Hi Eigasuki,

I totally understand your need to return to Japan again and again. I've only been there 3 times but will definitely be returning soon. I don't have any recommendations for a hotel in the areas you are asking about, but since you are starting your planning for the Hokkaido portion of your trip, you might be interested in my Hokkaido trip report from last June. Here's the link, in case you missed it: http://www.fodors.com/community/asia/reporting-from-hokkaido.cfm

Airport bus to/from a Shinagawa hotel would probably be my choice.

Thanks, aprillilacs. Actually your trip report is already in my planning folder and was a great inspiration, especially the fabulous photos. I'll be going mid April and with less time so some of Hokkaido will have to wait for a future trip, possibly in summer. I'm assuming there'll still be snow and too early for flowers and leaf. I wouldn't be hiking anyway.

I'd like to get across to Kushiro and Shiretoko, but it seems a long way if I only have a couple of days. WOuld it be too much of a rush?

That's what I thought too, mrwunfl - don't fancy too many changes of train - but hoping someone who's done the late night arrival might have some other ideas.

Are you considering visiting Noboribetsu?

I think Shiretoko would definitely be too much in that short a time if you're going from Sapporo. But you could skip the Sapporo area and fly instead from Haneda to Kushiro, if your main interest lies in seeing the Shiretoko Peninsula. That would cut the driving way down.

I times some get the same reaction over my multiple trips to places all over Mexico. Only I get the, "are you nuts, you still go to MX with all the drug violence" comments.

Those are the people that I don't tell about our condo purchase in Playa del Carmen, and how we have let friends use it at low rental rates, and how we have invited many different friends and couples to come down and use the 2nd bedrm while we are there. And best of all, how we have now done two condo swaps with friends who have condos in other places we want to visit.

Their loss. Why should they care where you are going anyway? If they were friends they'd be happy you found a country you love that much.

Have a WONDERFUL trip. I love Japan.

ooops, should be "sometimes."

Typing on a laptop while on a bus to NYC has its challenges.

Oh emd3, I'm just joking with the title. I did a big trip to France last year and everyone was "So jealous, you lucky thing." Japan doesn't feature on their bucket lists but they do understand why it appeals to me.

My latest thinking is maybe giving Kushiro and Shiretoko a miss or this trip and focus on Sapporo, Otaru and places west. Thinking pretty much following in HT's 2008 footsteps. Is there any reason to go to Noboribetsu apart from onsen? Much as I enjoy onsen, not so much that I detour specially for it.

Oh, I guess I am sensitive to those comments, bc some of us who enjoy traveling to the same country over and over again do get the "what, are you totally obsessed?" attitude. I have spoken to othe travelers who get it...poor souls, just haven't found their own country yet...

Where have I heard that line before?

Thank you for considering following in my footsteps,I am honored.

No other reason to go to Noboribetsu except to see and experience the Daiichi Takimotokan spa and onsen. You don't need to stay there for the experience. There are day trips from Sapporo where you catch a bus out to the onsen and back for a few hours. You can also stay next door at the Takimoto Inn as we did for a lot less price wise and since they are both owned by the same company, you get full bath privileges at the Daiichi Takimotokan for free.

If you do like onsen then this one is not to be missed. Still the best set of hot springs I have seen anywhere in Japan. There are over 36 types of baths IIRC in a huge two story setting both inside and outside(rotenburo). All the baths are unique and at different temps, solutions, water types, water falls,water motions, steam rooms, sauna rooms, a large heated pool, all with a view of the "hells" which are located right outside the rotenburo of the hotel, just unbelievable!

http://japaneseguesthouses.com/db/noboribetsu/daiichi.htm

They do have a bear zoo right up the hill from the hotel but we gave that a pass. Other than that, Noboribetsu is just another small town in Hokkaido. Nearby Lake Toya and the National Park is worth a look or two especially if driving.

There will still be a lot of snow on the ground(especially this year with the late winter happening as I write) in the hills surrounding Sapporo and especially up north in Shiretoko so you might want to give it a pass this time and come back and drive in the summer or fall months when the beauty of Hokkaido is at its best imho. You won't believe you are in Japan and all that wonder starts when you leave Sapporo and drive north west. Most people I've met relate to Sapporo as their view of Hokkaido. I rarely mention Sapporo when tell people of the wonders of Hokkaido.

That said we are thinking of going to Shiretoko in the winter months one of these days to see the sea pack ice and see the Ice sculptures in Sapporo but don't plan to spend much time there at that time of the year.

emd is right, poor souls just haven't found their own country yet,lol.

Aloha!

I am off tomorrow, storms willing. My itineary is still a work in progress as I try to meet up with friends who will be in Japan too, and adapting after one has had to cancel.

My arrival dilemma has been solved by a friend kindly offering not only to put me up for a couple of nights but to collect me from the airport. It will be so lovely to meet up with her and see how she has settled into Japan.

