Help with first time trip to Quebec -- what's the best?
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Help with first time trip to Quebec -- what's the best?
DH and I are off to Quebec for the first time in September; a (too) short trip from the 9th through the 17th. We are a not-too-stodgy 55ish couple blessed with good health and mobility. DH is really outdoorsy and loves nature; I've got nothing against nature but I'm more of a city type. So, to see as much as possible in the short time we have, and to make both of us happy, I've planned (and booked) the following:
Fly from Chicago to Montreal (on Porter Air, a new one for me) September 9
Three nights in Montreal (we have a condo in the Plateau)
Two nights in Quebec City (another condo in Vieux Quebec)
Two nights in the Charlevoix (a cabin in Les Eboulements)
Final night in Montreal near the airport, as we ...
Depart 9 AM for back to Chicago, September 17
Given this itinerary, I would appreciate any advice on what we should-not-miss to maximize our time. (Feel free to criticize the itinerary, too, but that's pretty much a <i>fait accompli</i>.) I have of course read here and online and a couple of guidebooks (which led me to mix it up as I have) but we're most interested in doing and eating and seeing things that we couldn't elsewhere and that "the locals" would do (thus our fondness for condos instead of hotels. Love going to grocery stores -- they tell you so much about a new place!) Like, we would enjoy going to a Canadiens game (it it weren't too early), taking in a local theater production, visiting a farmer's market, going to a u-pick farm (do they have those in Quebec?), etc. -- combined with the musuems, historical sites, churches, whale watching, and other usual "touristy" things.
For example, I've read about the Montreal TamTams on summer Sundays on Mount Royal and poutine. Can't do/eat that in Chicago! The guide books rave about things like this -- but are they worthwhile? As I said above, we like touristy well enough (like a vist or two to Vieux Montreal), but really don't care for kitschy (like, say Ripley's Believe it or Not! and/or tee shirt/souvenir shops). We like to come away from a vacation feeling like we know the place, at least a little.
Thanks for suggestions and opinions!
Fly from Chicago to Montreal (on Porter Air, a new one for me) September 9
Three nights in Montreal (we have a condo in the Plateau)
Two nights in Quebec City (another condo in Vieux Quebec)
Two nights in the Charlevoix (a cabin in Les Eboulements)
Final night in Montreal near the airport, as we ...
Depart 9 AM for back to Chicago, September 17
Given this itinerary, I would appreciate any advice on what we should-not-miss to maximize our time. (Feel free to criticize the itinerary, too, but that's pretty much a <i>fait accompli</i>.) I have of course read here and online and a couple of guidebooks (which led me to mix it up as I have) but we're most interested in doing and eating and seeing things that we couldn't elsewhere and that "the locals" would do (thus our fondness for condos instead of hotels. Love going to grocery stores -- they tell you so much about a new place!) Like, we would enjoy going to a Canadiens game (it it weren't too early), taking in a local theater production, visiting a farmer's market, going to a u-pick farm (do they have those in Quebec?), etc. -- combined with the musuems, historical sites, churches, whale watching, and other usual "touristy" things.
For example, I've read about the Montreal TamTams on summer Sundays on Mount Royal and poutine. Can't do/eat that in Chicago! The guide books rave about things like this -- but are they worthwhile? As I said above, we like touristy well enough (like a vist or two to Vieux Montreal), but really don't care for kitschy (like, say Ripley's Believe it or Not! and/or tee shirt/souvenir shops). We like to come away from a vacation feeling like we know the place, at least a little.
Thanks for suggestions and opinions!
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Hello purduegrad,
Reading your interests I'd look for the following.
Montreal:
streets to explore (this will give you a perspective of Mile End and the Plateau, quite different from other areas of the city, but unique): Mont-Royal Avenue, Saint Laurent Blvd, rue Saint Denis, Duluth, Fairmount/St. Viateur
while in Mile End: if you like beer, go to Dieu du Ciel for some microbrews.
Jean Talon Market
Atwater Market
Parc Lafontaine on a nice day
outdoorsy: Ile Sainte-Helene/Biosphere museum
Quebec City:
J.A. Moisan for groceries
Poutine you could try; back in my 20s when I had a faster metabolism, I'd sometimes indulge. Fries, brown sauce, curds.
Tam tams can be quite fun (some love it, others less so); at very least if you're there on a Sunday you could check it out and combine with climbing up the "mountain" to get to the chalet for the view.
There are farms outside of the cities. I've never done it but some colleagues I know have gone apple-picking.
I think you're right on track with your plans otherwise; you won't see it all, but that's ok, it'll be a nice taste.
Best wishes, Daniel
Reading your interests I'd look for the following.
Montreal:
streets to explore (this will give you a perspective of Mile End and the Plateau, quite different from other areas of the city, but unique): Mont-Royal Avenue, Saint Laurent Blvd, rue Saint Denis, Duluth, Fairmount/St. Viateur
while in Mile End: if you like beer, go to Dieu du Ciel for some microbrews.
Jean Talon Market
Atwater Market
Parc Lafontaine on a nice day
outdoorsy: Ile Sainte-Helene/Biosphere museum
Quebec City:
J.A. Moisan for groceries
Poutine you could try; back in my 20s when I had a faster metabolism, I'd sometimes indulge. Fries, brown sauce, curds.
Tam tams can be quite fun (some love it, others less so); at very least if you're there on a Sunday you could check it out and combine with climbing up the "mountain" to get to the chalet for the view.
There are farms outside of the cities. I've never done it but some colleagues I know have gone apple-picking.
I think you're right on track with your plans otherwise; you won't see it all, but that's ok, it'll be a nice taste.
