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New Zealand SI and Auckland

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Old Nov 11th, 2016, 07:08 AM
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New Zealand SI and Auckland

Hi all. Will try to do a trip report since I read a lot of posts when planning ours for July 2016 which was very helpful to us. Got home and got very busy. We are a 40 something couple from New Orleans and the goal is to escape the heat of our summer.

We spent 2 weeks prior in Australia and then flew to Christchurch for another 2 weeks in NZ. It's been over 5 years since the earthquake, but they are still recovering.

We spent the night at Pomeroy's Pub/Bed & Breakfast. Enjoyed dinner and live music. We booked a room on the private courtyard side and didn't hear any noise from the pub. WIFI was good here too, but that became a problem as the trip went on.

It was important to me for WIFI because if I didn't post anything to my parents, I would get a 3am text asking if we were OK. I got a passport plan from ATT and my phone worked great for maps and texting.

This B&B was booked ahead and our place in Queenstown. Since it was slow season there, we decided where to drive each day based on the weather forecast. It worked out very well this way as the only rain we had was the first evening and following morning in Christchurch.
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Old Nov 11th, 2016, 02:22 PM
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I'm looking forward to reading your report!

Lee Ann
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Old Nov 11th, 2016, 04:40 PM
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Along for the ride
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Old Nov 12th, 2016, 05:09 AM
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Here we go. I rented a very small car and I am very comfortable with that. Many others rented a jucy caravan, and they were having loads of fun. The roads are not as wide, no highways and very winding. Sometimes we would drive for hours and only see 2 other cars.

Today we drove across the island by way of Arthur's Pass to Hokitika. Since the West Coast has harsh weather and the next week was looking really good there, we went.

Hokitika seemed like a popular tourist town, but hardly anyone was here. It was easy to find a room on the beach with a balcony. We spent the entire afternoon into evening walking along the beach, meeting people, watching the waves, waiting for sunset. WOW. One of the most beautiful sunsets I've ever seen and so relaxing. There is a lot of Jade here and we were advised on how to look for our own rocks later in the trip.

We aren't foodies, so we got our tourist discount card at New World. It was a cheese, fruit, bread and NZ wine on our hotel balcony dinner. There is a free glow worm dell not far from town and we gave that a look.

The next morning we went to the National Kiwi Center to see the kiwi and their species of crawfish (since we eat them here). Crawfish, not kiwi of course.

Then the Hokitika Gorge was a 30 minute drive and a not to miss site. The drive was gorgeous, the water was stunningly beautiful and I have never seen anything like this. The walk was easy and the little fantail birds were putting on quite the show.
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Old Nov 12th, 2016, 05:49 AM
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Crossing my fingers for continued good weather!
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Old Nov 12th, 2016, 02:10 PM
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We are off to the glaciers. Franz Josef and Fox. Bright, sunny and another gorgeous day. I am loving the coastal part of the drive and views of the Tasman Sea. Today was a long hike and being able to dip your water bottle in the lakes and rivers is lovely. We got as close to the glacier as we could without a helicopter ride. Those were lifting off frequently. We considered spending the night here, but we wanted to drive more and had some daylight left. Needed to keep making our way to Queenstown. Stayed at the Heartland World Heritage Hotel in Haast. Nothing special, but we caught up with a huge group of Chinese tourists and didn't want to chance not getting a room.

We were becoming fascinated with all of the single track bridges along the way. Got a lesson on the bold arrow and not bold arrow on who has the right of way. One was so long, there were several pullover areas and another one a train crossed over.

We watched the sunrise on Haast Beach with other Americans that were doing the caravan thing. I read about all the "top drives" in the world to take. Haast Pass was not listed as one of them, but to me I couldn't imagine anything more beautiful. Mountains and Lakes Wanaka & Hawea. I thought we would never make it to Wanaka because the DH kept pulling over to take photos. Good that I also have loads of food/snacks in the car. We also stopped to do the Blue Pools hike. It was a chilly day with frost on the rocks and swingbridge.

I did book our Wanaka hotel when we were in Haast. We were told it was going to be super crowded, but I had no problem finding a room. The winter was so mild that not many people were there. Most of the ski fields were making snow.

Food was overall very expensive in NZ. We went to Kai Whaka Pai in Wanaka after snacking all day and really enjoyed a delicious casual meal.
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Old Nov 15th, 2016, 07:34 AM
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The next morning in Wanaka. The winter weather was moving in. The car was covered in ice. The drive was fogged in and we could barely see all of the fruit orchards along the way. A fruit stand here of there was open.