Osaka, Matsue and Hokkaido ar definitely on the agenda, and hopefully takusan sakura. I'll try to keep you posted with updates.

The storms have parted for you eigasuki, I wish you a pleasant journey.

Stop off in Hakodate along the way and take in the view at Hakodateyama at sunset.....pretty cool..... literally....don't forget the jacket. The morning fish market close to the station is unique for all of the different varieties of crab and sea weeds available. Cuttle crab.....oishiiiiii.....who knew?

You will be arriving smack dab in the prime time cherry blossom viewing weekend in Osaka. Osaka-jo is really a treat during this time of year and the adjacent Nishinomaru Gardens are worth the price of admission. The garden has over 600 cherry trees and you can get that infamous picture shot of the castle through the trees from the garden......just fabulous. Love all the gold(fish) adorning the top of this castle as it glistens in the morning sunlight.....awesome. Not to mention Kyoto and all its sakura spots(Philosophers Path ahhhhhh) nearby....can you tell I am envious?

Keep the envious of us informed when you can and Gambatte!!

Aloha!

Bon voyage and, yes, please do update us any time you feel inclined to do so.

The sakura are blooming nicely here in Yokohama. I nearly didn't get here till today. My flight leaving home was delayed and it looked like I would miss my connection in Hong Kong and would have to overnight there. Being upgraded to business class helped ease the pain and I had a very pleasant flight to Hong Kong, there to discover that the flight to Haneda had also been delayed and so I was able to make it after all. Best of all my checked luggage also made the connection and thanks to flight tracker, my friends kept track of my movements (wasn't sure they would get my emails, texts and Fb updates as the were pout and about)and were there at the airport to collect me.

Today we went to Negishi koen to walk the dog and enjoy the sakura and then walked from their home into Yokohama along Minato Mieru Oka Koen and and onto World Porter for lunch then I rode the Clock 21 ferris wheel while they opted for the Vanish roller coaster.

Sakura are blooming everywhere but many still have lots of buds so weather permitting, they should last a bit longer. Got to validate my JR Pass and booked a ticket for Osaka tomorrow - migigawa window seat, so fingers crossed. It was too hazy to see Fuji today though apparently you get a good view from the corner of our street when conditions are right.

OH man, an on the road trip report! Keep it coming eigasuki!! Glad you made it and had friends waiting for you. That must be a very nice feeling, to have friends there after such a long set of flights. And the sakura...perfect.

It was indeed lovely to be met at the airport (they even had a sign with my name in Japanese!) and to have a couple of relaxing days to catch up with friends and ease myself into my trip- it was a busy couple of weeks before leaving. Today I stopped of at Hikone en route to Osaka.

I had a very pleasant few hours at Hikone. It wasa lovely sunny day with hanami parties in progress though most trees are still not open. Hikone seems not to be on the tourist radar but it's well worth a stop, especially while Himeji is under repair. There were impressive views of Biwa-ko and snow-covered mountains on the opposite side.

There's also a very pleasant stroll garden where I indulged in the ritual (for me) maccha and sweet.

The town mascot for Hikone is Hiko-nyan, a white cat wearing a samurai helmet and he is everywhere in the town, with every conceivable souvenir available. I was there in time to watch a crowd gathering, then an attendant used a watering can to mark a large semi circle on the stones at the foot of the castle wall and the crowd obediently sat behind the line. Eventually a large Hiko-nyan came out and danced and performed, to the delight of young and old. Actually, I toured the inside of the castle while the performance was on so not sure what he/she/it actually did. There was also a large marquee set up near the hanami party area with numerous souvenirs and an annoying theme song.

The train back to Maibara was actually behind schedule by - gasp- eight minutes so there was also a wait for the next hikari through to Osaka.

The sakura I saw from the train in Kyoto and Osaka seem to be at full loom so I'll be out tomorrow to take a few snaps.

Sounds like a great day! I was not aware of Hikone or the castle there, but I just googled it and the castle looks lovely, similar to Himeji but perhaps smaller? I see that Hikone is one of only 4 castles listed as a natl. treasure, and one of only 12 Japanese castles w/its original keep.

Are celings low in Hikone castle, did you bump your head? I took some major bumps and even got whacked and fell over at one low arch at Himeji, lol.

About to visit for the fifth time. Not that we are in a rut as we also travelled to Italy,Rhodes and Turkey recently. Having found a ticket Australia-Singapore-Fukuoka we'll start by seeing the parts of Kyushu not seen before then travel up the San-in Coast to Tottori then to Osaka by way of Himeji,Uji and Ohara. We rent cars as much as possible (not in big cities) use mainly Tocoo.com and Budget. It is a pleasure to drive in Japan and we have covered most of it that way, top to bottom. Mainly use Toyoko Inns too...so convenient!
Will follow your notes with interest. Try a rental car, you'll love it!

