Do all 17 days on the South Ialand. Seriously.

I'm currently on the SI and would love to give you some ideas, as we seem to have a bit in common when it comes to interests, but my Internet connection is pretty miserable right now. You might get some ideas for a winter trip by clicking on my screen name and scrolling down through my trip reports for Chasing the Long White Cloud, a winter trip to the SI of NZ.

Mel,

I was hoping you would reply. I have been quite interested in all your posts, especially on your recent trip (now). In fact the reason I mentioned that we would be amenable to the suggestion of only the South Island is because I had gleaned that from your posts.

Right now, what would be really useful would be recommendations for places to stay. What 4 places would you have us consider that would be great places to base ourselves, both location-wise and lodgings themselves. Maybe somewhere where we could do some easy bike rides, maybe bike into a town, good food within 10 min. drive, etc.

Ideally, these "bases" would be max. 4 hours drive apart from each other.

I look forward to your reply, and will keep up with your postings!

Many thanks,

LisaG

Hi Lisa -

Unfortunately, distances and drive times are a major issue when traveling on the South Island. For instance, today we drove from Murchison to Hokitika, a drive that would probably take only 3.5 hours if driven straight through, but it took us close to nine hours. It's the distractions of course, and as the journey is part of the fun, we willingly get distracted quite a lot...we took several detours, spent some time in Punakaiki, made a detour to Lake Brunner where we walked for about an hour, had a late lunch in Greymouth, took an unmarked side road to chase down a sunset photo which lead to yet another walk, etc. The day just disappeared.

As you're traveling in winter your days will be short too - it's currently getting dark around 5 pm.

It's difficult to see the South Island by limiting one's bases, but if I had to choose a few good bases from which to take day trips, Queenstown would be at the top of the list. Not because I'm a fan of QT, quite the opposite, but because there's so much to see and do in the vicinity.

But even using QT as a base (or nearby Arrowtown, which I personally prefer for its quiet country accommodation) you're looking at a four hour drive each way to Milford Sound, two hours to Te Anau, 90 minutes to Wanaka, ~90 minutes to Cromwell (wine country) and 40 minutes to Glenorchy, then a bit more to access the tracks. The glaciers (a must see for most) is at least a six hour drive from QT, (about 4-5 five from Wanaka), so you're already blown the four hour drive max.

Christchurch might also make a viable base, although it wouldn't be my choice either. Akaroa is about a 90 minute drive, Kaikoura is about 2.5 hours, Hanmer Springs (not a must see by any stretch but mildly interesting) is just under two hours, Waipara (wine region) is about 45 minutes.

Nelson is a good base from which to see Abel Tasman, the lakes, and many other national parks and reserves as well as the Nelson area wineries and many local artists.

For the fourth base, maybe Dunedin, which gives easy access to the Otago Peninsula, the Catlins and is easy enough to get to from QT.

But, we've missed the glaciers, Mt Cook, Lake Tekapo, the Marlborough Sounds and wine region and most of the above bases are well over four hours apart.

I think you'd do best to do what most of us do...make a loop, spent 2-3 nights in each area that interests you most and see as you go.

Mel,

Many thanks! This is such good information and is exactly what I was needing.

Regarding "doing a loop" what loop would you recommend, and where would you suggest staying 2-3 nights? I love that idea and welcome your on-the-ground knowledge.

LisaG

A popular route for first time visitors...Christchurch-Arthur's Pass-Greymouth (with side trip to Punakaiki which is about 40 minutes each way), Franz/Foz Glaciers-Wanaka-Te Anau (to see Milford)-Queenstown-Mt Cook/Lake Tekapo-Christchurch.

That route pretty much hits the highlights.

Good overnight stops include Hokitika, multiple night stops include the glaciers, Wanaka, Te Anau, Queenstown, possibly Mt Cook.

If arriving from a long overnight flight, a night in Christchurch makes alot of sense, and possibly a full day there to explore, depending on your interests.

