Need help with New Zealand South Island Itinerary.

I will comment on your route from Punakaiki to Kaikoura on your other thread, Gills. My views on what you might see and do on the rest of your itinerary would be from the perspective of someone who lives here, and I have seen that this perspective is often different from that of visitors from overseas. Moving this to the top might attract some suggestions for you.
Rob.

Thanks Rob. I just want to make sure our driving times allow us to dawdle and see stuff along the drives. I am open to ANY suggestions on what to see.

Rachel

After seeing Milford I would head back to Queenstown, you could hike the Key or go up to Glenorchy and hike the lower end of the Routeburn.

Then on to the glaciers. You might add the extra day there too.

Depending on what month you are there Munro's Beach has rare penguins, and there are a number of other nice hikes between Wanaka and the glaciers.

mlgb - Are you saying we should stay in Queenstown for the night and not in Wanaka? We are going in Dec. My husband thought parasailing may be fun and adventurous (something we are usually not). Where is Munro's beach near?

Rachel

I agree that your night might be better spent in Queenstown rather than Wanaka.

Unfortunately, with the time that you have available, I don't think that you should even consider trying to get up to Abel Tasman. Your days are going to be full already (I note your desire to dawdle), and that would be way too much to attempt.

Hi Gills -

Just a suggestion for your unplanned day in the Milford/Te Anau area...you might consider taking the boat from Te Anau Downs to the start of the Milford Track - the boat leaves around 10:30 am, takes about an hour and deposits you at Glade Wharf, the start of the Milford track. You can take a guided walk or freedom walk for a few hours, then catch the boat back. It's an excellent way to spend a day.

Hi Gills From the DOC website

Munro Beach is near Lake Moeraki on the Haast highway. You can get information at the Haast visitor center on your way from Wanaka or Queenstown to the Glaciers. You will need insect repellent the sandflies are fierce!

The best time of year to see tawaki is during the breeding season from about August to early December. I was lucky but if you do plan on doing the walk ask about the best times for seeing them. I just happened to arrive as one swam up on the beach and waddled over to his/her nest.

I don't agree with Mel, about the start of the Milford Track..I don't think it's the best use of time! Most of it is the round trip boat ride and the scenery will not be much different than you've already seen. The early part of the track to the Glade House is nothing special. (Sorry Mel)

Another hike that is worthwhile (in the mornings is best before wind picks up) is Lake Matheson at the glaciers.

Hi Gills,I do recomend a coach trip from Te Anau to milford sound,i know it is more expence but the information that the coach driver gives outis quite good,we went with Great sights,but do not be tempted with the return flight back,he told us it was a 1 hour trip but lasted just 20 mins.

Different strokes I guess mlgb, but I thought it was a great way to spend a day. The boat takes an hour each way, as it's 42 km to Glade Wharf. We freedom walked and had time enough to walk an hour past Clinton Hut before we turned around covering 18.5 kms of the track (round trip, about 4.5 hours). the guided walk only goes as far as Clinton Hut, but includes quite a bit of commentary and moves at a much slower pace.

There were very few people on the track that time of day as the overnight walkers turn up on the later boat since they spend their first night at Clinton Hut.

It's not cheap though, the boat was $95 each round trip, but very much worth it for those wanting a taste of the Milford Track.

My thought was that they already had a bit of hiking around Milford planned on Dec 4.

Since this is their first trip and not the 5th or 6th like some of us, I would recommend something with a bit of variety rather than more of the same just to fill time.

I see your point mlgb, but I hardly consider walking a section of the Milford Track as just filling time. Gills, please note that my response above was directed to the following:

Dec. 5 - More Fiordland - suggestions please

If you're after more hikes in the area Gills, you might want to consider the hike to Key Summit, mentioned above by mlgb, a gorgeous section of the Routeburn Track. The views over the Humboldt and Darran Mountains from Key Summit are positively stunning and will definitely give you a different perspective of the area. The walk begins at The Divide, located between Milford Sound and Te Anau, so you'll need to plan a bit.

You might also consider walking a portion of the Kepler Track - the portion to Rainbow Reach is easy and begins at the Te Anau Control Gates. It's pretty, but pales in comparison to Key Summit IMO.