BTW .....I'm yeshekathy's other ,lesser half.And driver. you might have followed her trip reports here.....

One of the other 4 NT castles is Inuyama, which is quite nearby. There are famous tea huts there, too. Nearby is Meiji-Mura, which is very interesting (they have the lobby of Frank Lloyd Wright's Imperial Hotel among many other buildings from all over Japan), and Gifu for Cormorant fishing. On the way back to Kyoto you can stop off at Ishiyama-dera, where Murusaki Shikibu is said to have written the first chapters of Genjo Monogatari It's a very beautiful place and they have an exhibit about her.

By the way, I notice you are going to Hokkaido. I did not find Sapporo or Otaru very interesting. What I did enjoy was the Shiretoko Penisular and Daisetsuzan, especially the area south of Sounkyo Onsen (through the tunnel), and the lakes Mosshu (a caldera like Crater Lake, but bigger), Akan, and Kussharo. You need a car to visit these and it might be a bit early in the year to go there. The northern part of Tohoko might be a better bet.

Thanks for the travel tips but time is tight unfortunately.I've pondered the Hokkaido section long and hard and decided to give Shiretoko a miss this time - just too much of a rush.

Monday I went to Amanohashidate - on the other side of the island. Rather than sit around waiting for a train, I went via Kyoto so saw lots of sakura along the way. I walked along the platform and boarded the limited express Hashidate thanks to the JR pass. We set off through the bamboo forests of Arashiyama and through tunnels and over rivers and through the countryside.

The last portion of the trip is not on JR tracks. The conductor told me I would have to change trains at Fukuchiyama, so when we reached there I got off to get a ticket and was directed back onto the same train - which waits for people such as myself and those who actually came direct from Osaka. When we set off again, there were passengers just buying their tickets on the train, as I had at first presumed I would do. Grr.

There was another nervous moment when the train stopped for a few minutes, then set off in the direction we'd just come from. I was sure I hadn't missed my stop and sure enough in minutes we'd headed around the bay to Amanohashidate. This place is on the west coast and site of one of the "three most beautiful sites in Japan." The others are Miyajima and Matsushima, so now I have seen all three.

You go to Amanohashidate because there is a sand bar stretching across the bay covered with pine trees. Pretty in itself ( and doubtlessly more so in sunny weather) but the big thing is that if you put your back to the view, bend over and look between your legs, you see the path to heaven. Apparently.

I first did the cable car ride up the mountain on the south side. The view from this side is supposed to resemble a flying dragon. At the top here there's a rather nice amusement park with rides designed for small children and a rose garen which isn't much yet. There sakura here are a long way from blooming which was a bit of a shame. And the picnic tables had signs warning that hawks (or kites or falcons etc) would steal your food.

After lunch I did the ferry trip across the bay and the cable car ride to where you see the stairway to heaven. Apparently. This side is much more commercial and touristy - there's more room for the tour buses and a couple of temples and shrines. There were at least two tour buses doing "henro" with the pilgrims in their white jackets.

As for the bending over thing - there are special benches and everyone's doing it so you don't really feel like an idiot. Actually it was very windy so mostly you felt like you'd be blown away. You can also buy clay discs (3 for 100 yen) and try to throw them through a large circle on a pole. Not easy in the wind.

On the way back on the ferry some had availed themselves of the chance to feed the seagulls (packets of seagull food 100 yen) and there was much squealing and excitement as the gull swooped and snatched the food.

You can also walk across the sand bar - its about 4 kms, and hire bikes etc. and there are other ferry rides to places further afield. There's a bridge across the opening to the ocean and it swivels on a central mount- I saw it open to let a couple of barges through.

Unfortunately I didn't pay close enough attention to the time and , having missed the 3.00 train, there wasn't another one till 4.30, which made it rather late getting back to Osaka and it was getting dark as we passed through Takarazawa which is a pity as there seemed to be madly blooming sakura everywhere.

Met up with my friend and we went to a cool little restaurant in Umeda where you cook your own takoyaki. W

eigasuki, I take it that you didn't see the path to heaven when you did the bend over thing. (Apparently, lol) But you got to cook your own takoyaki later, which in itself is a little slice of heaven, eh? I have never heard of a cook your own takoyaki place. I've been to cook your own places w/griddles in Japan (like Sometoro in Asakusa in Tokyo, make your own yakisoba and okonomiyaki, yum), but have not seen takoyaki to cook yourself. Maybe it is a thing in Osaka?

I am a big Hiroshige fan, I own some authentic woodblock 1st eds of his. He did a nice ukiyo-e of Amanohashidate.

http://www.hiroshige.org.uk/hiroshige/60_odd_provinces/images/38_Ama-no_Hashidate_Tango.jpg

So what has been going on since Monday?

Am enjoying your report, eigasuki, and looking forward to more.

