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Help, please, with 2-week Nova Scotia trip

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Help, please, with 2-week Nova Scotia trip

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Old Apr 4th, 2008, 03:16 PM
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Help, please, with 2-week Nova Scotia trip

We're blocking out a two-week trip to Nova Scotia. I've been reading these posts and the archives, am by now feeling a bit overwhelmed, and would appreciate your insights.

We plan to fly into Halifax, drive, putter around and drive some more, and fly out of Sydney. The main places we'd like to go, we think, are Halifax, Lunenberg, Annapolis Royal, Truro, Sherbrooke, Mabou, Inverness, Chetican, around Cape Breton Highlands Nat. Pk., to Baddeck & then to Sydney for the flight out.

For us, getting there is more than half the fun, so the scenery is really what it's about, and we're going to do this in October. Thinking also about timing it to catch some of Celtic Colours.

My major concern is how to structure this so that we can base ourselves in 3 or at most 4 places and not be backtracking constantly-- and which places do you recommend that we stay? As retirees, a day or two more won't bother us, if that would work better.

I'd appreciate your thoughts.



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Old Apr 4th, 2008, 07:03 PM
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Well, the first thing I'd look at is for a 14 day trip, you've got 10 cities and a National Park. That means all you're going to be doing is driving, and while that is nice, it doesn't leave you any time to take a walking tour, sit and relax, etc.

Having been in the process of planning a two week trip to NS myself, I would suggest that you reduce the number of places you're trying to see. It sounds like the northern part is of more interest to you, so perhaps skipping Lunenburg, Annapolis Royal and Truro would be a good start. That brings you down to 7 cities and a National Park.

If you fly in and out of Sydney, you could stay completely in the north and drop Sherbrooke and Mabou. That would bring you down to 4 cities and a National Park.

I think that would be a much more doable trip without having to spend ALL your time on the road. It would give you time to stop along the way and enjoy the scenery rather than driving through saying "oh, that was pretty".

Also, do you mean Ingonish rather than Inverness?
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Old Apr 5th, 2008, 06:17 AM
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Just for fun, here's a possible itinerary. Sorry, I've ignored your 3 or 4-base concept, but suggested two nights in several places. It accounts for 12 days, leaving a couple to spend more time in Halifax or any other point of interest, or add a leg to Sherbrooke. It adds the fort at Louisbourg, which is probably of more historic interest than Sherbrooke, IMO. I've tried to keep driving distances per day to a reasonable amount to allow frequent stops along the way and time in the afternoon and evening to explore the towns. (I don't know the Mabou area, but have visited the rest.) The weather and colours in the first half of October would be better than last half.

Day 1: Arrive Halifax. Explore the Historic properties area and the Citadel.
Day 2: Halifax and area (Peggy’s Cove, if desired)
Day 3: Drive Halifax – Chester – Mahone Bay – Lunenburg along coastal road, not 103.
(Not much more than 100 km)
Day 4: Lunenburg and area, including Blue Rocks, Crescent Beach, and/or The Ovens
Day 5: Lunenburg – Annapolis Royal via Liverpool about 200 km
Day 6: Annapolis Royal, Digby and area
Day 7: Annapolis Royal to Truro to Pictou 313 km
Day 8: Pictou via Cape George to Mabou 232 km
Day 9: Mabou to Cheticamp to Ingonish, around Cabot Trail 185 km
Day 10: Ingonish – Baddeck 102 km
Day 11: Baddeck – Louisbourg Nat’l Historic Site and back to Sydney.
Day 12: Sydney

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Old Apr 5th, 2008, 11:24 AM
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That's a good itinerary given what you want to see. The longest driving stretch will be Annapolis Royal to Pictou - about 4 hours depending on your speed, traffic, etc.

One thing it doesn't allow for is additional time to enjoy the area before heading to the next. If you want to be able to say "wow, this is really beautiful here, let's just sit back and enjoy it for a day", you don't have much leeway.