Another possible loop...Christchurch-Kaikoura-Picton/Nelson-then down the West Coast (a couple of routing options) to Punakaiki-Greymouth-Franz/Fox Glaciers-Wanaka-Te Anau-Queenstown and even on to Dunedin if that appeals to you.

It all comes down to what you most want to see and how long you want to spend in a given place. I can certainly give you some accommodation options as you narrow things down.

I personally prefer three nights in a given location, which allows two full days to explore, but sometimes (such as this trip for us) it just doesn't make sense.

Keep in mind that flying into say Christchurch and out of Queenstown or Duendin will give you more time as you'll not have to drive back...however, you'll have to choose your route as you won't be able to incorporate both the West Coast and the inland route. Which is way many people choose the driving loop - it enables them to see both routes, both of which are very worthwhile and completely different from one another.

Mel,

Thanks for the treasure trove of information. It is night time here now, so I'll tackle this tomorrow. I'll definitely be back to you with specific questions about this route as I explore with my info. and maps.

Many thanks for your patience and detail,

LisaG

Could be worth spending a couple of nights in and around Blenheim, one day exploring the Sounds (maybe mail boat run), Picton is about 15 minutes from Blenheim, and Havelock is just over 30 minutes, If you are interested in wine then a day going around the wineries surrounding the town could be spent. Kaikoura is about 1 1/2 hours to the south, St Arnaud is about a hour to the west, Nelson is just under two hours to the North West.

If you only plan on visiting New Zealand once, then I suggest visiting Rotorua, then fly down to the South Island.

Golden Bay is a delightful place to spend a couple of days, but I feel its to much of a detour.

Maybe.

Fly to Rotorua, then hire a car for a couple of days. Explore the geothermal attractions, wildlife parks and Cultural displays before flying to Blenheim.

Spend the afternoon exploring the wine region, the next day drive to Havelock and take the mail boat cruise exploring the sounds. Havelock is famous for mussels. If you have time to spare could be worth the 10 minute detour to explore the Pelorus Bridge scenic reserve.

Then down to Kaikoura, see the Baby Seals playing in the waterfall near Ohau Point. See the adult seals lazing on the rocks at Ohau Point Look out. Then onto Kaikoura. Could go Whale Watching, or do the Peninsula Walk, see the Seal colony at the end of the Penisula. Kaikoura is famous for Crayfish (Lobster) but they charge a premium.

Then Cross Lewis Pass (might want to detour to Hanmer Springs) to Grey Mouth. You could detour back and see the Pancake rocks at Punakaiki but I would advise continual onto Hokitika and overnight there.

Next day head down to the Glaciers. If you want to walk on them then you really need to spend the night, if you just want to walk up and take a few photos then it can be done in only a few hours. If you do not spend the night at the Glaciers, then push on and spend the night at Haast. The dead-end drive down to Jackson Bay is pleasant, and these a decent little seafood Caravan at Jackson bay.

Cross Haast Pass to Wanaka. Spend your remaining time exploring Central Otago, Te Anau, Catlins (if you have time) then fly out of Dundein back to Auckland.

Maybe

Rotorua: 2 Nights.
Blenheim: 2 Nights.
Kaikoura: 1 Night
Hokitka: 1 Night
Glaciers: 1 Night
Central Otago: 4 Nights
Te Anau: 2 Nights.
Dunedin: 2 Nights

With a day or two spare.


The above itinerary, would miss out Mt Cook (you would see it from the Westcoast), Tekapo, Christchurch and Nelson). Also renting a hire car from Nelson/Blenheim would likely be more expensive then renting one from Christchurch.

We spent 2 months touring the South and North islands in a campervan and felt it was the best way to see the country, at least for us. We did it in the winter (June and July) when it was clod but very quiet. I too would stick to the South Island. The flexibility that a campervan provides cannot be underestimated,especially when moving from place to place without haveing to pack and unpack every time. Although I assume that in summer, campsites, both commercial and DOC will be busy and may require advance booking.

