janisj

Got back late Friday night and had a really fabulous time! I'll post a full trip report here later tonight or tomorrow morning -- but wanted to just start w/ thanks to those who helped me w/ advice/suggestions. Saw tons, ate LOTS of good food, and walked my legs off (And helped the BC economy quiite a bit along the way)

traveller69

I'll be looking forward to it! Glad you had a good time.

janisj

I haven't forgotten . . . . its just that "stuff" happens and I can't get to the report until (hopefully) tomorrow.

traveller69

Okay I will wait with baited breath!!!

laverendrye

"Okay I will wait with baited breath!!!"

Curious to know what you will bait it with.

SOCALOC

Darn janisj, this is about my 4th stop by for your report. Will return.

traveller69

laverendrye I will leave "bated" to Shakespeare and go with
Geoffrey Taylor

Sally, having swallowed cheese,
Directs down holes the scented breeze,
Enticing thus with baited breath
Nice mice to an untimely death.

laverendrye

Well said, traveller. Now I know.

janisj

Here goes -- Finally (!)

<B>May 22 - Seattle - Clipper ferry - Marketa's</B>

I flew in early AM from SMF to SeaTac on Southwest. Wouldn't you know -- I get a really low number (A26) but didn't hear the announcement for the flight so ended up boarding in the B group. Thankfully the plane was only about 1/2 full so got a window seat in the exit row of 2 and no one sat in the aisle seat. So I didn't miss out by missing my boarding group. That's a first.

Since I only traveled w/ a small carry on I went straight to the light rail station w/o having to wait for luggage. Just missed a train leaving. Next one came in about 5 minutes- just long enough to figure out the ticket machine -- and figure out you really don't want to use a $20 -- anyone want several $1 coins - I got lots in the change

A young guy w/ what looked like a marine boot camp hair cut asked me everything about the light rail/ticket machine/route -- just peppered me w/ questions. I told him it was my first time too but I'd help if I could and walked him through buying his ticket. He suddenly became my BFF and stuck to me like glue for the ride in to Seattle. We got on an empty car and he sat across from me and TALKED all the way into town. Heard his whole life story - that big cities make him nervous and he'd never been on a light rail or train and only flown 2 times. He wasn't dangerous or anything - more a bit overwhelmed by things.

The light rail was great - I sure wish they figure out how to finance an airport extension for ours in Sacramento. Get on the train at the airport and get off at Westlake center in the middle of Seattle for $2.50.

I walked about 5 blocks from the station to the office where Fodorite suze works. She had graciously offered to stow my carry on until the afternoon ferry. It was great meeting suze -- a mini GTG -- she is really warm/friendly and we had a fun lunch later that day. (But aren't ALL Fodorites warm/friendly -- Don't answer that.)

I walked back towards Westlake - did a bit of shopping at Macy's and Nordy's and then down to Pikes Place market. I've been there before but didn't even get as far as the fish throwers because it was sooooo crowded. This was on a Tuesday morning and the place was slammed. I was really surprised. So I got out of there and wandered up Post Alley and visited a tea shop and a few others I had been to previously.

It was bout 11:30 so I walked back to suze's office, picked up my bag and we walked over to Cutter's for lunch. I had the beer sampler -- three local beers (2 pale ales and a stout-ish brew I don't remember the name of). It was $5 and since most of the beers on the menu were $5 or $5.50,I figured it would just be a few ounces of each. I figured wrong. They were nearly full sized glasses - maybe 6 oz each.so I ended up w/ a bit of a buzz .

I ordered a Scallops/Tiger Prawns/Salmon/Rissotto plate that was REALLY tasty. There was a sort of guacamole but not really side that was one of the best avocado dishes I've ever had. Suze had a fish taco plate and she said hers was yummy too. After lunch she walked me down the elevator and partway to the ferry terminal. It was a beautiful day - I walked along the water front to the clipper terminal and checked in. Still had an hour+ so I wandered through the sculpture garden and back to the ferry. Stopped for an iced tea in a small place and the girl behind the counter knows Spencer Hawes and Jon Brockman (two of my favorites - Spencer was a King until he was traded about a week ago and Jon is a restricted free agent still on the team)

It was then time to board the ferry - they made several announcement that they sell Mec-lizine (sp?) for 25¢. I don't usually get seasick but they were pushing the meclizine and it was pretty windy so figured what the heck. I figured - for 25¢ it can't be much of a dose. Once again I figure wrong. I took the two tiny pills and while I didn't exactly sleep across to Victoria -- I wasn't exactly awake either Maybe it was the beer instead ??