I visited Hikone-jo last fall as a day trip from Osaka. There is a tourist office at the bottom of the steps at the station exit and a tourist-bus stop just beyond that. It is a nice castle, smaller than Himeji. The stairway is not tricky like Himeji-jo so you would safe, emd, probably.

Loving your updates!

At Fukuchiyama we all had to exit our JR train that was headed back to Kyoto and took another train waiting for the onward journey. We were coming from Kinosaki at the time. I too was worried later when after a stop they switched tracks and started going back where we had just come but turned in the right direction shortly and stopped that stressed feeling I was starting to have at that moment,lol.

We had planned on Matsushima last year to complete the trilogy but Mother Nature got in our way a bit.....will have to wait for another trip north to complete the three sites.

I am almost certain that I've read somewhere that takoyaki balls originated in Osaka along with a lot of other Japanese comfort foods.....it is the "Kitchen of Japan"

Thanks again for the updates, we won't be in Japan this year so will have to live vicariously through everyone's reports.

Aloha!

There are plenty of opportunities for the head bangers in Hikone-jo, though there aren't as many stairs as in Himeji, they are still very steep. Luckily I'm not that tall so not aa problem for me.


I seemed to be the only non- Japanese at Amanohashidate but Tuesday I headedfor Kyoto during hanami, tourist central at the best of times. First item of business was to negotiate the Osaka subway system in rush hour. I utilised one of the Women Only carriages but it was the most crowded of the lot - that must say something. Actually it's an easy connection from my station straight to Shin Osaka to catch the shinkansen.

I then transferred at Kyoto eki to the JR Nara line to Tofukuji. This was a very nice temple with a couple of nice gardens, one of which is quite new but an award winning karesansui garden. A little river runs through it and though there were no cherry blossoms, it will be stunning in a few days when the maple leaves are out. There were almost no people there so it was very tranquil, especialy after the crowds and hustle and bustle of Osaka.

I originally planned to walk from the to Fushimi Inari but couldnt figure out how so retraced my steps to the station. There I fell into the trap of the small town girl and jumped on the train when it pulled up, only to realise as it sped through Inari station, that it was the rapid that only stops at some stations.

I wasn't the only one - many got off at the next stop, Rokujizo, and consulted maps and sign boards. However, as it was the station where you get the Tozai subway , I decided to by pass Fushimi Inari (have been there before) and go straight to my next planned destination. I caught the subway to Daigo and followed a group of senior citizens, supposing they were also heading to the temple.Bad idea - they were in a group and heading for a special bus pick-up. So I missed the crowds heading for the easiest wway and walked "around the block" so to speak before reconnecting with the mob.I eventually found the way and reached the temple complex.

As well as being a World Heritage listed site, Daigo-ji is famous for its history, its religious relics and the famous people who've contributed to its development. And then there are its numerous sakura which line the avenues that lead to the various buildings. Despite the huge crowds, it was just stunning. There are several varieties of sakura, all blooming madly in shades from white to dark pink. Weeping ones, double ones and absolutely huge ones with horizontal, gnarled branches supported by poles. There's a gallery and museum with various statues, Buddhas etc.

There are three mani temple complexes which you can buy a joint ticket or some combination. My favourite was Sanboin. It has the most amazing garden and the most jolly monks- the others looked stressed and sombre, these were friendly and welcoming.

I climbed to the top to see the spring and queued for nearly fifty minutes to get an entry in my goshoincho.

It's very extensive and spread up the mountain on rocky paths with gravel and people everywhere taking photos and not looking where they are going. By the time I got back to central Kyoto, the light was fading my original plan to visit Nijo-jo for the night illumination was passed on,and I headed back to Osaka for an early night doing laundry and packing up ready for my next stop.

Great report, thanks for sharing!
Amanohashidate sounds very interesting - did you think about staying over there at all?

Now what happened to the post I wrote last night....?

Mara there's not that much to see in Amanohashidate IMO, I always thought of it as a day trip though it has a relaxed family holiday vibe if that'ws your thing. I would make a good side trip to/from Kinosaki Onsen I think.

On Wednesday the weather was poor and so was the visibilty on the Sakura shinkansen. It was warm and comfortable and I was tired and very tempted to sit there and go to Kagoshima just for the heck of it. Instead I bypassed Onomichi, my overnight destination, which looked gloomy and depressing in the rain, and headed for Hiroshima. Okonomiyaki for lunch at one of the numerous restaurants and the station, a quick trip to Genbaku dome to see it with sakura and by then the weather had cleared somewhat so I made it to Shukkeien Gardens by following the Path of Culture and Enlightenment - or something like that. LOVED Shukkeien which looked delighful with wet rocks and sakura, some with petals froming pink carpets below.

