Milford Track 4 day hike

Hi Shera -

I've only walked a portion of the Milford Track as a day hike, so can't help with most of your questions, however, I might be able to help a tiny bit -

The Milford is walked in one direction only (unless you're on the day hike) and the track is accessed via boat from Te Anau Downs.

Yes, you must carry your provisions with you if you plan to walk unguided - there's also a booking system for the huts and spots fill up fast as there are only so many beds available.

There's also a "posh" guided walk - trampers on this excursion only carry day packs - their packs are transported for them, and they spend their nights in private lodging with better services.

Here's a link to the DOC to help get you started:

http://www.doc.govt.nz/templates/trackandwalk.aspx?id=36688

Perhaps Alf will chime in - as I recall he and his family walked the entire track.

Forgot to mention that the huts are communal - I've seen a few of them -they have bunk beds, a communal kitchen, etc.

Here's some detailed info on the huts on the Milford Track:

http://www.doc.govt.nz/templates/CustomSummary.aspx?id=36697

Thanks. That's very helpful.

More questions for those who have done the full hike ... Since the huts don't have showers I'd like to know if it's possible to wash up in a stream or other water nearby. Any other tips about staying in the huts, carrying your food, etc?

The guided hikers have to carry their own packs also. However since food is provided, they only have to carry their lunches for the day along with their clothes for the 4 days, a sleeping sheet and a towel. (There is NO transport service for packs. The last night on the guided hike is spent at the lodge on Milford Sound and you can have a small bag delivered.)

The main differences between guided and independent hikers are meals are provided (and a bar aka refrigerator with beer and wine for sale), huts have hot water and electricity until about 10pm when the generator is cut off for the night, bunkrooms are smaller and there are a limited number of private rooms with ensuite baths. Everyone experiences the same trail conditions, weather and sandflies. It's just that at the end of the day, guided hikers get hot showers and don't have to cook their own meals.

Ultimate Hikes is the only operator for the guided hikes on the Milford. Check out their website (http://www.ultimatehikes.co.nz/) and click on the "virtual walk" to see the track though their pictures always seem to be taken on sunny days.

Independent huts have flush toilets and cold showers. Independent hikers also have to bring all of their own food supplies and cooking and eating utensils (huts have gas burners) and sleeping bags.

SherG - We are strong hikers but decided to do the guided hike instead of going it alone to simplify logistics. Yes it is more costly but it is not "posh" unless having hot water is considered that but we cut costs elsewhere. We would do it again in a heartbeat.

I did the guided hike about 8 years ago before there were hot showers, so my info is a bit dated.

If you haven't done backpacking I would go with the guided hike if you can afford it.

You will be carrying a day pack with lunch and snacks for the day (and a change of clothing I think). If you're backpacking you'll be carrying a lot more weight although a tent isn't required.

The trail is generally easy to follow (if it isn't under water). Conditions when I hiked it include some sections that have exposed roots and slippery rocks (at least as of 8 years ago). There is some mud (but not as bad as many other tracks). Chances are you will be hiking through water and have wet feet most of the time. (You soon learn that it takes too much effort to walk around the puddles). After you cross the pass there is a section with an exposed drop if you're nervous about heights. You need real hiking boots with nonslip soles and at least one hiking pole. The long downhill after crossing the pass is the most taxing section.

The hike has three very long days (days 2-4). The weather in November is iffy...could be very rainy and snow would be possible. That is quite early in the season.

If you have clear weather at the pass it's quite worth all of the slogging in wet feet and the sandflies. The overnight stay at Milford Sound is the big payoff.

Correction...we did have hot showers. I was thinking of the Hump Ridge hike which I did before they added hot showers. That's another nice multi day hike (they did have a pack heli-transport service).

The other thing I recall is that the Milford guided huts had drying rooms for clothing. No need to bring 4 days worth of clothing, just a very good waterproof layer.

If you are having reservations about doing the Milford Track, another guided walk you might want to look into is the Hollyford Track. We chose to do this hike a few years ago because of the varied terrain (mountains to the sea) and because it sounded like a do-able trip for our family of hikers (who are not backpackers.)
It's a 3-day hike with the first day being the longest. You stay each night in a twin-bedded room with hot showers and all meals. The company will provide (at no extra cost) the backpacks,liners and rain gear if you don't want to bring your own or don't have gear of your own. You only have carry this gear for the first day. (On the second day, the boat which carries you across the lake to the trail takes your pack to the second lodge and on the 3rd day, you do a day hike at the beach.) At the end of the 3rd day you are flown from the lodge to Milford Sound where you can take a cruise of the sound if you like before heading back to Te Anau.
We did the hike in January and had beautiful weather--don't know what it would be like in November. You can check their website for all the details.