You mention that getting there is more than half the fun, but is exploring where you're at important? Or is the drive itself the only important thing? Do you plan on doing any activities like hiking, shopping, etc.? Do you want to do any wildlife tours (i.e., whale watching cruise, bird watching, etc.)? Or do you just want to leaf peep?

One day to see Cape Breton isn't much if you really want to go into the park and explore. If you just want to drive through it, then one day is fine.
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Old Apr 5th, 2008, 04:32 PM
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I think you might have this a little too weighted to the mainland when I think half of your time should be on Cape Breton. Fortress of Louisburg, Brasdor Lake, Margaree River, Baddeck, Meat Cove, there is so much to cover and it is the highlight of Nova Scotia for sure.
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Old Apr 5th, 2008, 06:52 PM
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Thanks so much for your input, folks. I will have to absorb all this and then doubtless get back to you with more questions.
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Old Apr 6th, 2008, 05:18 PM
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ckwald,

I will caveat my comments by stating up front that my wife and I run a B&B in Sydney on Cape Breton Island. That way, you know two things - I am prejudiced towards B&Bs and I believe that Cape Breton, particularly in early October, is the most beautiful and lively part of the Province to visit. Having said that, the entire Province is a delight. With one exception, all of the B&Bs that I recommend in this plan are members of the Nova Scotia B&B Association. All are licenced and inspected by the Province and all of the operators have signed a Code of Ethics commiting to provide great hospitality and a high quality of service. The best site to find B&Bs in Nova Scotia is the Nova scotia B&B Association site at www.nsbedandbreakfast.com

The other thing I will mention is that, after nine years of hosting guests from around the world, it is most clear that those that enjoy their vacation the most are those that (as you want to do) stay several nights in one place. They are clearly more relaxed than the visitors who try for a different place every night and are actually experiencing some of the character and vitality of the Province. As you will have noticed though from the other posts, it is not that easy to see Nova Scotia that way. You do have to take a bit of the bad with the good and if you do stay in only two or three places then you can't avoid some backtracking. I will try to give you a rough plan that meets half way. It is also tailored somewhat to getting to enjoy part of Celtic Colours in Cape Breton.

Day 1 - Arrive Halifax -I am not sure what time you arrive but you may have some time this day to explore Halifax. I would recommend staying at Heritage Hideaway B&B in Bedford. It is an excellent high quality B&B with superb hosts and breakfasts to die for. While it is not in the heart of downtown Halifax it also doesn't have heart of downtown Halifax prices.

Day 2 - Tour the sights of Halifax. Stay a second night at Heritage Hideaway B&B.

Day 3 - Day trip to Lunenburg via Peggy's Cove, Chester and Mahone Bay. I would recommend lunch at the Seaside Shanty in Chester Basin between Chester and Mahone Bay. They have the second best seafood chowder in the Province (I still think my wife's is better). Stay a third night at Heritage Hideaway B&B.

Day 4 - Drive to the Wolfville area of the Annapolis Valley visiting the Grand Pre National Historic Site enroute. The Museum at Grand Pre is dedicated to the story of the expulsion of the Acadians from Nova Scotia in the 1750s and is fascinating. There are many good B&Bs and Inns in the Wolfville area but I would recommend staying for the next 3 nights at Carwarden B&B (pronounced Carden)in Port Williams on the outskirts of Wolfville. It is a wonderful old home built in 1910 by a famous NS architect for a British Army Officer come to "the colonies" to convalesce. It is a great place to relax and unwind.

Day 5 - Day trip to Annapolis Royal (about 1 1/2 hour drive away). During the day you could visit Fort Anne in Annapolis Royal itself and Port Royale, the site of Samuel de Champlain's first permanent settlement in the New World. If you wanted to drive a little farther you could go down as far as Digby, home of the famous Digby Scallops (which you can also get fresh anywhere else in Nova Scotia). Return to Carwarden for the night.

Day 6 - Explore around the Wolfville/Canning/Hall's Harbour area for the day. Stay at Carwarden for a third night.

