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New Zealand - here we come (again)

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New Zealand - here we come (again)

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Old Mar 1st, 2008, 06:25 PM
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New Zealand - here we come (again)

Hi fellow Fodorites -

We're off to the South Island of NZ in a few days - a place we can't seem to get enough of...

I've been wanting to spend some quality time in the Catlins; Bill has been hankering to explore the tracks in the Te Anau area, so we decided to concentrate on the south of the SI this time.

Here's our itinerary:

Arrive CHC mid morning, drive to Oamaru (about a 3.5 hour drive, all we want to tackle after a long overnight flight from Singapore)

Oamaru - one night

Drive from Oamaru to the Catlins via Dunedin and Balcutha - spend three nights near Fortrose

Drive from the Catlins to Te Anau - spend four nights

Drive Te Anau to Queenstown (actually staying near Lake Hayes/Arrowtown) - spend five nights

Drive Queenstown/Arrowtown to CHC - spend two nights

Fly CHC back to Singapore

Our plan is to do as much walking as our creaky old joints will allow and to eat Indian food and Tip Top ice cream at every opportunity. And let's not forget about the wine..

If anyone has any suggestions regarding walks, restaurants, wineries, or off-the-beaten path scenic areas, please share!
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Old Mar 2nd, 2008, 06:29 AM
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Hi mel -

Have a wonderful time, and we can be assured a great report when you return.
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Old Mar 2nd, 2008, 02:43 PM
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Te Anau is one of my favorite places in the South Island. I spent 6 days there last January. Some of the things I loved are:

an overnight trip to Milford Sound with Real Journeys;

a day trip to Doubtful Sound with Real Journeys;

Hiking two days on the Kepler Track as day trips -- the first day I did the third section (which is 90 percent flat and goes through the most gorgeous forest) to the hut and back, and the second day did the first section, up Mount Luxmore and back down again.

There's a tiny ice cream place across from the lake that has fabulous ice cream. I had blueberry.

Also in Te Anau is one of the most interesting cinemas I've ever been to. It is a movie theater that was specially built to show "Ata Whenua", a film made by a chopper pilot over several years about Fiordland. It's 30 minutes or so long, and it is so worth it. I regret to this day that I didn't buy a copy of the film to have at home here in New Jersey. There's a small bar/lounge attached to it. I went with a guy I met at my homestay and we stayed to have a drink after.

In Omaru is the very first botanical gardens made in New Zealand in the 1870s. I went there for an afternoon and it was lovely to lie under a weeping-willow tree and write in my journal. In the evening I went to see the little blue penguins come out of the water at the special little-blue-penguin place.

In Queenstown there's also a lovely botanical garden, right by the waterfront. There's a special memorial there to the South Pole explorers -- Robert Byrd I think it was -- right in the middle and some of the hugest roses I've ever seen. As big as grapefruit.

Have you thought about taking one more day in Christchurch and going for a day-trip to Akaroa? It's so different from everywhere else in Aotearoa because it was settled by the French. It still has a lovely French flavor -- and French pastries! I stayed there two nights, and bought my special pounamou necklace at a gallery on the main street, across the street and down a bit from the I-site. One morning I delivered the mail in the mail truck to all of the outlying ranches and villages. Very fun!

I'm sorry I can't help you with restaurants; I did the backpacker thing -- at 41 years old -- and carried most of my food around with me.

if you are interested, I've got a blog at travelpod dot com backslash hikrchick which is all about my 2 1/2-month adventure from Dec. 06 through February 07.

Hope this is helpful. I've not made it yet to the Catlins or to Stewart Island -- that's for the next time! I look forward to reading your trip report!
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Old Mar 2nd, 2008, 04:29 PM
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Thanks Jed.

Hikrchick -

Appreciate your suggestions. We've been fortunate enough to visit NZ several times, so we've done some of what you mention. I agree with you about Akaroa, we spent three nights there on one trip and mada a return visit last August when we discovered the hike to Laverick's Peak. I think Akaroa is often overlooked by visitors, so it's always good to see someone recommend it.

Hiking a portion of the Kepler Track is on my "to do" list too.

This is where I'm a bit confused - do you have to cross the lake to access the track to Mt Luxmore? If so, can this be done on the fly, or does it have to be arranged in advance?

Will have to check out the cinema in Te Anau - sounds interesting.

I look forward to reading your blog.
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Old Mar 2nd, 2008, 06:12 PM
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Yes, to get to the trailhead for Mount Luxmore you have to cross the lake. I seem to remember that I just walked up at the scheduled time the water taxi was going. Either I checked the day before for the schedule or the hostel/homestay I was at had the schedule, I don't remember. I paid onboard for a return ticket. The driver/pilot asked me what I was doing and when I thought I would be finished. i remember that he told me he'd be back for me at 4:30 p.m.; I made it down the mountain to the beach by 4 and he was just pulling up. He said he sometimes drives across the lake to hang out before the 4:30 ride back.

That was when I had the fabulous berry ice cream.