Sorry about the misinformation on the backpack transport - we had a long discussion with the boat operators on our ride from Te Anau Downs to the start of the Milford Track this past March and they left me with the impression packs were transported on the guided hike.

Not to split hairs, but these same Kiwis told us about the "posh" huts (their description exactly), but we only actually saw Glade House, which looked pretty posh compared to the communal huts we saw. It's all relative I guess.

We did the guided hike a few years ago and I would definitely recommend it (if you have time & money).

Although I wouldn't ordinarily call the accomodations "posh", they were comfortable and under the circumstances, the ability to come off the trail, put your clothes in a drying room (really important on wet days!), have a hot shower, and sit down to dinner prepared by someone else with a glass of NZ wine sure felt luxurious.

In general you have to carry all of your stuff (except food) but (although I would not count on it and it may not be advertised) there was also an option to pay to have your pack transported by copter from the final hut on the trail to the lodge at Milford sound.

The hike distances are a little uneven, based on where the huts are, and as I recall there is one decent climb and one long day, but if you enjoy hiking I expect you'd have a wonderful time.

I don't think you can predict what the weather will be; you just have to book and go. We went in early November last year (discount for early season) and were prepared for wet days and possibly being helicoptered over the pass if it was still snow covered. We had 4 spectacular hiking days (no rain) and just a few snow banks on the trail near the pass. We did have to take the "detour" down from the pass which was much steeper since the normal track was still in an avalanche zone.

A friend went at the end of November several years ago and they had to be helicoptered over the pass. If you go with the guided group, if a helicopter is necessary it is free; for the independent hikers they have to pay for it (not sure if you can backtrack.) That should be a consideration if you're thinking of going as an independent hiker in early or late season.

The guided group on the Milford Track was not full for our departure and I gathered that was typical for early season. It consisted of a handful of Americans and except for one Japanese girl the rest of the group was split between Brits and Aussies. (I understand that normally there are more Japanese hikers.)

At the bottom of this URL http://besthike.com/australasia/new_zealand/Milford.html is a compilation of Milford Track trip reports most of them from independent hikers with descriptions of the track, huts and logistics. Also try posting your questions on the Thorntree forum.

If you’re into books, I’d highly recommend “New Boots in New Zealand” by Gillian Orrell. The author hiked (or in one case canoed) all of the New Zealand Great Walks as a single female and describes the tracks, history and the people and huts on the tracks. Very informative and readable.

I did the independent (unguided) walk a few years ago with my wife.

Its classified by DOCs as an easy tramping track, which is :
Moderate day or multi-day tramping/hiking
Track is generally well formed, may be steep, rough or muddy
Suitable for people with moderate fitness. Limited backcountry (remote areas) experience required
Track has signs, poles or markers. Major stream and rivers crossings are bridged
Light tramping/hiking boots required

Yes you have to carry your own sleeping bag, pans, food and clothes but I reckon with careful planning we were both carrying under 10KGs each (22 pounds).
The huts are fine, well maintained and you are guaranteed a bunk each night thanks to the permit system

As for the walking itself, your enjoyment will be inversely proportional to the amount of rain , but here's a link to the DOCs site day by day description
http://www.doc.govt.nz/templates/page.aspx?id=36694

We did the walk with a group of ladies in their 50s and 60s from Dunedin who were in a tramping club, and had no problems

Good luck if you choose to do the walk whichever way you want

Mike

Mike..don't dare underestimate the fitness of 50-60 year old ladies from Dunedin!!

When I did the guided walk by far the largest proportion was two hiking clubs from Japan. There were a handful each of Americans, Brits, Aussies, Germans and one lone Kiwi whose mates had bailed on him at the last minute. I think the only person who had an difficulty were a 50-ish American who was dragged along by a spouse and had almost no hiking experience. She pulled a hip muscle and they helicoptered her out the last day.

Mike..don't dare underestimate the fitness of 50-60 year old ladies from Dunedin!!

When I did the guided walk by far the largest proportion was two hiking clubs from Japan. There were a handful each of Americans, Brits, Aussies, Germans and one lone Kiwi whose mates had bailed on him at the last minute. I think the only person who had difficulty was a 50-ish American who was dragged along by a spouse and had almost no hiking experience. She pulled a hip muscle and they helicoptered her out the last day.