) and return by ferry to Saint John. I would save Cape Breton and the other end of the province for another trip or do the reverse, skip Halifax and South Shore. In your timeframe, you won't be able to do it all.

As for cell phones, they probably will work - but the roaming charges will be extremely high. Your voice mail will probably not be accessible (I know when I travel in the States my "Canadian" phone works no problem.)
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Old Sep 25th, 2010, 04:37 AM
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This helps enormously. We'll eliminate the Cape Breton area this time and do it another trip when we can do it justice. We're glad to learn about the Canadian Thanksgiving. Any little restaurants/lodges/etc. that you recommend? B&Bs...? We aren't looking for luxury, but unique, memorable...we love the water and good down-home seafood. Thank you so much for the detailed info.
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Old Sep 25th, 2010, 11:19 AM
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Too bad that you are going to miss the spectacular beauty of Cape Breton. Maybe you will change your mind when you get to Nova Scotia.
In any event, have a great trip!
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Old Sep 25th, 2010, 12:43 PM
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Hi again - my estimate in my first post of 2 days driving was just off the top. But I just looked at a circle tour on Google maps of:
St. Andrews to Parrsboro to Baddeck to Halifax to Digby and back to St. Andrews and it comes up as just under 20 hours not including lunch stops, side trips, etc. For me - that would be 2 full days of driving just in between destinations (I have trouble with more than 10 hours a day in the car).

And you would want to do some extra driving for day trips, e.g. if you make it to Baddeck, you'll want to tour Cape Breton from there including the Cabot Trail.

Cape Breton is spectacular - if you had 3 or 4 more days it would certainly be worth visiting (and I suspect the fall colours could make it even more awesome). However, for me, other highlights include the Lighthouse Route southwest of Halifax and the Fundy Shore of New Brunswick. I also like Halifax - a smallish City (by big city standards) with a vibrant downtown and harbour area worth exploring. Brier Island out from Digby has some unique scenery and is famous for whale watching. We spent several days in Advocate Harbour, Driftwood Park Chalets, a few years ago, using it as a base to tour to Parrsboro and other nearby points. These were very nice accommodations, and the owners were friendly and helpful in directing us where to purchase fresh local seafood.
If you stay in Alma, Cliffside Suites are lovely, well equipped and offer spectacular views, but there are several other choices including B&B's and a motel in the village, plus cabins in the adjacent National Park.
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Old Sep 25th, 2010, 12:51 PM
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As for seeing the Fundy tides, although I agree with Tanya that ideally seeing them at low and high tides is more dramatic, I think seeing Hopewell Rocks at low tide is quite dramatic in itself and I certainly would recommend at least this one visit (tide tables are available online - do a google search). The tides are also very dramatic at Alma and Fundy National Park which is why I mention that area - although the "Rocks" (flowerpots) at Hopewell certainly offer a unique and exceptionally picturesque landscape.
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Old Sep 25th, 2010, 07:28 PM
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In October the very best thing you could do is see the leaves changing on the Cabot Trail.
It is spectacular. We did it last year on Thanksgiving weekend and it is like nothing else.

I personally find the Parrsboro area to be low on my list of must do places to see in Nova Scotia especially in the fall. And I did spend time there last fall.

Second to Cape Breton I would choose Lunenburg, Mahone Bay and Chester area, going from Halifax.
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Old Sep 25th, 2010, 08:11 PM
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I agree w/ irecommend! Spectacular! I absolutely love Cape Breton! (Can you tell??)
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Old Sep 27th, 2010, 03:11 AM
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Thanks everyone. We'll go and wing it. It sounds like such beauty whereever we end up. We certainly have an open mind.
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Old Sep 27th, 2010, 07:37 AM
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kwingy "winging it"!

Have a great trip! Looking forward to your trip report!
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Old Oct 4th, 2010, 03:16 AM
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My advice is that you always travel to the farthest point and work your way back to your departure point. The Cabot Trail is a loop that has no shortcuts . Yes, you can drive it from the western coast Route 19, then 219, the Cabot Trail around to Englishtown and the 105 , but you have to allow time to stop and do things. The part of the Cabot Trail from say Margaree Harbour full circle around and back to say Baddeck is a 4 hour drive. So, now add time to hike and whale watch and go to the beach or dine on lobster or crab , and you see why we say you need to plan at least one night somewhere on that route. The Western shore is where the whales and the sunsets are, so are the moose and best hikes.
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Old Oct 13th, 2010, 04:00 PM
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We're back. Is this where we give the trip report??
Our vacation was more better than better!!
Cathy and Joe
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Old Oct 14th, 2010, 08:38 PM
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Welcome back, Cathy & Joe!

How about if you start a new thread?: Trip Report: NB & NS

Looking forward to hearing about your adventures!
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Old Oct 15th, 2010, 03:48 AM
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OK, thanks, OceanBreeze1. Will do.
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