Day 7 - Drive to Truro (only a 1/1/2 hour drive although you can take a more scenic route along the Minas Basin which is a bit more interesting and a litle bit longer. In Truro there are also many good B&Bs to choose from. I would recommend either Suncatcher B&B or Tulips and Thistle B&B both on the northern edge of town.

Day 8 - Explore around the Truro area and up along the Sunrise Trail along the Northumberland Shore. I have put this day in only because you said you wanted to see Truro for some reason. If your schedule is too tight anywhere this is what I would delete. Stay at whichever B&B you chose the night before.

Day 9 - Drive to Cape Breton Island. Turn left at the Canso Causeway and head up the "Ceilidh Trail" (Rte 19). I would recommend staying somewhere like Mabou where I would recommend staying at the Inn at Glendyer. This is the only property that I have recommended that does not belong to our B&B Association and which I have never been in personally. It was highly recommended to me by a friend whose opinion I trust. I am assuming that the portion of your trip in Cape Breton will be planned to coincide with our International Celtic Colours Festival which is scheduled from the 10th to the 18th of October. Celtic Clours is timed to start on the Friday of our Thanksgiving weekend (Thanksgiving is the 2nd Monday in October) and the leaves are generally at their peak during that week. The leaves are absolutely spectacular here. Although the Celtic Colours line-up isn't out yet, you will likely be able to see a performance of some sorts both of the nights you are in Mabou. If you need any information about Celtic Colours just ask ([email protected])

Day 10 - Stay in the Mabou area and explore Mabou/Inverness etc. Stay at Inn at Glendyer a second night.

Day 11 - Drive around the Cabot Trail clockwise (direction makes absolutely no difference but you are headed that way anyway). From Mabou, around the Cabot Trail and on to Sydney is about 5 hours of driving time. You will find it breathtaking the entire way. If you are hikers, you may want to take time out to hike the Skyline Trail between Cheticamp and Pleasant Bay. The mountain/sea vistas are the best in Atlantic Canada. (You could feasibly drive up and do this hike while you are staying in Mabou but you would end up backtracking). Stay in Sydney this night. I recommend staying in Sydney for 3 nights largely because it is central to other attractions and you can go to a Celtic Colours performance every night within a 20 minute drive of downtown.

Day 12 - Day trip to Fortress of Louisbourg and to the Cape Breton Miner's Museum. Stay in Sydney.

Day 13 - Day trip loop around part of the Bras d'Or Lakes (actually an inland sea) visiting Baddeck to see the Alexander Graham Bell Museum and then Iona to visit the Highland Village. Stay in Sydney for the night.

Day 14 - Depart Sydney.

I hope that this has given you some food for thought. Wherever you go, wherever you stay, have a great holiday in Nova scotia.
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Old Apr 7th, 2008, 06:02 PM
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Paradisefound: Thank you so much for your thoughtful input!

We really have no strong feelings about specific towns to visit on our tour-- I picked some out that sounded as if they'd be most interesting to us from all the reading I've been doing. But of course by now I'm sort of punchy . . . and anyway, I really welcome the views of knowledgeable people.

Your projected Days 1-3 pretty much align with what we've come up with on our new itinerary. A question about Day 4. We'd thought to base ourselves in Annapolis Royal. Why do you suggest the Wolfville area instead? Your descriptions, by the way, are quite enticing!

Re Day 7, we have no particular interest in Truro. It just seemed a convenient mid-way point, to avoid a very long drive. We're in our 70s and want to take it easy! So we'd drive on to Mabou the next day and stay there at least another day to browse around.

Yes, we do plan to be in Cape Breton for two or three days during Celtic Colours and I will certainly contact you for more info.

Another question: We are not hikers, just great admirers of gorgeous scenery and wildlife, and we will be in no hurry to make our way around the Cabot Trail. What do you think of stopping mid-way somewhere for an extra day?

That's it for now . . .