All of the places mentioned above are excellent and I would find it really difficult to narrow it down but I guess there is just not enough time to see it all and I certainly would not dilute the experience by adding in the NI.
Some photo of the places we visited can be found on our blog:

http://blog.travelpod.com/travel-blog/candcthai/1/tpod.html

Entries#39 on cover New Zealand

ThomasW and crellston,

Thank you so much for this great information. Your detail is most useful and exactly what I need at this point.

I will review today and get back with questions.....

I am overwhelmed with people's generosity.

LisaG

August is not 'summer' it is 'winter' AND pretty much the dead of winter. While Mel has been many times and bad weather just means doodle around in town, for a first time visitor it can mean you see nothing but clouds and rain.

In bad weather (which very often also means early "summer") I have found that the Queenstown/Central Otago area tends to be drier and sunnier. This is also the spot with lots of activities and you can branch out to Milford Sound, Te Anau, Cromwell, Dunedin or Mt Cook as your second stop.

I try not to plan these bad weather low season trips too tightly. It is better to just "FOLLOW THE SUN" if you can keep ahead of the semi=reliable weather reports. NZ is a bit like Hawaii with a wet side/dry side pattern especially in the South Island.

On the north island Rotorua is a good bad=weather destination as the hots springs in the rain are fun. Also forest hiking...good weather or bad, mostly the same view, of the trees.

If you get luck you can have long clear spells in "WINTER" so I think it is best to stay flexible.

migb,

Thank you for the suggestion to "follow the sun" and make some determinations on-the-ground when we get there. I definitely know it will be winter, and we are packing accordingly. I like the idea of using the weather as our guide, or at least having it be a general director.

Much appreciated,

LisaG

If/When you go to the North Island. White Island by helicopter is not to be missed. There nothing like flying over, then walking on an active volcano.

Here is anther place near rotorua definitely not to be missed. It is one of the best managed places I've been. The paths are purposely not straight for any more than 50m that way you rarely see anyone else and feel you are the only ones there.
http://www.waimangu.co.nz/

Winter is a great time to go as there are fewer people about. We loved our trips in winter.

We insist that the South Island is more beautiful and offers a greater variety of scenery, attractions and activities.

We did 17 days around the South Island a few years back. You can take a look at my report if you have not already done so.

peterSale,

Thank you for the tempting info. on the North Island.

Chenoa,

Thank you for your referral to your trip report from '05. What a great trip that must have been!

I'm sitting here with the map up on the wall, and planning some routes. More later....

LisaG

If you don't another older trip report, we spent 10 days on the North Island in 2004 and really enjoyed ourselves.
http://www.fodors.com/community/australia-the-pacific/nz-trip-report-april-2004.cfm

Lee Ann

All,

Many thanks for your thoughtful and detailed input. Our itinerary is now as follows, and hopefully we are capturing some of the ideas you all have passed on. My current questions are:

-- too long or short in one place?
-- am I underestimating any of the driving times?

I know we can't see everything, so this is really a "taster" trip for the South Island that is appropriate for winter:

Aug 7 Fly Auckland to Q"Town
Pick up rental car
Drive to Wanaka (1.5 hours)
Stay 2 ngihts

Aug 9 Drive to Dunedin (4 hours)
Stay 3 nights

Aug 12 Drive to Oamaru (1.5 hours)
Stay 2 nights

Aug 14 Drive to Akaroa (4.5 hours)
Stay 2 nights

Aug 16 Drive to Kaikoura (4 hours)
Stay 2 nights

Aug 18 Drive to Blenheim (1.5 hours)
Stay 3 nights

Aug 21 Fly Blenheim to Auckland
Fly to US

I welcome your comments.

LisaG

Mine are rather drastic suggestions, I'm afraid, but here goes.

Skip Blenheim. It's a town of little interest and the scenery all around is industrial-scale grape farming and clearcut logging. The Queen Charlotte track is spectacular, but Picton is a better base for that. Then head over to Abel Tasman and Golden Bay for a couple of days with more excellent scenery (using Nelson or Motueka as a base). You can fly back from Nelson, or take the Buller Gorge to Westport (I've done this in winter) for yet more excellent scenery and fly from there.

