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Vietnam has entirely too much to do. The usual quandary.

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Vietnam has entirely too much to do. The usual quandary.

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Old Aug 9th, 2015, 03:53 AM
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Vietnam has entirely too much to do. The usual quandary.

And how/where did you spend your time?

We're patching together a rough itinerary for 19 days in Northern Vietnam in April. Myself, wife and our (soon to be) 8 year old daughter.

We're tentatively thinking three nights in Hanoi before a five day trip to Ha Giang. Then two more nights (maybe 3) in Hanoi, with one of those days being a long day out to Halong Bay and a foodie type side trip in the Red River Delta. Both outings probably will be with Ethnic Travel, though not looking to them for managing the whole trip. They seem to "get" how we like to do things even if we don't normally like having anyone do things for us.

Where we're up in the air is that we are expecting to take the train (etc) down to Hoi An where we'll unwind and eventually from whence we'll depart. We'd like to take in a couple stops on the way, probably nothing earthshatteringly unique. But it's a first and perhaps only trip to the area, so we'd like to take in a few things. Hue in particular seems to have a lot to offer but Ninh Binh area as well has a couple of those "feel you can't skip" things. The primate rescue center in Cuc Phuong seems very interesting and Tam Coc just looks... gorgeous, even if sort of touristy(?) . (I'm really up in the air about Tam Coc)

If it helps - I think we've got a fairly low tolerance for museums and monuments.(a few, of course). All of us are more food and atmosphere and a temple here and there types. Wanderers of interesting looking side streets. Sometimes chatterers with friendly strangers (We had a sit on the wall along the quay in Phnom Penh because we started feeling uncomfortably colonial sitting up above it all at the FCC bar... and ended up with a dozen plus people around us all in one big conversation. Much more fun.) So anyway, not as much proper sightseers as misplaced slackers.

So finally, to the point. Knowing we could always use time, I'm wondering what is a typical length of visit for Fodorite visitors to Hanoi. (and if you'd have any good advice for families with kids or if you saw anything else in the above that indicates basic wrongheadedness)

Thanks,
Cliff
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Old Aug 9th, 2015, 06:43 AM
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5 days in hanoi is very nice... i am returning for the 3rd time this november... it's the vibe there that i like..
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Old Aug 9th, 2015, 08:41 AM
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Think about whether you really want to spend most of a day on the road (and a very boring one) out and back from Halong Bay. If you really want to see Halong Bay, I recommend spending an overnight on a boat. Otherwise the 7 or 8 hours on the road seems like a lot of wasted time to me.

Hanoi has a lot to see and do. We spent a week there with a day trip out of town to the Perfume Pagoda. And of course, the food in Hanoi is just great - so many things to sample! I'd recommend (as Bobo does) 5 full days in Hanoi not counting your day(s) on the road to/from Halong Bay.

Even if you have a low tolerance for museums, the one I would recommend is the Ethnographic Museum. It's really a treat.

Have a fine time.
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Old Aug 9th, 2015, 10:52 AM
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We did a home stay in Mai Chau, which was very interesting (aside from getting food poisoning there, but that's another story). We loved the drive through the country side and the glimpse of rural Vietnamese live. I know there's a lodge there, but if you can stay with a family, it'll be a totally different experience.

If you go through Danang, which you probably will, I thought the Cham museum was interesting, basically because I didn't know anything about the Cham people. We're not much into museums, either.

We drove from Hue to Hoi An and the drive would have been pretty, if not for the rain. I would recommend that too (if you're going to Hue at all).

Hoi An has a lot of very good restaurants, as well as cooking classes, which should please the foodie in you.
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Old Aug 9th, 2015, 10:55 AM
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I can't imagine that a day-trip from Hanoi to Halong Bay would be a pleasant experience. It really is a long and 90% boring drive. I went on a group van for an overnight cruise, but there is more to see there and do (like kayaking) that would make it worth more than one night.