OK -- I can be as "green" as the next person -- and hey I do get recycling. Honest. But really. The Captain/first mate/somebody kept making announcements about recycling. Not just something like "<i>We recycle on the Victoria Clipper so please place your trash in the appropriate receptacle</i>". But full blown lectures about recycling, the environment, the damage people do. REALLY droning/preachy/loooong. I was almost tempted to toss my water bottle overboard.

Arrived in Victoria a little past 6:00 and it was absolutely beautiful. Marketa's is a quirky B&B about 4 blocks from the ferry landing so it was an easy walk. When I walked up the front steps there was an envelope on the door w/ my name on it. Marketa had been called away and here were my keys to the front door, my room and info about b'fast etc. Apparently there are 3 sorts of rooms -- budget w/o private bath, budget w/ bath, and deluxe. I opted for budget/bath and it was great. Nice room, Victorian decor w/ several of the owner'spaintings, decent bathroom (but only a shower - I would miss that soaking tub after walking my legs off every day), next to the residents lounge and across from the kitchen and breakfast room.

After unpacking I walked over to the Blue Crab in the Coast hotel which is only about 3 blocks from the B&B. Someone (traveller69 ?) recommended this place for dinner w/ a view. I'll have to try it another time -- it was totally booked up but it did look really nice.

I walked over to the BC Museum and wandered through the grounds looking at the totem poles and the longhouse. It was after 7:30 so I figured the Tourist Office was long closed - but after walking through the Empress I walked over to the TO and while the building itself was closed they are still staffed at walk up windows until (I think) 8PM. I picked up a better map and booked my trip to Butchart Gardens for Thursday.

While at the TO I noticed Milestone's restaurant in the same complex. The menu looked good and I was starving. Was going to have seafood -- well duh -- but the description of their lamb sirloins w/ pomegranate chutney sounded too good to pass up. It was really terrific - and quite a large portion. Washed it down w/ Raspberry mimosa. Yeah I know they don't seem to go together - but what the heck. I'm on holiday and rules are to be broken.

Stumbled back to Marketa's and was probably asleep before 10PM . . .

Next: <B>Day 2 -- Gov't House Gardens, Craigdarroch Gardens, Royal BC Museum, Tea at the Empress -- walking my legs off and meeting some characters</B> . . . .

SOCALOC

It was bout 11:30 so I walked back to suze's office, picked up my bag and we walked over to Cutter's for lunch. I had the beer sampler -- three local beers (2 pale ales and a stout-ish brew I don't remember the name of). It was $5 and since most of the beers on the menu were $5 or $5.50,I figured it would just be a few ounces of each. I figured wrong. They were nearly full sized glasses - maybe 6 oz each.so I ended up w/ a bit of a buzz .

Stumbled back to Marketa's and was probably asleep before 10PM . . .
__________________________________________________ ___________
woohoo! You're on vacation!
It was only $2.50 to get to Seattle by rail? Boy, next time we'll skip that cab ride for sure. It PAYS to be patient.
looking forward to day 2.....

yk

All this food description is making me very hungry, janis! Keep your report coming! I've been to Seattle but never to Victoria - so can't wait to read about the rest.

janisj

<B>May 23 -- Gov't House Gardens, Craigdarroch Gardens, Royal BC Museum, Tea at the Empress -- walking my legs off and meeting some characters . . .</B>

One loose end from yesterday . . . When I let myself in to Marketa's the doors to the two front bedrooms (in the front hall just after passing the teensy office area) were standing open. A middle aged woman was sitting in a chair in one room and a tiny white haired woman was reading the newspaper in the other room. At first it seemed weird-ish to have the rooms open like that. I said "hi" and continued down the hall to my room. I figured the two ladies might have been here a while so might know where the nearest ATM is. I went back front and asked the younger woman. She said her M-i-L across the hall needs to find one too. So I cross the hall and tell her if I find an ATM, I'll be sure to let her know.

Wellll -- this started a long conversation and I have another BFF . They were a 3 generation mid 20's daughter, early 50's mother, 87 yomother-in-law from Florida visiting for just a few days while the rest of the clan stayed on Whidby Island. First thing out of MiL's mouth was "That's very nice of you -- even if you ARE from California!" Thought she was just kidding -- but it was a theme. Each time we spoke over the next two days she said something like "Everyone knows folks from FL and CA don't get along - but you just prove SOME of you are OK"

A couple of days later D-i-L whispered in my ear during B'fast "She REALLY likes you -- how about taking her off our hands for a bit. It might save a manslaughter conviction"

OK - day 2. They supposedly breakfast from 8:30 - 9:00. But they really mean starting then because there is no way they can serve a full house in 30mins. And Tuesday was a FULL house. Every seat was occupied and the FL ladies were out on the deck. I don't know what they would have done if it had been cold or rainy. Fortunately it was a GORGEOUS morning.