Then there's Lake Manapouri, lots to do around there as well:

http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~bobm/manapouri/Page-2.html

I think you'll find yourself wishing you had more time in NZ...I always do. Good luck with your planning.

You have already signalled the possibility that you may get back to NZ at some time in the future, Gills, and I hope that this will be the case. With this in mind, don't try to cram so much into this trip that you don't have time to enjoy what you will find on offer here. NZ is a great place in which to relax and not have to speed through a very full itinerary. Being able to take the time to walk in our native bush and hear and smell what is around you is definitely part of the attraction.

I have been in similar situations myself (but at a more advanced age!) and have found that I have decided too early that I might get only one shot at travel in a particular region and have, therefore, tried to do too much.

You and you husband have plenty of time ahead of you to get back down here, with or without children or other family, and do Abel Tasman, drink some wine, do the North Island, etc. As you have said, you want to dawdle. Stick with that approach.

Jeez! I'm now sounding really old and avuncular!

Rob.

Thanks for replying!!!

Melnq8 & Swintonian - I don't think we'll do the Milford track mainly because of the cost. $95 pp is high for us so we're going to try and stretch our money for different activities. I thought (and maybe I'm completely off base on this) that our hiking activity would be our cost free activity for this vacation.

mlgb - Thanks for the advice on Munro Beach. It sounds like a fun place to stop and visit. It's on my itinerary. And yes...in regards to the Fiordland area we do want variety!

Melnq8 - Key summit sounds great. How long did it take you to complete it? 3 hours or so?

Kiwi_Rob - I don't want to rush. Thanks for the encouragement. I know I'm going to come away from this trip with no regrets so I shouldn't be stressing on what I won't get to see and I should be focusing on what I WILL get to see.

Now for more questions!!!
1. Whale watching in Kaikoura is pricey! I had no idea it would cost so much. I think I may scrap this activity unless some of you can HIGHLY recommend it and can change my mind. If we do not to whale watching in Kaikoura, is it still a city we should stop in or should we see someplace else that is a hidden gem?

2. I think the Hanmer springs pools seem relaxing! I know they seem touristy as well, but seeing as how they are towards the end of our NZ stay it may be nice to get a back massage and soak in the pools after all our countless hours of driving. Any objections to this? We wouldn't do an overnighter...just an afternoon or evening.

3. We will be in NZ from Dec. 2 - Dec. 11. Do we need to book hostels in advance? My friend said he didn't book anything in advance (he visited in Sept 2006) and he didn't have a problem finding lodging at all. I am more of a planner though and want to make sure we have a place to stay. This limits our "freedom" however.

4. Other planned activities I am toying with: Skyline Gondola and Luge in Queenstown, Parasailing in Queenstown, Glow worm caves in Te Anau (not sure about this one - read some iffy reviews), and Kayaking in Milford. Suggestions? Opinions? Companies to go through?

You guys are so helpful! I hope I can be as helpful to other fodorites as you have been to me.

Rachel

I liked the glow worm caves in Te Anau. I like to experience nature, outdoors, and unique features of the places I visit. I was traveling on my own and spent a couple of nights in Te Anau to see the caves and the Sound. The experience of riding on the boats with the glowing worms hanging above was truly unique. The caves were wet and relatively undeveloped compared to other cave tours I have been on. The boat ride back on a clear night looking at the stars was a great finish.

The only down side was the group of tourists who stampeded to be the first off the boat so they could get on the tour first. I think people had to be divided into two groups with one entering the cave first and the other walking around, gift shop etc., then switch places if I remember right. Both groups got the same tour and amount of time in the cave.

Gills -

Hiking IS a good cost free option, without a doubt. Getting to the Milford Track is an exception, as it's only accessible by boat. I can certainly understand your reluctance, given the expense. Fear not, there are many, many other cost free track options though.

Regarding the hike to Key Summit on the Routeburn - it took us five hours to hike 13 km - we walked further than just Key Summit though - we walked as far as the Lake Howden Campground before turning back.