I visited karst country south of Hanoi as a day trip. It must have have been Tam Coc. The hightlight was the scenic canoe cruise. If I told my story from that interesting day it would be mostly about people behaving badly. It was in 2006 and YMMV today.
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Old Aug 9th, 2015, 01:22 PM
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I agree with the comments re Halong Bay. If you decide to go, then do at least one night on a junk. We enjoyed doing that, though others thought it not so great.

Hoi An is a nice place to kick back. We enjoyed walking thru the side streets as well as the usual areas. Great food there. As mentioned the drive to Hue is lovely and Hue is interesting and worth a couple days.

Mai Chau and the surrounding countryside is great to visit. not being a home stay kind of gal, we stayed at the lodge which was very nice, if you like home stays and could arrange one with a similar aged child as yours, that would be fun for the kids. Kids and play are universal.
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Old Aug 9th, 2015, 01:36 PM
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CounterClifton, your post is right on time, as I put the finishing touches to a too-brief 17 day trip to N.Vietnam only. LOL, I totally "get" the displaced slackers m.o. and what you enjoy. I'm stilling the "quandary" stage for some of it, after nearly two months! So any comments below, are based on others' (Fodors Folks, my travel agent,etc) reccos.

One attractor you didn't mention --but I assume you are "into" as you are making the long trip up to Ha Giang--is stunning scenery. Correct? Still, like you, a huge part of the trip to Ha Giang is the chance to see it before there are loads of fellow tourists, and the associated pressure to buy buy buy as reportedly happens at Sa Pa.

re: Tam Coc, there are less crowded alternatives --my (totally fantastic) travel planner/agent, from a village near Ninh Binh, recommended rowing at Thung Nang as a quieter alternative in the area. Check out Limestone View Guesthouse, and Nguyen Shacks, for accommodation in the area.

Re: Halong Bay, the t.a. also recommended one of the trips to Bai Tu Long Bay as a less s crowded (with other boats) alternative , such as one of the Indochina Junk boats (Dragon Pearl, Dragon Legend etc) and also--like the Fodorite experts-- said no way should one do a day trip only.

Re: Ha Giang, that is also part of the itinerary, and I will gladly share info after returning. On the way back to Hanoi, there will be a two night stop at Ba Be Lake (which i first heard about here from Crellston). Check it out--i hadn't heard of it, but it looks beautiful. IF unusual scenery is part of your interest--tehre are caves there, including newly discovered/opened one called Hua Ma.

In Ha Giang area, there are ( based on travel agent reccos, and what I read) fantastic ethnic markets, so try to time your itinerary for one. My itin is timed for the big local Sunday market in Meo Vac--less crowded with other tourists (like me ) than Bac Ha ( closer to Sapa and Lao Cai, but another way to start your Ha Giang route) but there are many others. Some are based on lunar calendar days, and animal days, thus complicated mysteries to the Western mind!

Kathie, thank you for the recommendation of Ethnographic Museum. Like the OP, my tolerance for museums is low (funny, it seems to decrease with my age!) and I wondered which of several to choose. This will be the one, and seems the perfect choice before a trip up to the northern mountains. If you recall, about how much time did you spend there?

MrWunrful--YMMV???
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Old Aug 9th, 2015, 01:41 PM
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Yestravel, do you recall how long you stayed at Mai Chau Lodge?? I have thought of adding it as a "loop" with Hanoi--Mai Chau--Ninh Bin---Hanoi. I have four days at end of trip to "play" with time wise, and don't want to book until I see HOW much i enjoy Hanoi.

Question re Hanoi--for those who've been recently--air quality? I figure if i survived and still love Delhi with its horrendous air, I can likewise survive and love Hanoi for a limited period.
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Old Aug 9th, 2015, 02:10 PM
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CaliNurse, we spent several hours there, in part because we spent time talking with the tribespeople who were in the dwellings built in back of the museum. There are a number of traditional dwellings built behind the museum and there are people inside who can explain their traditions, etc. We found this fascinating. Inside, there are not only "artifacts" of various sorts but also videos of rituals and such.