Best wishes, Daniel
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What about visiting local artisinal Cheeseries (Fromageries)? I've done a little of this and it's a fun way to explore the countryside too. Take a look at http://www.bonjourquebec.com/qc-en/05sep_fromages0.html and scroll down to the bottom of the page for some specific links.
If while you're in Charlevoix you have time for a day trip to Saguenay-St. Lawrence Marine Park, you can whale watch from the shore (there are boat outings too but these would consume even more time).
On a recent Montreal trip I visited the Botanical Gardens for the first time - very excellent.
If while you're in Charlevoix you have time for a day trip to Saguenay-St. Lawrence Marine Park, you can whale watch from the shore (there are boat outings too but these would consume even more time).
On a recent Montreal trip I visited the Botanical Gardens for the first time - very excellent.
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While you are in the Charlevoix, visit Baie-St-Paul a very pretty town much favoured by artists from the 1920s until today. You should also try to take the ferry (free) across to Ile-aux-Coudres and drive around the island--it's like going back in time. There's an old windmill you can visit and several cidreries (I liked Pednault) where you can buy excellent cider, apple ice wine and other island specialties. The cheese in the Charlevoix is excellent--don't miss the Ciel de Charlevoix and the Migneron in particular--as Mat54 mentioned, you can visit some of the fromageries that make these wonderful cheeses.
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This is great stuff!
Daniel, thanks for your thoughtful suggestions.
Mat54 and laverendrye, I had never thought of fromageries or cideries; will think of them now though!
As for the more "touristy" options -- which museums (or churches or Fairmont hotels) are best picks, given our limited time?
Daniel, thanks for your thoughtful suggestions.
Mat54 and laverendrye, I had never thought of fromageries or cideries; will think of them now though!
As for the more "touristy" options -- which museums (or churches or Fairmont hotels) are best picks, given our limited time?
#6
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If you like exploring neighborhood grocery stores you should love the big markets in Montreal mentioned by Daniel_Williams, Jean talon and Atwater. The Little Italy neighborhood near Jean Talon is also fun to explore. Quebec City has a good but much smaller farmer's market in the port area of the Lower City.
The Quebec tourist office has excellent tourist guides to each tourist region in the province with lots of suggestions for walking tours and side trips. I got a packet of information with the Q City guide and maps by mail before we went. I think this is the web site I used to order
http://www.quebecregion.com/en/documentation?a=vis
My personal favorite of the Montreal museums is the museum of Archeology and History in the port area
http://pacmusee.qc.ca/en/home
and I second the recommendation for the Biosphere (not Biodome, also in Montreal) museum in Buckminster Fuller's geodesic dome.
Biking along the Lachine Canal in Montreal could be another good outdoorsy-in-the-city activity.
Suggestions for Quebec City on this thread
http://www.fodors.com/community/cana...uebec-city.cfm
I also posted a short trip report about our recent visit.
We have not visited the Île d'Orléans right outside Quebec City for many years but have fond memories of it and are hoping to go back the next time we get to the area. Lots of farms including u-pick places
http://www.iledorleans.com/eng/portr...e-dorleans.asp
The Quebec tourist office has excellent tourist guides to each tourist region in the province with lots of suggestions for walking tours and side trips. I got a packet of information with the Q City guide and maps by mail before we went. I think this is the web site I used to order
http://www.quebecregion.com/en/documentation?a=vis
My personal favorite of the Montreal museums is the museum of Archeology and History in the port area
http://pacmusee.qc.ca/en/home
and I second the recommendation for the Biosphere (not Biodome, also in Montreal) museum in Buckminster Fuller's geodesic dome.
Biking along the Lachine Canal in Montreal could be another good outdoorsy-in-the-city activity.
Suggestions for Quebec City on this thread
http://www.fodors.com/community/cana...uebec-city.cfm
I also posted a short trip report about our recent visit.
We have not visited the Île d'Orléans right outside Quebec City for many years but have fond memories of it and are hoping to go back the next time we get to the area. Lots of farms including u-pick places
http://www.iledorleans.com/eng/portr...e-dorleans.asp
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You have a great plan, and some good feedback. As I've mentioned in previous posts, Montreal is a nirvana for bicycling. There are do it yourself bike rental stations all over the city. If you are into food, in addition to Jean Talon and Atwater markets (which are not to be missed), Quebec is blessed with some beautiful supermarkets. The Loblaws on rue Rachael about 10 blocks east of Parc Lafontaine is amazing. One of our favorite evenings on the Plateau is to buy a nice wine at the SAQ on St. Denis, choose a byob restuarant on Duluth (many great choices), then stroll down St. Denis into Sq. St Louis and onto Prince Arthur to check out the street entertainment, then down St. Laurent where there are several 'trendy' restaurants and clubs.
If this is your first time in Montreal, don't miss Notre Dame in Old Montreal, and the view from the top of Mt. Royal.
As someone else mentioned, Ile-aux-Coudres north of Quebec City is fun, and another great bike venue. Il de Orleans just outside Quebec City is also very beautiful by car.
If this is your first time in Montreal, don't miss Notre Dame in Old Montreal, and the view from the top of Mt. Royal.
As someone else mentioned, Ile-aux-Coudres north of Quebec City is fun, and another great bike venue. Il de Orleans just outside Quebec City is also very beautiful by car.
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Don't miss the Porter Air lounge with free refreshments and a large business center (Mac computers and free internet.) At least that's how it is in Ottawa and Toronto. And they serve wine and beer along with snacks or even a box lunch on the plane. It's a lovely experience, a nice way to begin and end your trip.