I have to tell you, though, that the Mt Luxmore hike is strenuous. Even I had some problems with it, and I'm a pretty strong hiker. It's very vertical through the forest, more than two hours walking on steep switchbacks, and then you get to the tree line, and then you cross a ridge to the Mount Luxmore hut and it's windy up there. Then you have to do it back down.

It was worth it -- though I broke a bone in the ball of my left foot under my big toe from the stress of pounding on the hard rock. After a year of being on and off crutches, I finally had surgery in January to take care of it. I'll never forget the Kepler Track -- and one day I'm going to go back to do it all over again, just to prove I can!

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Old Mar 2nd, 2008, 06:29 PM
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well mel i hope you have a wonderful trip. thanks for all the tips. i hope to let you know how it finally went for me.if i ever get my visa stamped in chile. janine
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Old Mar 2nd, 2008, 07:19 PM
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hikrchick -

Appreciate your comments as I'm completely unfamiliar with the Kepler.

I'd read that Mt Luxmore is an 8-10 hour return hike, so figured we'd maybe do just a section. I'm thinking the walk from the control gates to Brod Bay and back would be more suitable for a couple of old farts. We can play it by ear and see how it goes. Those views from the top of Mt Luxmore certainly sound inviting though.

I also have my eye on a walk from the control gates to Rainbow Reach/Shallow Bay, but I'm not clear if this is still part of the Kepler - would you happen to know?

Do I understand correctly that you hiked the Kepler as day hikes from both ends? Where is the other end?

I've also earmarked the walk from Pearl Harbour to the Back Valley Hut and return - I think it's part of the Garnock Burn Track, but I'm not sure.

So many walks, so little time!

Thank you Janine - good luck with your visa and I look forward to hearing all about your trip upon your return.


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Old Mar 4th, 2008, 12:59 PM
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Hi Melnq8 --

I had to pull out all my paperwork on the Kepler Track -- good think I kept everything.

I did Brod Bay to Luxmore Hut return in about 7 hours or so. But I'm used to walking in Manhattan and rushed. Control Gates to Brod Bay would be nice -- it would be flat.

To answer your question, I did indeed trek two sections of the Kepler Track as day-hikes from Te Anau. It is a circle that ends up back at the Control Gates. You're right -- Rainbow Reach and Shallow Bay are the other end of the Track.

As a woman traveling alone, I didn't feel comfortable sleeping out on the tracks in the Huts. I also didn't want to carry food and a sleeping bag. So all my tramps were day-hikes. I did the same thing at Abel Tasman -- got a water taxi halfway up, and then hiked back to the starting point.

It can take 3 or 4 days (depending on your stamina) to walk the entire circuit -- Control Gates to Mt. Luxmore/Luxmore Hut the first day, then on to Iris Burn Hut the second day, and then to Moturau Hut the third day, and then back to Control Gates the fourth day.

Here's some statistics, taken from "Tramping in New Zealand," published in November 2007 by Lonely Planet, pp 302-306:

Control Gates to Luxmore Hut: 5-6 hours, 13.8 km, 883 meter ascent

Luxmore Hut is at elevation of 1085 meters.
(note: the ascent is quite fast and steep -- the track climbs just about the entire way to Luxmore Hut in about 5 km)

Luxmore Hut to Iris Burn Hut: 5-6 hours, 14.6 km, 588m descent

Iris Burn Hut to Moturau Hut: 5-6 hours 16.2 km

Moturau Hut to Lake Te Anau Control Gates: 4 1/2 -5 hours, 15.5 km.

My first day of tramping I did the last section -- I got a shuttle bus to Rainbow Reach and walked to Moturau Hut and then back past Rainbow Reach to the Control Gates and around to the Lake. After 26 km, my legs started to feel tired so I hitched a ride with a guy in a truck.

The walk from Rainbow Reach to Shallow Bay was beautiful. Mostly Flat. Fully forested, with the big trees and the ferns and the moss. The whole works. It was gorgeous -- like something out of fairyland. Or Hobbit-land.

The second day of tramping I took the water taxi (called Kepler Water Taxi) across Brod Bay, then climbed up to Luxmore Hut and back down. That was about 20 km.

It was either at the I-site in Te Anau or at the DOC office down the road that I picked up a DOC flyer titled "Te Anau Walks: Day walks around the Te Anau area." It gave all the info for Kepler.

while hunting for this stuff I found some other things you might enjoy:

In Queenstown I had a very pleasant afternoon with some new friends at a wine store called Central Otago Wine Experience. It was crazy -- There were at least 100 wines, all from the area. You get a glass and can pour yourself set amounts from whatever bottle you want. You put a set amount on what looks like a little credit card and you stick that into the machine. Each "pour" is a different price. They also have nibbles. Very nice!
www.winetastes.com

Here's the website for Ata Whenua. I cannot recommend it highly enough: www.fiordlandcinema.co.nz.

I also have a brochure on the Queenstown Wine Trail -- www.queenstownwinetrail.com. It's a guided tour of the wineries in the area. I didn't do this.

Hope this is helpful.


