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Amazed How Many New Things I Discovered on My 3rd Trip to Vancouver

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Amazed How Many New Things I Discovered on My 3rd Trip to Vancouver

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Old Jul 3rd, 2013, 05:10 PM
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Amazed How Many New Things I Discovered on My 3rd Trip to Vancouver

OK, so one of my closest friends moved back to BC after spending over 17 years in Quebec, a move that triggered my visit to Vancouver. It had been 5 years since I had seen the city (in 2008 I had a quick 4-hour layover in Vancouver after visiting Victoria,—just enough time to eat some sushi and stroll along English Bay Beach), and 8 years since I had paid a real visit to Vancouver (in 2005, I spent 4 nights in Canada’s 3rd largest metropolis). Let’s just say, it had been too long since I’d been to this gorgeously situated city with to-die-for, often inexpensive sushi the likes of which you just can’t find in the east!

This time, I picked the Sylvia Hotel, for its location right by English Bay Beach and with a bike rental shop right nearby , so I could get exercise in Stanley Park. I went for the cheapest room possible and I was happy as a clam for my 4 nights there.

Even though when I had visited Vancouver in 2005, I had pretty action-filled days including exploring downtown, the Seawall, Grouse Mountain, the Capilano Suspension Bridge, Gastown, Dr. Sun-Yat Sen Gardens, Kitsilano Beach, the Museum of Anthropology and Wreck Beach, remarkably enough, this trip my activities only slightly overlapped with what I had done 8 years ago, which testifies to the terrific diversity of activity to be found in BC’s largest metropolis. And to boot, all my trips have been without renting a car!

As on previous trips, I enjoyed the Seawall along English Bay Beach, the water/mountain views of Stanley Park & Kitsilano Beach as well as the restaurants along Denman, Davie and Robson Streets. Even though it was not SO long ago, I found a nostalgic pleasure to be back in places that kindled a love & curiosity about the Pacific Northwest region.

*So, you ask, what did I do differently from previous trips?*
I was really blessed in a way this trip to be guided by my friend William who had grown up in British Columbia, had lived in Vancouver for a short while 20 years ago, and had moved back to an apartment two short blocks from Kitsilano Beach earlier in the spring. I felt in some way I was seeing the city for the first time from a quasi-insider’s perspective (he grew up mostly on Vancouver Island, although his parents lived in Burnaby in the '70s and his grandmother lived only a few blocks away in Kitsilano, back when Kits' was inexpensive and not yet coveted real estate).

On my first full day, we did what we would always do in Montreal, get on our bikes and meander! And he made me realize how much of Stanley Park I’d actually missed on my previous trip, having mostly only walked along the outermost path beside the water. The *inside* of Stanley Park has trails that truly make you feel like you’re in untouched temperate rain forest in places, miles away from civilization even… and here you are only a short bike ride from the glassy skyscrapers and hubbub of Canada’s most expensive city! Incredible… I was glad I was with William, as I think I might never have found my way out of the labyrinthine park center on my own . From there, we cycled along the English Bay Front, around by the Olympic Village, past Granville Island and finally over toward his apartment by Kitsilano Beach. I actually hadn’t seen Granville Island on my previous visits and although the area had a generic-tourist-trap feel à la Fisherman’s Wharf San Francisco, I did enjoy seeing the houseboats, admiring the craftsmanship at the woodworking shops and stopping for beer samplers at Granville Island Brewing Company. My friend generally sees the glass half-empty, but I tried to impress on him how lucky he was to have beautiful mountains, a beach, a salt-water public swimming pool and plenty of terrific shops & restaurants on 4th Avenue within easy walking distance. (Naam is an amazing vegetarian restaurant by the way, if life happens to bring you to Kitsilano and you happen to enjoy vegetarian cuisine.) Plus, he can actually walk to his job!

Somehow, I managed to convince reluctant William to come out with me to see Lynn Canyon Suspension Bridge on the 2nd day. Fodorite Carmanah has it right when she tells people to go to this FREE suspension bridge rather than the Capilano Suspension Bridge ($34.95/adult). Lynn Canyon is equally as accessible as Capilano by public transit from downtown; all you have to do is catch the #228 bus after taking the Seabus to Lonsdale Quay. Lynn Canyon offers the same suspension bridge experience in an equally beautiful, equally dramatic temperate rain forest setting with waterfalls, rushing water, handsome tall trees and even a cappuccino/lunch bar at top if you’re feeling peckish. I think my excitement to be in the locale was mildly contagious and infected Will mildly, even though he doesn’t get excited about much and told me beforehand, “it’s just another park”. I strongly disagree with the “another park” comment unless all parks in BC are this breathtakingly gorgeous. Anyhow, I know even if I tell you that when I’m in Vancouver again, I’ll be seeking out the amazing & free beauty of Lynn Canyon as long as I can walk and have absolutely no desire to see the Capilano Suspension Bridge ever again since Capilano offers nothing Lynn doesn’t, that curiosity will get to you and you’ll go to the Capilano Bridge once just to see if the $35 really does get you something better. Those Capilano folks have a good scam going, I tell you, and will continue to rope in the uninitiated (who probably fall into the trap of thinking $35 must be better than free) every time.