I don't see the point of going to Queenstown/Wanaka for 2 days in winter unless you are into skiing or are going to Milford Sound, in which cases you'd want to stay longer.

The interesting route to Dunedin is via the Catlins and that takes all day, not 4 hours.

The northern parts of both islands can be delightful in winter. I'd trim a day from each of Dunedin, Oamaru, Akaroa, and Kaikoura (which then gives each of them the right amount of time) and invest those days in the Northland (the peninsular north of Auckland).

I think you have to much time in Akaroa, unless you already have activities planned for the area. Two nights might also be to much for Oamaru but been a while since I been there.

Can easily spend three Nights around Blenheim. Plenty of options, even a day trip up to St Arnaud (Nelson Lakes National Park) and doing a few hikes.

Plenty to do and see in the Sounds. Think I already mentioned the mail boat run which many tourist seem to like. Picton gets the sun quite late in winter so takes a bit longer to warm up and is a bit more out of the way, although its only a 15 minute drive between the towns.

Your rental car policy would probably disallow this, but the drive out to French Pass offers same excellent vistas.

Could spend half a day exploring the Wairau Lagoons (Salt mash). Either on foot, or by Kayak. Quite a few birds can be spotted.

The Omaka Aviation Heritage Centre is worth a look, even if you are not overly interested in WWII fighters.

So

Day 1: Wineries, Heirate Centre.
Day 2: Sounds: Mail Boat ride, Dolphin watch, Kayaking, hiking. Drive out to French Pass.
Day 3: St Anaurd and Nelson lake hiking.

The drive to French Pass is a full day trip and not to be taken lightly, particularly in the winter months and with a rental car. Trust me on this. It's hardly a "must see" either.

I rate it as one of the top coastal drives in the country. But yes its a day trip, about three hours from Blenheim. These not much to do once there but the drive is the experience not the destination.

The others being from Golden Bay, pass Westhaven Inlet and across to the Westcoast and down to Anatori River Mouth pass. Also the road from Colville to Port Jackson on the Coromandel Pensiula.

But sadly most of the scenic coastal drives are on gravel roads so rental car policies disallow them so many tourists never get to experience them.

ThomasW and Mel,

Thanks so much for your comments. I am taking to heart that we may be overstaying Akaroa and Oamaru. We may take that as it comes, depending on the weather, and how much we feel like just "hanging and relaxing". We are planning to stay 3 nights in Blenheim, and I will keep your suggestions.

Mel, a special thanks to you for your car rental suggestions off of another post.

LisaG
P.S. We just went to the backpacking store to get rain pants for wet-weather tramping!

Sorry! Thanks to someotherguy too! Good comments on the North part of the SI.

Lisa -

We lived in our rain pants this year. I layer mine over a pair of silk long underwear for warmth w/o bulk. Helps against the wind too. Wore them more this trip than ever in the past.

Just now was checking out LL Bean for some new gear. Time for a new Gortex and fleece, as mine are pretty ancient.

As for French Pass, here's my detailed description of the drive which we made last June. I agree with Thomas that it's a spectacular drive, but it's not generally on the wish list of first time visitors - took us nine trips to even discover it.

--------
Forty-five minutes after leaving Nelson, we turn off towards Elaine Bay, where we study a sign of myriad confusing options. It appears that French Pass is a one hour, 40 minute drive from here. We continue through pastures, rolling hills, and some areas completely devoid of trees due to logging. The road is typically curvy; it quickly becomes seriously narrow, clinging freakishly close to the edge of the road. The sheer drop offs on the left side of the car wig me out.