There is a branch of Craftlink at the museum - great buys on lovely crafts and it's all fair trade.
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Old Aug 9th, 2015, 02:49 PM
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We have spent a lot of time in Vietnam this year. Two visits totalling over 3 months and we are returning again in October on our way back from Australia and New Zealand. Without a doubt my favourite country in Asia! In Oct we will return to Hanoi primarily to head off to Ha Giang ( almost certainly using Ethnic Travel) as you say they seemed to understand what we wanted out of the trip we used them for earlier in the year and were flexible enough to adapt that trips as we went along.

Hanoi needs 5 days to really get to know the place. Whether this is in two tranches or one go, I don't think matters much. With an 8 year old I would be ultra careful about the traffic. Crossing the road is a little disconcerting the first time but you soon get used to it. The Old Quarter at the top of Hoan Kiem Lake is probably the best place to stay unless you are into 5* hotels and even then, the recently opened Apricot Hotel, which overlooks the lake, looked fantastic!

We spent 5-6 days trekking around Pu Luong, Cu Phong, Mai Chau before moving on to Ninh Binh. Staying in homestays was a highlight of our time in Vietnam and I dare say that is the type of accommodation you will experience in Ha Giang. Basic they definitely were but Incredible hospitality and it is definitely the best way of getting some real interaction with the people who are genuinely welcoming ( the food was excellent too!) - apart from Mai Chau, which was very busy, we saw no other travellers for four day until we reached Ninh Binh.

Here is a link to our blog entry for that part of the trip http://accidentalnomads.com/2014/12/...-and-mai-chau/ .

We were going to visit the primate research centre you mention but after some research we decided not to bother as it seems they did not have a great reputation - went for a walk in the forest instead!

With the benefit of hindsight it would have been possible to get the train from Ninh Binh down to Hue rather than returning to Hanoi which may suit your timeframe better if you did want to include Ninh Binh. Tam Coc was indeed overrun with tourists but Ethnic were great at taking us to lesser visited, quieter places ( sadly, I can't recall the names.The waterways and limestone karsts there are spectacular. The city itself is nothing special, but you can't have everything I guess! As Calinure mentions, there is a place called Ngyuyen Shack which looks very nice, but books up,way in advance.

Hue is an interesting city and worth a few days, no museums as such, but the Imperial Tombs are beautiful and some can be visited by bike if feeling in need of exercise!

Like others, I feel HL bay is not worth the long day trip and an overnight would take a too big a chunk out of your time in the north IMO. You could conceivably add Ba Be lakes onto you Ha Giang trip and then loop down to HL or Bai Tu Long Bay but this would take around 10 days which doesn't leave much time. So many places!!

You could also conceivably visit Phong Na caves, the largest in the world, but I am not entirely sure practical that would be by train. We were in Hue last week and they were offering day trips from there, but it was along day.

For Hoi An you will need to get the train to either Hue or Da Nang ( I assume you will fly home from Da Nang? If so, it is worth going one way by train and the other by car, taking in the Marble mountains/ China Beach en route.

Getting the sleeper train down to Hue/ Da Nang, it is worth getting the "soft sleeper" maybe even booking out all of the four bunks so you have some privacy. Try to avoid the high numbered cabins ( I think 24 -28) we ended up in those twice and found that the smokers congregate at the end of the carriages and their smoke is drawn into the air con intakes for those cabins which means you get a blast the dleaightful smell of cigarettes every so often.

Calinurse - re air quality in Hanoi. These things tend to affect me but didn't find Hanoi to bad. Not as bad as Bangkok or KL an a hundred times better than most of northern Thailand when we were there in March.
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Old Aug 9th, 2015, 08:29 PM
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You have 19 days in Northern Vietnam so you can spend 4 days in Hanoi (visit HCM Mausoleum, Museum of Ethnology and Old Quarter for the first day, visit Bat Trang pottery village and enjoy puppet show for the second day, pay a visit to Hoa Lo Prison and Temple of Literature for the third day, enjoy evening at a coffee shop if you want. The last day you could visit Tran Quoc Pagoda, Vietnamese Women' Museum and Royal City Mega Mall)

On the fifth an sixth days, you should head to Ha Giang. The seventh and eighth days, move to Ninh Binh to visit Tam Coc-Bich Dong or Trang An.