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Old Mar 4th, 2008, 01:38 PM
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oops. LP Tramping book published in November 2006. Getting all my years mixed up...
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Old Mar 4th, 2008, 02:06 PM
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hikrchick -

Many thanks, especially for the info on the tracks. The way you describe the Kepler makes it sound too good to miss!

I'm thinking the walk to Brod Bay and return and the walk to Rainbow Reach/Shallow Bay sound right up my alley. Not sure my knees are up for the whole Mt Luxmore trek.

I'm familiar with Wine Tastes in QT. Found it on our last trip, but we'd already had our fill of wine for the day. I was just telling my other half that I wanted to re-visit it while in QT.

You've been very helpful - we'll be on our way in a few hours.

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Old Mar 5th, 2008, 05:28 AM
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We just returned from the South Island and did tons of hiking - all day hikes. Our hikes were typically 2 to 4 hours in length. We liked to have time left in the day to do other things (plus, as runners, we started nearly every morning with a 5 mile run, so we were getting our exercise!).

We tried to find "loops" so we wouldn't have to hike out and then hike right back on the same trail. One of our favorites was the Mount Chrichton Loop Trail just outide Queenstown (on the way to Glenorchy) - it is well marked from the highway. You will find on the right hand side of SH6a(from Queenstown) just past Wilson Bay. The hike is classified as "medium fitness" and took us about two hours. There is definitely some elevation on this hike - with some nice views. On the hike you will also come across Sam Summer's Hut - very quaint. Also, if two hours isn't enough for you, about 3/4 of the way around the loop (going clockwise), you can take the Lake Dispute Trail out to Lake Dispute - of course, you will have to double back to return to your car.

We found a Wakatipu Trails map when we were in Queentown that showed a couple dozen trails in the Queenstown and Arrowtown area. It was very helpful to find other short (for us) and long hikes.

We also hiked about two-hours of the Kepler Track, but it sounds like you are already sold on that one!

We weren't in any of the other areas you are heading, so can't help for those spots.

Have fun!
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Old Mar 5th, 2008, 06:20 AM
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You know, at the South end of the South Island, the ice cream of choice is Deep South! I think it's even better than Tip Top. So don't drive past the dairies that have the little rainbow out front.

Since you're staying near Lake Hayes, if you want a break from Indian food, Amisfield bistro (at the winery) has a great "chefs choice" offer on their menu, you can also order individual dishes.

Have fun.
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Old Mar 7th, 2008, 11:47 AM
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We just returned from a month on the south island with hiking and wine tasting as the focus. I used your helpful posts in planning our trip, so I hope I can help in return.

Out of Queenstown, one of our favorite hikes was the first section of the Routeburn. You pick up the trail head out of Glenorchy and hike up to the hut at Routeburn Falls. There were a few nice spots to get to the river for a picnic lunch and we had no sand flies on this trip until Punakaiki.

The DOC in Queenstown was very helpful in giving advice as to which hikes suited our plans.

Out of Wanaka, we only had time for the Diamond Lake Loop hike. It had incredible views, but some steep parts.

The highlight of our trip was the Milford Track. We did it the guided "posh" way. If you have the desire, you might see if you can get this booked. You can also do the first leg as a day trip by taking the ferry to the trailhead and hiking to the first DOC hut and back.

You can catch the opposite end of the Routeburn outside of Te Anau, but I have no direct knowledge of it as we passed it in the bus on the way back from the Milford Track.

Wineries we liked near Queenstown were Amisfield, Carrick and Mount Difficulty. We had a great lunch at Carrick.

Everytime we saw a TipTop ice cream venue I thought of your trip reports, but alas, it was never quite the right time for ice cream. Guess we need to head back for another month.
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Old Mar 10th, 2008, 03:44 PM
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Thanks all for the additional suggestions. We're currently in Invercargill, on our way to Te Anau from The Catlins. Had a great time there - got in lots of walks and had decent weather (if you consider four seasons in one day decent that is).

Haven't found any Deep South ice cream yet this trip, but I'm definitely on the prowl...

PJTravels - thanks for your tips. It's my understanding that the Milford Track can only be walked in one direction and must be booked in advance, but I'll definitely look into your suggestions.

Apparently my stomach doesn't have a clock, as anytime is a good time for ice cream! Hope you enjoyed your trip.
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Old Mar 10th, 2008, 06:28 PM
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They make it right there in Invercargill! You have to find their Hokey Pokey.

Here's their website with a photo of their package

http://www.deepsouthnz.co.nz/

Look for a little rainbow sign outside the dairies, or you should be able to find it in the supermarkets.

I'm jealous!
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Old Mar 13th, 2008, 11:07 PM
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mlgb -

Found some Deep South ice cream about an hour after I posted - yummy! Had the creamy cookie and the neopolitian - very good - think I like it better than Tip Top.

Walked 19 km of the Milford Track today as a day hike - YES - it can be done! Took a boat 42 km to the start of the track, then freedom walked from there. We've had three days of fabulous weather here in Te Anau - first time we've seen the place without rain. We head to QT/Arrowtown tomorrow for five nights.

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