Queenstown. I think we have found the entire population of the South Island. It's cold. It's festive. It's fun.

We booked a one bedroom apartment at Amity Lodge since this is the longest stay of our trip. Happy in our room with local cheese, local wine and a french stick (baguette). We watched the paragliders all day from the balcony with perfect weather. Lots of action sport here.

Fergburger. I don't care for hamburgers, but I waited 45 minutes with a great group of people and ate the whole thing. No beet on my burger! There was the largest piece of lettuce on it. I think they feed lettuce to the cattle instead of the humans. Fantastic.

We came here to ski. Rented the equipment here and drove up very scary road to Cardrona. IT WAS SNOWING THERE. Finally, they said. We paid for the shuttle up the rest of the mountain to avoid putting the chains on. The season had begun over a month ago, but many fields were unable to open.

We also did a tour of Mt Nicholas sheep station. Very interesting to me to learn about the quality of wool. Loved the sheep dog demonstration. Took the boat there. Was lots quicker than to drive around even if we were told that that drive was considered the #1 drive.

There are plenty of vineyards in this region. Most of them were closed in winter. We did stop at Gibbston Valley cheese and that was delicious.
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Old Nov 28th, 2016, 02:10 PM
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Now we are on our way to Dunedin.

We stayed at Hogwarts Hostel in the carriage house. It was recently renovated, great location, a great price and very comfortable. There was an off street parking spot right in front. The owner, of course, had every Harry Potter movie on DVD to borrow. There were plenty of other movie choices too.

We took the very hairy drive out on the Otago Peninsula to the Royal Albatross Centre and stayed to watch the penguins come in for the night.

The next day was a no drive day. I was thrilled. We walked around the city, visited the train station, the Octagon, St Paul's Cathedral and Speights Brewery. Walked the Dunedin Street Art Trail which I loved and since I also love chocolate, the Cadbury Factory. I ate entirely too much chocolate. There were a few snowflakes I spotted that day. I was hoping for more.

It was chocolate festival week, but we would leave before the Jaffa race down Baldwin St. 75,000 balls of candy coated chocolate rolling down the world's steepest residential street. I did get to eat the Jaffas.
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Old Nov 28th, 2016, 02:14 PM
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I can just picture 75,000 orange balls rolling down Baldwin Street - what a hoot!
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Old Nov 29th, 2016, 10:06 AM
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On to Oamaru. We orginally planned a stop here to see the Blue Penguins, but we already saw some. No worries. We were interrupted by seals trying to sleep when we were trying to do a coastal hike. They can be mean, so we would turn around and try another way.

It was a gorgeous day here just spent wandering around the Victorian District. Eating at The Galley on the bay. Looking out at the ocean. Bushy Beach Scenic Reserve is lovely. The people of New Zealand are lovely. We met a couple at dinner that just won $800 on a poker machine and didn't want to stop celebrating.

The following day we did a long scenic drive going inland to Lake Pukaki with a view of Mt Cook and Lake Tekapo. It's never ending vistas and views here.

We stopped at Mt Cook Alpine Salmon and got a plate of sashimi. That was amazingly delicious. The view, the fish, oh, oh, oh. All we did was drive and snack. I had plenty of cheese and french sticks leftover. And pull over so many times to take photos.

We made our way to Rolleston and stayed at Garden View B&B. The owners, a piano teacher and a retired agricultural scientist, met us with tea and cakes. They are so interesting and fantastic hosts. John will know the answer to every question you can have about New Zealand.

The next morning, we will fly to Auckland for the last 4 days until returning home.
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Old Nov 29th, 2016, 04:31 PM
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Thanks for your entertaining and informative report. I'm glad you encountered few other drivers enroute and that Wanaka was not as super-crowded as expected. Your decision to visit in winter was a wise one and I'm sure your business was greatly appreciated.

You mentioned pretty fantails at Hokitika Gorge, did you see any wekas in the parking lot? They look like this:
http://www.doc.govt.nz/nature/native...irds-a-z/weka/

Yes, Queenstown is busy and crowded, but it's great you still found it fun and festive. NZ Transportation is trying to alleviate congestion by widening surrounding roads, building new bypass roads and roundabouts to keep with booming development and tourism. I guess you didn't get a chance to drive to gorgeous (and much-quieter) Glenorchy, but it sounds like Mt. Nicholas Station offered up a similarly serene side of Lake Wakatipu.