Then you can spend 2 next days in Ha Long Bay.

For the rest of time, you may visit Hoi An and Danang for leisure holiday. Almost travelers have good impression on these destinations in terms of landscape, outdoor activities, food and price. Hope my advice is helpful to you to some extent.
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Old Aug 10th, 2015, 05:24 AM
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Many thanks for the advice.

Biggest commentary seems to be that a day trip to Halong could be too much to fit in (or too little time there) with 7 hours getting there and back. That seems like a reasonable objection. We've even considered dropping it all together but it's so unique and so gorgeous in photos. We originally intended to stay over, as you do. But as time started to prove tight, we thought "what do we want from an overnight in Halong other than not doing both directions in one day?" And we didn't have a compelling answer except that. We may have to do some more thinking about that bit.

Glad to here we're not far off on our days in Hanoi. I can't wait for the food. Big Vietnamese community where we live but almost all from the south, so looking forward to seeing how things differ. (I loooove VN food). Of course then, with that and if we do need to add a night in Halong, something will have to give. It may have to be some things in the Ninh Binh area. Not sure yet. But am going to file the comments on the area above and weigh against missing Halong... tough one.

For those who recommend Mai Chau, I will have to read up on that area. (more places to try to figure out how to fit in!) Hadn't been on my radar before. But we're really both excited about the Ha Giang outing so if an either/or, not sure we'll make it to Mai Chau. Just the time thing.

Calinurse... you're on to us. Ha Giang's first appeal was the beauty of the karst and valleys (of which VN seems to have in abundance) and waterfalls. But then also the prospect of being remote and free to look around without any pre-built route we're meant to be on as tourists.. Just a number of things, really that we find appealing about getting far away for a little bit.

Kathie - thanks for narrowing that down to the one "must" museum. I've read more about the Ethnographic Museum and it does sound really well done.

crellston - not really a 5* family. Just need a room big enough for the 3 of us. I like the looks of the Old Quarter. Figured we'd stay there. With a split visit like this, would you choose to come back and stay in the same area or pick another? (we split Budapest once with a long road trip through Romania in between and we decided to try two different areas of the city since we were starting over anyway). We were thinking the train from Ninh Binh on the Hue too. Seems feasible anyway. Thanks for the link too. I've been reading your blog the other day, didn't get that part yet.

Kim..UK, hey... thanks for the recos and the reminded about the puppets. I forgot about those and my daughter I'm sure would love them!

internetwiz - I'm hoping to take one of the cooking classes in Hoi An. We've got 4 days there so plenty of time. Unfortunately won't quite catch the Full Moon Lantern festival. Seems like an easy place to be and I'm looking forward to it.


Many thanks again!


(YMMV = Your Mileage May Vary)
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Old Aug 10th, 2015, 12:48 PM
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We often stay in different areas in a city. However in Hanoi, other than the old quarter, not sure where that would be. We did think the West Lake District was quite nice, but not sure what there would be to do out that way.

For HB if you go on a junk, there are activities such as swimming, kayaking, seeing a village and the likes. The junks go to various areas where you see the lovely karst formations. We went in Feb and while the weather wasn't great, I still enjoyed it and I'm not a boat person.

Cali, we did a driving loop from Hanoi to Sapa and then trained it back to Hanoi. Our first afternoon and night was in Mau Chau. I know you can take some treks in the area, but we didn't. You can also bicycle all about, but we just walked around.
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Old Aug 10th, 2015, 12:56 PM
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The daytrip we took from Hanoi to the Perfume Pagoda was one of the most memorable experiences of our stay. Look it up if/when you get a chance. The destination itself is no big deal, but the journey to get there is incredible.