After mornings exercising and doing exciting chores such as laundry my 3rd day I explored the Van Dusen Gardens (near: 41st and Oakridge Skytrain Stop) and my 4th day, I visited Queen Elizabeth Park and the Bloedel Conservatory (near: King Edward Skytrain Stop). The Van Dusen Gardens and Queen Elizabeth Park both have beautifully landscaped and planned gardens and I’d recommend seeing both, even though the former is ca. $10 and the latter is free. While the Van Dusen Gardens have Chinese & Japanese gardens amongst many other themes with plenty of ponds and a maze, the Queen Elizabeth Park gardens in quarries I felt were equally compelling as the Van Dusen Gardens what with their hollowed-out locale and equally gorgeous flower selection. The Bloedel Conservatory inside Queen Elizabeth Park for $6.50 served up a selection of unbelievably colourful birds in a warm, humid jungle-like greenhouse. Fire engine red & navy blue macaws, turquoise blue and yellow parrots amongst many others, the feast of colour was mind-blowing I tell you.

The worst part about spending 7 days in the Pacific Northwest (Portland OR for 3 nights for the first time ever followed by the 4 nights described here in Vancouver) is that at one point it’s time to go. Pacific Northwest, I don’t know when I’ll see your snow-capped mountains, tall trees, ferns in temperate rain forest and dramatic scenery next, but know that when I do, I am sure to be “wow”ed by your difference once again!
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Old Jul 3rd, 2013, 06:18 PM
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I'm bookmarking this to read later!

We're off to Vancouver in a couple of weeks and after a week in the city we will take Amtrak and stay 3 nights in Olympic National Park and fly home from Seattle.
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Old Jul 3rd, 2013, 09:28 PM
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Great report Daniel. Glad you went to Lynn Canyon. I grew up in North Van a million years ago and when we had company the first place we took them was to the Lynn Canyon suspension bridge. The sad thing for me is that when I go back to North Van there is nothing left of the old days. My schools are gone - Marine Drive where I lived used to be a two lane road and homes were well spaced out with maybe a block or two between them. My husband is from Montreal and moved to North Van years later. He didn't understand why I don't like going back (live in Victoria now). When we were in Montreal we got on the subway which they didn't have when he lived there. We got off at a station where he used to live. There was his house, his school, the movie theatre, the shops etc. I just said "I rest my case"!!!
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Old Jul 4th, 2013, 11:35 AM
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Van Dusen gardens hardly gets the attention it deserves; truly spectacular. We did spot a couple of coyotes wandering around in the distance (there are signs alerting you at the entrance not to approach them). It's out of the "touristy" areas and for a little while, you can almost convince yourself that Vancouver is "your" city.

Lynn Canyon is another wonderful stop amongst Vancouver's free or mostly free areas. I will say, though, that we finally paid a visit again to Capilano after some years away, and were very pleased to find that it's been greatly expanded and improved. This time I felt we got our money's worth, since there is a lot more to explore than just a suspension bridge. But for those who are only visiting for a few days or otherwise trying to budget, no need to go into Capilano.

Down here in Orlando, all the "parks" tend to be theme parks with fake scenery, masses of people, schlocky souvenirs, junk food, and dirtier than they once were. BC is a wonderland of natural beauty, and without that vacuum hose stuck into your wallet.

traveller69 - I was just thinking how Marine Drive must have looked at one time, you can just see how it has grown. Sad, in a way. Hope things are going ok for you?