The next day the weather was very much better and I did part of the Shimanami Kaido. I caught a bus to the Innoshima interchange where I picked up the highway bus bound for Imabari on Shikoku. I had read that the bridges at that end are the most impressive and I would say that is the case. However, don't do as I did and go to Imabari eki. I then had to back track to the first bridge - about 6kms and half an hour of cycling. I could have got off the bus and hired a bike at the Kurushima Kaiyou stop.

However the weather was glorious and it was a very pleasant cycle for the most part - except for the seemingly never-ending upward slopes. More sensible people allocate more time. I had to get to Matsue by night - a trip of nearly 3 hours not counting the bit from Onomichi to Okayama, so about 3 when I reached the cycle hire place near Tatara Bridge, I returned the bike and caught the bus back to the interchange, the local to Onomichi etc. Still, it was nearly 40kms, not bad for someone who can't remember the last time she was on a bike.

The route is really well signposted with blue lines lining the road, rest stops, maps and information boards and there's lots to see on the way for those with time to side track.

You cycled the Shimanami Kaido, and you are not a biker! That sounds like so much fun. I've gone across the bridge but not biked it. I am not biker either, this gives me hope.

And okonomiyaki at Hiroshima station...I wonder if you went to my favorite couple's pace in the downstairs of the station, just outside the grocery store down there. Just a little place w/15 or so chairs and a few tables, but I was so impressed the 1st time w/my son that I made it a point to take my dughter back there on the 2nd trip to Japan. It was just a yr. later but the man actually remembered me, making a sign w/his hand up high, meaning he recalled that I had been w/my 6'3" son the time before. That impressed me almost as much as his okonomiyaki.

I looked into staying in Okoyama once, but had not heard of Onomichi. I just looked it up and it looks like a sweet little town, right on the inland sea. May I ask where you were going to stay overnight there?

I admire your ability to switch gears and go on to Hiroshima instead. And thanks for the review of Shukkeien. Where did you stay overnight in Hiroshima?

And where did you end up Thurs. night?

I didn't overnight at Hiroshima - I stayed at the Green Hill Hotel at Onomichi - right on the waterfront and right by the station. Very convenient and quite a pleasant place to stay. would have done the temple walk instead of Hiroshima but wimped out on the weather.

I wanted to bus across the Akashi bridge too but time got the better of me. Have done the Seto Ohashi from Okayama on the train a few times now.

Rain also dampened things today at Matsue castle and made touring the samurai area less fun than I hoped. I went out to the Adachi Art Gallery and garden - the garden is just fabulous but you can't walk in it and it's just a bit too manicured. Interesting trip by local train and shutttle bus to get there.

Matsue is really trying to cater for international travellers - 50% off most entrance fees, lots of English information. Hopefully it will be sunny tomorrow . I'm at Toyoko Inn here - like to stay near the station on a short visit. I discovered my shortfalls with ohashi tonight - I could not dismember a whole crispy skinned fish and get at the flesh. Hazukashii.

Wow, this is getting better and better!
I did the Temple Walk in Onomichi a couple of years ago - it was very interesting plus there was a cable car ride to Senkoji Park which had many sakura at the time and a lovely museum as well.
I was also thinking of Matsue and that area on my next trip....
eigasuki - I have checked japan-guide.com and see the bus schedules there for the trip you took on the Shimanami Kaido - is that what you used? Do you read Japanese?

Mara I used the info from japan- guide in my research into the feasibilty of my plans but lost my print out when I took it out of my folder so I actually 'winged it' on the day. i was really lucky to make three out of the four connections - had to wait 30 minutes for the other. Maybe I could have done the temple walk in the rain but I did enjoy my Hiroshima detour. Next time.

I left Matsue for a long day on the train - limited express to Okayama, Sakura shinkansen to Shin- Osaka and on to Tokyo.
The trip from Matsue was very interesting in daylight - through the mountains and rural farmland and running alongside rivers most of the way. The rivers ran west at the start of the trip and later were running south and of course many sakura lining the river banks.

At Kyoto I decided to break the journey and took a quick side trip to Kinkau-ji. I have not been there since 2002 when I did not have a digital camera. By the time I got there about 4.oo pm, the sun was quite low so it wasn't the best light but I got a few shots in, and then a very crowded bus trip back to the station and then to Tokyo. I stayed at SHinagawa Prince Hotel as I had another train to catch in the morning. Not particularly impressed with the value for money - about twice what I paid elsewhere for much the same facilities, except that internet was 1500 yen till midnight and no breakfast.

eigasuki - I stayed down the block at the Toyoko Inn when I was transiting - including my recent trip. The room is tiny as usual with TI's but there is free LAN and also breakfast buffet but I must say I was surprised that it was very limited this time - compared to other TI's I stayed on this trip....but its cost is about 7000 JPY....

I'm sure Kinkakuji looked nice in the setting sun....

eigasuki, is that it, are you on the way home or already home? I hope not, I have been loking forward to your reports.m Well, if you are home or on the way, I hope you plan another trip soon as I loved your reports.