Kaikoura is pretty much all about whale watching (and seal spotting along the coast). It's a very small seaside town, and we've never found a reason to stay there for long, but others seem to enjoy it. However, I would like to explore the walking tracks in the area some time, so you could certainly do some walking if you do decide to stay. I'll post a link to some hikes shortly.

Likewise, Hanmer Springs is all about the thermal pools. We've stayed there for as long as three nights, but honestly, it's not a place on the to do list of many tourists. It's more of a weekend getaway place for residents of Christchurch. The hot springs are a good way to spend an afternoon though, if that appeals to you. The town is tiny, and not as touristy as you might think, and it's about a 90 minute drive from Christchurch.

If you need details on hikes, click on my name and look under my trip reports - I have several detailed trip reports posted here on Fodor's from my numerous visits to the South Island with lots of hike info.

You'll also find the following site a fantastic resource for planning your outdoor pursuits:

http://www.doc.govt.nz/

PS -

December is much busier than September, so keep this in mind when you decide whether or not to book your accommodation. Small, popular villages and attractions do get rather full, so if you've got your heart set on a place such as Mt Cook, Milford Sound (only one lodging option in Milford that I'm aware of) or Fox Glacier, you might want to play it safe. If you want to wing it somewhat, you might consider picking up an accommodation guide and making reservations as you go, booking the morning of your anticipated arrival instead of turning up at night and hoping to find something.

NZ school holidays don't begin until about Dec 18, so no worries there.

Lake Tekapo & the drive there is beautiful too, I think we did it & stopped on the way to Punakaiki,research it its very nice & you will also get to see a small village there.Only one hotel there called Lake Tekapo Inn or something.

Thanks drsaloni and melnq8.

Maybe we'll stay the night in Hanmer springs instead of Kaikoura. I also think I'm going to try and book hostels ahead of time. I don't think I'll mind sticking to an itinerary...as long as I can figure it out soon!! Unfortunately, Lake Tekapo is not on our route. It sure does look beautiful though!

Rachel

Kaikoura has a nice short walk that takes you along the coast and up to a viewpoint and via some historic buildings.

I think the scenery is much nicer than Hanmer Springs.

Sorry to confuse you even more, we had driven to Kaikoura, done the whaling excursion, which I loved at the time but now after seeing the whales in Provincetown & around here in the US , it was ok.The seafood at Kaikoura was great.We then drove off & went to Hanmer Springs & stayed one night.The only reason I think you would stay there is if u are going to the springs over there as after soaking, relaxing you dont want to pack up & drive.The springs were open till 7 I think so we just soaked, dried off, went to the hotel, ate & slept & even though much to my husbands dismay I had packed the trip to do everything, this turned out to be relaxing & a good break instead of the usual driving.So only if u are going to the springs then stay one night there.

I know this is lengthy, but here is our new revised itinerary. Any comments would be greatly appreciated. Are we rushing anywhere? Should we slow down and take out some activities to spend time in certain areas?

Dec. 2 - Arrive in Queenstown at noon
- Sky gondola/luge
Dec. 3 - Drive to Te Anau Downs
- Water Cycles in Te Anau - are they still there?
- Drive to the Divide and hike to Key Summit
- Drive back to and sleep in Te Anau Downs
Dec. 4 - Milford Sound
- Hike - maybe Tutoko or someone else's suggestion??
- Any freedom kayaking around here? Don't want a tour
Dec. 5 - Milford Sound
- Cruise mid morning with under water observatory
- Hike (short one - suggestions?)
Dec. 6 - Drive to Queenstown
- Parasailing (afternoon)
- Drive to and sleep in Lake Hawea (to make tomorrow
a shorter drive)
Dec. 7 Drive to Blue Pools
- Drive to Lake Moeraki and to Munro Beach
- Drive to Fox Glacier and Franz Josef for short
visit
- Drive to and sleep in Hokitika
*Does anyone know if Blue Spur Lodge still has
gold panning?
Dec. 8 - Drive to Pancake Rocks and Blow Holes
- Drive to Abel Tasman
- Hike and Kayak
OR
- Drive to Hanmer Springs
- Soak in the pools, get a massage
Dec. 9 (if we did Abel Tasman than Dec. 9 would be Hanmer Springs and we would cut out Kaikoura altogether.)
- Drive to Kaikoura
- Whale Watching (is it worth the price? Drsaloni
says no)
Dec. 10 - Drive to Akoroa
- Picnic lunch
- Other suggestions?
Dec. 11 - Drive to Christchurch
- Botanical gardens
- See Cathedral
- Leave from Christchuch airport at 4:30

So the big question is Abel Tasman for a day or Kaikoura for a day??? Thanks everyone!