Spotting a track sign, we pull off and walk the Goat Hill Track, an undulating path that leads to an overlook and gives us a taste of what’s in store (30 minutes, one mile return). We continue our drive to Okiwi Bay, amazed at the 100 kilometer per hour speed limit signs back here; we’re barely doing 50 and still have to slow for the countless tight turns. Okiwi Bay is a quiet little community with pretty bay views, but bigger than either of us expected given the challenges of getting to it. We continue, driving 17 kilometers to Elaine Bay via the Moncreiff Scenic Reserve, passing the sad remains of a forest that has been logged to death. Apiaries are everywhere; we pass two men wrapped head to toe in protective clothing collecting bee hives and putting them on a truck. I wouldn’t want that job.

We reach a fork in the road; one tine leads to Elaine Bay, the other to French Pass. We head down to Elaine Bay first, finding yet another peaceful bayside community. We turn back and take the unsealed road to French Pass, soon dodging large rocks, worried we’ll puncture a tire, and wondering what we’ve gotten ourselves into. We continue anyway, ever curious about what lies ahead. We break free of the forest, finding ourselves on roadway which has been cut into the side of the peninsula, its tentacles stretching deep into the sounds. We’re precariously perched on the edge of the terraced hillside, it’s freaky, but the views are spectacular. We’re surrounded by deep blue water, lush green pasture and perpetually bent trees. It’s so windy that I can’t open the car door at one point, not that I really want to, considering the drop off on the other side.

The road is paved again as we make our stomach dropping descent into the tiny village of French Pass, home to the narrow and treacherous stretch of water separating the mainland from D’Urville Island. If you’re looking for remote and isolated, this is the place. The wind is fierce and icy. We chat up a friendly Kiwi on the dock awaiting his boat to D’Urville Island; he’s going there to conduct pregnancy tests on sheep.

To get a sense of this drive, take a look here:

http://www.wises.co.nz/l/Croisilles-french+Pass+Road/#c/-40.928478/173.842485/16/
------------------

Regarding rental cars Lisa -if you're going to go off the main roads and explore extensively as we do, you're best renting an older car from APEX. These cars are well bumped and bruised and have already been put through their paces, yet they're well maintained and operate just fine.

French Pass is really only worth doing if you have a whole day to spare and you feel like driving. It does not get much promotion, mainly because its a backwater and these no tourist operations there to pay for it. Its a little jewel which few ever discover.

I never seen the road in poor condition, just typical gravel. Were you there after a storm event?

If you think the road to Okiwi is narrow, I advise never to drive to Tennyson inlet. Thats a narrow road, in one spot it does have a tree in the middle of it. (Tennyson inlet is quite a sleepy little collection of holiday communities, its nice enough but should be far down the list of places to visit.)

If I have three days in Blem, I would probably spend them exploring the wineries, day trip to Nelson Lakes and a day Kayaking/Cruising in the Sounds.

On the way to Kenepuru Sounds these a little tourist venture which hires out small self drive motorboats, you basically follow the guide who has a bigger boat and he gives a commentary. I am not overly fond of the business because they go zooming pass me while I am anchored up fishing ruining my tranquility but it seems to be popular.

Thats it there.
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g285728-d1594635-Reviews-Waterways_Boating_Safaris-Picton_Marlborough_South_Island.html

I don't think there'd been a storm Thomas, but it was winter. The road wasn't what I'd consider rental car appropriate (sedan), but it certainly didn't hold us back. I'm sure the locals wouldn't give it a second thought, but visitors might.

Yeah, I did mention that rental policy would probably not allow it. But they do not allow rentals onto any gravel roads. (Although I seen heaps in at Harwoods hole, and that road is quite rough for 2wds. Many people just take the risk I guess).

I only been to French pass once in winter, and never during bad weather, and from memory the place in the forests was a bit greasy but the rest of the road was in good condition. The road down to Port Ligar is normally in worst condition but I would not hesitate for a second to take a car down it.

Gravel roads are in a constant state of change, maybe the grader had just been through and exposed a bunch of stones.

A person would miss a heck of a lot if they avoided gravel roads in NZ. Or fords for that matter.

Same for Western Australia - many of the national parks here are accessible via gravel road only. We just do what we do, and if something happens, we accept responsibility.