I have considered taking the shinkansen from Kyoto to Shinagawa an dstaying at Shinagawa Prince hotel or other hotels close to it, as a way of being close to station to get the Narita Express when departing next day from Narita. Thanks for the info on your stay at that hotel.

Mara I have stayed st that TI before, It was my first choice but it was fully booked that night - a Saturday. Emd, I was in the cheapo(?) East wing at the Prince - you can pay more for a better room in the newer part of the hotel. It is certainly convenient.

I am halfway through the trip so it's not over yet, but the sakura might be. I left Shinagawa in the morning and changed trains in Tokyo eki. I was headed for Shirakawa-shi in Fukushima province. Not to be confused with Shirakawa-go, it's hardly on most tourists' bucket list.

A friend who is teaching English on the JET programme is living there now and I couldn't go past en route to Hokkaido without stopping over. It is right at the south end of Fukushima ken so I thought i could risk one night.

First on our tour was the castle which can be seen from her apartment . It's closed now as the walls were badly damaged in the earthquake. There's also a small history museum. Later we went to a shrine and lovely park and tea garden. The park is famous as the first public park in Japan.

Later we drove up into the mountains to a lovely onsen and rotemburo alongside one of the rivers and dinner at an izakaya. A lovely way to break the journey north. She has been through a lot in the last year - was relocated from her former posting which is now in the exclusion zone.

Next day onto the train north to Hokkaido. Pity the Hyabusa is not on the JR pass. I considered paying to do a segment but it didnt work out timewise. I had an hour to wait at Shin Aomori which was lunchtime and time to view all the apple based souvenirs and on to Hakodate which is where I am now.

After Hachinohe, we emerged from a tunnel to see snow and after the nxt tunnel, the world was white! I was fascinated to ride along the coast ans see snow on the edge of the ocean.

I was surprised how nervous I was going through the Seikan tunnel. I think it was the signs on the seat backs or the way staff kept walking up and down the train. Fourteen months ago I probably wouldn't have given it a second thought.

I had time to check in - Comfort hOtel right near the staion and do a bit of browsing before heading up to Hakodate yama. I took the bus to the top and once again felt very nervous on the ride. The view made it all worthwhile and I spent some time in the cafe while it got darker, lingering over a coffee where it was warm and peaceful, Still quite a bit of old snow on the yama.

I had one of those days that some of us have while travelling - my laptop battery gave out on the train, my phone was low so I couldn't waste it on the ipod, the camera battery gave out on Mt Hakodate and then I discovered I was low on cash and the ATMs at the konbeni didn't like my cards.

Next stop Sapporo.

Wow, still enjoying your trip!
Hokkaido is on my to-do list for sure.
According to j-g.com sakura time up that way is not til the beginning of May....

yay, more to come, I am psyched.

We are so enjoying your report.....wow I wish we were there right now!

Linda loved the Nijo market in Sapporo if you want to fresh eat fish or anything from the sea for breakfast/lunch. Amazing assortment of different fresh sea foods of all kinds, better assortment than Tsukiji in Tokyo and much more accessible imho. Thanks again!

Aloha!

Yes the sakura are a long way off in Hokkaido. I wasn't expecting sakura though I am a bit surprised by how far away spring seems to be.

Thanks for the tip on Nijo market, HT. I haven't been to Tsukiji, and now I've been to Hakodate, Sapporo and Otaru I don't feel I need to. I did the morning before I left Hakodate and felt that was very extensive although a lot of the same. I'm not sure who buys all those crabs and fish - a couple of tour bus groups and I seemed to be the only customers.

I arrived in a freezing cold and rainy Sapporo mid afternoon and spent much of the time browsing and getting thoroughly lost and confused in the endless subterranean labyrinth of shopping arcades - there must be enough clothing in those shops to clothe every girl in Asia.

First item on the agenda was the Sapporo Beer Museum. I expected it to be a cheesy tourist rip off and thought it was very well done and set up - lots of English information and very helpful staff. There's no charge except for the sampling bar at the end where a small beer was 200 yen and 500 for a set of three styles.

I returned to the city and then to Nijo market where I had a Hokkaido seafood domburi and then wandered the covered shopping douri where I found a secondhand kimono shop and managed to settle on just one obi.

I basically just shopped the depaato and found a Tokyu Hands so I have finally had a chance to just check out he shops at a leisurely pace for a change.

Today was Otaru which At first I was totally underwhelmed by. As the sun came out and I came upon the historic district with all the glassware shops and somewhat interesting buildings, I had a somewhat better impression. Hokkaido has been interesting. I can't say I'm desperate to come back but would suggest that it would be much more agreeable in summer or in winter for the ice festival etc. I certainly seem to be one of very few westerners so that's gotta tell me something. Still, tick it off the list.

Sakura is about 2 weeks away from Hokkaido so not that long.....