Rachel

I'm not sure what kind of guidebook or info you are working on for Milford Sound. The Milford Track is highly regulated and you can either go with a guide company or via permits issued by the DOC. I think that is going to include kayaking as well.

Mt. Tutoko is a multiday expedition with expert guides, as far as I know.

Suggest you look thru these online guides from the Fiordland tourism agency and the DOC.

http://www.doc.govt.nz/upload/documents/parks-and-recreation/tracks-and-walks/southland/fiordland-day-walks.pdf

There are other areas of Fiordland with the same type of temperate podocarp forest, just not with all the PR of the Milford Track.

A nice alternative is the Tuatapere Hump Ridge.

http://www.humpridgetrack.co.nz/

A few comments and questions Gills -

The only accommodation option I'm aware of at Te Anau Downs is Fiordland National Park Lodge. I'm assuming you've already booked?

Are you staying overnight in Milford on Dec 4 & 5? I assume you've booked? Busy place, limited lodging.

Regarding Dec 6 -

The drive from Milford to Queenstonwn is four hours, then you've got close to another two hour drive to Lake Hawea. This doesn't give much time for parasailing, but the long summer days will be in your favor.... Have you booked a place in Lake Hawea? I looked there several years back and had a hard time finding a place. For purely selfish reasons I'd be interested to know what you found.

Dec 7 - I suspect you realize this is a long drive day, probably 5-6 hours without stops. The walk to Munro Beach takes a little over an hour return. You're going at prime penguin viewing time - lucky you.

Dec 8 - You're looking at 5+ hours to drive from Hokitika to Abel Tasman, not inlcluding the stop at Pancake Rocks, which will add at least another hour. This won't leave much time to hike in Abel Tasman, particularly as you need to arrange a water taxi to collect you from the track unless you just plan to hike in a bit from Marahau, turn around and hike back out. Same for kayaking.

The Hanmer Springs option is more doable, as the drive from Hoki to Hanmer is only 3:40, BUT you'll miss out on Pancake Rocks, unless you detour to Punakaiki and backtrack to pick up Lewis Pass to Hanmer, or continue traveling north and cross over near Westport.

Dec 9 - The drive from Abel Tasman to Kaikoura is just over four hours, so you'll need to plan well to fit in a whale trip. I can't comment on if it's worth the price, I've not done it. Are you spending this night in Kaikoura?

Dec 10 - Are you spending this night in Akaroa?

Your itinerary strikes me as hectic, but if your goal is to see a little snippet of many places on the SI and you don't mind all the driving, it might work for you.

VERY helpful! Thanks for the input to both of you. I'll respond more tomorrow. Off to bed for the night....

Rachel

mlgb - You're right. Tutoko is not for us. How about Lake Marian? I like the look of Tuatapere Hump Ridge, but can we do just a day walk or do you have to do the entire loop?

Melnq8 - Lots of great info...thanks! We are definitely going to cut out Abel Tasman. It's just too far out of the way. I'm actually thinking of cutting out Kaikoura too. I don't want to feel UNrelaxed at the end of our 10 days plus I'm not 100% sold on the whale watching. No one has said it's a must. Maybe we'll just stay an extra day in the Lake Hawea/Wanaka region and relax by the lakes. I have not booked anything yet, so I need to get on the ball! Fiordland National Park Lodge's website says they have room available as well as Milford Sound lodge (backpackers). I found the Lake Hawea Motor Inn and they too have space available in their backpackers for only $25 a night.

Motor Inn's website: http://www.lakehawea.co.nz/home.html

Again, thanks for critiquing our "hectic" itinerary. We don't mind the road trip vibe, but we don't want to feel rushed either so I think taking a day after parasailing to just hang by the lakes will be nice.

Thanks for the link Rachel