shortdesertguy

Hello - We will be visiting in Australia for 17 days in July - flying into Melbourne and out of Sydney. We do plan on also getting up to Cairns for several days, probably renting a motorhome in the area and exploring that area. But we're uncertain about whether to go to Ayers or take the Great Ocean Hwy from Melbourne to Adelaide.

Background info - we live in Palm Springs, California - the desert. It's summer here and getting hotter by the day.

Our question: Will we be underwhelmed with Ayers because we come from a desert area? We have already seen Sedona in Arizona. It sounds similar to Ayers Rock (lots of red dirt and sceneary). Would we be happier driving from Melbourne to Adelaide (even in the winter but blessedly cool for us) and flying to Cairns? Or is Ayers a "must".

Thank you all for your suggestions, much appreciated!

Susan7

I haven't been to Palm Springs so I can't help you with a comparison, but Uluru (Ayers Rock) is stunning. It's one of my favourite places in Australia.

Just an aside, since the rock was given back to the traditional owners in 1975 it's known as Uluru. It is a sacred site for the local Anangu people and there are amazing stories elaborated from the very varied sections of the rock. The rock really comes alive like a huge canvas when you hear these stories.

The downside of visiting Uluru is that the accommodation and restaurants are overpriced. The camp site, people report, is more reasonable.

longhorn55

I've been to Uluru twice and I can't see how anyone would be "underwhelmed" by it, but having said that, it's not a place that everyone needs to go. I don't think it's a "must see" in Australia because there is a LOT of other cool stuff in Australia.

Due to its remote location and expensive prices for everything, I don't recommend Uluru as a destination for anyone unless they feel that they absolutely want to go there. It's not the kind of place you should go just to "tick off" a box on your list. If you think you'd prefer the GOR, then go there--it is also a great destination.

shortdesertguy

I think my thinking is: if you lived at the beach - would you be "underwhelmed" with the Great Ocean Rd? My question is the opposite - we live in the desert and have seen Sedona, AZ - a cousin to Uluru in many ways.

We're not rich...just want to spend our budget in the way that will be most satisfying and rewarding. I see the value in both areas...just need to choose one. Help please!

peterSale

Ayers Rock is a very large rock rising out of a virtually flat plain so is quite stunning in its own right. But once you are up close it looks much like any other red rock you have seen in the desert.

The top of the rock is brilliant. I spent 5 hours wandering around the top. But it is still a big red rock (actually it is a big grey rock. Only the outer thin layer is red, but you only see the grey and the other colours at the top.)

People on this site will bleat that you shouldn't climb it. If you go, make your own mind up. If you would climb a similar thing at home - climb Ayers Rock. If you would not do it at home, then don't do it here. Simple. Don't get caught up in the petty antics of political correctness.

If you love rocks - it is great.
If you love Aboriginal culture - it is great (so I'm told).

I went purely for the rocks. I'm not interested in primitive cultures and their fairy tales. I'm not interested in any culture and their fairy tales, for that matter. But that's me. I travel for natural features only. Cultural things is what you do when it is too dark to do anything else or when the weather is really, really foul.

Sorry to digress...
If you don't like rocks or Aboriginal culture go to the Great Ocean Road. As much I love it, I would only go to Ayers Rock if you have always had a burning desire to go.

The effort and cost to get there may not worth it to you.

The Great Ocean Road, particularly around the 12 apostles at Port Campbell, is truly stunning and unlike any other coastline I have been to (remember I travel for rocks). The limestone colour for a start is quite unique.

July will be great as you will get the winter Antarctic storm waves coming up from the south and crashing on the cliffs. I have been there when the waves have reached the top of the cliffs. WOW! especially on a sunny day with big waves. Double Wow!

The rest is much like anywhere else, just that there is nothing between the road and the sea for some of it.

I would recommend stopping at Melba Gully at night and seeing the glow worms if you have not seen glow worms before. It is not far from Port Campbell.

It will be cold - about 15C. But it is not too pleasant in summer with hot northerlies either.