I haven't been to Tsukiji, and now I've been to Hakodate, Sapporo and Otaru I don't feel I need to.
I know what you mean,lol. Who eats so much seafood? I mean everything from the sea.....eggs, weeds, kelp, urchins, snails, moss off the rocks....it's incredible. I looked for desalinated water but couldn't find any probably only because I don't read Japanese,lol.

Still, tick it off the list.
WAIT!!!!!!
not till you've seen the summer blooms in Biei or the fall colors of Shiretoko or the volcano rich farmlands of Akanko or the spectacular vistas of Daisetsuzan..... I will guarantee this one!

Something about cold and rain that doesn't agree with me too When we arrived at Otaru it was a very cold spring morning and the sun was just coming over the mountain. I remember starting the walk down the hill to the waterfront area when I saw a youngster coming out of a doughnut shop on the left with what I assumed was a cup of hot chocolate. We ran inside to warm up on hot choco and donuts before we continued down towards the waterfront,lol

As you can tell your report is bringing back so many memories and am enjoying every minute, thanks.

Aloha!

Otaru in fine weather last year was excellent! We stayed all day exploring and found the best sushi restaurant in Japan we reckon, upstairs in what looked like a converted gas station and crammed with locals and schoolkids only and so good and cheap. The waterfront and warehouse area was fascinating too.
I guess the weather makes all the difference.

I am discovering all kinds of new places due to this thread. Thank you for that!

Ha! Just for you I "discovered" Takaoka. Actually I wasn't enough paying attention and stepped off the Thunderbird thinking it was Toyama. So, twenty minutes exploring the delights of Takaoka eki before getting the next express to Toyama.

Today was a travel day. Due to a combination of fare prices and train times etc, logistics made it cheaper and easier for me to fly from New Chitose airport to Kansai and then to ShinOsaka to get the Thunderbird to Toyama by 5 pm (in theory, if you dont stop off in Takaoka)

Back to sakura very close to full boom most of the way after Biwa ko. Tomorrow, the Tateyama High Alpine Route and last day of my JR pass. There have been a couple of days when I haven't used it much but other days I've really given it a workout.

Don't worry Thommo and Ht - I've ticked Hokkaido off the list but I haven't crossed it off the list. Maybe one summer - or autumn, though that will have to wait till I retire. Can't really get Novembers off work at all.

Love making little discoveries like you did in Takaoka,lol. We have done that on more than one occasion......always interesting....sometimes nerve-wracking ha ha

Was the flight from Chitose-Toyama more expensive? We took that direct ANA flight utilizing the Star Alliance Airpass a couple of years ago but those have segment restrictions I know. Just curious if you don't mind....about how much was the one-way domestic air fare CTS-KIX? I am planning a return and was interested. We might forget anything south of Asahikawa and fly into and out of there on our next Hokkaido adventure.....nice place. Interested on your take of the TAP. Made it to Toyama a few years back and weather and laziness made us cancel the TAP and moved straight on the Nagano.

Aloha!

ohhhh and can you get October off? That's when the fall season starts on Hokkaido....mid to late Sept into early October.

Aloha!

For the slightly more intrepid....having done both, we feel Kyushu and Shikoku are somewhat more rewarding to travel in.
"Rewarding" being somewhat subjective of course....

I really enjoyed my trip on the Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route two years ago....
Your visit to Sapporo and Otaru sounded quite interesting, eigasuki - it's true the weather can really affect our perception when we visit. My trip to Hiroshima a few years ago was in the almost pouring rain and I can't say it was that enjoyable...and because of the weather I cut it short....
I lucked out in my last trip - only had really bad weather one day - when the typhoon like weather upset most of Japan...

You're so right about the difference good weather can make. Today was probably the best weather I've had - possibly had about two days with much sun and today the weather was stunning for the Tateyama High ALpine Route.

I had to have my luggage down to the lobby by 7 for the luggage forwarding service. Boy am I glad I decided to do that - it's only a small overnighter but would have been a real nuisance and on some of the legs there's a baggage surcharge. Add in coin lockers and the luggage forwarding is so worth it.

I had to wait for the Post Office to get money - Toyama Dentetsu eki doesn't take credit - so I had the chance to explore a bit of Toyama. I was pleasantly surprised, a lovely walk along the sakura lined river with petals frosting the ground and floating in the breeze. Families already settling in for bit of hanami viewing. There's a boat cruise along the river and in the castle park they were setting up for a garden show with potted plants, bonsai and rocks for sale.

It's Saturday so it was all a bit quiet bar the trams rattling by -one all painted out in sakura decor and Toyama seems neat and tidy and modern.