I think most would agree the road through Haast Pass and along stunning Lakes Wanaka and Hawea is one of NZ's "top drives."

You saw a lot in Dunedin! Hogwartz is a great choice, near St. Joseph's Cathedral and Speight's Brewery. Otago Peninsula's Portobello Road can be "hairy" and occasionally furry:
https://www.odt.co.nz/news/dunedin/r...unbathing-seal
I've only visited Taiaroa Head's Little Blue in summer. I'd be interested in hearing how many penguins you saw. Did you enjoy it and did you see albatrosses as well?

Parking for the Jaffa race would have been a nightmare:
https://www.odt.co.nz/news/dunedin/t...ffa-race-video
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Old Dec 3rd, 2016, 04:23 AM
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Thanks for the links. I had my good memory and laugh for the day.

We didn't see any wekas. My husband is a bird lover, but I would have remembered those if we saw any.

I didn't pay much attention to the albatross since we have them in Louisiana. We counted about 30 penguins coming in and then I got too cold to stay out there any longer.

I forgot to mention that we met a very nice local lady who told us to stop at Moeraki Boulders. That was something very beautiful and different to see. One of my favorite photos of the trip was taken there. She also had very funny stories about the Jaffa race with toddlers shoving the dirty candy in their mouths.
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Old Dec 3rd, 2016, 04:54 AM
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Auckland

It is walk/bus/taxi time. No car here. Again, planning our days by the weather report.

Originally my DH wanted to drive from Queenstown to Auckland. I vetoed that plan when I read more about weather and driving and the ferry across the Cook Strait.

We were at the Shakespeare Hotel and Brewery in a tiny attic room, space heater and tube tv with 2 channels. Good price and good location since we were near the end and money was getting low. The restaurant on site came in very handy for the monsoon rain that came. So, really no complaint.

The first night there was a story on the news about an accident on the ferry due to the rough weather. There was a video of a refrigerated pork truck that went overboard. Everyone was warned not to eat the pork if it washed up onshore. One witness being interviewed said, "I went to the bathroom for a cheeky chunder, then there was a shaking, a bang, and a slam against the wall." with a big smile on his face. Gotta love these people. We started laughing and I thought how thrilled I was to have vetoed that ferry ride. I tried looking online for his interview, but no luck.
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Old Dec 3rd, 2016, 05:51 AM
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One Tree Hill. The lady at the information desk loves Bono as much as I do. So after climbing the hill and watching the documentary video, she played (explained too) the video/song for me and we both swooned. DH rolled his eyes. There are sheep on the hill they move around to keep the grass mowed. I am super impressed with how conscious and proactive they are about the environment.

Auckland War Memorial Museum. We took a private tour of the museum as we felt this was our only educational moment about the country and Maori people. Well worth it.

Used one gorgeous weather day for a ferry to Rangitoto Island and all day hike. I really enjoyed seeing lava rock and other little birds. Plenty of rainbows. The other island of Motutapu had cattle and very green grass. Looked like a desktop background.

Loved going to Elliott Stables. Great atmosphere and so many restaurant to choose from.

The rest of our time was walking around, watching the boats come and go on the wharf and buying souvenirs for the family.

We left the same day VP Joe Biden did, so got to see Air Force One from the window of the terminal.

Air New Zealand started a new route from Houston/Auckland that we took home to New Orleans. Not completely out of the question for a return trip. There is so much more to do in this beautiful country. Thanks for reading.
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Old Dec 5th, 2016, 10:38 PM
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Thanks for the info about how many penguins you saw. From time to time, travelers will ask about seeing penguins in Dunedin. If they're coming in winter, I can refer them to your post. Oh, yes, it gets cold and windy at Taiaroa Head, as it's right at the mouth of the harbour. I advise those interested in seeing the penguins there to dress warmly with a wind- and waterproof jacket—and to be patient, because it can take a while to see them swim ashore.

I didn't know you could see albatrosses in Louisiana, though I know it's great place for birdwatching. The albatross you would have seen at Taiaroa Head would have been a different species, the endangered Northern Royal Albatross, which unique to the Southern Hemisphere and only breeds in NZ. Many people travel to Dunedin just to see the albatross colony, which is the Southern Hemisphere's only mainland albatross colony. If interested, here's a link to a You Tube excerpt of David Attenborough's historic visit to the Taiaroa Head Royal Albatross Colony:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eC07etny02c

You made good use of your days in Auckland.
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