The breakfast menu has something for eveyone -- eggs benedict, eggs florentine, French toast, or just bagels w/ smoked salmon and everything in between. <i>The breakfast menu has something for eveyone</i> EXCEPT for the woman who sat at my table w/ her 5 yo and 14 yo sons. She was most upset that there was <B>nothing</B> she could eat. She went into much detail about her dietary requirements (while the 14 yo dug into french toast and the 5 yo had bagels w/ cream cheese and his first ever smoked salmon, and capers which he ate like candy)

Apparently she can only eat 5 things - she brings 4 of them and relied on the B&B to provide the non-dairy dairy. They had both soy and rice milk on hand - but that wouldn't do. There was sugar in both. She was outraged (honestly fuming) that she would starve and she could feel her blood sugar levels crashing while the kids were enjoying their meals immensely. This was another theme -- the next morning she fumed that there was only one place in all of Victoria she could find w/ appropriate foodstuffs. I'm sorry -- but if there are only 5 things you can eat, and they have to have specific ingredients, and it is life threatening (that is the term she used) -- wouldn't you darn well bring your own???

Anyway - I had a wonderful breakfast -- and the two boys were nice table mates, partly making up for the ditzy mom.

I mentioned to the kids (yes, in Marketa's absence 4 young adults were in charge and managing some pretty complex dishes) that I was going to walk to the Gov't House Gardens, Craigdarroch Castle, the museum and finally tea at 5:15. They said it might look walkable on the map, but it would all be up hill to Government House and a bus would be better. Looking at the map -- by the time I had walked over to Fort St to catch the bus, I would have walked half the distance to Gov't House. So . . . I took the practical way out and walked over to the Coast Hotel and hailed a cab

Man - the gardens are beautiful, and w/ gorgeous views to the mountains across the water. 35 acres, two rose gardens, lots of perennials, alpines and bedding plants mostly tended by volunteers.

Appearances can be deceiving . . . While I was walking through the gardens I saw a woman coming towards me walking a Welsh Terrier. OK -- here is the first impression part. I live in N.Calif and this lady looked like a very typical character one would often see in the Chinatown neighborhoods in Sacramento or SF. Elderly Chinese woman in a gray high necked jacket, baggy black pants, fabric shoes, sort of shuffling along. What you might call a "Mama san". Around here most of these elderly Chinese women speak little or no English - my friend's grandmother fits the description.

Well even though I just "knew" she wouldn't understand me -- I said "Hi, is that a Welsh Terrier?" . . . . Not only did she speak perfect English -- she is a retired nurse who studied in Edinburgh, lived in Liverpool, lived in Paris for a couple of years, and had so many adventures to share. I've had Welsh terriers, Airedales and Scotties and so has she. She had just lost her elderly Airedale and the Welsh terrier was pining for her friend. They keep asking her to volunteer in the Garden, but "<i>Those women - they just want to pull up everything and make things too manicured. Let things GROW!</i>" We sat on a bench in that beautiful garden looking at the views for nearly 1/2 and hour. Another BFF!

I reluctantly pulled myself away and walked the couple of blocks down the hill to Craigdarroch Castle. This is a huge/fascinating/ornate Victorian mansion and you are allowed into almost every room. The most amazing paneling --but interestingly -- not local Fir or redwood, but white pine imported from Chicago. I spent maybe 45 minutes exploring the house and then met a fellow out on the lawn painting really vibrant/almost neon colored images of this dark/Victorian house. By this time it was bloody warm and I decided it was time to head down to the BC museum. Caught a bus just down the road from the castle.

To be continued -- Royal BC Museum and Tea at the Empress . . .

janisj

oops - " And Tuesday night was a FULL house." - this was Wed.morning . . . .

Daniel_Williams

Janisj

Enjoying your report. Seattle and Victoria are North American gems. Don't you just love the scenery in the Pacific Northwest?

Best wishes, Daniel

yk

You meet the most interesting folks on your trips! Can I be your next BFF?

traveller69

Great report janis - looking forward to the next installment.

suze

whoo-hoo! hey i've never been in a Trip Report before. this is cool. i'm flattered. thanks for the fun lunch, janisj.

(socaloc) the Lightrail from the airport is brand new, so probably wasn't yet available unless you've been in Seattle just the past couple months.