And like others, I agree that it's hard to imagine enjoying HaLong Bay as a daytrip from Hanoi. Spend the night on a junk, if you go.
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Old Aug 10th, 2015, 04:00 PM
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CC - there are so many hotels in the old quarter you will be spoilt for choice. We were spending around $25 -35 a night and getting a nice spacious room with breakfast. The last one we stayed at was The Hanoi Legacy in Hoan Kepiem - spacious rooms, great breakfast and wonderful staff. The one problem was the sound of rats scratching in the ceilings at certaint times of day ( it is a problem with many of the older hotels in the Old Quarrter apparently!)
. When we return in October we are staying at Golden Land Hotel on Hang Manhattan St , close to the lake which is nice as the lake is best visited in the early morning and at night.

As you are staying twice in HanpiI think it makes more sense to stay in one place so you can leave some baggage there whilst away in Ha Giang - you won't need too much stuff there.

West Lake is a long way from most of the sights, the French quarter around the Metropole is nice but the hotels are pricier and IMO doesn't have the same character as the old quate
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Old Aug 10th, 2015, 05:44 PM
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<i>it makes more sense to stay in one place so you can leave some baggage there whilst away in Ha Giang</i>

crellston, that's a very good point. And if as yestravel said, no other area of town is a big draw, then it makes even more sense to stick with one hotel in the Old Quarter.

We're in the process of looking at hotels now, so timely advice. I'll look at the ones you've tried or researched above. I've been so busy that my wife has been doing most of the research on this trip (so unlike me, I'm usually all about trip reading). Not sure which she's looked at yet. With the 3 of us, one she had her eye on with adjoining connected rooms, at $75 for both, sounded promising. But I missed the name.

Mr_go, thanks for the extra nudge to the Perfume Pagoda. A place I know I read about long ago, when I used to read about everywhere. But I'd somehow forgotten about it. Not sure how, now that I'm reading the suggestions. We're just at that point where we haven't ironed out what exactly we're going to do in each area (Now THAT is totally like us, not knowing what we're going to do pretty much until we get there.)
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Old Aug 11th, 2015, 05:26 AM
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Hey, quick question about Perfume Pagoda.

How many steps are there on those stairs anyway?

We went up Dambulla last year and my noisy knees didn't love it, but it was doable. (no cable car there). Anyone done both as far as a comparison?
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Old Aug 11th, 2015, 10:29 AM
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Internet research shows Perfume Pagoda with 1,000 steps. Coincidentally, the cave I wanted to visit in Mai Chau has 1,0000 steps to its entrance. Hmmm...

KimFiona, only two days ("fifth and sixth")for Ha Giang? Are you possibly thinking of a different area?

Yestravel, my preferred mode of travel is feet rather than bicycle after bad accident yrs ago. Alarmed that nearly every description of trips anywhere mentioned bicycles, I posted a thread a few months ago, and was happy to see that riding one is not a requirement! One ore thing--do you recall if the lodge you stayed at was Mai Chau Lodge, or Mai Chau Eco-Lodge? The name similarities are sure confusing!

Crellston--Hang Manhattan Street? Autocorrect strikes again? Anyway, that's a great way to remember the street name!

YMMV--love it! thanks for the explanation, CC, and the intro to it, Wunrful. Love those initialed expressions, (Digression --my fav is probably DBAA, used by Jane to Jesse in one of the greatest TV series ever "Breaking Bad.")

CounterClifton, part of the Elegance Hotel group which many Fodorites recommend, are the three Essence Hotels in the Old Quarter (I'm staying in one). They have a room category called "Family Interconnecting" with price varying by total number of people. However, the total price is more than the $75 your wife found.
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Old Aug 11th, 2015, 10:29 AM
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We took the cable car up and walked down. I don't recall it being too onerous, but the cable car is definitely cheap. Like, 3 or 4 bucks American IIRC. If I had a bum knee, that's what I'd do.
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Old Aug 11th, 2015, 10:45 AM
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CC, I've done both the Perfume Pagoda and the Dambulla cave temples. MANY more stairs at the Perfume Pagoda.

The Perfume Pagoda was a good side trip from Hanoi, but to be honest, the Dambulla Cave Temples were much more impressive than the Perfume Pagoda. There was no cable car when I was there. I remember reading about the cable car when it was built and thought that would make the trip to the Perfume Pagoda much easier.
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