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Old Apr 7th, 2008, 06:36 PM
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Paradisefound, thanks for backing me on my suggestion.
Your post is awesome and I will definitely bookmark your recommendations for future reference!!!
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Old Apr 7th, 2008, 06:41 PM
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Oh and what is the name of your B&B?
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Old Apr 7th, 2008, 06:44 PM
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Never mind!! Of course it is your screen name
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Old Apr 8th, 2008, 07:42 AM
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Hi ckwald ... I, like Paradisefound am an Inn keeper too! And, since you did ask about someplace to stay in Annapolis Royal, I will unashamedly recommend the beautiful, historic Bailey House Bed and Breakfast circa 1770 - the only inn on the water in AR. Check out the website at www.baileyhouse.ca
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Old Apr 20th, 2008, 05:49 AM
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ckwald,

The only reason that I recommend staying in the Wolfville area rather than Annapolis Royal is that I am partial to Carwarden B&B having stayed there many times and benefited from Mary's hospitality and great food. Annapolis Royal is also an excellent place to stay. I put Truro in your itinerary only because you suggested you wanted to stay there. If you drop it out, I would recommend going from Lunenburg to Annapolis Royal (where I would recommend Bailey House B&B that is also a member of the B&B Association) and then move on to the Wolfville area fter that. I would then drive straight from Wolfville to Cape Breton ( 3 1/2 hours drive time from Carden B&B to the entrance to Cape Breton Island).

I would also add that if you do intend on visiting Cape Breton for Celtic Colours, book early. Most good properties are booked before the Celtic Colours schedule even comes out.

Cheers
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Old Apr 20th, 2008, 05:52 AM
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I always think that stopping somewhere around the Cabot Trail is worthwhile. It is particularly spectacular in the fall. I would recommend either Cheticamp or Cape North. In Cape North I would recommend Oakwood Manor B&B which, particularly in the fall, is in one of the most spectacular pastoral sttings you will ever find.

Cheers
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Old Apr 20th, 2008, 08:16 AM
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We have done most of the itinerary recommended by paradisefound and highly agree with those suggestions. We were also guests at Paradise Found in 2004 and are still talking about our wonderful time with Rick and Connie Bowers. We visited Louisbourg and Sydney and Sydney mines from this point before returning towards Pictou through the Bras D'or Lakes area. Paradise Found is just that, lovely comfortable accommodation, brilliant food, and a very warm welcome from the hosts. Consider it if it fits your itinerary. (Cheers, Rick, from the Felices in Denver, we're still trying to return!)
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Old Apr 21st, 2008, 03:55 AM
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paradisefound: thanks so much! It' coming clearer for us now and I think we'll be back soon with a revised schedule for your input, if you'd be so kind!

You too, oliverandharry! Thank you.
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Old Apr 21st, 2008, 06:49 PM
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ckwald,

I'd be happy to answer any questions you may have. And hello to Dave & Kelly Felice. Time really passes fast when you're having fun - it was actually 2002 when you visited us. Hope to see you back some time. We'll put the snow crab in the pot. We wish you and your country good luck come October.

Cheers
Rick & Connie
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Old Jun 24th, 2008, 08:03 PM
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Hello all
we only have 10 days. looks like we should have planned more. can someone help us out with an itinerary. we just want to see some beautiful stuff and get away from our kids for our anniversary. my husband would like to visit a fishing village and we have never done the bed and breakfast but would like to give it a try. Can someone give us a 10 day july itinerary and some suggestions on where to stay. i am kind of phobic about not having a room booked every night but if we might be able just stay where we end up i think it would be cool.
thanks
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Old Jun 24th, 2008, 08:10 PM
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Jwuch, are you ckwald, the original poster?

If so, letting folks know since you have a different name now will help prevent the next comment...

If not, if you can provide some info about your likes and dislikes, budget, etc. will help folks make suggestions.
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Old Jun 25th, 2008, 06:18 PM
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jwuch,
I posted my trip report on Nova Scotia (posted it on 6/23). We just returned. My itinerary & lodgings might be of interest to you.
Karen

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