Once you get to Warrnambool there is not much really, you will have seen most types of coast. If you are into bird watching then go further and visit the Coorong. If not loop north and come back to Melbourne via the volcanic western plains and Ballarat. Lots of extinct volcanic cones and lakes, again birdlife and some wineries etc. Ballarat for the Gold rush history and back to Melbourne. Can be done in 3-4 days but a week would be better.

If you are hiring a campervan remember that you do not have to stay in commercial caravan parks. There are plenty of free and cheap places. Get a copy of Camps Australia Wide. Number 7 is the latest. It will cost you about $50 (cheaper if you get a 2nd hand copy). It will show where you can camp free. $50 is about 2 nights in a caravan park. We have no. 5 and it is still pretty accurate.

Enjoy.

MissGreen

As an Aussie who has done the Great Ocean Road but not Uluru... I'd do Uluru. GOR wasn't that amazing.

KayF

I have seen both and am finding it hard to recommend one over the other. Probably GOR would win because of the coastal views. It depends on you though - Ayers Rock is a long way from Alice Springs so it would mean a fair bit of travel. It's all going to be desert scenery, red earth, Aboriginal culture, can be pricey because of the distances involved. Quite apart from the Aboriginals not wanting tourists to climb the rock, a lot of people have died climbing it. I don't like heights and enjoyed walking around it.

Great Ocean Road is blue seas, white sands, winding roads, rock formations, some history from shipwrecks and survivors stories, nice small towns etc. If you do travel on this road, be careful, in sections it's only one lane in each direction and you will be driving on the 'other side of the road'.

Which one does your gut feel you would like more?

Kay

dottyp

Hi, shortdesertguy,

Having read all the above, and your second post, I would suggest you travel the Great Ocean Road. I confess to not having done this trip but know many people who have, and some more than once. All have said it is worth doing, and it is on my list of places to go. The variety of sights, and the opportunity to see animals in the wild are factors to consider.

On the other hand, I have been to Uluru, loved the experience, and would love to revisit. However, it is expensive - just stayng in one of the cheaper accommodations was $NZ1050 for 2 nights for my DH and I. I particularly liked the structure of Kata Tjuta although both had many interesting faces, as my many photos verify.

Susan7

And just to add the other side to the debate about climbing Uluru so that you can make your decision. The traditional Aboriginal owners ask you not to climb up the rock which to them is a sacred site. If it matters to you to behave respectfully towards the wishes of the owners of the Rock, Australia's first peoples, then you may decide not to climb it.

Songdoc

I have not been to Uluru. I'd like to go, but it doesn't appeal to me enough to make such a long, expensive trip just to see that one sight. So I can't comment about it. However, I liked the GOR enough to do it on two separate trips--the most recent being last week.

I've driven the California Coast from LA to SF several times. It's not like that. The rock formations in the area of the 12 Apostles; the Gibson Steps; the Arch; the London Bridge; the Grotto; are stunning. The rest of the drive is pretty--but that area is "WOW."

We took a slight detour off the GOR to visit the Otway Lighthouse because I'd read on this forum that it's a good place to spot koalas. We saw dozens of them and were enthralled. We loved our trip. (I'll soon post a report.) We continued up through the Grampians: GORGEOUS, and teeming with kangaroos and wallabies, then ended back in Melbourne.

I know your time is limited, but we also LOVED a day trip from Melbourne to see the penguins at Phillip Island. I'm guessing you'll enjoy whatever you decide to see.

Far North Queensland (we stayed at the Thala Beach Lodge near Port Douglas and it was FABULOUS) was fantastic. Very different from the other parts of Australia we've seen--and probably my favorite area. You just need more time!! ;-)

shortdesertguy

After a long deliberation and talks about budget we've reached decision to go to Uluru! It would be a shame to miss it. Now the excitement for the trip is starting to sink in! We've also confirmed a motorhome from Cairns to Brisbane.

peterSale

If you want to climb Ayers Rock, be sure to get there early ie as soon as the park opens, before they decide whether they will close the climb. This is done for "official safety reasons" but in reality it is done on a whim to ban the climb without actually banning it.