I caught a rapid train as far as Terada where I changed to the local. A very interesting ride through inaka. Interested by the numerous outcrops of monuments/family graves in the middle of the fields _ I guess that's why it's called Terada (temple fields)

The train then climbs and climbs. There weren't many on the train which surprised me at first - then I noticed the many tour buses heading up on the raod on the other side of the valley. Oh oh. Sure enough, at Tateyama throngs of tour groups all trying to keep with their group. Very crowded on the cable car going up - what did I expect on a Saturday just after it's opened for the year?

I very much enjoyed the bus trip and playing in the snow at Murodo. The views are breath-taking, especially for a girl for whom mountains and snow and cold are a novelty. Onto the trolley bus and the ropeway, another cable car, another trolley bus and then to Kurobe Dam. Just a fabulous day except for the jostling on the stairs and getting onto the transport.

To top it all off, the sakura appeared again as the train went from ShinanoOmachi to Matsumoto and in Matsumoto they are stunning. I walked up the casltle which is all lit up and happy crowds strolling around the moat and in the castle grounds. Just a lovely atmosphere and a group in the castle playing traditional tunes on a koto, shakuhachi and taiko. Perfect end to a great day.

HT I paid ichiman en for the flight. There were cheaper ones leaving at 5 am or late at night but the flight direct to Toyama was either already booked or much more. All kind of last minute because originally I was going to train both ways. This trip hasn't been as fully planned as my previous trips, a combination of trying to fit in with other people and some medical issues which might have lead to me having to cancel.

I'm now back from my trip. The weather was not kind for my last couple of days but I braved Mt Takao on the way back from Matsumoto. I really liked the atmosphere at the base of the cable car with its row of little shops and cafes and the cable car ride and walk to the temple at the top were achieved under less than ideal conditions. I can imagine how lovely it must be ona sunny day, espeially on a hot summer day or when the autumn foliage is at its best. However, I did not have to share my days with crowds.

On my last full day, we braved the rainy conditions to do the Shichifukujin temple walk at Meguro. We were the only people at all the temples we went to and thought ourselves very brave ringing doorbells to ask for our omikuji kokeshi and go-shuin stamps. we only got lost once but this led us to a lovely walk along the Meguro river - another place that would be even better on a fine day.

The rest of the day was spent on domestic chores and just hanging out with my friends, relaxing 'en famille'. Japan finally turned on some great weather for my last day. We took the dog for a belated walk which gave me a chance to explore their neighbourhood, and a final shopping expedition before heading to the airport.

Both the plane trips home were very rough and we spent a lot of time with the seatbelt lights on but not bad enough to interrrupt the food service. nevertheless, I was glad to get home and even got through immigration and customs quickly for a change.

Now once the credit cards are paid off.......

Thanks for finishing your report, eigasuki!

I've never been to Mt. Takao or the Shichifukujin temple walk - thanks for mentioning them...

Time to start planning your next trip...

Yes, arigato gozaimasu eigasuki-san, much appreciated!
And yes I also agree.....paying off the credit cards are always the hardest part,lol.

Yes Takaosan is beautiful on a sunny fall day, I can attest to that. Funny that it is also out of Shinjuku on that omnipresent JR Chuo line....were you on the Asuza coming back from Matsumoto?

Aloha!

Thanks for the feedback and encoouragement and ideas for next time.

I did indeed travel Asuza from Matsumoto - love that trip and lts of blooming sakura to be seen from the windows - and koinobori. Change at Hachioji where I swung my Suica card into action and was relieved that it still worked. The Yokohama line goes through Hachioji so connections were very smooth for me.

The credit card wont be too bad, really the only thing on it is accommodation and since this time I went really budget Toyoko Inn, complete with member discount and a free night, should be easily despatched. $AUD112 for three nights? Can't complain about that.

Yes, I took that train as well back in 2010 - I thought I saw Fujisan in the distance - did you?

I've been using my Suica card for years - I think as long as you use it every couple of years it lasts forever....

I got a free Toyoko Inn room this year as well - how fun is that!

Speaking of credit cards, I noticed this year that charges got on my account almost immediately - I check almost every day - this was new to me as previously I remember some charges did not come through for a month or more....same cc - Capital One....

Mara I did see Fuji-san from the Asuza on a previous occasion but visibility this day was very poor.

I had to reload my Suica card sometime over the next day or so - my faith that I will return to use the 900 yen or so still remaining - and the cash I have left. I did manage to cash in the travellers cheque I have been carrying around for three trips and somehow never got around to cashing in.

When's your next trip Mara? I am researching Hawaii for September/October.

Hey I may know a thing or two about that Hawaii place!

Do let us know if/when you are coming to paradise and hopefully we can gtg in a Hawaii izakaya or two..... The Fodors Hawaii GTG is usually held in mid Sept. Linda and I had planned to be at a niece's wedding in Los Angeles mid Sept this year but that just fell apart recently(I guess lucky for her to find out now than later)

If planning Hawaii in Sept/Oct you might be interested in this:

http://www.alohafestivals.com/

Aloha!