Loved your report, Daniel!
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Old Jul 4th, 2013, 12:38 PM
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sassy_cat-- What a terrific trip you have planned! I hope you enjoy it as much as I did mine.

traveller69-- I think my BC-friend William too finds the changes since when he was a kid hard to stomach. When his uncle & grandmother, regular folks with regular jobs, could live in West End and Kitsilano, which were affordable; the hippies have been replaced by $200 Lululemon yoga-pants-wearing rich kids; the house his father built in Tofino, which he loved for its remote beauty and its distance from civilization, where Will used to be the only white kid on his school bus of First Nation kids; that house is now worth $4 million and Tofino is now a prime spot on the tourist rounds of British Columbia. He feels his childhood world is Gone With the Wind.

sludick-- I agree that Capilano is every bit as beautiful as Lynn Canyon and has a few extras, like signs on the trees and treehouse pathways, to name two. And both Lynn Canyon and Capilano are much more than suspension bridges, absolutely true. I just question whether Capilano is worth $35 more per person to me. I agree that there are worse wallet vacuum hoses out there, such as popcorn at the cinema or food at certain theme parks, when they've got you captive!

Coyotes by Van Dusen Gardens, eh? *Gulp*
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Old Jul 4th, 2013, 02:22 PM
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There are SO many options in Vancouver. Guess that's why we keep finding reasons we have to go back just about every year. Even last fall, we spent a week in Durango, and then just HAD to head toward Vancouver for another week... after all, once we go that far from Florida, may as well...

Each time, we find more to do and see, other than the usual tourist stuff. So glad to know we aren't alone in that. Now you have plenty of reason to go back, with a friend living there. What did you like most about the Sylvia Hotel, by the way?
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Old Jul 4th, 2013, 03:48 PM
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hi daniel, glad to hear you made it back to the west coast. when i was in ottawa for a week mid june , i overused the bixi bicycle network. @ $12/ 72 hrs, it's quite the bargain compared to bicycle rental in vancouver ( of course if one doesn't want to pay extra charges, one needs to return and replace every 30 minutes. the system has expanded quite a bit since inaguaration 2 years ago.

van dusen gardens, too right! i think it is far more appealing than our ( victoria's) butchardt and much less expensive.

in 2000 i made my first visit to vancouver and stayed @ the sylvia. this was before the refurbishment and rate rise. i had a single room that bridged the driveway to the parkade from the hotel. as i recall the bathtub was bigger than the bedroom, but at the time it was about $70.

through the kindness of a friend, i now stay @ special rate @ the coast plaza around the corner. you still can't beat the location and value of the sylvia.

i just submitted a scholarship application for a conference in montrealend of september. if i get a bourse , i'll need to pick your brain. aside from changing trains and planes, i don't believe i've been in montreal since 1972! yikes

i hope you hit a patch of nice weather while you were in van; makes bicycling so much nicer imo

cheers
AndrewDavid
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Old Jul 5th, 2013, 06:21 AM
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Sludick, AndrewDavid-- In answer to your question, Sludick, my favorite thing about the Sylvia was the location, with the large window that overlooked the English Bay. Around the corner, walk one block down and there you were at the English Day and equally one block left and there you were at Denman and Davie with all their coffee and restaurant (sushi!) options. I got the so-called "closet bedroom" for $110; they don't advertise it on the website because of its small size, but it was fine by me to be so well-situated and indeed bigger than places I've stayed in New York, Boston and Amsterdam, to name three

AndrewDavid-- I saw the Vancouver of Vancouverites' complaint. Grey skies, drizzling or a pelting rain. On my second-last-day when there were puddles on the streets and my socks were wet, I remember thinking that I "got" why the clouds and lack of predictability would get some people down as I felt my eyelids felt strangely heavy that day. However, there was the occasional sun and times of overcast-but-not-raining & these I took full advantage of. I biked with my friend on the nicest sunniest day. For Lynn Canyon, it had looked good in the morning, but was drizzly by the time we got there .

I'll be happy to help with all Montreal queries if the scholarship works out.
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Old Jul 5th, 2013, 07:35 AM
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This trip I combined a visit to Portland, Oregon with Vancouver, taking Amtrak's Cascades between Portland and Vancouver. I'd never been to Portland before, so that portion of the trip was one of entirely new discoveries for me. For those who are interested, I include the link to my Portland portion of the trip below (on the US channel of Fodor's naturally).

http://www.fodors.com/community/unit...c-by-train.cfm
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Old Jul 7th, 2013, 12:20 PM
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Hey Daniel,

I am "Carmanah" - that's my old online moniker from yesteryear.

Capilano Suspension Bridge has expanded into including more attractions - a very popular Cliff Walk: http://www.capbridge.com/explore/cliffwalk/ and a tree-top suspension bridge walkway, so it has actually more to offer than just a big suspension bridge

Years ago when I used to trash the place, it's because I too thought it was just a shlocky ripoff tourist trap. But apparently they listened, and now they have even more gimmicks which tourists seem to love. So the $35 price is no longer the gouge it once was.