The aim is to have the climb completely banned within 10 years.

From Cairns to Brisbane stop at Tin Can bay and feed the dolphins.

At least a day trip on Fraser Island is really worth doing as well.

mareeS55

shortdesertguy,

I hope you don't regret Uluru. If I had only 17 days, I'd take a flight over it at sunrise on my way to somewhere else.

Uluru has this whole unfortunate mythical/indigenous thing that you have to buy into. It turned me off, and we have never been back. There are many whacko religious and green people who go there for a "deep" experience of the indigenous kind, all playing didgeridoos and beating sticks. You will see the fakeness if you go there.

If you are intending to drive a camper from Cairns to Brisbane, be very careful. It's a long lonely distance of 1700km, and most of the Bruce Hwy is only two-lane. Many people die in head-on collisions, especially those who are from countries that drive on the RIGHT-HAND side of the road in a LEFT-HAND driving country. Cairn

Between Townsville Mackay and Rockhampton, the road is a lonely stretch. Do not (DO NOT!!) free-camp or stop for hitch-hikers or men flagging down after dark. My sister and her husband used to drive that stretch of road regularly on their business deliveries when living in those parts and say there are missing people still unaccounted for. It's quite creepy to drive through, even during the day.

It's not only crocs and snakes and sharks to beware of.

threedogs

Agree with above. Was at Ayers Rock two weeks ago. If you are not interested in Aboriginal beliefs then you are on your own. They provide no geological or ecological information on the park. The rock is stunning but once you have seen it, had a walk around it and the Olgas for a couple of hours I was ready to move on...

Kwaussie

I'm Australian and I live near the GOR so it's a bit blasé to me. I haven't been to Uluru although it is definitely on my bucket list but I have been to Sedona. OMG, WOW & anything other exclamation you can think of. I really can't imagine that our rock could be better than those rocks so I'll enjoy hearing your comparison.

peterSale

"They provide no geological or ecological information on the park."

Not in the Park itself, although if you look hard you will see a small info board at the new lookout.

For information on the area, the geology and the animals visit the visitor centre at the resort complex, it is near the shops. It has a good geology display of the formation and lots of stuffed animals and the history of the area and only a small mention of aborigines.

Quite a contrast to the centre in the park, that does not have any scientific info other than the day's weather forecast.

RalphR

Hello shortdesertguy -

I've twice traveled to Central Australia and the Great Ocean Rd. In fact, I did the GOR for the second time just this past November. You can read my trip report here:

http://www.fodors.com/community/aust...queensland.cfm

Although Uluru and the Olgas are beautiful and interesting, it's a long way to travel for just these two landmarks and to share them with hundreds or thousands of others. I really think they are best seen in the context of what the rest of Central Australia has to offer - Kings Canyon, the gorges of the East and West MacDonnell Ranges, Palm Valley, etc. But I'm not sure you'll have enough time for that kind of visit, given the distances involved. If you do go, I would highly recommend the Valley of the Winds hike through the Olgas - fantastic, but do it early in the day before the tour busses get there.

We loved the Great Ocean Rd, and if you read my report, not just for the scenery. The part from Anglesea to Cape Otway is somewhat reminiscent of California coastline (at least the part I've seen north of SF), but significantly greener. Most spectacular, in my opinion, is the area around Port Campbell and the Twelve Apostles - with the high cliffs, rugged inlets and sea caves. By all means get away from the crowds at the Twelve Apostles by stopping at some of the other attractions and taking a walk along the coast for a ways. Cape Otway, is definitely worth a stop, if only for a chance to see wild koalas, like we did.

On the second trip, we did not continue to Adelaide, since the coastal scenery is more subdued west of Peterborough. Instead, we looped inland to the Grampian Mts, then back to Melbourne. I would suggest you consider this option as well, since the Grampians offer some very nice scenery, great walks, and lots of opportunities to see Australian wildlife.

The only concern I have about the GOR is traveling there in July, when it could get pretty cold (though not freezing) and windy.