I was half expecting the rental car company to charge us for the damage a Kea did to the rubber window molding while we were in Milford, but so far so good. Do they actually eat the rubber, or just peck at it?

This is great color commentary on rental cars! Love it.

I support others' suggestions and wanted to add a bit. I agree you shouldn't spend 2 nights in Oamaru, maybe not even one, unless you are keen on seeing the blue penguins come in at night or will do other sightseeing in the area.

I don't mean to say that Oamaru or its environs are not worth seeing, it is just you have so few days and your nights in Oamaru come at the expense of missing out on other iconic scenery. For instance, I can't imagine not seeing Te Anau-Milford Sound, which you can even do as a one day combination coach and cruise tour out of Queenstown. You can arrange to take a scenic flight back on the return. My husband and I did this when we first visited Queenstown (about 15 years ago). We usually prefer to self-drive but in this case we were happy to let someone else do the driving (so we didn't have to worry about ice or snow on the roads). I really enjoyed the tour and still vividly and fondly remember our activities and the tour guide's commentaries. We also decided to extend the day tour by doing an overnight stay on Milford Sound (which didn't really enhance our experience).

I don't know what your plans for Wanaka are, but personally, I find the scenery flanking northbound State Highway 6 breathtakingly beautiful (this is the main road that goes from Wanaka, past Lake Hawea, through Haast Pass, through Mt. Aspiring National Park, and then over to the West Coast and finally up to the glaciers). However, as you will be here in winter, the road conditions will be subject to dramatic weather shifts. Also, don't miss the views from Wanaka's Rippon Winery.

On behalf of Oamaru, I should say it has a beautifully restored Victorian center, a blue penguin colony, and a beach where yellow-eyed penguins and fur seals can be seen. Enroute from Dunedin to Oamaru, you can stop to see the giant round boulders at Moeraki Beach, see the penguins or admire the stunning view at Katiki Point Lighthouse, or stop at scenic Shag Point.

I also agree three nights in Dunedin might be one too many unless you use one of these days to make a day trip down to the Catlins. Nugget Point would be a must (90 minutes from Dunedin). Wondrous Curio Bay (about two to two hours 15 minutes from Dunedin) is one of the best places to see yellow eyed penguins, particularly if you can see them at low tide, which will also give you access to the seashore, where you check out the remains of an ancient petrified forest. Keep in mind, if you stay to see the penguins during the afternoon at Curio Bay you will be driving back to Dunedin in the dark. Luckily, there is little traffic on this road at night.

Again, there is much to see and do in Dunedin, but an extra day here comes at the expense of seeing other places. One of your Dunedin days should be spent exploring the Otago Peninsula.

I hope the weather gods shine down on your trip. We had a week of sunny, warm, nearly windless days (though freezing nights) here in Dunedin, and then yesterday we finally received the storms that have been hitting most of the North and South Islands. So try to check the weather conditions as you go.
http://www.metservice.com/national/index

Thankfully, in winter (low-season) you needn't prebook every accommodation and can remain somewhat flexible, in case you need to make last-minute changes due to weather/road conditions. Unfortunately, ski areas such as Wanaka and Queenstown do get crowded, so you probably should prebook Wanaka.

If the road conditions are okay and you end up spending just one night in Oamaru, consider taking the inland scenic detour to Christchurch/Akaroa (Highway 83 to Highway 8 that goes through Waitaki Valley, Mackenzie District, past Mt. Cook Outlook, etc.) You can spend the night in Twizel or Lake Tekapo.

Akaroa is a picturesque town and its Hector's Dolphins are delightful, but I wouldn't spend two nights there if it were my first trip to New Zealand (again, so much else to see). I guess you want to break up the long drive to Kaikoura by staying somewhere in the area, but keep in mind the drive down into Akaroa from the main highway can be a bit demanding (winding narrow road). We drove there in thick fog.

Good luck and have a great time!

Dianamtina,

What a great list of suggestions. I agree with keeping the Oamaru (and other places on the coast) flexible. We will plan those as we go depending on the weather conditions and our mood.

Many thanks,

LisaG