Fodorite018

janis--I am thoroughly enjoying this! Seattle is our second home, if you will. DH lives there during the week actually. Anyway, we too loved Victoria. We found Milestones on our first day and had a nice meal there. I was surprised it was as good as it was. With the location I wasn't expecting much. Can't wait to read the rest!

Toucan2

Loving the trip report, and jealous you got to meet Suze ;-)

I'm also excited to hear that the light rail extends all the way to the airport now!

janisj

Thanks everyone - here is the rest of day two:

<B>May 23 cont. - Royal BC Museum and Tea at the Empress . . .</B>

The bus goes runs from just down the hill from Craigdarroch Castle down Fort St almost to the harbor and only about 4 blocks from the Royal BC Museum. It was a very warm day but w/ the breeze off the water it was fine. I walked to the museum and went up to the ticket window and asked what qualifies as "senior" - I said "darn, I don't qualify, one adult please." She charged me the senior concession price and I said -- "oh -- I don't qualify for the discount."-- And she said "Welcome to Victoria"

This museum is amazing -- there is also an IMax theatre and you can buy a combined ticket. I decided to just concentrate on the museum and the bldgs in the grounds. The museum is basically divided w/ the third floor dedicated to Human History from the First Peoples up to the 20th Century, and the second floor being the Natural History/Animals galleries.

I went up to the top floor and worked my way south. The displays are really well done -- some of the more modern (19th/20th century) galleries reminded me a lot of the wonderful York Castle museum in England. My only 'issue' was the light levels in most of the First Peoples galleries are <u>extremely</u> low. I know they need to protect the artifacts from light damage -- but I don't think I've been in any museum w/ so many rooms w/ such low light levels.

Then down to the 2nd floor for the natural history areas. These held some of the best dioramas I've ever seen. I missed by 2 days the opening of the new "Behind the Scenes" exhibit that looks really interesting.

I went down to the cafe - my booking for tea was not until 5:30 but I didn't want to eat and risk spoiling my appetite. So I had a small beer, phoned home, and then discovered they have an internet cafe. $2 for 20 mins (I think that's right) so I checked my e-mail and just caught up a bit.

Then I walked back out into the Museum lobby and spotted the 5yo son of the B&B "crazy food lady". I walked up to him and said "Hi, are you having a good time?" He sort of freaked and ran to hide behind his big brother -- and then peeked out and realized it was me and ran back to me and "oh you are from breakfast!" and hugged me. His mom looked none too pleased -- I think she also didn't recognize at first. She finally said "Hi" and left the boys to chat w/ me. She was asking the info desk how long a drive to a campground somewhere up along the NW side of the island (I sure hope she'd found a source for her special foods)

Hit the very nice museum gift shop -- but exercised total sales resistance

It was 4:15-ish so I wandered out into the grounds where there is an old one-room schoolhouse and the interesting Helmcken House which is apparently the oldest bldg in the city still in its original location.

On to the Empress - which is basically across the street form the museum.

I've had tea at the Peninsula in HK and several times at the Ritz in London - and this was just as nice. Only difference - at the other two venues they do re-fill your plates if you eat all of any one item. I'm not sure they don't at the Empress, but my plates were not re-filled.

I had booked a table for one and immediately upon sitting down, the host brought me a really interesting book about the history of the hotel/family. I glanced around and none of the other tables had any reading material -- I can only assume they offered me the book as an "<i>in case she is uncomfortable sitting solo</i>" diversion. I didn't need the book for that -- but it was a fascinating book and I'll be on the look out for a copy (should have asked when I left but it slipped my mind)

I started w/ a glass of Champagne and then had the full afternoon tea. I opted for the Empress blend tea The sandwiches included smoked salmon, ginger/carrot cream cheese, curry chicken w/ mango (maybe my fave), minced mushroom/truffle oil, and cucumber. They were all excellent. Plus fresh fruit w/ cream, scones/clotted cream/strawberry preserves, and 5 different pastries/tarts/sweets.

When she brought the bill - on the tray was a decorative tin of 10 special blend tea bags to take home as a souvenir. Total cost including $12 for the champagne and taxes was $71. I think the tea alone is about $50.

After wandering around the hotel, checking out the rose garden, scoping the Bengal Room maybe for dinner or lunch Thurs/Fri, and the amazing jewelry shop and art gallery, I walked out around the harbor and through the grounds of the BC Assembly bldg and listened to some really good street performers. Eventually trudged back to Marketa's and fell into bed around 9:30

<B>Next: May 24 - Butchart, Butchart, Butchart (and sleeping through dinner) . . . . </B>