However, I still believe, if you're just wanting a walk in rainforest and a suspension bridge, Lynn Canyon is the way to go. Capilano is still very much a tourist attraction with its goal to make money.

Next time you come to Vancouver, you have to explore its other neighbourhoods, mainly Commercial Drive and Main Street. You'd be surprised... totally different atmospheres/cultures from Kits or downtown.
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Old Jul 7th, 2013, 12:24 PM
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... and I also agree, the best attractions in Vancouver are those which are free. You could spend a whole week here in the natural spaces - the beaches, the mountains, the rainforests, without spending a dime (other than your transportation).

Visitors used to the whole Orlando Disneyworld style of vacations don't quite get that you don't have to pay admission fees to experience things in Vancouver, and still seek out those types of attractions (ie: Capilano, Grouse, etc.) but there's absolutely no need.

And VanDusen is rather amazing. Queen Elizabeth Park too. I'm still perplexed at the number of tourists who only have a day in Vancouver and insist in travelling 4 hours (one way!) to get to Victoria's Butchart Gardens. Just shows you what a large scale marketing budget can do.
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Old Jul 8th, 2013, 05:23 PM
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Hi BC_Robyn (or should I say the artist formerly known as Carmanah?),

I must admit to enjoying Butchart Gardens; the views of the bay and the layout of flowers in my opinion were truly special and phenomenal. However, now that I've been, I think of it more as what one does as a day outing when spending a few days in Victoria, not as something to do as a long day trip out of Vancouver. As you say and is noted in this report, there's so much to see in Vancouver and its immediate surroundings. I suppose though certain people have Butchart Gardens on their "bucket list" and wonder if/when they'll be so close again, so feel an obligation to cram Butchart Gardens in with Vancouver due to its reputation.

Thanks for mentioning Commercial Drive & Main Street; definite exploring points when I'm next in the city!
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Old Jul 8th, 2013, 07:05 PM
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OMG, BC_Robyn!! You were Carmanah? I have often wanted to choose a different/more fun name, but was reluctant to lose continuity.

Good description of the "new" Capilano and the general feeling of Vancouver scene. I grew up in the San Francisco Bay Area, but Vancouver just calls to me more. One reason is that it's not quite so dedicated to collecting fees for stuff. When I moved to the East Coast, I was amazed at the Smithsonian (free).

Anyway - really glad to have you around in my favorite place. Enjoy! (btw - have you been up to Lund recently, to Laughing Oyster?)
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Old Aug 10th, 2013, 05:47 PM
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Daniel, thanks for your wonderful report. We spent only 5 days in Vancouver and quickly realized we were very short of time. So glad to learn about van Dusen and Queen Elizabeth parks as well as Lynn Canyon. Like you, our time in Stanley Park was spent walking around the outer trail, so I can't wait to return to explore it further. I hope we can return next year; this year will be spent in Banff and Jasper.
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Old Aug 11th, 2013, 02:21 PM
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sludick - my DD is living in Powell River (for her sins) and
to celebrate their 15th anni. they stayed at the Lund Hotel
in the - get this - Michael Buble suite. Oh yeah. The
Laughing Oyster shuttle picked them up and they had a terrific
evening there - live band - and then they were shuttled back
to the MB Suite for the night.

Evidently, Mr. B is building a 'cabin' north of Lund amonst
an enclave of luxury cottages mostly owned by Californians.
Hence the Lund Hotel. Boy, I remember that place in the 80s
and no one would willingly bunk down there!
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Old Aug 11th, 2013, 02:21 PM
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..amongst...
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Old Aug 11th, 2013, 02:37 PM
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Bite your tongue, that sounds like a wonderful way to celebrate their anniversary! How did they manage the MB suite?

We were first put into an ok room, nice enough. But there was a problem with the television and internet, and they moved us to a really really nice room in the front - not a suite, but definitely upscale. They've come a long way. (P.S., we would go back in a heartbeat, especially if the Laughing Oyster shuttle would pick us up.)
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Old Aug 12th, 2013, 06:45 AM
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I am glad that you had a great visit. We recently stayed in Vancouver (from the island) for a week and biked around Stanley park, English Bay over to Granville Island all on a bike path. I was so impressed with how bike friendly Vancouver is now because of the new mayor. When I lived there 20 years ago it was much more of a challenge to compete with the cars.
I loved being a tourist in Vancouver as well. It is a fantastic city.
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Old Aug 12th, 2013, 09:18 AM
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I am bookmarking to read later.
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Old Aug 12th, 2013, 02:09 PM
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slidick - I think S-I-L just asked for the 'bridal suite'.lol.

Yes, few places as serene as the LO in a summer eve...
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